1938-08-11 — Page 22

10

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH,

THURSDAY, AUGUST 11, 1938.

ASCENT INTO HELL

H. W. Tilman and his six Himalaya. When night softens companions attempted a final over Darjeeling and the sun assault on Everest recently. They puts brassy, fingers to the rim failed.

of the horizon the peaks are

The monsoon, greatest enemy caught in n pink luculence so of Everest clinibers, stopped that they stand out like a wo- them. The monsoon brings man's finger-nails. show. A thin sprinkling of icy

dear cost.

If you have courage to ride powder on the slabs of the out to Tiger Hill at 2 a.m., feel. frencherous Norton's traverse

a highwayman, you ing like makes the route to the summit have as reasonable a chance of impassable.

That has been learned at seeing Everest as the ordinary human being can expect. If you strain your eyes to the A man who has stood close to north-west, and follow the out the peak has written: "The last thousand feet of Everest stretched hand of the syce, and are not for mere flesh and have great faith, you can per- sunde yourself that you see the Whoover reaches the summit, if he does it without ice-shrouded bastions of that artificiul air, will have to rise 29,002ft. foc.

blood.

gollike above his own frailties It is with a sobering flash of and his tremendous environ- fear that you turn away from the malignant beauty of the ment."

Glittering auccess or, glorious mountains.

failure, all honour to H. W. Til- Far below lies the green and man, N. E. Odell, P. R. Oliver, purple route into Sikkim and E. D. Shipton, F. S. Smythe, C. the arid path to the Rongbuk B. M. Warren, and P. Lloyd. ·

glacier. The

march through

Drink At P&O-BRITISH INDIA (APCAR) AND

Highland Funerals

THE allegations as to funeral de- bauchery on the Island of Raasay, so widely broadcast lately, will probably add some colour to that ancient jest as to the tendency of Highlanders to drink to excess at the burial of their friends and ne- quaintances.

One speaker to whom I listened some years ago, spoke of "Highland funerals and other festive occasions." He was in the way of, being fagctl- ous, but there are many who would consider such a joke out of place.

I have attended scores of funerals In the Hebrides and can conscient!- qusly say that never at any time have I seen mourners under the influence of drink. All one can say then is, that If the complaints as to drunken orgies at Ransay burials have any foundation in fact, tho position is as deplorable as it la unusual,

I hasten to say that after careful inquiry to-day from people who are in the best position to know, I can find no support at all for the allega- tions made. Even if the reports now partially or totally sub- current were unfair to besmirch the whole Heb- ridean group of tales, no if debau- chery on sad and sacred occasions

What is the use of climbing Tibet is no picnic. Climbing par marks the "track of a wild, Without the sun life would

ties tell of an eternal foul dust this highest mountain?

hairy man"-been found, like be impossible. When there is "No use at all," says Sir whirled into food, drink and that seen at more than 20,000 no wind it is possible to sun-stantiated, it would surely be grossly

All the offal and re- feet on the north ridge in 1921? bathe in the lightest clothes. Francis Younghusband, whose throats. early surveys fired determina- fuse of this vast country are And has that Unseen Pre- When the sun vanishes the mer- tion for the conquest. No more powdered by the dry wind into sence been felt-the Strange cury drops like a stone

Companion that caused F. S. These falls, registered on one Smythe, alone at a great height occasion, are not abnormal: in 1933, instinctively to divide

use

By Peter Grive

4.

into two equal parts the food he

And have those dark, pulsat-

than kicking a football a loathsome, suffocating cloud, was about to ent? about, or dancing. or playing It has been felt even high on the on the piano. The geologist northwest face of Kanchenjung "kite-balloons" again been predicts to a certainty that no ga.

out

seen?

4.10 p.m.

4.15

4.25

4.30

were general.

of

To all thinking people the burial the dend is a matter of deep significance; to the Highlander is particularly so. Some customs which with this sad event he mesocintes have been imposed upon him by cir- instance, he has, cumstances. For even to this day, to travel long

dile tances to the kirkyard; in the days of yesteryear, the Journey, however long and arduous, was undertaken on foot. Places of refreshment were few, and according to im-

65 deg. F. Sunset 20 deg. F. 7 deg. F. Night minimum temperature

16 deg. F. Frost-bite. heart dilation, The easy explanation for lung trouble, laryngitis, influ- gold will be found on the sum- No man-made shadow has Everest phenomena is lack of enza, a skinned face and cracked mit, and if gold did exist no ever fallen on the summit of oxygen. Hugh Ruttledge, leader lips are the lot of the man who

Everest except on that bright of the 1933 and 1936 expedi- defies Everest-if he lives. one would be able to work it.

"Climbing

Everest day in 1933 when a black aero- tions, once had an offer from a Mount

Remember, when you hear will not put a pound into any plane wing-tip came between manufacturer to lay a system news of the Tilman Expedition, one's pocket. It will take a the sun and the ice. It is now of gas-piping up the mountain these words of Smythe, who good many pounds

of generally believed that Mallory for the delivery of oxygen at trod the very limits of physical people's pockets."

and Irvine failed in their at the high camps.

endurance: It has certainly done that. tempt in 1924, that a fatal slip The ease for oxygen-carrying "The summit wis just in view The cost of each expedition has occurred on the ascent some has not been proved. Extra- over the rock band. It was only becn between £10,000 and where near Camp Six.

ordinary results have neen 1,000ft, above me, but an acon of Has Mr. Tilman more news of achieved by slow acclimatisa- tion on bastion and slab on slab, the vicariness separted me from it. Bas- £15,000.

Is it a fair price for the last them? Has further, trace been tion.

rucks were piled in tremendous con-

light-yellow great adventure the world has found-like that ice-axe, in per- To the porters

edges who alone fusion, their

ghostlike against the deep-blue sky to offer? Is it a fair price to feet condition, found nine years make climbing possible Everest From the crest a white plume of pay for a man to stand higher later just below the crest of the is Hell. Death waits in the floated silently away, like of the relatives of the dead. than a man has ever stood be- north-east ridge?

crevasses, on the slabs, on the ending volcanic steam, but where fore?

And have the Abominable steep snow slopes, ready to stood there was not a breath of wind ankle and the sun blazed into the hollow So Bercely beautiful and un- Snowmen appeared to terrorise twitch a fool here, an

with an intense flerceness, yet with- attainable Jook the peaks of the the party? Have further foot- there.

out warming the cold air,”

The Soviet High Command

Of the leaders of army, navy, 1917 he became aric air force al

Moscow.

SMIRNOV NOTED ORGANISER

memorial custom the relatives of the departed acted as hosts to the way- foring mourners.

Unquestionably alcoholic liquors of old Highland and Hebridean were served, but search the records

paristies ns you will, and I doubt whether you will find any account of such debauchery as the Ramsay complainers allude to. Highlander was hospitable. Thus it Even the hour of grief, the

was that any traveller, whatever his social status, who met the funeral procession on the road, had to stop and accept refreshment at the hands

It has been sald that in the old

whisky were consumed at Highland funerals. Such emphatically was not the case; there is no worth-while tradition on this point, and. I Invite anyone who knowa of drunken orgies in the smuggling days from any written records to produce evidence of li.

smuggling days, large quantities of

In pre-war days, when liquor was about a fifth of its present price, the people in crofting districts, as a rule, He was born in 1882 in Zlatoust Wrangel's attempt to break through

provided two glasses of whisky for Recent changes, through execution or arrest. in the Red in the Urals. After being graduated to the Donbass from the Crimen.

each mourner who attended the fun-. from middle school he entered the

eral of their dead. Over and above Army's higher commands have placed upon the shoulders of military school in Moscow and later

solld refreshment was Invariably relatively unknown men the task of directing the giant Soviet the Milltury Academy of the General

P. A. Smirnov, vice commissar of provided. Surely, it must be agreed, military machine in event of war.

Staff, from which he was graduated defence, head of the navy, went to that this was a perfectly reasonable in 1910 and attained the rank of

post after having been that

ap-measure of entering for people who in the Czarist

Ho army. a close friend of volonel

had pointed head of the political depart-had

travelled long distances. Now- the guy stalin and made a brilliant record joined the Red Army upon its or- ment of the ariny. Ife is known as days, because of the increased price two remain. They are Klementi as a tactician. He was commander ganisation in 1918.

When the civil war began. Sha- an excellent organiser, particularly of licensed drink, the funeral "al-

lowance defence, in succession of the Ukrainian, the poshnikov was appointed chief commissar of

of in political work, and was given the

Is necessarily curtalled. and Marshal Vassily Bluccher, head Tenth and the Fourteenth Bolshevik the operative department of the field zionvictite bands in the Leningrad

llence, one has some difficulty in un- Is happening at of the Far-Eastern army.

and held this post until the Garrison and Baltic Fleet.

Raasay. Perhaps, at no distance Boris Mikhailovich Shapesbalkov

Voroshilov became commissar of end of the war, being cred

credited

with Smirnov was born in 1007, the date, we may be able to glean the replaced

A. 1.

1. Yegorov as chief of defenes upon the death of Michael many valuable operative plans for

source of the trouble. worker, became a son of a metal and remained in P. A. Smirnov replaced V. M. Frunze in 1925,

the numerous und diverse fronts on carpenter and Joined the revolu

N. A. J. as head of the navy.. Ale command and

good favour which the army was fighting. For

tionary movement be- through the difficult period of the this work he was awarded the order years later he joined the Commun- In 1915. Two xander Dmitrievich Loktionov

of 1937. came head of the nie force replacing army purge of

ist party. Jacob Alksnig and 1. F. Fedko suc- His wife Katerina, was a cumi-

Varoshilov,

staff.

O:10

vice commissar of defence,

armies.

In

staff

of the Red Banner in 1021.

derstanding what task of liquidating" Trotskyite-

I. Fedke, first vice-commissar

eeeded to the position of the notori- pankon of revolutionary days. They HEADED MILITARY ACADEMY of defence, is the same age as Smir- Das Marshal Tukhachevsky as first have one son and also reared the As vice chief of staff after the nov, likewise was a carpenter and

children of Frunze.

civil war, Shinposhnikov assisted in entered the Communist party in the All of the new appointees are of Marshal Bluecher spends most of reorganisation of the Red Army; same year. Entering the Czarist proletarian origin with the exeep his time in the Far East, where he then became vice commander of army' as a conscript, Fedko became

of Shaposhnikov, who was hns bullt up *

powerful, semi- the Leningrad military area, com a non-commissioned officer and after Czarist officer who early joined independent army equipped to de- munder of the Moscow military the revolution played an active role the revolution. Despite their pre- fend the frontiers with as little area, chief of staff. commander of with the red forces during the civil vious relative obscurity their biog- help as possible from far-distant the Volga military area and in 1932 raphics show long service of notable European Russia.

chief of the Military Academy of the Graduating Now in his 50s, Bluccher is pleas- Red Ariny. character in the Red Any and with

tlon

und

of Volchlakva

of the

the air force

war.

(TO-MORÉOW-Italy.)

com-

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J. K. Bousfeld, Esq. J. R. Masson, Eag A. il. Compton, Esq. G. Miskin, Esq. Hon. Mr. B. II. Dadwell K., Morrison, Eag M., Johnson, Esq. Hou, Mr. A. L.. Bhields D. C. Kamondston, Est Acting Chief Manager,

DRANCHES

AMOY

BANGKOK BATAVIA BOMBAY

CALCUTTA

CHEFOO

COLOMBO DAIREN FOOCHOW HAIPHONG HAMBURG)

HANKOW HARDIN HONGKEW 101L0 2018

from the Frunze Mlitary Academy in 1922, he later the exception of Sinteny excellent ant, affable in conversation, but de- He joined the Communist party in was made vice commander of the qualifications for their posts. Al- cisive ofiteer, he joined the Bolshe, 1930,

Leningrad military circuit, though he heads the navy, Smirnov's vlks In the carly days of the During his period as head of the mander of the maritime group of the experience has been exclusively well revolution and saved the Far East Military Academy he developed its Far Eastern Army. qualified politically, an important for the Soviets.

work on a large scale and wrote a consideration in the Soviet view- LONG POWERFUL IN FAR EAST number of scientifle military works. point.

His Red Guard defeated Kolchak He became chief of the general staff MEN NOT IN LIMELIGHT units on the southern and Asiatle in 1938,

brought the victory

Alexander Dmitrievich Loktio Aside from Voroshilov and Blue- fronts cher, little is known of the person-Bluecher the position of minister of nov. formerly commander ality or individual life of the high war in the Far Eastern Republic in Central Asiatic Milltary Circuit, be-

the disorganised, came commander of commanders. It is not Soviet prae- 1020. He united tice to publicize an individual, and scattered Red partisans to drive oui in December, 1937, will the arrest Paid-up Capital .......... 3.000.000 CANTON wint little is known of the indivi- Japanese units still occupying part of Alksnis. He previously had been Reserve abil

the Voroshilov of the young republic, then when the commander of air forces first in dunl characteristics of

1022 White In.

Russian, then of Kharkov and Bluccher only leaked out during capture

opened the gateway to Kharborovsk, military circulls and wears the Or- the passage of years.

Voroshilov, the trim and dapper the "Peoples Revolutionary Army" der of the Red Star for its work in

Amritsar leader, enjoys the respect and de- occupied it, advanced further south strengthening the air forces of the Alor Star

driving

the Whites toward, Visdi- nation.

Bangkok vation of his men. He has an nt. driv

PARENTS. WERE "PEASANTS Belavia Bluccher returned

Bembay tractive personality, likes to ride and vostok. shoot, and is as much as anyone 1922 when the Far Eastern Republle remote village

Loktionov was born in 1803 in Calcutta

of Kursk province. Canton an intimate of Stalin.

rall was admitted to the Soviet Union, Ilis peasant Born in 1881, the son of o

father was unable stopere

Cebu road worker, Voroshllov began work joined Frunze and Vorashilov in re- support his family

from his tiny Colombo at the age of 7 picking ore in the constructing the Red Army, then farm, so the boy spent 15 years in Delhi

bedame "General Galens" with the Ukraine, working as a brick- Haiphong th subsequently shepherd, farm labourer and indus. Chlung Kol-shek, When the latter layer. Despite extreme poverty, heankow ended his negotiations with the So- took a trial worker until at the age of 10, viets, Bluecher once more returned and afterward worked as a vilinge

a three-year course for teachers Harbin Penang

Hongkong Rangoon when he led a strike in an iron to Moscow, but soon was made com- teacher.

Foreign Exchange and General. Dana- foundry,

he joined the revolutionary mander in the Far East when Jopan- During the World War Loktlonov Deposits received for one year or shorter

ing business transacted.

Current Accounts opened and Pixeɑ movement.

He was arrested frequently and situation critical.

ese invasion of Manchuria made the spent four years at the front as a exiled, met Lenin when a delegate

common soldier, but after the Feb- periods at retes which will be quoted RECOGNIZED AS STRATEGIST ruary revolution the soldiers elected underlakus tutor & Trustee budna

"The Bank's Head Office in London to the Stockholm Congress of World

Shaposhnikov, chief of the gen him vice commander of the regiment and aldims recovery of British Insom Revolutionaries. He became a fa- vourite of Lonin, who ordered is eral staff, commander of the first and secretary of the regiment com-Tex syrpaid, on ferme which may be assignment to important party work. rank, is known as one of the oldest mitice. The close of the civil war fortained at any of the Agencies &

"KNOWN AS TACTICIAN commanders, a brillant operative found him a brigadier general.

Hia Branches,

D. J. "GILMORE, During the civil war which fol- worker and an outstanding scien- most notable achievement was, with

Acting Manager. 2,200 men against 4,500, the October revolution of that in the military field.

to stop! Hongkong, 1st June, 1938.

mines, and Was

lowed

,

to Moscow In

Hamburg

Singapore Bilawa

Saurabaya

JOHONE KODE

Talping Tientsin Tongkah

Klang Koba

Kuala

1

Lumpur Kuching Madras Manila

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Peiping

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CONFU **BHUTAN CHITRAL *BEHAR

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+

Destination

B'bay, M'meilles, Havre, L’don, Hull, H'burg, R'dam & A'werp. Bombay, Marseilles & London Straits, Colombo, B'bay

Korachi.

Marseilles & London.

&

D'biy, M'scilles, Havre, L’don, Hull, H'bg, A'dam & A'werp, Marseilles & London.

B'bay, M'schiles, Havre, L'don, Hull, H'burg, H’dam & A'werp, Marseilles & London.

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