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THE DELTA OF THE
PEARL
BEING THE IMPRESSIONS AND REFLECTIONS
of
A Canadian Observer during a ten days' cruise of the Canton Delts, South China.
August 1952.
¿Continued from Yesterday, a To Sam Shui
lumber yards, and saw
yards,
were
Chinese Dominoes. Watched a game of Ma Cheuk, combination of dominces and poker
scores.
vent
THURSDAY. SEPTEMBER
walk
21, 1992
saw
were
The Ethics of Confucius almost) were entering the Ling Yang saw some half demn big junks | spinning wheels ware de
two ranges of being filled with soldiers from the in the open streets," "A"{\ forgotten, Baädhism stagnant it Gorge, between not dead, worship of ancestors mountains. It was a lovely day, barracks to the West of the Town, ter Evile girls cheerful work somewhat hypocritical and exag On the right, on entering the There must bare been some 950 quickly and deftly, Drend in afone junk which was flying queer jacket, looking clean and cheerful gerated, nothing remairs to pre-gorge, there is a sort of matshed there and two or three ponies in the usual, black trousers and
from theland trench earthwork, near degeneracy older moral standards than exam-village, where a few soldiers could red tag. We thought these were they go an doing the same work plary hygiene and Christian clean be seen, whilst opening out of the Chan Kwing Ming's troops. They week after weak. And for how a conical pagoda, sailed "away down and across the much? Probably 20 cants a day living and uprightnew, ably ear-gorge, below
the opposite share a few miksperts. The old man who showed us round indicated, as much. ried out by Medical Missionaries there is an earthwork trench and river, landing near a village on for novices and $1 a day for ex-
a few soldiers down the hin. business
Their food was being prepared in and hich principled
After passing two pagodas on down.
Through Beautiful Gorges, houses established by Europeans the right bank and seeing three
Tuesday up anchor at 9. We a cookship in a courtyard, an old amidst these seething hordes of
more on the hills on the left, we intelligent human workers.
anchored off Shiu Hing, the swung round and steamed down woman being in charge of numer
stram We save more of these ous little charcoal stoves. ancient capital of Kwang Tung.
A Colossal Trade. A Progressive Business,
A broad flight of stone steps picturesque old pagodas—so old
The volume of trade and traffic The AP G (British Asiatic Petroleum Co.) seemed to be doing right down the bank to the water's that trees and shrubs grew right a very progressive and active busi-edge was crowded with Chinese up on the topmost ledges Away on these inland waterways and Above it behind Shiu Hing we could see the in these wonderful old Chinesa. ness; their smart brats with the and a few soldiers.
the whole beautiful white man Red Easign flying, bustling up stood out the clean looking little foothills of the mountains which cities is really colossal. Here the is a curiosity.-H. the "Seven
is quite kindly stared at and his We left Pak Kai on 25th August and down the rivers and ereeks to store and office of Liggett and back:d
marble jagged peaks height is a theme of langh- bucked the tide and current, out-of-the-way villages, their goyers; who are doing an increas-scenery. We
of skepinging admiration everywhere. The ing north through a rich country of paddy delds, palma groves, then downs generally the best in the ing business in numerous kinds Sisters.
towns. A very intelligent lot of of cigarettes in packets with Chi-standing right out
and characters ground. Later on we passed the evidence of hustle and bustle young white men of good educa-nese pictures mulberry plantations, with rugged: mountain ranges behind to west-tion are in charge of these depots.which have become quite popular. shaped rock of the "Waiting Wid-bales, baskets and bundles, of mat- ward. We passed Kau Chuang, a long series of villages, all with quite responsible billets, especial-competing with B. A, T. C. Next ow" by whose side seemed a huge tings and merchandise, vegetable in view of the keen competition to it we saw a white building. fallen rock, that of her husband produce and fruits, at these cities, at whose rising clearly shows that the stagnation pawnshops! The features of the place were again the world would come to an of the past few months is over. Government
The fear of the soldiery and the The occupying quite two miles cif the American Standard Oil men. nominally called the Grand Hotel.in the legend, the river bank. Junks
The entrance and passage down fear of river pirates is passing. were also interesting, generally the numerous lumber yards and end. firewood, with
logs big high square buildings of six junks, logs innumerable, and hand piled
the the gorges strike one as even more Peaceful trading conditions are We back again and the people are and poles, all to be handsaw to seven stories, with very small rudeness. Here I saw bundled and stacked on incumer-
alit windows. Here the poor folk largest logs since I had came to beautiful than on coming up.
passing miles of is gring to call the attention of able smaller junks by men, women, and children; bordes, all working. Pawn their winter clothing in China. They were from 50 to 60 slipped fast down the swift swir-busy and happy. H.... says he not very hard wood but clean paddy and mulberry as far as the the Chinese Maritime Customs to
some of these cities where no Co working steadily and quietly, not Pring and summer kits in au-feet by 1 to 2 feet in diameter, ling current,
straight grain. They were being eye could reach. An Afternoon Walk.
st all sizes. What an extraordinarily, stagna-toms Office has yet been establish- even much chattering, all interest.tumn for a very little "wash."
rad sawn into planks ed to see the Gunboat forging alow-
On Sunday, as usual H.
The bric-a-brae and hardware By past. We passed through a longi stretch of scenery like the Rhine: church service, when the crew had Grass matmaking is in one section ant civilization was all around us-ed.
making walks. with conscientions work, amidst a life shops mostly contain caly the then the West River joined the "fallen in" for Divisions, while of the town and in another are corntment in crude, continuous,
hand-of squalor, just for daily food and cheapest and most tawdry goods. hand twisting went crude
of behind it all, behind these in-1 saw scarcely any foreign goods. North almost at right angles. the "Captain" inspected the spick rope
ales, where cables and ropes causing a confused surging of and span little ship. We
in the afternoon for
out split bamboo are made to be used dustrious workers, men, women not even tiaware er ontlery. But stands the ever there were some bags of American h ́urs' 03 waters. We swung round to the ashore
cash-squeezing flour. There were signs of "Joss”
sticks port of Sam Shui, where HM.S.couple
readstrong and pliable, they vary Kom grasping petty Tarantela"-17 knots, and 2 six church service, when the crew had by the junks and ships. Very and children,
On Sunday, as usual H.
oh one inch and a half, to two inches Mandarin, Government Tax-grasp everywhere. Joss
ing and "ki" posts afloat and burning before odd-locking “luck” iach guns-and L.S. "Pampango"
so that thella diameter. were at anchor. We ran up at a from the Town, along the
Here also one sees pewter works ashore. For two hours we passed or "anti-devil” shrines at street good speed. let go anchor, and Dyke, buik zigzag
to and shops displaying candlesticks, through the heaviest rainstorm we corners and even in the shops swang to the tide in fine style Devil could not walk on the top.
We boarded again at 10.30, ap breast the "Tarantula, now y.We passed paddy fields, en ing senior officer's broad pennant./aroons where . shoots many alfancy boxes, lamps. joss stick had yet had. It was not easy there were pewter oil lamps and soon off north H.... knows everyone of them anchor and were L. and I dined on board the snipe in the winter time, when the burners, etc., while wood-work-going through the tortuous chan-incense stands. "Tarantals." with the Commander doaded fields have dried up a bit.ers, coopers and carvers are busynels and swirling waters, but
th and safely brought the Robin to towards the great city of Canton. There is wonderful scenery here.in another section.
It is extraordinary to see only recently cut here, and a
work OF all hand. anchor off Yung Ki wharves a: The narrow river follows a wind-
ing course and passes through. A Busy TownL
acres and acres of mulbury plants- Leutenant, about to be "Geddes the three waters meat," the West Axed," looking forward to getting River, North River and Tributary continuous
canes at home, the a job cut bere, & Sub-lieut. and Creeks. In the distance are two There is nothing hurried about about 6 pm. Docter, and a Mr. Hall, a silktanges of mountains, through one all take their time, but accom-
of the gorges of which we are to plish something all along the line! A wonderful sight was Yung tions. The canes koked just like
Ki. Tags and tow janks, primi- raspberry every hour of the day. go to-taorrow under H's pilotage.
tive paddle
crowded leaves being a bright and vivid затрава, A French Mission.
mer-green. Endless junks were pass- merchant in Canton.
Thoughts While Reading.
We turned off one of the eastern with bales and bags of We have done a good deal of
with chandise, women, paddlers, steered, all with their cargoes and on the siding wonderfully in the swift car-passengers, making up the life of reading. In the easy chairs en our side streets into a gateway
rent, leading and unloading going communication in this wonderful a large open Ong RCA BUMNESS CARDS & Fame desiring with complicated counting up yacht-like foredeck, of a most in- "Catholic Mission" This ancient game, sa teresting kind-Phillip Gibbs on post, opening into
We steamed swiftly and quietly played by the "Hope of Europe," Repington's space with fields and orchards on well into the darkness. Rang-district Past the big town of trade dealing mendes the invested experts, is taking the place of After the War 1919-1921. "From and we spied a football ground on ing themselves cut into rows and Chun Chune and soon into the
Bridge both ashore and aflcat private to Field-Marshall by Sir the left. Then we came to an made fast to long tow ropes, the main Pearl River.
Robertson, and the old building with living rooms and sampans and junks, after much into Canton at about 3 o'clock. among Europeans. Then back or William board the "Pebin," a good sleep,Memoirs of the German Crown a dining room on the ground floor siren sounding and shouting, gǝtack on coal from the Naval Store books and beyond some brand new red off either up or down the river in and made fast to a buoy opposite cool, no mosquitoes. The "Taras Prince."
The night proved to be rain,
I shall not attempt to describe THE LONDON DIRECTORY CO., LTD. tula and "Pampamgo" were of should be studied by the rising brick school buildings. H.... got the wake of tag. This was the the Shameen.
and was much disturbed by the Canton. That needs a better pen early the next morning. Mr. Hall generation. They have given me a boy to take his card to the boss, busiest town we had yet seen.
од the came on board for breakfast, and a better understanding than I have and presently an elderly beardedį
white cassock, in
shrill sounding of many whistles) than mine. The scene came we then landed and saw him off by had of what has taken place dar-max
black-robed priest B
Engwhich marked the arrival or deriver, crowded as it is with ship- and train back to Canten. There isng these past ten strenuous years, wonderful traffic on this.Chinese This reading and the delight-out Railroad, bales and bales of ducks'
conversation ish wele med us. They showed Parture of passenger junka. Some ping of all sorts ranging from thoughtful ful.
his us over the whole place. It was of these were propelled by sfern swarms of sampans to Chinese feathers, and paper, and crowd land, comments of H.
treadmill. men, and an American destroyer own experiences on the Rhine a Portuguese Jesuit school with paddiswheels, worked by men and men-o-war, ocean-going merchant- of passengers,
service afty boarders and a hundred and boys treading on a previous and
Submarines eighty out-students, under French Surely, a most primitive method with four funnels, baffles descrip tion. Loading and unloading go- Busy Worker
ships and
We landed and passed through ing on everywhere, bales and pack- ́ During a walk on from the Porte
These Jesuits had bought what the Old Walled City of Sam have been & treat unparalelled for protection-a curious situation. of propulsion.
during very many years. Shul. through narrow bat quite
of the Viceroy, with They were narrow bat clean and boats jostling their way into the sume four hectarea lined by market stores and stands Bund Wall-it was a medley of for clean streets, we passed dozens of is one of those incompar had been in ancient days the streets of the usual Chinese kind. ing cases abcunding, passenger
making able Naval Offeer characters who, Palace busy dis and women
and meats, pork, ducks and chicken men were prominent. On the island match boxes, splitting wood into while keen on efficiency, looks at grounds of
walls. It must have been at ene Call, or "Phone Central No. 4310. shaving strips bending them into the human side of the service; and surrounded by thick battlemented from which were afd vegetables energy in which women and boat. mx shapes, and pasting strips of Imperial and world interes time a wonderful place with its all roasted. Shops of every de-of Shameen, the foreign quarter,
looks with a broad-mindedness!
the top of fine old tress. blue papers thereon and stamping
one having a huge vid tree in the streets, ranging from teashops over
to the vender of dry fertilizers. This little island is just an oasis labels, thousands of them. There, and hopeful vision of better consulsed prass square plots, the main rition were huddled along side there floated the Union Jack just
ditions, brightening alt his talk-
contre and stie semi-circular
for the foreigner is this vast old were piles of boxes ready for ship-
In a Silk Factory. of humour. with
touch
stats or dais. They showed us in ment to the match factories at Sai
(cheery, pelite host, too, is Hed the main class room two cases of
Turning of into a courtyard and city of some three million people. We landed and went to the Nam, a short way down the river!
intimate ipoihting oor with his
brass band instruments, sax through an office we found our- -qaite a big city.
trombones. cornets, selves in one of the numerous silk) Shameen Club where, after read- There were also streets of mene, knowledge of the Delta all the ers of common cotton cloths and wonders of the old Cities, their phones. towels, old woden Inoms being individual industries, and the infeziolets, piccolos and a set of spinning filature factories. A fating the news which we had not. drums and specimens of some and old No. 1 tiek us through and had for some days, we met the terest of the many workers ashore worked by girls and boys in every and afcat.
examination papers in Chinese, it proved a wonderful experience. British Consul General and Vice- as well as many other
and and English. They were really re- Here we saw over five hundred Consul
interesting men... little house; the people all clean
There goes a typical sampan, markable. These Fathers enter-girls and women in rows and rows. cheery and happy and all working.
Cantor two women rowing powerfully and ained us with good port wine and Each had a basin of boiling het Among them was a Canadian, now Old Temples.
the man sitting amidships smok- biscuits, and szemed awfully water in front of her, in which "Taipan" af Jardine's
office. From him we had an in- I joked with floated numerous silk
We We inspected two or three very ing an extrordinary old pipe-not pleased to see us.
cocions were dexterously vitation for tiffin next day. If you want to take the frictam, we
them as to whether they taught The recommend that AGFA'S ROLL of FILMS eld temples or Jess houses, with fepium, bat mild heal tobacco.
hould be used whian can be obtained in
extraordinar cartings on their
Here is the Gunboat Chartered these students Jazz noises on the handled with chop-sticks and then dined that night with Consul Our Studie BEST QUALITY AT MODER-gateways and porches. In one we sampar. She has had the privi- brass band, and they laughed loud- an almost invisible strand of silk General Jamieson and spent a de found a ceremony going on, alege of attendance on the littlely and produced quite up-to-date was picked up on the sticks and lightful evening among his unique
the and beautiful old Chinese farni- " bronze burner with incense burn gunboat for some years at this sets of band music other than Jazz. led through two leads over ing in the yard, and beyond the Port. A fine specimen of a man They were glad to have a chat head on to the spinning wheels beture and objects de vertu, some of altar. and behind that huge ugly and his wife (with their child with white men as they seldom see hind. The hair of the worker them almost priceless to-day. His images, before which jos sticks strapped on her back) are rowing them, though recently they had worn in long pigtails, was very description of his collection is only and candles were burning. A This little woman has a looking seen our Bishop when here last carefully hung up on a nail behind equalled in intense appreciation a red cope and glass under the mat canopy. It year staying at some Chinese gen-each one, this being done to avoid by the privilege of seeing them.
A Unique Consulate. young priest in black head dress, was chanting is interesting to see her tidying tleman's house in the neighbour-its being caught in the spinning
I wonder how many folk stop to carious wailing prayers, with an up her glossy black hair with ahead. Their talk of politics and wheel machinery--all crade wood- old man smoking a cigarette, and jade pin therein. Then there is their references to Sun Yat-sen den spinning wheels and spindles. think or try to realise the remark banging a gong at intervals, atquite a nice little silk hat with alete, were very interesting. They Little girls were constantly bring-able position held by our British gilt ornament of sorts, on the forecasted Sun becoming Presi-ling in fresh baskets of cocoons to Consular representatives and In little chapel, six each side child's head. And, cheerily, the dent of China and at once appoint-feed the rows of basins. In the especially this British Consulate
oars at all ing some
again General in Canton? His is really strong Mandarin anext room, the silk was of the courtyard were extraordin-woman handles the arily ugly images, with realistic times.
Governor of Canton to drive away being wound on to larger spindles 2 Ministerial position with all ite figures, grouped in front, carrying
The women Here are wonderful. Chan Kwing Ming, his soldier from which it was taken and made attendant immense responsibili into skeins. Quick-fingered boys ties. His years of experience In out hideous punishments such as
They are working and yet are opponent. beating on prostrate figures, be neatly dressed in black or dark
They invited the Captain to made them into twists, such as one China, both North and South, is headings, sawings in halves, cut-blue bloomers and a skirt, in the bring his men, ashere to play foot sees at home, and then the skeins invaluable to the authorities both ting out a heart, crushing heads, streets and shops of Samsbui, as ball to
show the bays the were carefully packed into parcels, of the country in which he is all the glossy ends showing serving and that of which he is a and bodies inverted into barrels well as on their boats. Their care right way to play. of lime.
There were men and and fondness for children is re-
Later it poured with rain, but Each parcel is worth about $140 servant. The high regardin women figures looking on evident- ly wailing with tossing arms and markable. I have never seen any we got back on board for dinner and the bales hold tenparcel which he is held by all the leading familiarity or indecency so far, and turned in early. The firing Such are the bales of raw silk, all Chinese merchants and officials is terrorized countenances. But they and have been surprised at the of crackers, gong-beatings and natural white colour, which are worthy of the very best. British all seemed out of date, with no cleanliness of their persons, many lights denoted a wedding insent to the silk merchants at Can- tradition. : May (some lijust signs of modern recognition by the though house interiors look dirty a group of sampans by the river ton for testing and then on to thepreciation by the Home Gover present day folk. Very few even and antidyl
banks. The role was kept un big silk wearing markets of Newment compensate him for the YOUR
York Lyons and Macclesfield of trifing pecumiary. attend any service. In fact atten-
Off to Shit Fling.
long into the night. Monday, 28th August-Up an- Early in the morning, a trumpet There are many of these flature which he, and all the ser
4 worksho whilst individuall (Continued on of the past to be superseded by cher and off at 9 am By moan wel kept sounding fanfares, and we
35. Atchurc Lane, london. B.C4, England.
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his side.
tion to Joss is becoming a thing
what?
Goard
thick these
A
in.
good
...
་
and
Cocoons.
Canton
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