1936-11-12 — Page 22

10

On the Sierra de la Guadar- rama trenches are hastily dug, while in Madrid the milkboy does his usual round. But the banner says, " We must

fortify Madrid.”

ESS than 40 miles from the Puerta del Sol, the main square in the heart of Madrid, bullets whistle, shells burst, men bleed and die. But life in the city looks as peaceful as it ever was, The broad streets with the highest skyscrapers in Europe, and the narrow lanes with the Althy slums are still seething like Human onthilla,

People can hardly walk on the crowded pavement, but walking Spanlards are never in a hurry. They chintter, joke, laugh as if they were unaware of what is happening 40 milên away, or in- different to it.

Of course. they are not. They know, although the Government for far too long made the mistake of keeping all bad news from them, that the situation is now serious. They have a presentiment that if Madrid ever fell into the hands of the rebeli, at least 69,000 ̧men.“ would be executed and that almost overy anally would lose at least one of its members.

* ★

But Spaniards are the most im. provident people in the world, "We live to-duy-let us live and enjoy lfe, Mañana, to-inorrow, we'll see. "To-day as we live and the sun chines and the sky is bine, let us have a walk in the Gran Vin or the Calle Mayor, glance at the shop- windows, sit on the terrace of n care and have our boots cleaned there for the third time since this morning, look at the girls with the pale faces and the carmine lips and nails.

12

'Let us go to the cinema or the catch-as-catch-can show. Why

should we bother about to-morrow, mañana"?

But in spito of his efforts to forget all about this-civil-war-and- to behave as usual, the man-in. the-street and everybody in Madrid is a man in the street, in

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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 12,

MADRID JUST WAITS... by

the teral aense of the phrase-s constantly reminded that he lives in a war zone.

Every third man wears militk inform, all curs and lorries carry flags and dash through the streets at breakneck speed with deafening

FORTIFICAR MADR

tion, anyway quiet, peaceful and almost happy.

But by night Madrid looks cer-. tainly not "normal" at all. Since the first air raids In September, when 250 kilogram bombs were dropped in the middle of the town

hooting, as 11 the fate of the Re--one blew a deep crater in the mibile depended on the few seconds which the drivers win by their recklessness,

Housewives of Madrid feel the war more than the people. They have to quene every day, or even twice a day, for meat, butter and eggs. But the Spaniard's capacity for waiting is incredible. Patience is, after all, a form of indolence. They must have inherited it from their Moorish ancestors.

★ ★

Moreover, the wonca of Madrid are perhaps even more determined to resist Fascism. They know that the Republic had done more for them than for the men. It has liberated them, morally and ma- terinlly, from an almost oriental slavery, another millenary Inheri- tance from the Moort which wan carefully

malalained by the

Church.

· Madrid by day-looka; if not quite" "normal", as the newspapers re- peat with a considerable amount of exaggeration and autoauiges-

TRAVEL

train

Canada

Harden of the Ministry of War.' another destroyed a garage, but casualties were officially denied. measures of passive defence, have been taken.

* * ★ *

The Prado Museum was closed, very wisely, and the most precious Goyas, El Grecos and Murillos, are now stored in bomb-proof cellars. Posters are stuck on most buildings and houses indicating how many prople can and shelter there in the case of emergency. The beams of bigsearchlights wander hastily ncross the sky, and a part of the town is plunged into darkness.

But Heaven knows who is re- sponsible for these air defence re- gulations. They are so stupidly illogical that I should be inclined to suspect Fascist sabotage, if I did not know by many other examples that Spanish military Incom-

·petence--has-no-limits-and-is-per---

fectly genuine.

To begin with, the Manzanares River is lined on both banks with

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arċ lamps, which can be seen miles away and are an ideal gulding mark for rebel aviators, All the main streets are lighted as usual, with a few queer exceptions. At the Puerta del Sol, the northern part of the square has normal are lamp lighting, the southern part. Afty yards opposite it, remaina dark because it is the side of the Spanish Home Ofce.

* * * *

Cart one imagine that London airmen would fail to recognise Tra- falgar Square because the part along the National Gallery re- mained dark,, while the part near the Strand and Whitehall was lighted normally?

In the Gran, Vla all are lamps and cafes are lighted. But Inside the huge Telephone Company skyscraper in the same street, al- though every window is hermetic- ally covered with black curtains. you walk, if you are wise, with electric torch, II you don't want break your neck on the stairs or your nose against the walls.

But all narrow and -famed lanes which end in the Gran Via are as dark as a cemetery by night. At least one category of in- habitants of Madrid-and not the most reputable—is safe agalust air raids!

Is this perhaps the reason why these lanes are so crowded? The classical tradition of the close re- Intions between Mars and Vents f upheld in the Spanish civil war!

Most of the foreigners have left Madrid. Many of those who re- main wear badges in their na-

tional colours, mainly, French or South American. They are treated with peculiar courtesy.

Spaniards feel grateful to any foreigner who reststed the panic. deliberately entertained by cer- tain foreign diplomatic represen- tutives, and who chose to share the general fate.

Many of them live in buildings and houses which their Embasales or Legations have rented

and equipped for that purpose. Certain foreign legations notoriously also give shelter to personalities of the Right who are afraid of being ar- rested.

The British Chargé d'Affaires, Mr. George Ogilvie Forbes, wisely decided not to participate in this definite misuse of diplomatic privi- leges. While the Ambassador: Sir Henry Chilton, prefera practising from Hendaye, on French terri- tory, the "Walt and See" policy which is, quite rightly, deeply re- sented by n Spanish Repubileans, his deputy remains with a small start in the Embassy, which is guarded by a few grey-haired militla men, who play cards most of the day in a corner of the garden.

*

*

*

Mr. Forbes has made accommo- dation for the 150 Britons who ult reside in Madrid, in case of a siege,

He can lodge and feed them for at Jenst six weeks.

But let us hope that the moun- tains of tins of corned beef, pena

and condensed milk, now stored in the cellars of the Embassy, will still be untouched when the war is over.

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1936.

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S.S. PRESIDENT COOLIDGE December 17th, 9:00 PMI. December 19th, 7:00 AM. December 22nd, 4:00 PM. December 24th, 7:00 A.M.

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1

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