1946-11-02 — Page 3

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 1946.

•THE WORLD OF WOMEN-

This outfit embodies features dis- cussed in this article. Contume is in pearl-grep barathea, high-collared. An off-the-face and atp-waisted.

taque in pearl-grey felt in draten to one side with double bow of black- and-yellow striped prosprain,

As

The Figure

UTILI

dielates of Puris and New York make you forget your resolution.

TILITY frock... Utility suit... Utility! Now that fashion is again a legi- coat. No evening dress No timate feminine topic, do not let the trimmings. Take a last look before saying good-bye to war-time mend Remember that wille the mmor‍ty and make-do. From 1942, you wore the or women locked elegance in wor- clothes sketched on the right, functional time, that majority looked a guid clothes with a job to do and no time for a deal more trim and tidy than they few more buttons and pleats and seams.

Fashion was pared down to basic simplicities: you wore the kind of frock that did not cling, the frock that need not fit too well-the useful shirtwaister type; four buttons, no zip, a little fullness from the waist or a pleat and the three-quarter sleeve as à fashionable concession.

'Your costume was starkly simple, your shoulders broadened to bear the burden of bags, parcels and gas-mask holders.

hid ever been in their lives. Why? Paradoxically, limitations forced

sense of fashion, abolished the frills and furbelows that cluttered up basie perfections of line,

You have

Here again to-day (and for good?) is the elegant female.

cord of The Look? The Body?

Well, on your left is The Figure, émbodying all to-day's fashion fea- tures.

She stands cnce more as the tar- Ket for feminine admiration, mascu-

Your coat was made in a style adjustable to figures line stupefaction. Her edges are other than you own, straight and casual nes gathered rounded off, she curves from stems to in at the waist by a belt tied in a knot and hanging|stern. Her shoulders Toomply.

.

You wore turbans on your head, and fashion writers told you weekly over a period of five years how to wear them, You wore slogan scarves, string bags, hand-knit mitts and massive low-3 heeled shoes.

And no evening dress.

You soon learned to distinguish aße make of garment from another at the same utility price level; names of top-light ruuturiers pequired household meaning us they came off the rail to the woman in the street.

You also learned-the hard way-lo distinguish the subtleiles of Fut that made one garment a non-utility model. You learned the value of buying best possible materials, the strength and beauty of colour in

estricted world.

Д

are gently indented und

rounded, her waist tiny; and-she has hips.

Mind you, with all these hips ap- pearing, I doubt if women. wll al- together forgo shoulder-padding. Any resemblance between a living woman and a pear would not be mere- ly coincidental: it would be entas- trophic.

·

Her skirt is at least two inches longer than the one she wore from 1942 onwards--a good trend this, in view of the backs of finees we saw in wartime. Her jacket is long and You learned the value of accessory and the unim-gure-hugging to the waist, then

You vowed during portance of superfluous trimming.

curves outwards ngain, possibly over the lean years to carry that hard-won knowledge of

hip-padding. fashion with you into the world of plenty. Well, do.

Good As

Goldwyn!

“N. LONDON, earlier this! I month, Patricia Lennard

saw the first showing of a new i designer, and reports: "I ani glad to announce that British fashion is creative again."

Öve whelming impression of the designs of 27-year-old Scottish Clive

Yet Duncan was their originality. his frocks, suits and whis are easy to wear.

This collection made a most in- teresting comparision with the- American clothes of the Goldwyn Girls, which I saw the day before.

Natural shoulderline? A shawi collar curves round the shoulders of a blue and yellow hand-woven wool top-coat.

Sleeve interest? Three-quarter

wool sleeves slide over detachable full wrist-length sleeves of blue chiffon on a blue wool frock whose high white stock collar cups the

chin

In

A day frock worn with a brick

Exaggerated kipline? It's wearable belt was woven of duck's down and

the navy and white wool suit, wool, whose jacket ends in an all-round White tweed lace, the colour and softly pouched busile (Virginia hus texture of a fine Shetland showl, sketched it).

was used for a flaring calf-length Skirts of suits, were slim from the dinner-gown whose low 4-Inch front: a skirt whose back is finely deep bodice

underlined with pleated is worn with Jacket threaded black ribbon. plente in front.. New colours- Natural wood leaves followed a "Sown Soll" is descriptive-and | diagonal shoulder-to-waist line on new fabrics are used.

a high-collared wool frock.

A-Plus-Rating

In Style News!

You must see our Marvellous New Collection of

Gage Autumn Millinery

Just arrived by the last American mail together with Kleinort's famous two-way stretch elastic girdles, gartor-bolts, brassiores, handbags, all sold at "ONE PRICE" within your budget.

Also gathered for you a comprehensive now collection of "finast" wool and rabbit fur materials for coats and dresses in all now Autumn colours.

Our Prices Lowest In Hongkong When Quality Is Compared.

Mode Elite

Tol. 24052.

Highlight of cocktail and evening wear was the panniered hipline, swaying like a farthingale on short lime-green frock.

1

And panniers came again, three feet across the back-this time on a dark-green velvet evening gown, vivid flowers tralling down the skirt from a huge bow on the right hip.

A crosses

Evening dresses were spectacular- {ly beautiful; white preponderant. Farland of tiny white flowers the throat of strapless

gown,

crosses nhoulders and reappears in over the hips in a heart-shaped out- i

draped white

line.

the front

effect,

And instead of a bustle we had the real thing-a pale blue satin off-the-shoulder gown, draped in front over a pleated underskirt which rose high, wide and hand- somely over a cage.

a

Delicate mauve luce used in an- other pannicred gown formed fichu over the bodice which was outlined in ruched purple velvet.

But those gorgeous Goldwyn Girls!

VIEWING the six long-stemmed lovelles (and their wardrobe) I was glad to find that they are life- size, average measurements-bus 35, waist 25, hips, 36.

cross-cut of Their wardrobe, American fashions, was seen through British eyes, youthful, glamorous rather than elegant, relying mainly on colour.

It was designed by top American designers, but was chosen and bought straight from departmental stores.

TERE in pointed pars is the tale

of their splendour.

HE

Most original hat-Block felt

line!

PATRICIA

LENNARD

analyses and interprets the latest fashion trends

And to carry this new curvacious length The heels are soaring higher and higher. heavy-looking wedge is being abandoned in favour of a delicately balanced 3in-plus heel.

To top the new line she wears her hat dead straight or at the back of the head, drawn to one side with what can only be described as a clump: o clump of ribbon, feathers, fruit, fur-anything to carry out the asymmetrical trend. These bared-brow hut styles are kindly Innovation, ensler to wear, in spite of their new look, than tilted pro- vocative shapes,

But make no mistake. The total effect of the present fashions is to make a woman look womanly, not housewifely. Her hands are free for a well-rolled umbrella, not for parcels. Her appearance is totally feminine, casily elegant.

BEAUTY ARTS

By LOIS LEEDS -

It's

The

Posed for Lois Leeds.

Rene Brown has a clever idea which she puts to use. She beads leather mocassins in gay solours and striking designs to match different sinck suits!

can wear a feather in your hair-

Copperized feathers for a hat! STAR SHINE I FAMOUS New York model A Glamourises her Star Shine with a charming dinner hat..

Fine Feathers Penny Singleton fashioned of copperized feathers has a feather cape of iridescent Blue and there's a muit to match

Green and she wears a feather spray hat crown is made of Brown velling on a velvet band as a "hat" You cloche sewn with gsaw shapes In/and gives a helmeted look to the may not get a feather cape but you hairthe newest look! Her dress? brown fell, to go with a brown-and- Simple, basic-her hat is her Haud and a new and pretty fashion it is binck draped frock.

100. We are nila le tired of rib- Most striking suli-Well, ward-

bons and flowers, so try feathers robe mistress Crain was proud of) Gadgeteria! Glamorous Hillary the white muted mink lapels on д black suit, but I much preferred the Brooke loves gadgets and one of her and paint them in gay colours!

newest is an evening compact, en- Combination! A Star Shine fashion black and

weave closing a tiny neon hand which lights is a plain skirt and a checked jacket. and white diagonal sult, double-breasted and buttoned up when she opens the compacti AA favourite combination is Chocolate with huge silver balls, which had little light on the subject of beauty Brown for the skirt and Brown and a matching reversible cupe lined with

White check for the jacket, topped muskrat stranded grey fur,

by a White felt hat with Brown Two-Timer Lipstick Barbara Stan glamour in veiling, Tuls is a stun

You wyck uses a dark shade in Up-stickning idea for a Fall outf first. then che sinoaths on a lighter could have a checked skirt, too!. shade over it. Very effective, try ill Next-Dear Lola Leeds”

Play Shoe Ideal Western starlet"

Most spectacular evening frock-At striped taffeta brassiere held by single strop left wide open spaces between the matching dirndl skirt

pangled with sequins.

arost memorable colour-A ma- kenta evening silk bolero to a black evening gown; a loose three-quarter-

-Good Idea!

• LEDGER SYNDICATE-

length rose-red weal coat with TAKING CARE OF BABY

a

huge lynx collar that could be worn às hood.

Most eye-opening price

prices These "custom-made clothes (which car respond

to our best made-to-mur

THE Mogna Carts of the married nouneed that it will compile a re- couple in how the Rector ofelster of approved "sillers-In" with dressmoking) were much chicaper Chatham. Britain's busy river port children, and pay them. The charge thon their British equivalents.

new to parents will be nominal. Pussbly on the Medway, describes

That lynx-trimmed coat, for exachemo of the local. Borough Coun-14uch a scheme will soon become a

ample, costs about 200dol-£50; here it would be at least half as much

:

cil..

-:

Lako

scheme of, "litera:in" 10 allow of...Then abili

regular feature of Britain's pocial life. It follows, of course, the usun Chatham of, development in Britain. quits-without fur trim- "For some time, not in Cuban First af vorenti Mduals age they would be 440 laver here thin-there has been voluntary in den They work for is organise

£40 upwards. Most powerful influence in Amerl-

This. young parents going out together an DESUITO can fashion--Ballet, say the girls.

in after all, is how democracy, sometimes the

works. evenings In Round-lbed ballet shoes, flat and Chatham the arrangement begat Administratorn, tre chosca! by the high-heeled are seen everywhere, full ballet skiria of all lengths fea with mehibers of the Good Compan- people to carry out their will and.

their

interests. When the lops Club, which consists of young look after ture on day and evening frocks.

people: representing all sections of people have shown what their will And instead of the sparin.. drab

the community in the town.. They is. Britah raincoats, theirs were made introduced the plan so

the administrators', set about that the carrying it out. Educatiòn} cara for the old and the destitute, welfare of merchant seamen and many other social services hays all developed Now the Borough Council has on- in Britain along these lines.

of water-repellent black rayon snilnarried members should not be des

or colourful gaberdings, gathered barred from Club activities. nt the waist; and all had-matching

hoods

Face

Confidence

ICK

Made In England

AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING STORES Wholesale Distributora:

The ARGOSY, Gloucester Arcade

CAREERS BUREAU For Girls With INITIATIVE

EMİNAMAZ Usikt De96130

TWO girls, both high-sense, are qualities needed in the commercial and Industrial world ranking ex-ATS officers, to-day, and at the Appointments went to an Appointments they know the markets on Office in London recently

moment there. Is a dearth for a job.

rix jobs going there is one girl employers

Doth of them hud held organising jobs In the Service but neither of them had had any train- ing before the war to equip them for a well-pald civilian Job.

The first, who

brains, had character and an outstanding per- sonality, has been taken on to do a big organising job in a retail store. She will train for a year, and end up with job würth £1,200 a year.

Middle Gap

both sides,

Avate secretaries. For every

availabic. und most prefer ex-Service women who keep good lime ond good tiscipline. The average salary for these jobs is around £0 10s. a week; some commercial and Industrial firms will pay a good deal mord for the right girl.

Also ready to take recruits are the retail stores, where u girl can train for six months, Salaries here, for the right type of girl, are around

£7 a week--but it does mean hard werk. For six months you may be daked to serve behind The second, who had charm and

the

to stocking counter,

trali tremendous fair (discovered

matching swatches of for around while she was in the ATS) turning

a

Cheerless material, even to stand behind the hopelessly

scenes. checking stock and packing. the most room into

comfortable

If you have the will to work and mness. for miles, has

has been engaged

the will to learn, there is interesting

by a brewery at a salary of £500

a year, plus her expenses and a work and big money in the retoff

store.

fore.

Welfare Work

work.

think

car, to go round all their pubs and tell them how to make them “cosy." two Two interesting jobs for gifted people. I cite these two

Then there In welfare Instances because they are repre-

Most ex-officers secr: sentative of an enormous number

or that, having once hind charge of a of girls who are classed 115

number of girls, welfare work is The Middle Gap"-the girls In

the obvious answer to their career. their late teens who were still at

problem. Not at all, Social, and school when war broke out, who went

industrial welfare la on altogether o into the Services, become officers. different plane from Service wel- did responsible jobs during the wat, feci that they should have good civilian joba, but have no qualifica- tions for the type of job for which their education and character, would What are they to do? Employers normally be considered to At them. da need this type of woman, for so many businesses are now bereft of the type of person who could be trained

an Executive position.

Qualities of initiative, ship, rellability, sound

up

into

Social welfare in poorly paid. It is worth while If you are in- terested in persone, not just people, if you have a deep desire to alleviate suffering, to right the lives of those less fortunate

than yourself.

help

set

The need for settlement workers of all kinds is urgent, but it needs training of ut/least a year at the London School of Economics to leader- galt a Social Science diploms.

Joanna Chase

common

Minale Makers

GABRIELLE

Fall fashion notes give de Shnoky Whlio for hats and Gold jewelry all over the scene. Chalás strung from shoulder to shoulder, boliler and bolder! Jewels no big'as buttons, real batpins again, vells up to your eyes! Bo-here's Fashion to your Next-Back Upl

LÆDER SYNDICATE

Finding A Blonde, For The BBC

THE BBC has great difficulty în filling its' coveted posts of women

announcers for the Television programmes which closed down in 1939 and haye just been restarted.

Winifred Shotter, a brunette and a well-known actress, had not long been appointed to join Jasmine Bligh, blonde and pre-war television nnnouncer, then Miss Bligh resigned, and the search began again.

Now Miss Gillian Webb, another blonde, in her early twenties, has got the job. She graduated from the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art: to the stage and films before going out East to work for Ensa.

Miss Webb has complete, poise and the self-possession which is essen= tin for television: nonqunečrs who have to face all kind of unoṛpected emergencies and talk their way, out of them. Sho even har, a romance. - lightning affale which begaf its. a lonely airfield 00 miles from Bagdad three months ago. The pinne in which the Ensa Company was to leave unexpectedly held up for three days, on the Inst of which Miss Webb found herself engaged to an American Air Corps officer. Ite gaye her a year to masco her name before getting married. She has done it in Uirea trionths.

was

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