1937-08-17 — Page 2

A

The JUMPER Comes of Age

It's altered in style a

bit since the 1916 days

N important coming- of-age takes place this that of the year jumper (jumper blouse it was first called).

The name itself has a longer history in connection with dress: in the middle of last century it wns used to describe a loose outer jacket or shirt worn by sailors. Its technical definition "A as a woman's garment is:

blouse loose-fitting fastenings, worn over the rest of the dress, not tucked in at the waist."

Some were Smocked

without

THE first Jumpers to which

THE

this defnition was applied were entirely different from the high- walsted, well-fitting models of re- cent years. They were fore-runners of the long-waisted style which was clothes fashionable for women's

immediately after the war.

The earliest Jumpers were remi- niscent of smocks. They came fr

below the waist and were cut with Some good deal of fulness. models had a small yoke, and others were smacked in coarse, brightly coloured thread.

At first crepe de Chine, which had been the favourite blouse material but il for some years, was used, scarcity of this caused other fabrics to be employed, so that garment became even more novelty.

Designers Inspired

the new

of

11

DESIGNERS were delighted

to find in those years of economy and severity in dress a new vehicle for their inspiration, and many new styles of jumper rapidly appeared.

Necks were either square or round- ed, and formed a contrast to the

of

other type shirt pattern-the blouse most popular at the time.

Many models were not unlike the colours Dark present-day tunics. were favoured, hand embroidery of the peasant type was used, and the licias were often elaborately orna- was to mented. A popular Idea

attach a deep hem of gally printed material to the edge of a plain- coloured jumper.

It was a Reform

THE Jumper was not only an only ou

the new vogue for loose-Atting gar-: ments.

Freedom of movement was valued more than the moulded line, and the tightly corseted waist was no longer admired. The jumper was some- thing more than a fashion, it was n reform, and, us most reforms do, it went to extremes.

seem

Now that the higher waist-line and the more definite silhouette have' returned, the first jumpers more extravagant than ever, but the women of to-day owe one thing to the designers of 1910-now that the Vic- close-fitting Edwardian and torlan fashions have been revived they are no longer attended by the discomfort which was once thought essential to their success,

Hair Combs

Again

MANY of the new hairdressing

styles which show long rolls of hair, curving around the head, at the back and sides are often very youth- ful and becoming, but they re sometimes rather difficult to keep in

place.

You will find it much less difficult, however, if you make use of the modern version of the old-fashioned hair combs.

The new ones are fine and small and curved to the head. Two of them will keep your sido curls high and nicely rolled as you could possibly destro.

na

WHAT

YOU

NEED

Sozs. Patons and Baldwins' "Azalea" wool (white).

1 pair No. 11 needles.

B buttons.

Felt in shades of purple, puce, cerise, mustard, blue and green,

1 stein embroidery wool in black.

I skein embroidery wool in green.

Felt for trimming is obtainable at the embroidery counter of most

Glores.

MEASUREMENTS

Length of jacket from underarm, 10ins.

Length of jacket from shoulder to bottom of peak, 18ins,

Length of sleeves from underarm, 18ins.

To ft 32in.-34in. bust.

Tension: 0% stitches to 1 inch; 14 rows to 1 inch.

CAS

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAFII, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 1987.

HOW TO MAKE THE $1 TIFFINS

JUMPER SHOWN IN

NEXT COLUMN

THE FRONTS

AST on 2 stitches. Knit into the back of there. Knit twice into both

stitches.

Next row: Knit, knitting twice into 2nd, and 2nd last stitches. Next row: Kalt, knitting twice into the 2nd last stitch. Repeat the last two rows until the siltches number 26.

Next row: Cast on 22 stitches. Knit into the back of these and across the needle.

Next row: Knit twice Into the 2nd stitch continue to end. Next row: Knit.

Repeat last two rows 7 times.

Continue without further increasing until the rows from the cast-on stitches number 42. At the opposite side from the shaped side knit twice Into the 2nd last stitch.

Repeat the increasing at this end every 10th row until there are a Increasings. Continue until the work measures 10 Inches from the cast-on stitches.

Next row: At the same end as the 8 incrensinita, enst off 12 stitches for the armhole, and continue the shaping by knitting 2 tog. at this end very 4th row 3 times.

To shape for the rever, at the 4th row from the cast-off stitches, and on the opposite side, knit 10. Knit twice into the next stitch, and continue to end. Repent the increasing at this point every ath row until there are 10 Increasings. When 72 rown after the armhole cast-off stitches have Continue been knitted, cast off 30 stitches of the centre front for the rever. to end.

Knit 20 rows with this number of stitches.

Next row: At the armhole end, cast off 10 stitches. Knit to end, Next row: Knit.

Repeat last two rows and east off.

THE BACK

Cast on 00 stitches, knit into the back of each stitch. Knit 32 rows Increase 1 stitch each end of the next and every 10th row until the work measures 10 inches.

Cust of 19 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows and continue without further decreasing until the work measures 7 inches from the cast-off stitches,

Cast off stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and cast off.

THE SLEEVE

Cast on 50 stitches. Knit into the back of each stitch, init 4 inches, Increase stitch at each end of the next and every succeeding 10th row unt! there are 17 Incrensings. When the work measures 10 inches cast of 12 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows.

Decrease stitch each end of every 10th row 5 times, and when 70 rows from the cast-off stitches are knitter, cast off 18 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Knit the remaining 20 siltches for 201 rows, Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next & rows. Cast off.

TO MAKE UP

Press all the pieces on the wrong side with a hot iron and dump cloth. Join the shoulder seams. Starting from the 15th cast-off stitch of the rever. pick up the stitches round the neck line to the 15th stitch on the other side. Knit 2 rows and cast off.

Pick up the 14 stitches down the edge of the collar. Knit 2 rows garter and east off.

Right side edge:

BUTTONHOLES

Starting from the bottom, pick up the stitches up

the frunk, taking care to get a neat effect when the rever turns back, Knit

one row.

Knit 4, repeat from until there Next row: Knit 2. *Cast off are 8 buttonholes. Kall to end.

Next row: Cast on 4 stitches where cast-off stitches are, Next row: Knit into the back of the east-on stitches: knit I row and

Left side edge: rows garter and cast off.

east off,

Flek up the stitches as on the right side. Knit 5

Join the sleeves seams and the top of the sleeve to form a "heel." Put in the sleeves seam to seam-they fit exactly. Suftening of tallors' canvas to fit can be sewn round the top of the sleeve if so desired.

If covered buttons are preferred, east on 20 stitches, kolt in stocking stitch for 10 inches. Cover with the wrong side of the knitting showing. FLOWERS

Cut the pieces of felt into circles 4 inch diameter. Sew by using Sew in clusters. Finish black wool and catch through the centre of each.

Knit into the back of all the cast-on stitches. Slip the first and puri by making "leaves" in lazy daisy stitch in bright green, or if embroidery

is desired, small flowers in lazy-dalsy stitch are effective. the Inst stitch in every row.

Adopt the KLEENEX HABIT!

When sniffles start, put asido handkerchiefs and adopt tho Kloonox Habit1 Using Kloonox Tissuos instead of handkerchiefs sayos nosos, savos monoy. What's moro, Kloonex fonds to rotain germs, thus chocks colds from spreading through your family. Simply use oach tissue just once- then destroy, germs and all. Uso Kleonex for romoving cosmetics, too-to apply powder and rouge-

KEIP KLEENIX IN EVERY KOOM SAVES STEPS — TIME - MONEY In the nursery-As bib-to pat

on baby's powder to dust and polish And beap in the car, to ips hands, windshield sad grwARY apotu.

The patented open- Ing at the bos pre vents waste. Full one so at a time.

KLEENEX

Disputakia Tiranes madu nË Collellan (not eation)

***

WATCH

For The

SLAVE SHIP

COUNT THE

"TELEGRAPHS"

EVERYWHERE

|OUTE#0000000000000

CARAMEL CUSTARD A LA DOCTOR HAY: SOME DIET HINTS

is spinach purce and egg yolk re- Does Dr. Hay advocate the use of commended as a main dish for a flavourings? tiin?

Ousting The Sponge Bag.

Flavourings obtained from aro-VERY neat and most attractive are matie plants can be used sparingly,

the many coloured, floral sotin Occasionally spinach puree and but those of the spicy type are des egg yolk is a very good dish but finitely not recommended as they act washing bags which seem to be tak- owing to the high acetic acid content as irritants to the mucous membrane ing the place of our much esteemed of spinach it is not to be recom- of the stomach and the intestine, though rather austere friend, the mended frequently.

Flavouring should never be used to cover an original flavour of food, but sponge-bag. rather to bring out the natural

is tinned cream recommended in flavour or improve it, the Hay Diet?

·

*

The new variety is closed by a patent fastening curving around the

Can caramel custard be made in Tinned cream is not recommended any way which will conform with top. It is rubberilned, and is fitted with screw-top bottles and pots in preference to fresh cream, but in the Hay Dict rules?

If you substitute diluted tinned or enamelled in a suitable colour. this country, where fresh cream is seldom available, it is a good sub- fresh cream for the milk and use situte in recipes, The food value five or six egg yolks instead of and vitamin content is low in com- whole eggs you can make carameling to your needs, but most of them

will which successfully parison, but this can be made up in custard other ways.

3 Tare in various sizes, accord-

Egg yolk, fresh fruit conform with the Hay Diet rules.jore quite roomy and contain a small and vegetables, milk, cheese and but- Use Individual dishes instead of one towel, flannel, mirror and various ter supply the same constituents large one, you will find them easier amongst them.

to turn out when set

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THEY GAVE HIM

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FRANCHOT

A GUN

Directed by

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Metro Goktorun Mayer mosung

Girls! You'll Love This Dashing Trio In Uniform!

Imagine Ray Milland, Kent Taylor and William Gargan

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to make things exciting un- derneath a Honolulu moon!

WINGS OVER

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WENDY RAY

with

BARRIE MILLAND (Leading Man in "Three Smart Giriz")

KENT TAYLOR. WILLIAM GARGAN

POLLY ROWLES

Samuel S. Hinds Mary Phillips Joyce Compton Lovise Beavers MargazetMo Wades Clara Blandich, Based on the Story by Aildred Crash

Directed by HC. Potter

CHARLES R. ROGERS, Executive Producer A UNIVERSAL PICTURÉ

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