1938-03-15 — Page 2

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Today we give you news from London Shows: during the week there will be by Paris Shows; to be followed expert and up-to-the-minute news from the the usual competent fashion summary of styles that will have come to stay.

THE London dress dis- signers have done it again. Put on a show for American buyers that real-

expresses London, and is not a garbled version of Paris or New York fashion! -a show that is conditioned by typical English life and custom.

Will London dress shows ever. make international "news" in .the Rense that Paris haute couture makes news? It seems doubtful, because the English attitude to clothes is so unsen- sational.

An Englishwoman is still considered well dressed only if she does not attract too much attention and if her clothes are impeccably suited to the occa- 'sion, In other words, her clothes are influenced by those of the Englishman: who, as film everybody knows, even stars and the French, is the best dressed person in the world.

Functionalism

Thus, in English clothes you would expect to find functional- ism and superb craftsman- ship. At the London Fashion Group dress show you find both in clothes that are classic in the best sense by reason of their fitness for purpose and their beautiful tailoring. The classic suits by Lachasse, for example, are marked by ex- quisite detail rather than sen- sational style.

For instance, one perfectly, simple tan suit of theirs had the new skirt, gored in narrow straight sections almost giving a look of wide stripes: this effect was repeated in the pale blue jacket by insetting narrow strips of the ten colour. By the way, a pale version of Lon- don tan allied to pale blue seems a colour contrast to indulge in this spring.

Trends or Tailoring

woman -emerge:-

CONVERSATION

PIECE

1938

Do not, therefore, let US speak too much of trends, but rather of tailored suits. From the point of view of the ordinary

tweeds for the serious business The casual box jacket, newly Eton Girls fashion points two

become a tradition, is often

of life, can go crazy when work- more suitable for stout and The other tailored line that ing out games kit. This is where The classic tailored suit is no skinny alike: and in this show is good deal shown in we could lead the world. So longer limited to a straight it is given its full value.. The Busvine's collection is the Eton Tinling makes a summer golf skirt with pleats and a jacket skirt made in many sections is jacket motif; short monkey suit (sketched) of black linen with big revers. An alterna- functional because it keeps its jacket worn over men's suiting with bloomer plus fours in a tive has come to stay: the shape.

skirt, and a ruffled white blouse, brilliant London Transport linen gored skirt and box jacket.

Amusing for the very young print: black stockings, and large How easy to wear and charm and slim. This is a good thing, because ing is Digby Morton's blue and woman who brown check box jacket over a it is not every looks her best in classic sky blue suit (shown at left of tailored suit, for which broad sketch): how distinguished That brings us to the sports Where is the serene elegance shoulders and a straight back Busvine's dusky blue swagger clothes. English designers, who of the little dark draped dresses are essentials.

jacket over its matching dress. must be sober when designing from Paris? It is curious, but,

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boat-like white shoes.

Afternoon Attempts

in spite of the hierarchy of bridge-playing dowagers, our afternoon clothes are not too hot.

May be this is because many Englishwomen who lead fashion step straight out of tweeds into tea gowns or trousers. The same goes for afternoon hats. Ange Thanrup, who usually makes some of the most wearable hats in London, hoped to beguite us press girls with enormous stiffened veils and vast felt clover leaves. But no, Many trimmings do not make a win- ner. On the other hand, the simple felts, flat or rolled up, shown with many of the suits were delicious..

Edwardian Evening

ern

But the London designers .should come into their own with evening dresses. Where' but in this country is the wearing of evening dress so part and parcel of our existence? Per haps it is because of our north- romanticism that every Cinderella can become a princess after dark. "Anyway, from diplomats' wives to domestic workers most women own 11 "low-necked" evening frock. From the ones shown at the Fashion Group, it seems that .Ladies are to be in fashion again. Almost all the evening dresses were both ladylike and elegant, and made simpering prettiness and Hollywood allure seem alike a little naive.

Victor Stiebel's beautiful dark-brown dress fits heart- shaped neckline veiled by net) that Angrave has sketched (right) shows this new dignity: so does Motley's really divine Greek dress (shown on the re- clining figure). This is in dark green satin, all pleated.

Keep Off, Young Man

There was also a series of

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, TUESDAY, MARCH 15, 1983.

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vast clumps of passion flowers, popples and other herbaceous plants on the bosom. These seemed more suitable for danc- ing the quadrille than the

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After many years of hearing" that teagowns are coming in, there does now seem to be a movement for moving into some- thing informal for country tea time and dinner at home; Lydia Moss gives expression to this tendency with her series of Huffy lace-trimmed trailers, and Elizabethan impressive

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