82
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ELIZABETH L. JOHNSON
Patterned bands are woven in a series of discrete patterns, all extremely fine and intricate, each approximately 2-7 CM in length. See Plate. A particular pattern is often woven twice in succession, the second time in reverse. Each pattern or pattern element is named, although more than one name may be in common use for any one pattern. Among the various common pattern names are “olive pit” (A) a lozenge; “plum” (B) an overall pattern of small circles; "fishbone" (C) a chevron pattern; and "angle" (D) an overall zigzag pattern. These pattern elements may be combined. For example, a pattern like two angular hearts point to point is called "angles enclosed by fishbones" (E). Like other Chinese design motifs, these patterns sometimes have significance beyond their immediate meaning. For example, a band brought by a Tsuen Wan bride to her husband's home at marriage had the pattern called "little olive" (F), a homophone for the words "male child", which she was expected to produce.
Another type of band is tubular rather than flat, with a spiral striped design in several colours. These are apparently produced by some type of knitting or perhaps spool weaving process. They are worn only as apron bands, by Sai Kung, Shatin, and Kowloon women. They are for summer wear.
Usage
Patterned bands constitute the only ornament worn by traditionally dressed Hakka women in the New Territories, with the exception of some pieces of simple jewellery. Until recently, when more colourful, western-influenced clothing became popular, Hakka women of all ages wore simple suits of dark coloured or black glazed or unglazed cotton or glazed silk, or homespun hemp. Now this clothing is worn only by older women, with younger women in all except the most rural areas favouring modern styles. Patterned bands provide a striking bit of colour when seen against the sombre, dark traditional clothes. They are worn in several ways. The most conspicuous is as an ornament on the characteristic hat with a black cloth fringe commonly worn by Hakka women while working in the sun. A band approximately 70 CM long, of silk or cotton, is cut in two at the centre, and the cut ends sewed at either side of the hat's centre hole. The bands then pass to the side of the hat either on top of, or below, the brim. They are stitched
82
+
ELIZABETH L. JOHNSON
Patterned bands are woven in a series of discrete patterns, all extremely fine and intricate, each approximately 2-7 CM in length. see Plate A particular pattern is often woven twice in succession, the second time in reverse. Each pattern or pattern element is named, although more than one name may be in common use for any one pattern. Among the various common pattern names are “olive pit" (A) a lozenge; “plum” (#) an overall pattern of small circles; "fishbone" (**) a chevron pattern; and "angle" (A) an overall zigzag pattern. These pattern elements may be combined. For example, a pattern like two angular hearts point to point is called "angles enclosed by fishbones" (a te › A). Like other Chinese design motifs, these patterns sometimes have signi- ficance beyond their immediate meaning. For example, a band brought by a Tsuen Wan bride to her husband's home at marriage had the pattern called "little olive" (##), a homophone for the words "male child", which she was expected to produce.
Another type of band is tubular rather than flat, with a spiral striped design in several colours. These are apparently produced by some type of knitting or perhaps spool weaving process. They are worn only as apron bands, by Sai Kung, Shatin and Kowloon women. They are for summer wear.
Usage
Patterned bands constitute the only ornament worn by tradition- all-dressed Hakka women in the New Territories, with the exception of some pieces of simple jewellery. Until recently, when more colourful, western-influenced clothing became popular, Hakka women of all ages wore simple suits of dark coloured or black glazed or unglazed cotton or glazed silk, or homespun hemp. Now this clothing is worn only by older women, with younger women in all except the most rural areas favouring the modern styles. Pat- terned bands provide a striking bit of colour when seen against the sombre, dark traditional clothes. They are worn in several ways. The most conspicuous is as an ornament on the characteristic hat with black cloth fringe () commonly worn by Hakka women while working in the sun. A band approximately 70 CM long, of silk or cotton, is cut in two at the centre and the cut ends sewed at either side of the hat's centre hole. The bands then pass to the side of the hat either on top of, or below, the brim. They are stitched
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