PICTORIAL SUPPLEMENT
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, MARCH 23rd, 1929.
PAGE THREE
Assembling Your
ssembling Your Own Ensembles
This Spring.
Things Do Not Match
They Just Go Well Together
Jaunty and Diferent 1 This Marron Wool Suit Made by Jean Patou for Mme. Arleiti, French Actress.
THE main thing diis spring is to have some relation be tween coats chosen for the wardrobe and frocks that will
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go with them. Ensembles are too dear to woman's heart to be cast aside lightly, and though there will be many scp- rate spring coats, all of them will sound the ensemble note by having the color, general line or decoration of some frocks they top.
This spring things are "keyed" to go with each other. For instance, the woman of taste will not wear a chiffon frock with a sports coat this spring. She will not top a sports frock outfit with a dress hat. Her whale wardrobe will be planned with groups of different types of costumes that in color, fabric In general line bred hormoniously.
More coals will be sold this spring, if fashionists can pre- diet anything. There is a feeling for jackets or cols for every frock. Women now like to pick the jacket or coat to top their own frocks, rather than take a stereotyped assembled ensemble.
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It is quite well recognized by now that the dress silhouetic is curving noticeably, that there is more formality, more femi- ninity, and less, uniformity in new styles..
COATS however, me more conservative than dreters.
Wheras dresses almost universally adopted the uneven he last season, coats are just getting around to it. Whereas frocks marked a natural waistline as early as last summer. conis ate gow swerving in to accent it.
But even coats have fallen into the way of the changing Allouette. Spring 'coats may still sound the general straight- fine theme, but not one of the lacks some saving fullness, be it godets, side pleats, back pleats, lapping fronts or flounces. Lengths are much longer. Even sportswear is longer. Floral prints and dots are good. So are checks.
Fur trims spring ilings, or bands of embroidery take its pluce. If one bas neither, the decorative scarf is imperative. A relationship between one's hat and scarf is necessary.
There seems to be more diversity in hat shapes than in frocks. The flat low crown with trimming hanging off in some way is excellent. So is the high crown and narrow brim. So is the wide brin or the slashed, irregular or flaring brim. Even in such details ás shoulder flowers, great individuality is seen.
As accessories for a white tulle evening gown, Lucien Le long adds twin shoulder flowers in black and white lulle and places hiple stands of pearls around, Milady's neck to soften the pertness of the tulle. These accessories are shown in the photograph in the center of the page.
White is excellent this spring for evening. But the woman of individuality secks some sort of unusual accessory to dis- tinguish her white gown from others.
ONE of the mos! conquicuous succenes predicted lot, the coming season is the formal tulle gown. Leuiteboulanger created the Paris version of the tulle gown shown at the upper left. It is a handsome thing of black tulle with farge-sized pastilles of velvet, sounding the stylish polka doted theme. It is fashioned over a princess slip that takes a scalloped flounce for its lower edge that ends at somewhat long length. The tulle veiling it goes on until it reaches the ankles in front and practically louches the floor in back.
This gowns is devoid of any ornament save a spray of orchids across the front of the natural waistline.
"The tolle itself is cut princess until almost krice-length. Then it adds a flounce of pleated plain tulle, with no dots in
Louicboulanger Created This Fetching Evening Gown Of Filmy Black Tulle,
Ith Devoid of Ornament Except for Velvet Pastilles And a Waistline Bouquet,
To Soften the Pertness of Tulle. Lucien Lelong Places Twin Shoulder Flowers. On a White Evening Gown and Completes The Picture With a Triple Strand of Pearls
it. At one side there is a charmingly arranged stain.
One of the main spring songs of style will sound the suit theme. Whether it be a strictly tailored suit or a sports suit with a sweater blouse, milady just must have a suit this epring. Later on, silk suite promise prominence, But soft woolens for early spring ate really lovely.
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PATOU designed the tailored suit-shown at the upper
right for Mademoisella Arletti, well-known' Parizian ac i tress. It is tremendously jaunty and different, Its fabric, heavy ribbed worsted in maroon shade, makes it look particu larly chic and youthful.
It has a little double-breasted coat fastened at the end of rolling lapels and patch pockets: The skirt has such a deep box pleat in front that it almost gives the width of a divided skirt. It is a tuck-in skirt and the little blouse of beige crépe has a frilled jabot stitched down the front. A beige flower is worn in the button hole.
Topping this is one of the new spring hats, a little soft vel. vet and satin furban that winds around the head in a svelt manner and has its ends as streamers over one car.
Very different is a sports ensemble that uses blue and gray in delightful combination. This outfit-shown at the right- sounds a new spring note for sweaters. They, too, are grow ing extremely sophisticated.
This ensemble has its skirt and three-quarters coat in smooth finished gray woolen. The skirt has a panel of pleats over the left hip that allows freedom for walking. The coat has am- ple width also and double patch pockets.
The sweater is gray with various blues decorating it in stripes that the themselves in pert bows. Cray gloves and a hat all pucse of the deepest blue of the sweater and an oddly linked silver necklace are the accessories.
MANY sports coats for spring will use the set-in sleeve that has a more or less mannish appearance. One such is
the Heuri Bendel model in Scotch tweed, illustrated at the lower right. It is in the new spring colors of apple green and
sole gray.
The cost is p berringbone tweed pattern, in green, with its edges bound in plain greep of the darkest tone. It has tai inred collarless neckline, with front lapels. Ita front widtha flare slightly to give fullness.
The feature of this cont that is newest is the scarf of green and gray striped silk that is attached to the back of the coat neck. It really is the coat's collar and can be knotted in front if the day is chilly.
Topping this is a cloche hat of gray Chinese bangkok, with an elaborate banding of green." The bending ties in a little bow right in front.
A Sweater in Blue and Grap is Worn With a Gray Woolen Skirt and Three-quarters Coat To Make This Modish Ensemble, From the Salon of Lucien Lelong.
A Gray and Green Silk Scarf Is the Collar
Of This Henri Bendel Sports Coat Fedioned of a Pleasing Herringbone Tweed In Apple Green and Soft Gray, New Spring Colors
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