1938-01-13 — Page 18

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, Thursday, JanUARY 18, 1938.

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T

This Year they may

HERE have been six

expeditions to Mount Everest, and there is to be a seventh this year.

In 1924 Brigadier E. F.. Norton climbing alone, reached 28,100 feet, less than 1,000 feet from the summit. In 1933 three climbers reached the same elevation.

In 1936 an expedition, en- riched by the accumulated experience of five previous expeditions, got no higher than 22,860 feet; which was reached in 1921 by the first expedition of all

And the reacen, plain enough, from Mr. Hugh Ruttledge's.ro- cently published book" Everest: The Unanished Adventure"

Hongkong Hotel (Hodder and Stoughton, 255.) is

Garage

-the weather,

Altitude and its effcels on mind and body, acclimatisation, do- terloration, the dimeulty of the mountain, which is now known to Stubbs Road be considerable at 20,000 feet. play

Showroom

Tel. 27778/9

DEATH

REID-On the 12th. January, 1938, at his residence, 231, Niuhsdale Read, Pollokshields, Glasgow,

James Rold. Aged 60 years. Late Manager of The Talkoo Dockyard & Engineering Co., Hongkong.

The

Hongkong Telegraph.

THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 1038,

no minor parts, but the weather. reserves to itself the casting vote of failure or success.

It cannot be dissociated for a single moment from the Everest adventure, and it is the essential

mot of this book, running through the narrative in a menac ing undercurrent of wind, cold, snowfall and avalanche.

A

S Mr. Ruttledge points aut, the allure of 1036 should not be stig- matised as ignominious; no failure is where the best that can be dono has been done, and his book pro- vides a convincing answer to self- critica of appointed

** another fallure."

To be beaten on Everest is no disgrace; indeed, there must be many, among them the members of the 1936 expedition, who cherish

something left against which the brute force and mechanisms of this material age cannot prevall. and which in the end devolves on human skill and human spirit. others are inspired by this book, Such reflections and many

TRIBUTE TO COURAGE a secret gladness that there is

Was

more

The world will pay tribute to-day to seven brave men, who have died in the interests of science and progress-the crew of the Samoan Clipper, formerly the Hongkong Clipper, which made avlation history by flying the Pacific and linking this Colony with the Pan-American trans-ocean system. The plane to accomplish even distinguished work. Piloted by the veteran Edwin Musick, it linked California with Auckland New Zealand, and Musick, the chief pilot, mapped a pioneer's course across thousands of miles of the Pacific to extend the field of Pan-American Corporation's enterprise and speed communi- cation with another continent.

and a wealth of technical detall, medical, physiological and mech- anical, merely serves to illuminate still more the ultimate spirit and

purpose behind an achievement

which is useless from a material-

It's standpoint.

To climb Everest is a pilgrimage, tat and spiritual power that has a practical expression of the men- raised man to a footing above the

beasta.

S

UCH a theme demands the best, and Mr. Rutt- ledge has given of his best in a beautifully produced and illustrated volume in which Mr. Michael Spender's large-scale map deserves special commendation.

An official account is necessarily documentary, and nearly half the book is devoted to practical and scientiac matters such as weather, medicine. physiology and wireless, all of which have a bearing on the expedition and which should be

of all mishaps to an aeroplane, j apparently enveloped the ma-

CONQUER

EVEREST

"The Tunca" waika Copyright,

World's highest mountain photographed from the aeroplane which flew over it during the Everest fight expedition. Shadows were caused by the plane's wing struts.

by F. S. Smythe,

one of the world's greatest mountaineers, and author of several books on the high hiţis. Was in Everest expeditions of 1933 and 1937.

studied if the problems under- lying Everest are to be understood. Yet in his 147 pages of personal narrative, Mr. Ruttledge conveys to the reader with a rare skill the alms and aspirations, the human strengths and weaknesses inherent In all adventure when men are tried to the uttermost of their mental and physical capacities.

Contrast is an essential condi- Lion

To of human happiness, appreciate comfort ww must endure discomfort; safety is a poor thing to him who has never known danger. Perhaps this 18 one reason why men climb moun- tains.

19

From the warm, languorous plains of India to the bitter wind-

Everest swept ridges of lengthy mental as well as physical stride, and Mr. Ruttledge, a good psychologist, as all leaders must be, gives an illuminating picture of, widely diverso conditions, physical and human,

He is nover-falling in his appreciation of those who by thought or deed supported him, and he writes: ".

"... the more quixotle the venture. the more men have received the priceless loyalty and inspiration of women."

is Indeed a fact that women understand -better than men the motives and Ideals underlying these

"tiseicas " expeditions to Mount Everest.

-Mr-Ruttledge-makes-a-strong- case for a party large enough for reserves in the event of initial failure or illness, yet there are many who believe that success is inore likely to be achieved by a small, iightly-laden expedition, quick to seize its opportunities and Duychologically homogeneous, and that ouch advantages outweigh the disadvantages he mentions.

Then there is also the question of

Transatlantic Bird Flights

Test flights went smoothly. chine. She dived into the sea. THE crossing of the Atlantic by berland, were recovered, three in The world of aviation, always it seems, close to the point for which she was heading, limping joptimistic, never discouraged by

on three engines. disaster and the sudden death of

There is now no doubt that

have

to

́employing oxygen, set forward by Dr. C. B. Warren, who was untiring In physiological research. In theory Everest can be easlly and safely cilmbed with un oxygen apparatus, but in practice there are gravo dia- advantages and dangers.

There are many who believe, and I am one of them, that Evereat can be climbed, and most safely climbed, without oxygen and that Nature has set no insuperable obstacle.

Mr. Ruttledge is rightly insle- tent on the value of mountaineer- Ing experience, The teamI of Olympic athletes advocated by the member of a former expedition would be utterly wasted on Everest. Even years of climbing experience are useless to him who has never learned to walk uphill properly.

Economy of effort and rhyth- mical movement are the ̄ ̄ ̄ ̄Brat essentials in climbing at high altitudes, and allled to these a harmony of mind and spirit which Is only gained through experience.

T

Во

HE 1038 expedition will

to Evarest with. much valuable know- It will ledge at its disposal. know that to attempt to reach the North Col during the monsoon acason is suicidal.

For the experiences of Mr. E. E. Shipton's reconnaissance party in 1035 and the avalanche which nearly overwhelmed him and Mr.

P. Wyn Harris in 1936 are abun- dant proofs that the snow is vorY dangerous when the humid warm airs from the south reach the

its greatest pilots, watched the all her crew perished. No head. that certain frail feathered creatures able is the fight in Denmark and points to high winds and intense

oil

take this

Bilke Tho weather MAY

be

Dying-boats has been much in Newfoundland, one in Labrador, and the public eye, and the performances one in Davis Strait, west of Green- of Cambria, Caledonia, and Cupper lond. excite admiration on all aldes, The Two black-headed gulls marked in

mountain, the Atlantic-one average speed of about 150 miles on Germany crossed

Whether or not the summit can hour leaves one breathless,

Mexico and the other to the Bar- It may come to many as a surprise bados. Perhaps even more remark- be reached after the monsoon is doubtful. The available evidence of a gull-billed tern carried to suc

to succeBG

which a similar

was marked recovered in Barbados. A spoon-bill cold, whilst the days are danger- calm courage of Musick and his stone will mark their resting-st-to-west flight.

Thus in December of 1927 a large and a heron ringed in Holland, a ously short in Beptember and

reached Newfound-black-headed gull from Britain and October, companions with

place, no flowers deck their flock of lanwings Ordinarily, the a scoter from satisfaction

On Everest no two seasons are land tro

Iceland found their Europe. from grave. Somewhere, under the lapwing is unknown In America, and way as far as the Azores, and admiration. The Samoan

comparatively warm and wind- slick, their bodies

btedly are the

came from America to Europe Britas Clipper did all that was expected washed by the sea. And that is had been ringed as a chick in Cum-

less, as it was in 1936, with an in- for Included one which

possible mantle of snow on the

of her.

West-to-east crossings are not in mountain and an early monsoon. Her engines never in tradition, for these gallant beriand. After reaching Newfound

land they spread farther west Into frequent. A few marking records or it may be windy and intensely faltered. The southern Pacifle gentlemen want no better the mainland of Ame

reveal that Arctic terns breeding on cold. America. The

distance covered by the flock the eastern shores of North 4 of windless days between the wrath- Or, for once, there may be a few cross to the shores of was conquered. But conquest grave,

was some 2,200 miles, and was prob- commonly

Africn. From time to ful winds and the coming of the Europe and was not achieved without cost. We wish to

accomplished in 24 hours, at an ably ор

average speed of 92 miles an hour time there are rare vagrants which, monsoon. Then, and only then, is It was on her first "pay load" portunity of expressing a hum- There was a strong easterly wind especially in time of very severe the summit likely to be reached.

blowing

on the occasion, almost weather, find a hospice in our worm- ble word of appreciation for the directly behind the birds. The er ellmé. flight from Californa that the work these men have done, and Meteorological Offee estimated the One example was recorded in velocity of the wind at about 66 Orkney lost spring, when an Ameri- Samoan Clipper developed en- for what their comrades will mph. at 1,000 feet.

can yellow-billed cuckoo arrived in gine trouble. Something went continue to do, for these aro is possible that the flock was an exhausted condition. There are alming for Ireland there is regular about a dozen records for this bird

'NDETERRED by dis- wrong with the oil feed in one souls of vision who help to break migration of lapwings from both the In Britain, and there is no doubt that

asters on Nanga Parbat. Continent and Britain into Ireland-it crossed the Atlantic, almost cer- Inhabitant

they are ready to offer of her four molors, and the down international barriers and but overshol the mark owing to the tainly unaided. It is an

their all, and their greatest ambi- plane's radio operator called lead on towards the elimination strong tall wind. Launched upon the of North America and Canada.

There is a regular fight from Lion is to pitch & camp higher Atlantic, they carried on and com- of frontiers by sclérice and high | ploted a wonderful flight.

Greenland and Iceland both to the than ever before on the inhospit- Pagopago and informed that

south-east and to the Landing on Ships.

These are established air station that the Clipper would courage.

and Ruttladge has paid them many and ost of cath in the autumn

rent tributes. turn back. After that, silenco.

Other birds such as rooks have which traverse these great been seen as far out as 300 miles highways reach our shares. Thus Even the exports can only

Junior Flight Officer P. S. Blank from the coast of Ireland, no doubt the knot and the northern golden

attempting conjecture what happened next.

a crossing. But in all plover come in enormous numbers, Forced into an emergency land-

cases recorded the flocks have either many of them arriving as early as turned in the course or have perished the beginning of August. ing, it appears, the Clipper'n

in the waves. They have been Wigeon, which are wild duck and known also to land in a completely breed in the north of Iceland, ủy| skipper decided to let go

exhausted condition on the deck of both south-eastwards to Britain and the Continent and south-westwards patrol to lighten the ship. There The memory of the deeds of paming ships.

Other successful filers have been to the coasts of Canada and North

Atlantic in 2....thus ; may have been an explosion. In such as these will be an inspira-kittiwakes and black-headed gulle. America. The

Certain kiltiwake nestlings ringed on traversed daily in the reasons: ofi any event, fire, the most dreaded tion to other generations.

| the Farne Islands, ...oft Northum☺ migration...

E. L.M.

his

Captain Edwin Muick First Officer C. G, Sellers

Navigator F. J. McLean First Engineer J. W. Bückrod Assistant Engineer J. A. Brooks Radio Operator T. 3. Findlay

The porters. I have left them to the end, for, like the weather, they, have a Arst and last say on Everest. Buccessive expeditions have trained a magnificent body of men.

19

U

west. | abio slabs at nearly 28,000 feet. Mr..

Feng birds

aerial

There could be no happier end- to the Everest saga than that one of these men should stand be-- side the employers he has served so faithfully and well on the highest. point of the world.

•To-day's Thought" To me high mountains are a a fealing, but theƑhim⋅ of. human cities tortura.

BYRON,