1937-12-11 — Page 34

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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 11, 1937.

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The

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M.

ROBERT LYND'S SATURDAY ESSAY

P.s have been com-.

The Fish Always Tastes

The Same

the thought of the dropped jaws in the past seem to have enjoyed of the diners at sight of their their meals as a rule. If I knew unspeakable

and uneatable 28 much about diaries and diarists as Lord Ponsonby, I

dishes.

Why, for example, except in might be able to recall some coin-

COMPLAINTS against order to torture gourmets, do plaints about cooking. from the food may be divided cooks bent and carve boiled cab writings of the famous dead. As plaining of the food

into two classes. First, we may bage into those loathsome trian- it is, I think of most of the eat- that is served to dislike the food itself whether gles, the very look of which ers of the past as cheerful, ra- them in the House of Com- it is well cooked or not, as many makes one feel that one is no venous fellows who simply did mons. They have been com- people dislike cod, artichokes greatplaining in particular of and blanc-mange. amount of imaginative power to the fish which "always looks

STUDY IN PREPAREDNESS

Reginald Dixon.

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 11, 1937...

Jay Wilbur's Orch.

Wilbur's Orch.

Jay Wilbur's Orch.

It required no very

experience on Thursday night something of the sensation of and tastes the same."

I do not know how far this

9109-fa a little French Casino ....Primo Scala Accordian Band, hopelessness and helplessness

Will you remember ("Maytimo").

9110-Tho Merry-Go-Round broke down

not know what it was to be scr- longer hungry?

ved with a tough steak or under- Many people, reduced by ex- done mutton or a section of sal-

are con-

This is

mon that had been boiled and 21 complaint only perience to despair,

The vineed that there is no other way life, however.

evening for a reboiled every against

of cooking and serving cabbage. week. other sort of complaints

are

which must be the lot of solis true of fish in the House of more serious. These occur when Yet the cabbage is an honest

A water-logged

It is true that the proverb

many thousands of people lo- day, and to-morrow, who are in Commons, but it is true of fish food that we should enjoy in its and eatable vegetable, even after

Even so, I doubt whether any Primo Scala Accordian Band. danger of bombing from the air in a good many places outside perfect state has been converted the first flush of its spring tend- "God sends meat, but the Devil or some form of attack from the House of Commons. It is into dull or repellent dish that erness, and I for one maintain sends cooks," is a fairly old one. previous generation contained .. Len Greenland or sca.

Hongkong's rat certainly true of the fish in the takes away the appetite and that a well-cooked cabbage is

SD many people who grumble effective "black-out" was more railway dining-cars on one or leaves in its place only indigna. preferable to

about food as our own. than a valuable test of arphase of our defences. It was a prac- Lical lesson for thousands in the necessity of co-operation in times of emergency. The drone

Where are you?

9112-Mclodies of the Month.

9128-Moon at Sea--Fox Trot

Let us be sweethearts over again.

9132 When the Harvest Moon is Shining In an Old Cathedral Town.

No. 6

Billy Cotton's Orch.

. Joc Peterson,

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THE

"TELEGRAPHS"

EVERYWHERE

of

two lines that I could name.

tion or despair.

It is true that the cook is not It has often struck me that the cooks in dining-cars must always to blame for this. Some-

have some special process for times the damage is done before

cauliflower.

When the diaries of men now

BUT, if one is in a com- living are ultimately published plaining mood, one can I am sure they will teem with an invisible aircraft, the extracting the flavour from fish the food reaches the kitchen. find a good many things to com- references to fish, vegetables

Saintsbury complained stabbing fingers of the search- before serving it. do not

I

some plain about besides cabbage, and everything else that the lights, and crawling, dim-lit mind this so much when the years ago that sausages were The beef, for example, that by hand of man-or woinan-can traffic and the up-turned faces of tens of thousands of people, fish is cod, for cod seems to me no longer what they used to be, some miracle has been made as spoil by cookery. I wish I could who unconsciously spoke in to have no flavour that is worth and, undoubtedly,-a-good-many-insipid-as-the-gravy-that-is-sur-_get_a_peep into one of these sausages are not. Nor do I ved with it; the sweetbreads diaries, I am sure it would con- think that the ordinary smoked that have been ingeniously con- tain bitter accounts of the soggy haddock or kipper compares in verted into a dish of gutta- scrambled eggs served at the kipper of thirty or forty years which an flavour with the haddock or percha; the Lancashire hotpot in hotel breakfast, of the leathery

whispers, lent a somewhat dise preserving. But why make the

turbing air of realism to the

choicer fishes taste like cod that experiment. The nervous ex- citement of the crowd could be has lost what wretched flavour

gensed. What would have hapit once possessed? This is one pened in Nathan Road at 10 of the mysteries of travel.

p.m. if someone had set off a giant firecracker in the middl

of the thoroughfare? Or even series of lectures at the China little one? Panic, very likely-Fleet Club on Monday last many

I might have been shortlived: will probably have drafted, in

cica.

ago.

from the cold

assortment of bare tongue served bones flaunt it among the pota- buffet at lunch, of the tinned toes in faintly-tinted water; and spinach that appeared on the -worst crime of all, perhaps table at dinner, of the white ON the whole, however, the apple-tart in which the crust coffee in which fragments of the it is not, the deterio has been cooked separately from skin of milk floated about like

there

Rhine maidens.

IF women loved food as

but there was no question of the their own minde, tentative general mass of the people be-schemes for the organisation of ration of the food itself that the fruit. There is nothing to ing ripe for it. How much more their office staffs to meet the makes philosophers mourn, but dangerous the situation, how emergency of bombing or gas

compare with the hideousness of much greater the risk of attack.

The Government ob- the way in which it is prepared a triangle of boiled cabbage ex- stampede, had the air raid viously has some plan in mind in too many hotel kitchens and cept the hideousness of a trian-

men do, the deplorable alarm been a reality. From this whereby heads of firms and restaurant kitchens. incident the observant will have their subordinates will organise

gle of bogus apple-tart.

state of affairs that produces learned, then, the desirability units and educate staffs in the There are, everyone will agree, Sometimes, when I am faced these complaints could, of course, of drilling the community in the work to be done to combat fire plenty of first-class hotels and with one of these dishes, I won- never have arisen. For, whore- steps to be taken in emergen and poison fumes during the restaurants; but

duy.

are der whether men of other ages as a man has the courage to com- The plan will be doubly The disciplining of crowds is valuable if it envisages some others in which I sometimes had as much to complain about plain about food only to his simplified if there is some cer-Hort of instruction to the Chin- think the cooks must be Sadists, at table as we have. Most of friends or in the secrecy of a ese community which can be taking a malevolent delight in the people who wrote about food diary, a woman equally addicted tainty that in moments of

passed on to the mass of the stress they will react in a pre- dictable fashion. By training people and applied by night.

Once again it is as well to re- the populace, it should be pos-mind the public that although sible to make any mass move these precautions are aimed at ment almost automatic. If men and women are drilled in an no immediate threat, they are |directed against a very definite appointed task, they will at-

danger. Because the emergency tempt to carry it out even in an extremity of fear. It has be-has not arrived in the past is no ехсиве for denying its come a matter of habit, a sort

existence. Procrastination of reflex action. It is when a crowd has no object in view such a mutter cannot be con- except blind fight and a wild doned. It is the duty of every desire to find a hole to hide in intelligent citizen to exert him- the

in

BULLS AND INNERS

0 0

From the Office Butts

Christmas Hampers, This is A Leopard may not be able sort of obstacle we nre to change his spots, but this is

that it becomes ungovernable. self to help any precautionary always able to surmount. That is panic. To prevent such scheme which the Government

口 O

the season when Yaumati Cat is liable to become number-one

口口

to food would send the dishes back to the kitchen till she got something that was not only eat- able but agrecable to the palate and the eye.

Since women refuse to. také a in food, how- proper Intereat ever, the next best thing is for the grumblers to have the M.P.8 on their side M.P.a are the men who

above all others get things done; and, if M.P.a be gin to think seriously about food, a contingency, it would seem introduces to work as smoothly

Lugard Rond seemed to be a fox! necessary to organise some sys-au possible. Preparedness en-

we may see before long revolu- tom of training, to adopt some talle precautions, and unless popular point of vantage when

are systematically and

tionary changes in the kitchen. well-conceived plan of action in these which every member of the conscientiously studied and per- the lights were out. We ob

After all, several of them have community will have some part, fected, their application will not served quite a lot ourselves.

already noticed that the fish al- though it bo nothing more than meet with the success

There will be some oxcuse for

ways tastes the same. That is going home by the quickest moans protection. This is a time for study. The application route.

a promising beginning. of the knowledge to be gained blue noses this winter, with conl Representatives of the gen-may never be required, but at a dollar-fifty per scuttle.

Not that I care much about eral nublic have already been least Hongkong will be the introduced

We think it about time that Out" a contemporary states "It food myself; but I like grumb- to the practical richer for the peace of mind methods of combatting gas and which comes with the assurance the Hongkong Golf Club an- may be possible to restrict the ling about it. And how some of the consequences of bombing. that everything possible hasnounced what exactly is to be beams by means of funnela Of the saveral hundreds of men been done to ensure the security bogey for feminine fashion in round the lamps. Why not blow those chefs play up to my weak-

them out? who attended the first ofa of the people.

that

shorts.

D

口

We understand that at one! "Black-Out" party, a lady kissed her husband for five minutes without discovering it.

M ( Commenting on the "Black-

nCraf

$