Strange Fashions to Offset Severity.
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH.
WEDNE
BER
modify them. Our women are not Nat cantant with coloured sur- gence and dignity of those worn provided fans for some of the Another way of producing artisim in mkan. There are faces the dressmakers are adding in Athens when she was showing: Italian. war debt. When in his effects, in by the use of ribbons, world what Rapublic¡ salons one feels sa if, a magi You can frill it, quill it, loopit, tie too many millions of them to wear jawala and ombroidery and using the areatly the same thing, We broaden that are "ka soft and oguld be.
carpet had carried ons, to is in bown, in knois, and drape it take our inspiration from France marvelous in their colouring as The parity of the Greek skyla Florence and the other to Arno, in saabes. Varnished, embroider The dressmakers have not had that left nothing but the finger and, so Paris says, destroys that Chinese art. Added to this type does not contribute as much mod-ren his gown called Oftellaed, piped and figured, all ribbon, inspiration as fast as she can, of brilliancy thay noe splendid esty to the scans as gowns of has coral on it. Would she bare no matter of what kind, in grist an easy time of it this season.nails visible.
to the mill. On some frocks, the To all their arguments for The avarage woman knows little accessories that attract attention other epochs. The leg is apt to worn it? They undertook to wage battle
show in front or at the side, and
FASHION NOTES.
affect is most happy. Battles, even nudity and bravity the Paris dress of the rue de la Paix, the Place to the gown. with the public.
and the Champs Among them are the bracelet the arms and shoulders are baro,
FASHIONS FOR EVENING WEAR. without bloodshed, do not make maker has replied with definita-Vendome
Flashes of Colour. ness: "It is not possible. Surely Elysees
sleeve, the separate sleeve, the bat the simplicity of the gown is
Specially designed for tall, slim, tifa simple..
Worth contributes Autumn materials show baanti-dark, and graceful women The dressmakers knew this fact you cannot be so stupid as to ruin SPLENDID ACCESSORIES ADORN ambroidery of snail shells, the appealing.
lace pantalettes, the lace trousers, rome-remarkably-lovely-gumas ful-colours; silks, taffeiss, crepe leading designer has created a They are shrewd and canny.the model. The gown is designed
Because women are to be de- the twelve-inch belts of leather of this type. It is pre-eminently) de chins, crepe satin, orepelseries of rabes which have They are not creatures of Becian long lines. Cut off the alesve,
girded dent, but they are creatures of shorten the skirt, and what do mure in their clothing there is no unvarnished, that are
You have something reason to suppose that they are to around the figure at the end of power, therefore they plan cam-you do? paigas, they arrange maps of terrible. It cannot be. It must be in the garb of nuns or Quakers, the spine.
We Mary Stuart did not dress like There progress, they go by sigo-posts not come from this house. And those sign-posts are written are artists. We design a whole Semiramis, but she was not the that are equally venturesome. It cannot be cut into picture of a num. Catherine de There is the scarf that turns an by the publie, not the dress-picture. makers. They are, in reality, little parts. You must wear long Medici could not be mistaken for evening gown into ons for the signsofthe whimsical paths which skirts and long sleeves.
MODESTY,
are other accessorise
In Quaker, yet she cut her gowns street. There is the sleeve that so high in the neck that the collar is tied above the elbow and hangs |reached to her ears and her feet to tho kases, there is the bow of
were never seen in public.
black maire ribbon fastened on
The public need not expect a one bare shoulder with two demura appearance, therefore, in streamers, one frout and one Įthe women of the hour. They back, floating to the floor.
will not be dressed in black, like There are square trousers of is funeral procession, but their dark coloured satin that reach to bodies will be covered. Their the ankle worn under coloured clothes will not end before they tulle gowns that reach to the in- begin, and there will be something slop, there is the balayeuse off tangible between the flesh and the pleated muslin or lace placed at frock. A pair of chiffon bloomers the hom of six-yard skirts. In and a crape-do-Chine bathing suit its former day of glory it was will not constitute a street cos-accompanied by a pair of square' iume.
A woman may continue to wear
stockings which are intended to Callot evering frock of pale fool the public into the belief that green and gold brocade, trimmed she does not wear stockings, but with gold embroidery which forms she will have so little chance of the girdle. Large pearl ornament showing them that she may cassa in front of girdle.
to give six dollars a pair. Their
price was governed by their public appearance. Now that they will not be seen, they may drop) to the comfortable old price of sj dollar a pair.
The gowns in this era of mod-| esty are works of art. They are no longer shreds and patches of ungarnished material. They are as full of colour as a Turner saa- set Lite the ancients, the dross- makers have gone to the heavens for inspiration.
the public take in its course from
the cradle to the grave.
Sometimes these sign-posts point the way to severity, as they! did during the war; again, they point the way to license with a touch of debauchery; or they may point the way to religious man- Ders, to the morals of the cloister. or the economy of those who continually dwell in the middle places of life.
The reason these sign-p ats have power with those who follow the paths is that human nature continually changes its externals. never its fondamentais, and those i who must live by the whim of the public raust read the signs of its mind, its desires, and its spiritual twisting and turning.
Possibly the dressmakers are tho bandmaidens of the public. Who knows? Those who deal! with them believe otherwise.! They believe that their power comes from the alliance of artistic perception with a keen knowledge of human nature. When they see women going in a certain! direction, they follow, but not! afar off. They sense the direction
and represent it so quickly by aj tura in fashion that the vast majority consider them leaders, not followers,
NEW ROAD LEADS TO HODESTY.
The trend toward modesty la appalling to certain minca. They scream aloud, the women who have these minds, in their realiza- tion of what clothes will mean before next Spring-
The dressmakers are definite in their opinions. They talk to women as though they were mar. tialing soldiers into battle. They refuse to turn up the hems of skirts, unless they are good- natured dressmakers who are loo bewildered by the mass if people! with whom they must. deal, to speak with authority.
Blue and gold brocade with girdle ending in train at the side.. Mauve tulle is draped over one shoulder, and purple flowers fall from the girdle.
1014
TWO EVENING GOWNS
FROM WORTH.
On the left is a tan and coral combination trimmed with coral beads with narrow gold braid across the shoulders.
On the right is a black crepe da chine with skirt longer at one side trimmed with bright-coloured bead embroidery.
| attracted a good deal of attention. They are of clinging materials with novel and beautifully embroidered sleeves, usually bell shaped or slit up either in the front or back of the arm. Some of the evening gowns of this kind | are characterised by'a transpaz-
ency even more during than the . extremely decollete style which has now passed out of fashion.
Many of the gowns this sessan [are direct descendants of all sorts
the kind of thing the house does gabardine, and gabardine-de-soie, of amusing and lovely fax-off and with distinction. He has forsaken in brilliant colours, embroidered foreign ancestors. To-night, you the ubiquitous black velvet gown or plain, are being made up into may look, in a boulani and with its rhinestone ornaments- the most desirable' frocks for paniered ofsation in rose-coloured occasion in town or taffetas, exactly like a contempor pantalettes of starched white tion. He had adopted the sunset every
sty - of- Maria Antoinette; 10- cambric, and knowing this, the colours along with the rest of the country. well-known artists in drese have world. If he makes a black For the morning walk tailor-morrow, you are not the same contributed the lace pantalettes gown in the Greek style, stich as mados are brightened by milinary, person, and walk in long swathing. to the wide skirt with its lace he has done, using crepe de by trimming, or by the vivid note folia of fuchsia satin, Orenally. dast rofils, as it was once called. Chide instead of velvet, he puts of colour which comes from folded harem-wise about your
There are s few definite flat panel of brilliant beads down blouse or a lining. A suit of black, ankles.
Gold isces make many very features that the women of the front, ending in fringe, and with a plain skirt, and a 'Ibose fashion must follow, but the rest he accentuates the back of the fiting short sacque coat has the exquisite gowns, one of gold and is chaos...'.
ope with the same embroidery, bell sleeves embraidered in car-silver lace combined, a brother- He has also made a success nation red. Though embroidery bood which looks more successful AN ATTEMPT TO RETAIN CLASSIC LIN EE,
with a gown which he calls is not holding the place it did in than it sounds. This has a bodles No one can regard fashion as The Flame" It was shown to the beginning of the year, it is of the gold lace, sleeveless whole and insist that the Second the buyers in August and is not will used extensively for sleaves, Dot very low. The gold
Mom and sleeves only,
seven-inch hem in heavy sil Empire and gorgeous inediaeval~[new.
In black serge frocks there are guipure, of which the 10 ism rules all. There is a strong This gown is in flaming chiffon undercurrent' of feeling for the and pale tan crepe "with the em-red flashes obtained by slashings, tight frock Greek-line. Designers like Molybroidszy done with coral beads, either in the sleeves, or somewhere our of these, asions with skirts Paris continues to dictate the trimmed with black lace and black neuz, Werth, Callot, fusist upon Worth, uses enough coral beads in the tunic, or by the introduc
showing gowns that have the on his many gowns to have tion of & red waistcost. Ginakes and sleeveulisty law,
Many women have been de feated in Paris this autemn. They have stood in the ubiquitous grey salons and fought for the knee- length skirts and baihi'g suits;;
pleaded in vain. They have come And so it is. They are arijeta, Colloca green
And we continue to bon
tulle
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