1936-09-23 — Page 2

London Fashion Experts, over in Paris for the fashion shows, report that

Winter coats

will have waistcoats

TRENDS

designers show three

OUTLINES: main styles for long coats. (1) the Tunic line: a high bodice with six inches of wasting from under armhole to lugh waist. Squite of shoulders, which are built out, not up, is repeated at hip-line. (2) Frem, ful neast cost cut to hang straight froin shoulder, losely rout, close at back. Thus style is usually without any fastenings as the fulness allows for wrap-over if wanted (making it good travelling shape). Sometimes neck to hem is outhed is für of nch, thick velvet. (3) Straight jalar & high in the waist and only slightly fitted. these coats are usually unbeled and hang a little away from the figure. From and sides may be panelled or some lulness in the sleeves.

Collage a PROPORTIONS : lew high sanding but never thick, mostly turned back in young styles. Waist : natural to high. Length: "with"the" lugh wait, one inch below call!" for the right caars, unwasted or full in front. some designers add a couple more inches for age or dignity,

when at all Geting right BELTS: into the fabric of the coat, an inch tugher in front than at back,

POCKETS: mostly paich, or zipp yes, lots of them:

fastened slus,

nothing very new.

MATERIALS: Mostly weeds.

face cloths, wool textures.

black, chocolate

COLOURS: browns, bronzes,

Noticeable lack of dark blues..

EVEN If just now, you'cintosh

tent to wear a macintosh over your summer frock, it won't be long now before you ignore the calendar, light a fire, and order a nice warm cont.

For once, the designers are doing us a turn in being a season ahead,

I like the new coals. They make even clothes-weary mannequins look young, almost spirited, like school- girls. In fact, the minin silhouette is at Just about what we did wear school; high bodlees, neat truned- back collars (round or lapelled), straight skirts, "give her plenty of room to move about" cuts that, stand- ing slightly off from the figure, make you look slim.

Great wads of bunched fur (which have always been part of my dread of winter), making the neck look short or not there af ull, are right out. Instead, the fur goes to make waistcoats, that it over the coat, sleeves. Bat collars and cuffs, or even Jabot front-bowed or draped. In- evitably some silver fox, but more short-haired furs, goat, Alaska seal, ponyskin.

".

The tunic line, which you'll wear but I don't think they will last-look if you're very slim, is the same in untidy.

long conts 08 In suits and dresses: squared shoulders, six inches of walating from under the armhole to high waist, then a squaring of the hip-line, so that the skirt section fails straight and full.

☆

One designer puts Napoleonic collars-high-standing turn-backg

-of velvet on coats cut to same line "as men's "tails." It looks good on a velvet evening coat with pointed shoulders, but a bit fanéy-dress for day.

• TUNIC-LINE influence.

SCHOOLGIRL line, COAT » of grey tweed with threedings of reds and greens. High yake butions, then borly-of evat hengt-quile, straighti- HAT grey felt, high cranonest. BOOTHES of grey suede lacing up teith 'red thongs.

Coat th

[6] bronze-coloured face-cloth

aistcoat, of Alastus seal (dyed to match). Waistcoat has rounded, epaulette-shaped shoulders, is longer ai bach, covering bell, fastens "in front with square leather buttons, COAT hat, unde läpels, a forward Being stock ped round neck; front is waisted to belt, sprogs out rather squarely on hips then falls straight HAT of bronze felt with feather switch across front.

ARMED GANGSTERS

KOWLOON FLAT LOOTED

ing.

Fashion says.

BLACK

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 1936.

ANY new colours and new materials are used in the dresses for the new season, but black is popular with almost every designer. Paris, at any rate, still regards a black dress as the smartest well-dressed woman can wear.

a

Black velvet is allied with cloth, with faille, with lace, with fur. Doing things by halves is a fashionable trick.

A slim-fitting evening dress of black cloth has an elongated triangular piece of black velvet inset down the front.

The whole of the back is black velvet, matching the cloak.

An evening dress is black velvet in front and black faille at the back, where the skirt. arranged in billowing lines, flows out to form a short train.

Another dress, of black velvet. and lace, shows the velvet in front, the lace. being arranged In frills at the back.

In a chilored suit, the coat, which is broadcloth at the back, is sent musquash in front. This arrangement in reversed on the short, narrow, tailored skirt.

Evening dresses have skirts slit at the sides, at the back in front or at Intervals round the hem. Slitting is not confined

to narrow, straight skirts, but appears also on models which are gored from the waist down- wards.

Coats or capes are worn with most evening dresses, Shapes runge from short Eton jackets

to elegant, sweeping ground- length coats.

A black broadcloth Elo jacket has three-quarter lengt leg-of-mutton sleeves made from

coat

is jet paillettes. The bordered with jet. The dress of: black broadcloth has jet "frogs" down each side of the slender, ground-length skirt.

MUTTON and MUSHROOM ·

PIE

HIS dish dates back to

Tthe days of our great- grandmothers, and is well worth reviewing when mush- rooms are plentiful.

To make it you need the clops from neck of mution, without, the serug. Cul of the fat, trim the chops and cut of the cuds of bone.

Arrange in a deep dish, "sprinklo" with salt and pepper.- cover all over with pecled mushrooms, and add more sait and pepper.

Cover

No water is used. with pastry and bake for an hour and a half, if you do not- care for crust, try it without.

produce the keys of her safe. The safe and the rooms were searched and rifted of valuables, Including a pair of gold and diamond drops worth $800.

A description of the intruders has been circulated to all police stations. It states that the first man was about He 30 years old, fat and short. appeared to be a Shantung man and carried the toy pistol.

EMERSON

Exclusivo Style

Creations.

Metal Valves.

"Recreates the

Artist in Your

Home."

RADIO

EASE AND ACCURACY OF OPERATION ARE ESSENTIAL TO GOOD RECEPTION-ALL EMERSON MODELS ARE DESIGNED WITH ILLUMINATED DIALS AND EMPLOY DISTINCTIVE AND EFFICIENT TUNING PRINCIPLES.

Sole Agents:.

TSANG FOOK PIANO COMPANY. 19 Queen's Road Central. Hongkong.

OUR BRITISH crosswordS

ACROSS

12

13

1 Sh! I ain't asleep, (anag.).

7 A bitter plant-not used for

scrubbing.

8 In the eye or near it, maybe. 11 Drake's male..

12 Is. within call.

13 This rant was employed by

sallors,

10 To own is all very well, but

this sounds superior.

Rome.

19 Tas

optical arrangement of importance in Ancient

a spring concealed in it.

Gounds brown. 23 Mado very, cold.

24 What the monkey used the cat

09.

25 The picador type. 28 Avails (aning.).

20 They are always in the honey- comb, but never in honeypots. 30 Do I rule braves? (anog.),

DOWN

They left about an hour Inter, Armed robbers paid a successful leaving behind three knives and the 21 This brown is taken in, and revolver, which turned out to be a visit to the second floor of 229 toy. Nathan Road carly yesterday morn-

The Police suspect that the robbers Completely cowing the ter-were formerly employed by the rified inmates, a contractor's wife and her servants with knives and a contractor at Shing Mun. toy pistol, the intruders made off with $813 worth of jewellery and double-purpose, say a sleeping bag $275 in Hongkong currency. or cape, but no, its only use was a About 8 a.m. a Northern Chinese skirt), a sportscoat with pockets called and said he was sent with shaped like enormous gloves-and gifts by the contractor's Shing Mun

The second was also a Shantung made of the same tweed as the coat, foreman. The contractor himself

mann, about 25 years old, and tall. a fur hat bullt to look like two hats was at that time, in Shing Mun. Only steadfast rule is that there be

-one on top of the other.

As he was admitted, three other He did not produce any weapon. nó decoration--panelling, fulness or

The third was aged about 40, of Chinese. followed him in Northern other interest-in the back of conts Eccentricities which you may like But for all that, the designers seem and produced lives and what a moderate build and height, and (or any other clothes for that mat- to know about-just so you can say to be rather sane this season. They ter). From behind, we are to look how-silly-and-fancy-going all-way- seem to be aiming at designing appeared to be a revolver. The un-was armed with two knives.

Also of moderate height and thin, welcome visitors ordered all the oc- allke. Only seen exception were to-Paris-to-see-that--were: a wrap- clothes we can wear, not talk about, cuparits of the floor into one room, the fourth man was stated to be long capes, caught on the shoulder of over skirt of sealskin (Robb and I

which saddens me. It's 50 much and forced the contractor's wife to about 25 years old and unarmed. the coat and swinging loosely behind, were certain it would turn out to be cheaper to laugh than to buy.

If the body of the coat is plain, ther there is something about the sleeves...Some have a round fulness just below the natural shoulder line.

Another makes his little fur waist- coats so short they are just about four inches of fur joining up two sleeves which can be worn, without the coat, over a dress,

ADVERTISE

where there is no

doubt about

CIRCULATION

SALESMAN SAM

SO DUNK BUNM SENTCHA

Wait'll Polly Tries To Eat It

YEAH, AN' THIS AIN'T (NOT AIMIN' TA LOOK A THIS PARROT FROM BRAZIL, THE FIRST TIME HES GIFT IN THE MOUTH, BUT

HUH?

GIVEN METH' BIRD!|| WHAT YA GONNA FEED

HIM, SAM?

TO SAM

DUNK

FROM

ACCORDIN" "TO DUNKS LETTER, TH' BIRD' EATS A CERTAIN

KIND OF FISH! HE SAYS

DEAR SAM: AM SEND-】 ING YOU A PARROT DO NOT KEEP IN CAGE

2 Songs without-lunes.

3 Goes after cats when made to

do the dirty work

4 Monkshood.

5 Ones.

Just as ugly as sid.

7 You never saw a watch go round like this of its own accord,

125

0 Specile Spaniards. 10 Metal

14 P. 9, that is for an elf.

13 Turns round about a pin.

10 Great victory, but London

Bridge destroyed.

20 If a certain Russian girl doem't

keep

straight she may find her- self here.

21 O Drages (hyphen, 4, 3). 22 outût is misplaced: hence`,

the severity..

Our

20 A positive disposition. 27 Indian garment.

Yesterday's Bolation. *SUB BCRIPTIONS ¬

DITTOIR LETIN I I PAGARD AN ANO CHELSEA INOLEM THE FOR THEN DRAME INCENSE DUBTMAN

NURBING BESTIAL

AHHENGENUNDAKNA

ROBED NENEGLECT IAROVERTER X U E A TERRI ACTOR 80 SMA N 1 ONE INTELLIGENTLY

By Small

UNDER SEPARATE COVER, AM SENDING-

湯

YOU A PERCH!

AWA

HOTLESS THA

ONE THING OF ANYTHING TO ACUSTIMER

T. MA RECU. A, FAT, DÉF.