1936-09-23 — Page 16

London Fashion Experts, over in Paris for the fashion shows, report that

Winter coats

will have waistcoats

TRENDS

esigners show three

OUTLINES: main uyles for long. enatu, (1) the Tunic lines a ligh bodice with six inches of waisting from under armhole to high waist. Square of shoulders, which are built out, not up, is repeated at hip-line. (1) Froni, ful news coat a cut to hang straight from shoulder, loosely in front, done at back. This style +3 wually without any fastenings as the fulness allows for wrapøver it wanted (making Food travelling shape). Sometimes neck to hem i outhted an für of tich, thick velvet. (3) Straight Jacket high in the wain and only slightly fitted. ilirse couts are usually unbelted and hang a little away from the Figute. Front and sides may be panelled or some Julness in the sleevés.

Collar*

PROPORTIONS: few high standing but never thick, mostly turned back in young style. Waist : natural to high. Length: "with"the" tugh waist, one inch below calf; for the areaigh costs, unwaisted or full in front- some designers add a couple more inches for age or dignity.

when at all fitting right BELTS: into the fabric of the coat. an auch higher in front than at back.

POCKETS: mostly patdi. nt zipp

yes, lots of them

fastened shes..

MATERIALS: Nothing very new, Mostly tweeds,

[ace-cloths, wool textures.

black, chocolate

COLOURS: brown, Noticeable lack of dark blues,

AVEN if just now you're con-

over your summer frock, it won't he long now before you ignore the calendar, light a fire, and order a nice warm coat.

For once, the designers are doing us a turn in being a season ahend.

I like the new coats. They make even clothes-weary_mannequins look young, almost spirited, like school- girls, In fact, the main silhouette is just about what we did wear school; high bodices, neat truned- back collars (round or inpelled), straight skirts, "give her plenty of room to move about" cuts tlint, stand- ing aliulitly off from the figure, muke you look slim.

Great wads of bunched fur (which have always been part of my dread of winter), making the neck look short or not there at all, are right out. Instead, the fur goes to make walaicoats, that fit over the coat, sleeves, flat collars and cuffs, or even jabot front-bowed or draped. In- cvitably some silver fox, but more short-haired furs, goot, Alaska seal, ponyskin,

untidy,

brantes.

The tunic line, which you'll wear but I don't think they will last-look if you're very lim, is the same in long coats as in sults and dresses! squared shoulders, six inches of waisting from under the armhole to high walst, then a equaring of the hip-line, so that the skirt section falls straight and full.

If the body of the coat is plain, then there is something about the sleeves...Some have a round fulness Just below the natural shoulder line.

One designer puts Napoleonic collars-high-standing turn-backs -of velvet on coats cut to same line as men's "tails.", it looks good on a velvet evening coat with pointed shoulders, but a bit fancy-dress for day.

Another makes his little fur waist- coats so short they are just about four Inches of fur joining tip two sleeves which can be worn, without the coat,

Only steadfast rule is that there be over a dress. no decoration--panelling, fulness or other interest-in the backs of coats

Eccentricltles which you may like (or any other clothes for that mat- to know about--just so you can say ter). From behind, we are to look how-silly-and-fancy-going all-way- alike. Only teen exception were to-Paris-to-see-thai-were; u wrap- long capes, caught on the shoulder of over. skirt of sealskin (Robb and I the coat and swinging loosely behind, were certain it would turn out to be

SCHOOLGIRL Ine, COAT is of grey tweed eith_threadings of reds and greens. High yohe buttons, then body of coat hangs quite straight. HAT grey tell, high cruüned, BOOTEES of grey, suede facing up with red thougs.

OTUNIC-LINE influence.

Coat

of bronze-coloured face-cloth "with canitoat, of Alaskan acal (dyed la anatch). Waistcoat has rounded, cpaulette-shaped shoulders, as longer at back, sovenng belt, fastens m frant with square feather buttons, COAT has unde lapels, a forward flating stock bed round nech; front is waisted to belt, springs out rather squarely on hips then falls straight, HAT of bronze felt with frallier switch across front.

Fashion says..

M

BLACK

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 1986:

ANY new colours and new materials are used in the dresses for the new season, but black is popular with almost every designer. Paris, at any rate, still regards a black dress as the smartest 1 well-dressed woman can

wear.

Black velvet is allied with cloth, with faille, with lace, with fur. Doing things by halves is a fashionable trick.

A slim-fitting evening dress of black cloth has an elongated triangular piece of black velvet inset down the front.

The whole of the back is black velvet, matching the cloak.

An evening dress is black velvet in front and black faille at the back, where the skirt, arranged in billowing lines, flows out to form a short train.

Another dress, of black velvet and lace, shows the velvet in front, the lace being arranged in frills at the back.

In a tailored suit, the coat, which is broadcloth at the back,

is seal musquash in front. This arrangement is reversed on the short, narrow, tailored skirt.

Evening dresses have skirts slit at the sides, at the back in front or at intervala round the hem. Slitting is not confined

to narrow, straight skirts, but appears also on models which are gored from the waist down- wards.

Coats or capes are worn with most evening dresses, Shapes range from short Eton jackets to elegant, sweeping ground- length coats..

A

is

Eton black broadcloth jacket has three-quarter length leg-of-mutton alceves made from jet paillettes. The coat bordered with jet. The dress of black broadcloth has jet "frogs" down each side of the slender, ground-length skirt.

MUTTON and MUSHROOM

PIE

HIS dish dates back to the days of our great- grandmothers, and is well worth reviewing when mush- rooms are plentiful.

To make it you need the chops from neck of mutton. without the scrap. Cut off the fat, trim the chops and cut of the ends of bone.

Arrange-in-a-deep dish, aprinide with salt and pepper,

all. over with peeled mushrooms, and add more salt. and pepper.

cover

No water is nard. Gover with pastry and bake for un hour and a half, if you do not care for crust, try it without.:

ARMED GANGSTERS produce the keys of her safe. The

KOWLOON FLAT LOOTED

Armed robbers paid a successful visit to the second floor of 220

safe and the rooms were searched and rifted of valuables, Including a | pair of gold and diamond drops

worth $000..

They left about an hour later,

leaving behind three knives and the revolver, which turned out to be

toy.

the

The Police suspect that the robbers were formerly employed by contractor at Shing Mun.

A description of the intruders has been circulated to all police stations. It slates that the first man was about He 30 years old, fat and short. appeared to be a Shantung man and carried the toy pistol.

T

Nathan Road early yesterday morn- ing.

Completely cowing the ter- rified inmates, a contractor's wife and her servants with knives and a toy platol, the Intruders made of with $813 worth of jewellery and double-purpose, any a sleeping bag $275 in Hongkong currency. or cape, but no, its only use was

About 8 a.m. a Northern Chinese skirt), a sportscoat with pockets called and said he was sent with shaped like enormous gloves and gifts by the contractor's Shing Mun made of the same tweed as the coat, foreman.

The second was also a Shantung The contractor filmselt

man, about 25 years old, and tall. a fur hat bullt to look like two hats was at that time in Shing Mun,

one on top of the other.

As he was admitted, three other He did not produce any weapon.

The third was aged about 40, of But for all that, the designers seem and produced Inives and what a moderate build and height, and

Northern Chinese followed him in to be rather cane this season. They appeared to be a revolver. The un- was armed with, two kniven, seem to be aiming at designing welcome visitors ordered all the oc- Also of moderate height and thin, clothes we can wear, not talk about, cupants of the floor into one room, the fourth man was stated to ba. which addens me. It's so much and forced the contractor's wife to about 25 years old and unarmed. cheaper to laugh than to buy.

SALESMAN SAM

Wait'll Polly Tries To Eat It

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16

23

244

ACROSS

224

120

1 Sh! I ain't asleep (anag.). 7 A bitter plant-not used for

scrubbing.

In the eye or near it, maybe. 11 Druke's mate.

12 Is within call.

13 This rant was cmployed by

sailors.

10 To own is all very well, but

this sounds superior.

17 An

of

optical arrangement great importance in Ancient Rome.

10 Has a spring concealed in it.. 21 This brown is taken, 18, and

sounds brown.

23 Made very cold.

24 What the monkey used the cat

25 The pleador type. 28 Avalls (onag.).

29 They are always in the honey- comb, but never in honeypots. 30 Do I rule bravest (unag.).

DOWN

2 Songs without-tunes.

3 Goes after cats when made to

do the 'dirty work

4 Monkshood

5 Ones

6 Just as ugly as sin.

7 You never saw a watch go

round like this of its

own accord).

19

Speciae Spaniards. 10 Metal.

dede

14 P. 9. that in for an elf.

15 Turns round about a pin.

18. Great victory, but London

Bridge destroyed..

20

a certain Russian girl doesn't keep straight she may and her- self here.

21 O! Drages (hyphen, 4, 3).

22 Our outfit is misplaced: lience

the severity.

26 A positive disposition. 27 Indian garment..

Yesterday's Solution. *SUBSCRIPTIONSZ GENEES AS A SE DITTOIERELETIN

GARDAGAO CHELSEA INNOLEM IT AR IMM THER DES NE I NOENBET DUSTMAN

NURSING

BENTIAL

NANEGLECT BAR OVERTORAX, U

ROBED

E A TERR@I@ACTO) 'SE OF BEANIFO

* INTELLIGENT LY

By Small

ADVERTISE

where there is no

doubt about

CIRCULATION

SO DUNK BUNN SENTCHA

YYEAH; AN' THIS AIN'T THIS PARROT FROM BRAZIL, TH FIRST TIME HES GIFT IN TH' MOUTH, BUT

HUH2

GIVEN ME TH' BIRD!

TO SAM

DUNK

FROM

(NOT AIMIN' TA LOOK A

WHAT YA GONNA FEED

HIM, SAMZ

ACCORDIN' TO DUNKS LETTER, TH BIRD EATS A CERTAIN KIND O FISH! HE

SAYS ---

"DEAR SAM: AM SEND- ING YOU A PARROT. DO NOT KEEP IN CAGE-"

UNDER SEPARATE COVER,AM SENDING-

YOU

A PERCH!

(AWK

| NOT LESS THAN

·ONE THING.

OF ANYTHING

TO A CUSTOMER.

7

1996 MY HEAʼSIRVice, zx, 7. lá, Rea ́U. 8. VAT. OFF.