1921-07-13 — Page 8

THE HONGKONG, TELEGE

WEDNESDAY, JULY

1971

THE BLOUSE GAINS IN IMPORTANCE.

There are two classes of women not fasten. They open in a to be removed indoors, and these sometimes it is almost în dhe | who can be depended upon for straight line down the frost and go over the skies and not under it. pisos, “and everywhere it is loyally to the genuine blouse; unless one wears a blouse or a There are othertypas, and they are slimmer than it has been for some one class is the young and waist-waisteons there is exhibited to the more frequent, which are frankly time. Hips are also slimmer. less who can stand the tail of the view that ugly line scross the intended to be used to build up a Some skirts are joked, others are blouse tucked over the hips; the front of the figure. When these complete costume by alliance with draped tightly round the hips; other class is middle-aged with two garments are in different a separate skirt."

again, there is the skirt with the a long-cultivated waistline and a colours the ugliness is emphasiSNĒ. In such blouses there is a réplain panet back and front, and tightly strapped hip line.

The very slim can obvinis this torn to the colour fashions of at the sides flat pleats showing a Now and than we drift away condition by wearing a belt, but twenty years ago. They are not lining. of bright colour, from the separate blouse. The the majority of women prefer to boned and they are without lin-Straight, loose-fitting bodices are shops insist that the sale of these jomit it. It thickens the waist ing, which is a specios of informs the rule. The neck openings

as large line,

lity that the woman of twenty vary. Some are V-shaped, others throughout the reign of the one- Because coats often open in years ago knew nothing about, are oval, and the round opening piece frock as it was before wo front there has come about an im- but they are unlicensed in the is seen on dresses essentially men took it into their heads to mense sale of neck wear. It con- choics of color and fabrics. fitted for the quite young.

This piece of neckwear is not partially eliminate the coat and sists of ornamental vests in a

Book muslin organdil, lawxx ` shirt, but the observer has a feel-variety of fabrics from organdis especially easy to adjust and it is plain and embroidered, are in ing that the one-piece frock sup to silk covered with chain stitnot always becoming, but it is fashion, Fiehus, frills, collars, pressed the blouse shirtwaist jebery, including many pieces fashionable and one must reckon flounces, and rushings lighten

The truth is that the one-piece

garments

has been

frock is ahead of the suit as far as! convenience is concerned; it is more easily made, it is cheaper to buy, more simple to adjust. It is the primitive garment of the world.

The blouse, however, belongs to us, which may partly account for our constant usage of it. We consider it our contribution "to costumary. So does the rest of the world.

The French idea of ornament- ing a tailored suit has been so commonly accepted by us daring the last decade that the observer thought our women had forgotten

RASTOU

לפונס

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At left is a morning blouse of red and white dotted Georgette with a white crepe ficha that leg long ende în front.

In the middle is u toffeta blouse that fostens snupły abore the hips. It has prgondie collar and cufs: a black tie goes under button-holes from neck to hem,

At right is a thin blouse of yellow cryandie with block atin girdle, run with bands of yellow flet lace. The aleeres are long,

the costume which they made thade of deep crtans batiste cover-¡ with it to the best of her ability. famous and which our tailors cuted with an eyelet embroidery. When it comes to transparent and fit with exceeding skill. But It is unusual for a woman to blouses, organdie comes into its suddenly the French suggestion wear a whole shirtwaist under ajown. It is offered in bright colors, has been eliminated. The Erg-coat when she persists in regarding especially in yellow, and it is lish suit, as it is made and worn the coat as a part of the skirt and often girdled with black satin to in the British Empire, is accepted. not something to be taken off. To give it a touch of solidity. Chia-

It has simplicity, durability, prevent the jacket from irritating ese brocade is sometimes sub-) and a sofficient infurmality to the skin or abeothing the body stituted.

keep it out of the battles of fa- moisture, careful women wer? Happily for women of moderatel shion. It is merely itself. It plain blouses of white nainsook means the new 'fashions depend takes no part in the struggle for cot bigh at the back, long in the for their chief charms on line and a round neck, a short sleeve or a sleeves, finished with a picot colour. Trimming is not acces long sleeve, a draped skirt or aed.e. Three come between the sary for smartness. The embroi- flounced skirt. With a magnificen skin and the coat. Many women deries of last season made every gesture it banishes these vexa-attach their skirts by spaps to the dress expensive, but this season, tious questions into thin air. It bottom of these little camisoles there is much less embroidery, is what it always has been, at its instead of putting them on a belt and even where it is employed best.

at the waist.

it can often te dispensed with. It is not quite right to say it There is a smart overblouse of The straight line is everywhere. has no determined contour this Oriental red slightly gathered into The waist is not necessarily indi- Besson. It bas standardized itself the waistline at the sides in order cated by a belt, although belts for the season of 1921. The coal that it will not present the tight are worn it is often suggested is finger-length, is beltless, has a flattened line. It is stitched with by a piping, a fold, or a seat. mannish collar and revers, two blue af its edges and fastened Sometimes it is set quite low, broad pockets at the sides and with blue buttons. There is a long sleeves fastened with bone small guimpe which shows when buttons at the back. The skirt is the high, wide collar is unfastened short, cut in two pieces with ajand thrown back. straight seam down each side. There is another brilliant There is more novelty in colour blouse made of Chinese brocade: than ia cut Black and blue are worn with a blue suit. It is forsaken. Stripes, checks, pat-built to give the effect of a short terned surfaces are ignored. The tonic blouse and resembles ·* surface of the fabric is rough, but waist-coat when it is worn under supple; the material appears to be a jacket. The sleeves of it are porous. The colors are often blue Georgette.

warm and rich. There is a deep This Oriental idea of using tan called beige which sometimes wide square sleeves of a trans- has a suggestion of mauve or pink parent colored material in a in it, there is raspberry, French tunic blouse of varied coloring is blue, deep pink, bright yellow, good. Paris brought it up from thick heavy cream.

the Orient and is making a The colour whirl of the blousés feature of the fashion. It gives shows that the manufacturers are a tall woman a distinctly indi trying to please the public or per-vidual garment.

suade the public. Whichever way The touch of red is shown it is, there is a belief that the in another blouse of red and separate blouse has come into its white dotted Georgette - which own. It will rot be the blouse of carries the newly revived fichu. other days for it will not have While it is true that the sale o undisputed supremacy; the blouse neckwear for jackets increases an of the summer will be varied and thesessondrapene, there is no lack. Dot unifora",

of appreciation of the separate Over-blouse of red taffeta When it is worn with a suit it blouse. There are certain types stitched with blue of the edges often resembles a waistcoat for to be worn with suits by those and fastened with blue buttons. the simple reason that many of who insist upon taking off their The high collar can be turned- the new suits bave conts that do coats, using them as outer wraps | back to show un organdie guimpe

Blouse of gray lace lined with gray crepe which has long, tight Leeres and a large bow at one side. It is cut in a straight line of the hem and comes nearly to the hips. It is usually worn with a knife- pleated gray skirt.

dresses in taffetas, foulard, and silk crepes. Some of those dain- tinesses, are piped with a narrow) band of shiny leather, and the effect is extraordinarily good.. There are summer skirts with al

Ornamental blouse of crepe de chine embroidered in bright flowers. At each sile there are many loops of the fabric. These hang over the skirt,

variety, as they can easily be changed.

Sleaves for summer frocks will be very short or of albow length jonly, a feature of special merit where delicato fabrics are con- cerned, for, as Bvery WOMEN knows, the short-sleeved frock • keeps its first fine careless fresh- ness intact for a much longer (period than the one that pos885585

sleeves of greater length.

FASHION NOTES.

Pajama suits for negligae wear jare becoming more and more popular and because of this fact {the newer pajamas are made up jin gorgeous silken fabrics instead

plisse ruche round the bottom. This season, no frock of the of the former wash cottons and Hip sashes show double lawn genus lingerie will be complete crepe de chines. Many of these frills round the lower edge and without its matching chapeau. Creations are so very luxurious many neck openings have high There are many ravishing models, and costly that one would almost loose falling frills round them. and not the least fascinatng be afraid to wear them even as

Nothing looks fresher or morej among them are the hats of mo- negligees. youthful than a light shot taffetasiderate size and mushroom shape)

The 1840 decollete is .8092 dress with a fichu bodice outlined made of some by a soft lingerie rolled-back | Others of Swiss

airy fabric.gain on some of the newest dinger and dance frocks. Skirt or organ-

collar and abort sleeves turned die are broad of brim and lines worn with these drooping back in the same way, Hip dat of crown, with a drooping aboulder effects are full and draperies of the panier descrip- scarf of the same fabric failing sleeves reach almost to the elbow, The whim of the moment seems from the underbrim and over the left shoulder.

to be for affecting slender baight.. White collars and cuffs, ruffled Thus are found heels high in one or frilled with lace, make very

direction, combs bigh in another happy endings for washing frocks, swathe and lengthen.

direction and shawls which and help to give freshness and¦'

tion are drawn `back" so - that they almost, form a polonais st the back, and the front has an apron, delicately scalloped and ruched. In shot mauve, in shot rose, in black, in grey, these little taffeta dresses are most becom- log.

Tanic blouse of Chinese brocade with square sleeves of Wue Georgette. It acts as a uvistcoat to u blus coal that does not meet in front,