1939-08-30 — Page 10

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FASHION EDITOR writes about the Paris Dress Shows:

A$

PARIS.

S the collections progress the de- fiantly military air with which they opened becomes less defiant and.. takes second or even third place.

Fashions of nineteenth-century in- spiration-very prim and not a little cumbersome at times-and also (just counteract, as it were, the discipline of militarism and the primness of Vic- torianism) a very casual, easy fitting modern line which accentuates blousey tops to dresses and coats, fullness at the waist gather- ed carelessly in with a belt, and skirts which hang loosely in gathers or unpressed plents. give plenty of contrast.

Not So Snappy

The new full skirts have none of the crisp snappiness of the swing skirts of last season- they may be slightly flared out to the hem, but more often the fullness hangs straight from the hips.

Where the folds and gathers are localised at the back of the frock, however, they are often caught in tightly with ribbon. bowa, smocking or pleats from the waist to 8 or 12 inches below it, which gives them a flare or kick-out towards the hem.

For evening the bustle has completely ousted, the crinoline. I have not noticed one crinoline up to now-but every collection has its bustles, or bustle effects given by big bows of stiff silk or tulle, flounces or duted as- ques.

Tunics Again

Chunel shows many hasqued bodices and tunics over full skirts of different material. One frock has a tunic top of bril- liant red and gold coarse lace made longer to the back, the centre point being more than a dozen inches below the waist; the skirt of stiff coarse tulle is rather fall and toe length.

huge talleta

Wednesday,

HONGKONG TELEGRAPH

August 30, 1939.

Bustle Replaces

Crinoline

Junic

drrealment

The

flounce

quam nie

but there are plenty of other styles from which to choose an evening gown

bustle

leffect

pleating

emphasizing

full skirt of an evening frock with top of pink silk and net.. This young designer has just set up in the Avenue Georges V. in magnificent salons decorated in white and cream with white wrought iron furniture and furnishings of scarlet and blue.

Nearly every collection in- cludes some draped frocks of silk jersey, supple lame Or

crepe.

In these, as indeed in the bustle and "naughty ninety" Trocks, Muggy RoutT excels.

Besides the fullness-to-the- back silhouette. Maggy Rouff introduces many one-sided ef- fects. She uses wide check Taffeta ribbon stitched a few inches either side of one of the side seams and tied across in three bows from the underarm down to the hip line to necen- tuale a bunch of gathers that falls from the lip.

Contrasting coloured cord threaded across gathers is one device for controlling them. Maggy Rout uses it to gather up sleeves and usually ties it in a bow and finishes it with a tassel. She also uses it to con- irol the gathers over a bustle. Bright green cord threads the bustic-gathers on a lovely black evening frock, the eard being made from the material of the evening coat. Evening Coats

This line for basques and tunics sloping downwards to the back from the waist, or a few inches below it, in front, is also seen a great deal on coats and dresses for daytime as well as evening-often it is merely evening frocks is where the waist at the back and finished a huge bow at the waist at the or they are cut away in front suggested by embroidery, bands bodice is continued into or over there in a big loop or bow, back, and the bodice are of velvet or fur or other device, the skirt, usually to a depth of Heim has a most attractive twelve to twenty inches in example of this; both the apron Another diagonal line seen in front, but is. caught up to the front, which is drawn up into

Time On Your Hands

Is it not odd that you have sa ollen

If you wince at the round of "time)

to go to the busy woman to get budgeting" and feel that it is too dull

things done? No matter how full

her days, it he promies to do cannes

a business for your type, turn it into

thing for you she will somehow 1. Kime of "making dates"--with

it in.

yourself! Only they are "iles"

which must be kept just as surely

Yet ask some women who appen as the appointment you make with a to have plenty of spare time even i simple little favour like hunting out friend.

a special recipe, gelting some cul-

tings from the garden, or parking

How to start your plan? Decide

old clothes for the darwoman, ist what you want to do mest out and what happens

of actual working hours. Instead of

wishing you had time for embroidery, † Swiftly comes the promise. "My or for learning French, make time by. dear, of course I will, the very first Ca 1 get." Fan Site pinning yourself down to a certain for days, perhaps weeles, until the hour to be kept for that particular spject crops up again, and the dila, autivity,

tory one holds forts the well-worn

to spare.

for a

start

excuse about not having a moment Suppose you fix Munday evening

couple of months to learning French, or embroidery, or Why is this? Why is it that the doing odd jobs. At the end of that busy housewife whose day is crum- med to capacity, or the business time you will probably have the woman with a serious job to hold fever so badly that Monday evenings down can, when necessary, full in will be a real pleasure to look for- further activities?

word to. But if it does so happen that you are not getting the salis | it not because these women their days and budget their faction you expected out of the even- time? It is apportioning time that ing. the programme can be revised. counts.

Hospitality Programme

Is

plan

If you are an average woman you will certainly find tremendous ad- Another two evenings may be al- vantages in having a time-budgeting lotted to hospitality, friends coming system. This applies, of course. In one evening, you going out to them chiefly to leisure hours. The day's another. Sunday can be a "home"! work will naturally be planned out, but there is a good deal of time out- duy when you have your prople to side working hours which somehow tes, or spend the evening with them gets triltered away just because of if you live at home, or write to them lack of plan.

if they live away.

For one thing you will cease to Saturday can be an open day when shelve small jobs und so finve more you do exactly what you feel like. peace of mind. You may often find doing on the spur of the moment. yourself saying, “Now to-morrow I'l do out that kitchen cupboard or take Another evening may be devoted to that book back to Mrs. Smith's." And some hobby, or outdoor sport, ir just then to-morrow comes and goes and plain walking for health. still the kitchen cupboard reproaches and Mrs. Smith's book you

roosts on the shelves.

An "Odd Job Hour"

still You see the idea? Make your own

time budget according to your own

- particular needs. Revise. it every

Dusly wine-toned"stripes, used, vertically in the blouse combine with solid wine trousers. Silk brald forms the frog closings.

AUXILIARY NURSING

Series of Lectures Fixed For Next Month

few weeks, and once having got it Under the auspices of the Auxillary!

These unusual evening frocks demand unusual coats to go with them. Frequently the coats are made three-quarter length with fitting bodice-top and basque longer to the back

of with tails at the back; or made black velvet and the very full full-length with very wide ground length skirt is in sleeves and deep yoke, from gaudy multicolour perpendicu, which the materials falls in lar-stripe satin.

folds to the ground.

Evening decoletages vary Vivid Stripes

considerably. They may There's a feeling for vivid square, round or occasionally coloured stripe materials-es- X-shaped in front, and at the pecially for the evening. Heim back very low, almost, and has a lovely dinner frock with sometimes absolutely, to the matching bolero for which he waist. Most frocks have shoul- uses black crepe finely striped der straps. Dinner frocks are with tin foil in multicolours. usually high to the throat, Raphael uses black and gold often finished there with a stiff striped stiff silk to make the collar or soft lace ruff.

Passport To Picnics

DON'T choose your site near a still pond, unless you enjoy the company of mu; quitoes and their relations. A sprinkling of eucalyptus all on wrists and enkles will help to ward off these and other Inquisitive inscets, md strong ammonia water, debbed on an incret lite, will prave very relieving. •

DON'T hard-buil your eggs for sandwiches. Much better lo seruable them until of a Birr and dry consistency and spread this over the butter. No fear of the eats dropping out 1 done this way. Try mixing tomatoes with the scrambled eggs, too. Beat in a small portion of mustard to your butter before than spreading ment sandwiches. Much easier, and nicer, dabbing the mustard on to the meat.

WRA

WRAP sandwiches in grease-proof paper that has been round butter or margarine. The film of butter will help to keep the sandwiches moist and fresh.

DON'T add milk to the ten, or coffee in thermos flask. Carry it separately, os milk is apt to curdle if enrried about and shaken when in a hot liquid. Strain the tea when filling the flask, so that tea leaves do not pass into the thermos, other- wise the tea leaves will have time to "stew" and spoil the tea.

PACK your plenie buskel, or tin, tightly, so that the contents have no chance to rattle about or push against each other in transit. Use unbreakable utensils or waxed containers, so that there is no fear' of brtokáges. Ice-cream curtons, thorough- ly cleaned, will come in very useful for picnics-for packing Individual dishes, etc.

INVEST. In t

a few waterproof cushions-there are not many Occasions when English grass is really dry and rheumatism- proofi~ If you havo garden cushions already, make the water- proot by slipping a square of rubber sheeling inside the cover. Tiny collapsible chairs are useful, too-and easily carried or packed into the car.

TAKE an eye-shade or hat with a brim, otherwise your outing will probably end in a headache. A damp sponge doesn't take up much room in your packing bag, but it sorves a great purpoze in wiping sticky trigers and faces.

CARRY a lump of ordinary washingsoda, and if anyone should be unfortunate enough to be stung by a wasp moisten the soda, and apply to sting, before seeking proper medical afd.

But if an "odd job"-hour or even- Into working order, slick to it. Re- Nursing Service, a series of lectures ing is fixed into the time scheme, solve that you will not be sinck over on First Aid and Home Nursing have these little Things get done auto- keeping the "dates"

or the whole been arranged for next month. malically, with no fuss and nervous

thing will go to pieces.

Commencing at @ pån, on Septem- wear and tear.

Another advantage of the time And the result? In a little while ber 5, Dr. (Miss) H. Y. Cheng will budget is that you dequire a really when you have ceased to regard give a lecture on Home Nursing in grand feeling of having plenty of your time budget as a problem child, the Queen Mary Hospital, while Dr. (Miss) S. Y. Cheng will speak on ume up your sleeve. No desperate and become instead its close friend, First Aid at the Kowloon Hospital, and at 6 pm. the same day Dr. (Miss) Mary Hospital at 0 p.m. on Septem- rush because everything is planned

that there won't you will get your reward. For not Bath these talks will be in Chinese. Ruttonjce will speak on Home ber 14, and on September 20, also at out No fear

Nursing at the Kowloon Hospital 0 p.m., Dr. (Miss) P. C. Lai be enough time, because the hours only will there be enough limo for;

On September 7 at 10 am. Dr. These lectures will be in English. speak on First Aid at the J. E. Dovey will deliver a lecture on Dr. (Mrs.) L. J. Dovey will lec-hospital. The former will be in First Aid at the Queen Mary Hospital, ture on Home Nursing at the Queen English and the latter in Chinese.

are labelled for whatever purpose your needs, but a little time to sparel

you have in mind.

Badge Whiley.

will

somo

be

+

TRADI

"WAR

"KEPLER'.

COD

Liver Oil

with

MALT Extract

The food which gives strength

Encourages appetite and growth. Helps children to build strong, bealthy bodies.

Enables adults to replace spent forces with renewed

energy.

The health-giver for young and old. Take it regularly.

الله

Bottles of two sites All Chemists and Stores

BURROUGHS WELLCOME & Co.

Tex Wellcome Foundation sta Länken, Engl

LONDON AND SHANGHAI

stem Copyright

Here's Luck!

EWO

BEER

Swan, Culbertson

Frits сая

Investment Bankers and Brokers

Members of New York Cotton Exchange

Chicago Board of Trade

Winnipeg Grain Exchange

Commodity Exchange, Inc., New York Canadian Commodity Exchange, Inc., Montreal

New York Coffee and Sugar Exchange

Manila Stock Exchange

Hongkong Share brokers Association Shanghai Stock Exchango

SHANGHAI, HONGKONG, MANILA AND SINGAPORE Cable Address: Swanstock

CRIME SCOOP!

2. EDGAR MOOYER

Director of Foderni Barnes of loves tigallan,

J. Edgar Hoover tells the true and amazing story of the no- torlous girl behind the kliler behind the gun... The punch- packed thrill picture of the year!

STARE-DUTI the B-naan staan de sin the west

gerousband of aristata, ibet ever settati. Vedio Banda valentinet standurbare 1

LITORY-NGAN MORRÍOLI The girl babled the Lier behind the sun-ken times tongkar

Adapted from J. EDGAR HOOVER'S ́

"PERSONS IN

#

HIDING

# TANNE OVERMAN PATRICIA MORISON J. CANROL NAISH JUDITA KAHREAT

Screen play by Williamu 18, 4 yuman and Huaca 51.ray,

A Pasabonit PretiUAS Directed by tam koş

TO-MORROW

QUEEN'S & ALHAMBRA

ཚ་

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