1939-08-25 — Page 34

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HONGKONG TELEGRAPH

FIRST NEWS FROM PARIS AUTUMN SHOWS EMPHA-

SISES:

+

Fullness; . at back in coats and dresses; military lines to suits; wide shoulders; fitting sleeves; bustles, tunics and aprons for afternoon dresses; plain moulded bodices to ac-

centuate waists; kats fitting closely on back of the head.

PARIS.

was almost a forc- gone conclusion that the autumn and winter fashions of 1939-40 should have a | somewhat military air,

But the fact that these military inspirations are, for the most part, drawn from the more or less ro- mantic period of 1779 softens the blow a good deal. Although, I must say that some of the full-length trim- coats, with fullness all to the back, and a few of the hats are a little uniform of our own Guards.

bastille

Youch

August 25, 1939.

fullwer back.

military

much for

Still, as a nice foil to the rest not exaggerated, or fairly there is a distinct flavour of the straight but not necessarily de- coy hustled years about 1870, pending on pleats for ease of when women refused to be part- movement, or with a straight ed from tunics, adored apron line in front and fullness at the effects (it made them feel back placed very low down. domestic and womanly) and had This last line is seen to good their bodices contrived na tight advantage in the Jean Desses and เง close-fitting a18 was collection where an elaborate may use chiffon smothered with to keep over short skirts, if they

paris openings.

focation.

P & O-BRITISH INDIA (APCAR) AND physically possible without suf-

EASTERN & AUSTRALIAN LINES

(Companies Incorporated in England.)

Taking Cargo on through Bills of Lading for STRAITS, JAVA & BURMA, CEYLON, INDIA, IRANIAN GULF, MAURITIUS, E. & S. ATUCA. AUB-

QUEENSLAND PORTS. AND TRALASIA. INCLUDING NEW ZEALAND RED HEA, EGYPT, EUROPE, ETC. PENINSULAI & ORIENTAL, FORTNIGHTLY DIRECT ROYAL MAIL STEAMENS

H

(Under Contract with M, Government.}

All resuela may call at any ports on or of the route, and the roule and all skiling are subject to change or deviation with or without notice.

Steamers

CARTHAGE

•1SOMALI

RAJPUTANA RANCHI *BANGALORE

RANPURA RAWALPINDI *BHUTAN

Tons | From H'Kong aboutį

.4,000 2nd Sept. 7,000 0th Sept. 17,000 10th Sept. 17,000 30 Sept. 6,000 7th Oct.

17,000 14th Oct. 17.000 28th Oct.

0,000 4th Nov. 15,000 11th Nov, 14,500 25th Nov,

CHITRAL

CORFU

• Cargo only.

† Calls Casablanca.

SHIRALA

•NOWSHERA

*NARINGA TALMA

SIRDHANA

Destination

Bombay, Marsellles & London. B'bay, M'sellles, Havre, I'don, Hull, 11'bg, R'dam & A'werp. Bombay, Marseilles & London. Marseilles & London, D'bay, M'selles, Havre, L'don, Hull, Hu, R'dam & A'werp, Marseilles

London. & Marseilles & London.

B'bay, M'seilles, Havre, Lidon, Hull, Hug, R'dam & Awerp. B'buy, Marsellies & London. Marseilles & London.

All vessels may call at Mala

BRITISH INDIA APCAR SAILINGS (SOUTH.)

6,000 26 Aug., 10.30 am. S'pore,

Swettenham, Penang Rangoon & Calcutta. DO, 8,000 9th Sept.

DO. 7,000 23rd Sept.

DO. 10.000

7th Oct,

DO. 10,000 21ai Out,

Port

• The "NOWSHERA" and "NARINGA" do not carry passengers.

1. I. Apcar Line Steamers have excellent accommodation for lat and Ind Class PRISED TACK

TANDA

NANKIN

NELLORE

EASTERN & AUSTRALIAN BAILINGS (BOUTIL)

7,000 2nd Sept.

7,000 30th Sept.

7,000 3rd Nov.

Manila, Rabaul, Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne & Hobart

Regular monthly sailings from Hongkong to Bhenghai and Japan and likong to Australia.

RANCHI

*NARINGA

•BANGALORE

NANKIN

RANPURA TALMA RAWALPINDI

SIRDHANA

• Cargo only.

Hong Kong to Bydney-19 days.

BAILINGS TO SHANGHAI & JAPAN.

17,000 31st Aug,

7,000 31st Aug.

0,000 7,000

1st Sept. 3rd Sept. 17,000 14th Sept. 10,000 14th Sept. 17,000) 20th Sept. 10,000' 20th Sept.

Shanghai & Japan. | Japan.

Shanghal & Jopan. Shanghat & Japan. Shanghal & Japan. Japan Shanghal & Japan. Japan.

All dates ut approximate and subject to alteration without notice. Parcele measuring not more, then 8 c.f.t. will be received at the Company's Office up to Doon on the day previous to sailing.

For Pakage Bates, Handbooks, Freight, etc., apply

Agents

0 Bding MACKINNON, MACKENZIE & CO. Photo 37781

Connaught R.C.

SWEDISH EAST ASIATIC

M.S."

"NINGPO"

sailing on

27th AUGUST

Fares from £58.10.0d to Antwerp

and London

Agents: GILMAN & CO. LTD.

HONGKONG Phone-30964.

4. K. HUYGEN CANTON BWATOW Phone 11495. Phone 1813.

REVOLUTIONARY THEME Creed is one of the houses which plays most skilfully and most successfully on the Revolu- tionary theme.

cut is introduced with a round- lashings of the finest lace. ed panel eut diving deep into the back of the skirt and a flare below it.

HIPS EMPHASISED

are very

11 back

Short Cuts

Use paper plates when feing

want to, for many of her hats show a high but not too high furry cuff pushed forward over Walsts and hips are definitely, the forehead with but not up to now-defiantly smoothly folding itself down layer cakes. Coats, too, nearly always accentuated (it is quite interest- over the hair, giving an effect show excess fullness placed at ing to notice that the manne which is dignified and youthful

at the same time. the back. In the house just

themselves quing mentioned the 1870 influence is obviously plumper than they've Some of his mannequins, in particularly strong. Not only been for a good many seasons), deed wear outfits which might are some of the skirts worn and although many of the new have been modelled on the with short tunics, but there are skirts are nearly knee-length it clothes of the Cantinieres which a good many apron effects and does not necessarily mean that followed the bare-legged, ragged, most of the jackets are wrist- other designers will follow this all-conquering army of the Be- length, and fitting from neck to lead. public, with their high-flung hem, with lavish displays of cocked hats, jackets tight-fitting such fur as astrakhan or fox. to the waist, then flaring out in

a dashing line, and short, nearly knee-length skirts.

HIDDEN MAGNIFICENCE

One of the things which is going to mitigate against this extra-brevity is the fact that hat-brims are so high. As I've High snug neck-lines and side said, some of them fairly tower,

ure the

powder puff

for tops

for caffex with

natural and when you have atyles which was bor

the

One or two, to further the fastenings illusion, even wear short boots, corollary, of course, to all this are

' falnt echo of fitting like gloves, covering the sort of thing, and it gives the eighteenth-century Grenadiers' ankle and laced at one side, onlooker a pleasant surprise to tall mitre hats and, in the Suzy And as a final touch, some of see the magnificence of the collection, an amusing shape the handbags are made like an blouses and waistcoats displayed obviously suggested by the eighteenth

soldier's when the jackets are removed. Grenadier Guardsman's bear- century powder-bag, slung from the neck with long straps to hang to the waist in front.

Lames, satins, brocades, fancy skin, too short skirta look un- satins, are four of the materiala balanced.

BURNS PHILP_LINE

used and when the designer is However, Suzy has a new line These new jackets are nearly in a very soft mood he (or she) which should help dressmakers wrist-length and, more often than not, in a contrasting colour and material to the dress or skirt.

A green velvet jacket with a black tie-silk frock which had a high stiff starched white collar and was worn with a cocked hat fringed with ostrich feathers, was one of the most successful outfits because it combined all the new fashion points.

The frock had the long fitting sleeves, widened at the shoul- ders, which is likely to be a feature of these collections, and the moulded bodice and the neat; waist which marks most of the dresses here. The starched collar, too, in novelty-a slightly uncomfortable ons, it seemed to me, for it forced the girls to keep their chins well

up.

A

Still, this is one of the pro- vokingly masculine accents which, in these collections, look so piquant with a feminine silhouette.

CONTRASTS THROUGHOUT

And one of the most interest- ing tendencies seen up to now is this contrasting jacket and; skirt-the former may be vel- vet, the latter cloth or vice- versa, but it appears both in the Revolutionary and the 1870 style of clothes, and the fact that the jackets are longer than we've seen them for some time; and more elaborate (they are: usually befurred or hung with military braid and tassels) gives the whole outfit a very dressy! air.

Skirts are obviously going to follow several lines-full and

Passenger & Freight Service To

AUSTRALIA

M.V.

"NEPTUNA"

duo SATURDAY, 26th August

sailing MIDNIGHT, TUESDAY,

29th August

SAIGON; .MADANG, SALAMAUA,

RABAUL, SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE

Excollant passenger accommodation with a large number of single cabins st no supplement. Built-In Swimming Bath and Spacious Sports Deck. First Class to Sydney:-

Singlo-£47.10.0d. Return-£76.0.0d. Passenger & Freight Agents:-- GIBB, LIVINGSTON & CO., LTD.

Tel. 28031

all fit closady to buck

director

effect

of Lese

Salad greens--lettuce, ro- maine, watercress, chicory, endive, escarolo-should be washed at once, shaken free of excess water and But into a tightly covered dieh to be crisp and cold for serving.

Diced apple added to chicken salad improves the flavour,

Comfortable Shoes

For the beach and pattering about

sandals,

your lawn sockless, choose fabric clogs or the Mexican fluirackos “innde-of-woven strips

leather. Whichever you choose, get something that will fit comfortably

and stay on without having to strain Such your toes to keep them there. shoes are cool and will allow your feet to get plenty of fresh air and exercise.

Choose comforable shoes for the

too. house and dress wear,

Your feet will tend to swell slightly on

hot days, so you'll be wise to get your shoes about a half-size larger than you usually wear,

Melba Rings

When you wish to dress up your luncheon or supper and there isn't tline to stir up hot biscuits or muffins, slee stale bread as thin as you can and cut into rings with a doughnut culler and brown slowly in the oxen or under a low broiler flame. When dry and crisp serve with butler and if you have it, a jar of your very special jam.

CANADIAN PACIFIC

STEAMSHIPS - HOTELS -

- RAILWAYS - EXPRESS

Very

TO HONOLULU, CANADA, UNITED STATES

and EUROPE

via Shanghai, Kobe & Yokohama EMPRESS OF JAPAN via Honolulu EMPRESS OF ASIA via Honolulu EMPRESS OF CANADA via Honolulu, EMPRESS OF RUSSIA

Noon, Fri, Sept. 1. ..Noon, Fri, Sept. 15.

Noon, Fri, Sept. 29. Noon, Fri, Oct. 13.

Emprem of Rumla & Empress of Asia call at Nagasaki

Air-conditioned equipment on C.P.R. Trans-Continental Trains Frequent Canadian Pacifio Atlantio sailings to European Foris TO MANILA

EMPRESS OF ABIA

Union

Building

P. & O. Bldg.

Thurs. Sept. 7.

Telephone

20752

Canadian Pacific