1938-03-15 — Page 14

Today we give you news from London Shows: during the week there will be expert and up-to-the-minute news from the Paris Shows; to be followed by the usual competent fashion summary of styles that will have come to stay.

THE London dress de-

THE

signers have done it again. Put on a show for American buyers that real- ly expresses London, and is not a garbled version of Paris or New York fashion!

a show that is conditioned by typical English life and

custom.

1

Will London dress shows ever make International "news" in the sense that Paris haute couture makes news? It seems doubtful, because the English attitude to clothes is so unsen- sational.

An Englishwoman is still considered well dressed only if she does not attract too much attention and if her clothes arc impeccably suited to the occa- alon In other words, her clothes are influenced by those of the Englishman: who, as everybody knows, even Blm stars and the French, is the best dressed person in the world.

Functionalism

Thus, in English clothes you would expect to find functional-' ist and superb craftsman- ship. At the London Fashion Group dress show you find both in clothes that are classic in the best sense by reason of their fitness for purpose and their beautiful talloring. The classic suits by Lachasse, for example, are marked by ex- quisite detail rather than sen- sational style.

For instance, one perfectly simple tan suit of theirs had the new skirt, gored in narrow straight sections almost giving a look of wide stripes: this effect was repeated in the palc blue jacket by insetting narrow strips of the ten colour. By the way, a pale version of Lon- don tan allied to pale blue seems a colour contrast to indulge in this spring.

Trends or Tailoring

Do not, therefore, let us speak too much of trends, but rather of bailored suits. From the point of view of the ordinary Woman two fashion points

emerge:

CONVERSATION

PIECE 1938

2

דור

In spite of the hierarchy of bridge-playing dowagers, our afternoon clothes are not too hot.

May be this is because many Englishwomen who lead fashion step straight out of tweeds into tea gowns or trousers. The same goca for afternoon hats. Ange Thaarup, who usually makes some of the most wearable huta in London, hoped to beguile us, press girls with enormous stiffened voils and vast felt clover leaves. But no. Many trimmings do not make a win- ner, On the other hand, the simple felts, flat or rolled up, shown with many of the suits were delicious. Edwardian Evening

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But the London designers should come into their own with evening dresses. Where but in this country is the wearing of evening dress so part and parcel of our existence? Per haps it is because of our north- ern romanticism that every Cinderella can become a princess after dark, Anyway, from diplomats' wives to domestic. workers most women own a "low-necked" evening frock. From the ones shown at the Fashion Group, it seems that Ladies are to be in fashion again. Almost all the evening dresses were both ladylike and elegant, and made simpering prettiness and Hollywood allure. seem alike a little naive.

The casual box jacket, newly Eton Girls

tweeds for the serious business become a tradition, is often

of life, can go crazy when work more suitable for stout and The other tailored line that ing out games kit. This is where The classic tailored suit is no skinny alike: and in this show is good deal shown in we could lead the world. So longer limited to a straight it is given its full value. The Busvine's collection is the Eton Tinding makes a summer golf -skirt-with-pleats and a jacket skirt made in many sections is jacket motif; short monkey suit (sketched) of black linen with big revers. An alterna- functional because it keeps its Jacket worn over men's suiting with bloomer plus fours in a tive has come to stay: the shape.

skirt, and a ruffled white blouse, brilliant London Transport linen gored skirt and box jacket.

and slim. Amusing for the very young print: black stockings, and large

boat-like white shoes. Afternoon Attempts

How easy to wear and charm- This is a good thing, because ing is Digby Morton's blue and it is not every woman who brown check box jacket over a Sports looks her best in a classic sky blue suit (shown at left of tailored suit, for which broad sketch):

how distinguished That brings us to the sports Where is the serene elegance shoulders and a straight back Busvine's dusky blue swagger clothes. English designers, who of the little dark draped dresses are essentials,

jacket over its matching dress. must be sober when designing from Paris? It is curious, but,

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Victor Stiebel's beautiful dark-brown dress (its heart- shaped neckline veiled by net) that Angrave has sketched (right) shows this new dignity: so does Motley's really divine Greek dress (shown on the re- clining figure). This is in dark green satin, all pleated.

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There was also a series of satin dresses by Stiebel with vast clumps of passion flowers, poppies and other herbaceous plants on the bosom. These seemed more suitable for danc- ing the quadrille than the rumba, but were certainly thought-provoking.

After many years of hearing that teagowns are coming in, there does now seem to be a movement for moving into some- time and dinner at home; Lydia thing informal for country tea Moss gives expression to this tendency with her series of fluffy lace-trimmed trailers, and one impressive Elizabethan gown of quilted crimson satin. Very glamorous for the bou- doir-minded,

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