1938-10-20 — Page 10

10

RETURN TO THE HILLS OF HOME

I'

the worst that con befall n bative of Edinburgh is to leave the fair elty for life in a dirty and noisome industrial centre, la not the height of good fortune the sudden and un- the cherishtied expected return to surroundingsat

Only those who have been too long away from "Auld Reeklo" casi savour the glorious tang of the chill, clear air, so invigorating after a wenty sojourn in damp and sooly surroundings.

The first thought of the wanderer of the old hill roads and bare moorlands, which lle as close to the city. Will there be many changes? Han ribbon development and bungn- outwards und lold growth crept stifled the fresh and open country- side7

The old scenes must be revisited. and without delay, so the road wor taken for the South and soon its changed appearance astonished, with Its sprawl of building where once were green tolds,

Fairmilchead looked now a town instead of n aulet cross-roads, and the houses seemed to pursue the car down to Bowbridge and It slipped 1* Lothianburn.

The gradient at Hillend, with its Ane views to the east, showed further determined patches of enter- prise scattered over the broad plain. coloured Red roofs, grey roots, houses now greeted the eyes. The old pink shale bings were never lovely, but now they look compara- tively unclent and dignified.

Flotterstane Bridge

down

Soon the old, peaceful surround- ings arose on either side. Dropping to Fiollersini Diridge, the well-remembered bend caused the brakes to slow the car just enough for safety without losing too much

eed for the long l speed

upwards. Tho

road to Glencore reservoir and Logonlee recalled a chance re- mark, heard in exile, that wheeled trame can no longer use this route Rullion Green to the right, where the Covenanters fought and died. scon drops behind, as Flottersigne was breasted ut full throttle.

Now came tho moorland, with the slopes of the Pentlands reaching down to the road. How good it was to be again close to the hills! Cas aethy's shoulder turned to admit the cleft of the Kirk Rond, winding up between it and Senid Law, and now came Silverburn.

Silverburn is a word which lingers in the mind and can never be for gotten, always prosenting the ple- turo of the rolling slopes of the Pentlands, sunilt or mist-wreathed, inviting their friends to trump again in their green valleys.

Eight Mile Burn, and on for the "y" Junction-clcer cond both ways, and now Nine Mile Burn lay ahead. By the tree-shaded straight road the way led down the hill to Cartops-or the "Carline's Loup" as its old nome ia given. Some say yes and some say no, advancing other derivations of an admittedly curious name, but the old tale of the witch. who tho "louped" in darkness among rocks at the end of the bruses, com. plete with broom and feline panion, seems enally the most ot tractive one to bellevel

Fishing Days.

O

THE .HONGKONG TELEGRAPH.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER

20, 1938.

GOSSIPING

VER stains of foaming beor, glasses of allvo- vitch or raki, sometimes over the ceremonial cup

of coffee, I have been gossiping with the great, the near great and the man in the street-gos- siping my way across Europe and Asia Minor,

In the beer-gardens, “puba "*' and cafes of eight countries I have chatted-always about "the crisis." Sometimes it was our crisis, sometimes the cristo of failing crops, once a alck pig, another time a sick Dictator.

It is great fun this gossiping. Sometimes it has a spice of danger, an when I gossiped with the good- looking girl in Hamburg who sold she was a Boctalist. Afterwards found she was a Nazi agent testing my credentials. She need not have worried-I carried no bombs or cameras; just a pon.

But there is always gossip-in some countries it is secret chatter In whispered in quiet corners.

freer, happler lands you talk as you lie in the aun or on a bathing beach or in a moonlit beer garden overlooking the Bosphorun.

I went across Europe to Asia Minor not to gossip but to try out a new British car. You've read about the test-here, now, is what we gossiped about across Europe.

IN Ankara, that queer ancient-

and-modern capital of Turkey. high up in the mountains et Anatolia. I talked to the Propa- ganda Chlet. "The Turk is never so happy as when he is entertain- ing frienda," he told me over our coffee-you cannot talk in Turkey without conce.

He leaded me with books and pamphlets, told me that the two most popular English newspapers In Turkey are the "Times" and the Daily Herald "-here the Thun- derer lien down with the Lion of Long Acre.

surname

But he wouldn't tell me why Kemal Ataturk the means Turk No. 1-hard-drinking. hard-working Dictator of Turkey. horo to 85 per cent, of Turks, is in hiding on his two-funnelled yacht, biggest in the world, on the Bos- phorus.

"They say he is ill, even whis- per that he is dying. A newspaper

"best of all smokes"

which hinted at this was suspended The Daily for three months. com-

Herald" revealed he was suffering from a serious liver complaint just before I started East. But I didn't toll my Turk that, which just shows you who knows best about local news.

of

on

A pleasant place; surely the best of all quiet country runs, with the memories of countless parties hill-walkora, Bired and wet and hun. gry, crowding found a roaring fire Cosy nights when the snow beat the windows and the gute roared round down from the hills. Fishing days which ended there-long, lazy summer rambles crowned with cool tankard in the pleasant dark- ness of the little bar.

Here a halt was imperative, and the pleasure of visiting again a fa- vourite spot was marred by the sad news that an old friend had passed on,

Restarting, the little side roud to

Trouble is that there is no Turk No. 2 that is Turkey's crisis, About the other crisis they have got it all weighed up-"we shall never make again the mistake of fighting our friends the English- we have to-day a modern mechan-

Edinburgh:

across

Europe

by T. H. Wisdom

"the bar-a grocer's shop "

ised army, an air force (Ataturk's adopted daughter is commander- In-chief), and the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus are heavily forti- flcd."

It's a happy land, this modern

only Turkey: I met

one un- happy man, near the village of Hamidye, once the property of Bul- tan Abdul the Damned. He was close to tears, for his pig was dying. Even Chief Eunuch of Stam1 --

the boul is happy in the new Euro- peanised Turkey. He once looked after the wives of Sultan Abdal Hamid (the " damned" one); now, though still looking and speaking the part, he wanders the bazaars.

He tried, auccessfully, to sell me ah ancient camel bell (what queer things some of us do collect!) But, though the fez and the yasmik are forbidden, and polygamy is no longer officially practised, they like the new Turkey. "The modern

Turk

not int young

and amorous-he is a sportsman," my. friend told me.

Na hot day that followed u sandstorm adventure I enjoyed the finest drink Imaginable-Per- sian tea.

Over a hubble-bubble-the best and most sanitary of all smokes, with which I became most prof- elent-Iinquired why the Turks buy so much from Germany. "Germany owes us so much for raw materials wo sold her once that we have to *take her goods. We don't like them. -the cars break down and the guns won't fire. We want, most of all, British goods."

☆

SWIMMING in the hot baths the

Emperor Justinian's wife balt 1,400 years ago at Bursa, once the capital of the Ottoman Empire-00 miles into Aala from Stamboul- the keeper of this ancient pool told mo, "the Turks had 10 years of war, the Balkan War, the Great War, then the War for Independence so you see we have learned to long for peace. But all the same we are ready-we don't want the Germans back, as friends or enemies."

"

We moved on to Bulgaria, to Bola, the tiny ancient capital once a Turkish outpost to guard

the Dragoman Pass. A queer coun try-King Boris Ands kingship wearying; as a boy he longed, as has many another boy, to be an engine-driver. He realised his am- bition, and that is why, now, he often drives a Bulgarian express- really drives it. As a result the Bulgarian railway system is some- thing quite modern, unlike the

roads.

We heard the local gossip in Bofla's one bar-a grocer's shop, where consula, merchants and other Englishmen meet and drink their slivovitch cocktails leaning against a sack of flour and dodging

hanging steing of musage.

Next we called in at Nis, clap. hum Junction of the Orient Ex- Dress and with but two other claima to fame "there is a lower there built by the Turks which has as "bricks the skulls of slaugh- tered Serbs, and the local hotel has Last now installed a bathroom. time I was there the bathroom was a tin contrivance on the balcony overlooking the main street.

✩

Un

BELGRADE an unfriendly city that sita the peninsula formed by the joining of rivers Bave and Danube. There is a spy fever in the capital of Jugoslavia, and everywhere you meet dour plain-

"bathroom on the balcony"

clothes men who eye you suspi- clously. Not much gossip here but Jugoslavia looks uneasily at her "friends" Germany and Italy- wishes she were more friendly with Britain.

-To-day's Thought How awful to reflect that what people say of us is true.

-L. P. SMITH.

EVERYONE

USES CODE

"gayest of all capitalx"

In Cologne it is butter that un- accountably, the housekeeper has forgotten to order.

We are searched for smuggled marks at the frontier, and, with relief, we leave Germany. There is Ittie gossip there.

IN Antwerp & German, fervent admirer of the Führer, and longing to return to Dusseldorf, tella mo: "Yes, we will sacrifce anything for our country--why do you tell auch Res about us? His

his long stays in

retreat at Berchtesgaden? Only because he

goes there to rest and think up new plans for his country.

"Goering-ah, we are learning to hate him. He is too ambitious, he wants to take the Führer's place."

And so, we sight, at last, the white clits of Britain again. We remember our last bit of gossip, the remark of a lonely Consular official in the Balkans, "England's a damn awful country, with its taxes and restrictions, but, good Lord, it is ten thousand times better than any other."

Guide to T. H. Wisdom's Refreshments SLIVOVITCHS-a spirit distilled from

plums and cherries, something like kirsch.

Esteemed in Bulgaria and

Jugoslavia.

Or

RAKE-an anleeed-tasting, clear white spirit. Turns cloudy with added absinthe) water (cf. pemod Esteemed in Turkey and Oreece (where they call it arak). BARACK-apricot brandy which the

Hungarians like.

HUBBLE-BUBBLE erhaps you know it better as your old friend the Irookah. PERAJAN TEA-is served in slender glasses; It is scented with rose leaves, and tastes like China tea, only more 30. It is grown locally.

however, realise how general the use of codes is.

Shopkeepers and wholesalers, im- porters and exporters, in fact al- most every known business-all em- ploy codes in one form or other, ranging from the simple price codes of the shopkeeper to the complicated

codes cypher

used in

many businesses.

Secrecy and economy are the two main factors which dictate the use of codes. Many arms, for instance, allot code-words to articles to facill tate their being ordered by telegram. Most of us are familiar with the codes used in many shops which enable an assistant to glance at

rlee ticket, price

bearing one letters which convey nothing to us, and say, "This one is 28 ild, sir, or "That will come in a bit dearer, madum-is 64,"

or two

But then the assistant has the key CODE mesanges Agure largely in to the code, often simply the alloca- the reports of espionage cases, llon of a letter of the alphabet to which are such a common feature each of the figures 0-9. of present-day news. Few people,

Changing the Key Continued on Nert Column.)

As it is, and Might Be

users

Frequent visits to any particular shop, however, are not likely to lead to our discovering the key, an most of the shops employing such codes change the key regularly.

Wholesale houses are

of autonomy as public opinion becomes somewhat similar codes in the cata- ripe for it.

logues issued to retailers, so that the It is just in this that an awaken- lafter may show them to customers seen, ing among the educated classes of without divulging their cost price.

Probably the largest users of codes does not ex- Edinburgh would be enormously ad-

people keep are firms engaged in the import and

A WELL-KNOWN writer has sald symptomatic of the quality of their be the nucleus of a wider form of

that Edinburgh is beautiful, but, thinking.

strong Copying the Sassenach

the left just the village brought back like Bath, dead. It is a

what extent Is It

but there

values, In

PRESIDENT LINER SAILINGS

S.S. PRESIDENT COOLIDGE

sailing

October 21st

for

-at-9 a.m.

SHANGHAI

KOBE

-

YOKOHAMA -

HONOLULU SAN FRANCISCO & LOS ANGELES

Dollar Steamship Lines,

12, Pedder Street

Limited

Phone 28171.

SWEDISH EAST ASIATIC

SERVICE OF FAST MOTOR VESSELS

(with flmlted. but exceptionally good passenger accommodation) TO FORT SUDAN, PORT SAID, ALGIERS, ORAN, CASABLANCA. HAMBURG, ANTWERP, KOTTERDAM, (AMSTERDAM1), COPENHAGEN, OSLO, GOTHENBURG and older SCANDINA- VIAN PORTS. HOMEWARDS:

M.V. "BHANTUNG"

BLY. "TAMABA"

Balling about

29th Oc

27th Nov.

OUTWARDS to: Yokohama, Kobu & Osaka.

M.V. "NANKING"

15th Nov.

M.V. "PEIPING"

Passenger Rates:

.13th Ded

£53.0.0.

To London or Antwerp

Hongkong, GILMAN & CO., LTD.

Phone: 30000.

Agents:

Canton.

Q. E. HUYGEN,

Риоде: 11495.

OUR BRITISH CROSSWORDS

ACROSS

1 A book about foreign coins is

not easy to tuckłe (11),

O Take a good look (4).

10 Putting in a remark (11).

11 This dish is apparently of

occidental origin, (4)--

more memories of frosty days on the statement. To

the Irish, as we havo In curling pond,

true? now dry and reedy and awaiting is winter Importance.

This, I think; it has lost its former their national sense By a steep and twisting descent identity. Any national sense that haust itself in romantlelsm. It is vontageous. Those

of the city. A larger ployed daily in the receipt and dis- the way ran by the old stone atches remains in it, and this is truc of partly utiliturian. They are anxious themselves apart from the corporate export trades, where codes ure em-

country prosperous, activity where tinkers used to camp in n Scotland generally, is romantle. Cul- to make their

not want to sacrifice sprinkling of them in public bodies patch of cablegrams.

There arc several well-known cosy troglodytis existence, seeming-turally, I am afraid, it is living on but they do

of this class that makes strangers ly impervious to roughweather. The

the reputation created by those who their own culture on the altor of would do good. It is the somnolence sharp hairpin turn to the left at the

where words or combination of lot- are one. There are plenty of re- prosperity.

not like the think that Edinburgh, as a national standard codes in internuilonal use

eapital, is dead.

to the various are allotted cross roads had grown no wider, fined people in Edinburgh, and per- We, of course, are und the car's lock just falled to take haps a good many cultured people, Irish temperamentally, though we Those retiring people could anim-ters

generally employed is little evidenc of the have a Celtic fringe; yet perhaps we It.

presence of people animated by a could, at least, learn that it is perii ate the public life of the city on the words, sentences, phrases, While reversing,..Indecision coine.

oak men have not quite the quality that business. culture, indeed oua for a people to substitute for its cultural side. The busy practical etc., most Why not right for West Linton by distinctive national

These codes are extremely com the "little" road? Straight on for by any characteristically Scottish war culture an allen way of spoke is seeded. The fostering of the

is not within their purview.prehensive, and enable messages to Macblo Hill, and home by Lendburnt outlook. The influence of English ing. living, and thinking. And, talk "

fraction of what their 14 If 10 down were simple as this-- on this country has been as we may about Scottish lite, it is we have no right to expect it to ha.be sent at culture No, by Harlow Moor and Auchen-

undeniable that it has receded before

ore They do their part in directing the cost would be if plain language It would lose three letters (7). corth Moss the way must be, for no alarmingly pronounced.

Wave of English usage, and functions of the city, and they do were used, but even more compre. 17 Famous actor (3), one who has hungered for the sight Not so with Ireland. The Irish the

the a strange pleasure in

ot do it so badly, but if the town hensive and economical are the 18 The wise men of the Anglo- have a higher national sense than found

of that usage. Thus our lacks intellectual vigour we cannot cypher codes. of the Pentlands through many

Saken parilament (3). a city adoption we have. Dublin is still weary years could repist, the view

10 He was swallowed by a snake that encourages and nourishes the national identity has suffered and blame them, but the large sections of eastern rampart

attitude to the outside educated of their

for tea (5). has not our native

and comfortably situated, Compact and Economical arts. Cosmopolitanism from the moor road.

Dublin. Its

national world has been villated. So by the narrow and straight dominated

We see the contrary tendency in People who live as a class apart,

Edinburgh is the capital of Scot-}

Many firms utilise private cypher 20 What you probably have in

hand at the present (5). road by Harbour Craig and literature and drama remains potent,

tho

perhaps land, countries

and it should lead Seollend. codes in which combinations of two

from 01-00 represent 21 A croquet term (0). and is on expression of its bellef in some of the North Eak the card. The Irish do not even affect rather aggressively manifested, yet it has pre-eminently all the features numbers turned homoward, Now

sunlight

a partly under of a capital city. hut it har not main words, sentences, etc., each combina- | 22 Tennyson wrote more than one

(5). clouds alternated, throwing

peared the standable counterblast to the inter- inined Its Intellectual and artistic tion, beint converted from the key 23 A great epic (5). ring the English way of speaking, be there bright patches and dark shadows on cause they have not

In this way. a code word of five 24 This call is mainly nothing the awelling hills, more majestic now when sech from and quailty of speech of a people is a resistance to the development of thought and action of Scotland. It words or sentences, and whilst the f

far higher and English way of thinking. The mode national submergence of nationalism tradition. It does not lead the into a letter of the alphabet.

after all (5). a polyglot world.

Is largely indifferent to Scottish But a sane maintenance of the autonomy, and this indifference is secrecy of codes provides a fascinal 25 Any across might make this

wine (7). to travellers by the nearer Mauricewood over to the outward

life that is Indigenous to a country turning it into an ordinary provin- ing theme in espionace novels. In left ps

business it is the economy that 20 A good dog of nursery days route, and the car turned

(4). Mount Maw, Green Law, and West though steering; itself.-Up by the 'need not be aggressive or in any way clal town. The cosmopolitan, spiral counts. ·

to a wisely conceived nationalism rehabilitation of our national, spirit nethy approach. The gaunt stone stone was again reached, and then in a people is synonymous with per- Is

aqueduct protrude for home, with the glorious th of the the moseland like sentinels that now "home" really meant Edinsonality in an individual. If it de

Valley

and

as seen

this distance than they revoni them-

solven

road.

Lowere from

all, "

thought

roundings of the past long years.

other

is in this

.:

The bookmaker who provides his 32 Dogmatic (1)). clients with a code for telegraphing 33 Invalid, (4),

guarding the shoop which roam this burgh and not the revolting niclines some of the main incitements ofum, could do much to restore the amplos. of the users of codes, and

of life are lost. What answer can be made to the An Awakening Needed

Delves.

ber of balls (11).

DOWN

2 An aurllerous district (4).

3 Second-hand anyhow (4):

if the best equipped bels and the tipater with his coded 34 Being present at a certain num- of its poonle would assert them- Information are only two more ex-

quiet stretch.

preative of Scotland and, at the same what boy has not at one time or At last comes follage, and the

time. Its own prestige. If it remains other enjoyed the thrill of sending road dipk down to join the main oft revented question-Glad to be

If Peebles-Penicuik highway, with its back?" Words cannot describe such Hanpily there are aims of its re- Indifferent to this it need not be secret messages?

Inteligent strangers How many people, when they say Scotland. Scottish rised busy traffic and all the sims of a things but may everyone who longs habilitation In

gradually dead.

think it like Dath--beautiful, bul “OR4" stou to think that they are work-a-day world.

for a return to the fairest clly soon administrative staff are

being transferred from London to ---The "short stretch through the old have that wish fulfilled!

Robert Ginon Daviausi coder Edinburgh, and this change may well town recalls thelitis road by

L. 8. P.

4 Ho is among those "beyond the

nale perhaps (3)

8 Material for making rupes (6).

A ittle dash is enough clue (5).

C. P.

7 By way of experiment (11).

8 The place to tell the man with the horses to get to the side of the road. (11).

12 No, those who are guilty of this erline need not be physically strong (11).

13 "Pais cycle it" (anag.) (11). 14 A big step over something (7), 15 Feminine name (8),

10 Description of a dark person bashful about a skin blemish (7).

18 Scene of a battle in Ireland (5). 20 A little bird, you can see it after

the seed (5).

27 A reformned Siren (5),

28 An emply place to shun (8),,

30 Early OT. character (4),

31 This offer is in the future (4),

YESTERDAY'S SOLUTION C ̄OMÄT CHLEBR

EXTRAORDINARY

BT FORTRON

O BOP CHAIN BURB

A HTLESS GRAPHTC TUDI

COLOGNE COUNSEL HA XR8 BATS

NOTONI

"TOP OG DAPH

ONECTARINE

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