Macau 303
302 Macau
on the night 'flights' that have been operating since special radar was installed on the jetfoils. Next down in speed and price are the hydrofoils. Departures are frequent and cost is HK$46 on weekdays, HK$58 on weekends. The trip across takes 65 to 75 minutes.
Then there are hoverferries which take about 80 minutes to make the trip. They cost HK$45 on weekdays, HK$56 on weekends: just a bit slower than the hydrofoils and just a bit cheaper. Jetcats are large catamarans which take about the same time as the hoverferries and also carry 200-plus people. Fares on the jetcats are HK$46 on weekdays, HK$58 on weekends, just like the hydrofoils.
Finally there is the leisurely ferry service which takes a much more seemly 21⁄2 hours (at least). There are all sorts of costs from around M$20 or cabins from M$30 to 120. The ferry is the best value if you're not in a tearing hurry and you're not tightly restricted on the amount of baggage you can carry, as you are on the foils. The ferry also gets booked out well ahead on weekends and if you're getting a return ticket on the ferry it requires queuing at two different windows.
The jetfoils and the hydrofoils are often booked out on weekends. Try to book tickets at least two days ahead. There are booking offices at the New World Trade Centre in Kowloon or at the Macau Ferry Terminal in Hong Kong. Jetfoil tickets can be bought at MTR stations in Kowloon, but they then include the HK$4 MTR ticket. You can also go standby as there are often empty seats. On top of the fares the Hong Kong government levies a HK$8 tax for each ticket. From the Star Ferry to the Macau Ferry (on the Hong Kong side) take a number 1 bus, or it's about HK$5 by taxi. In Macau don't go all the way to the ferry terminal to book seats, they only sell tickets for immediate sailings there. Get your advance booking tickets at the office (it's hard to find) in the Lisboa Casino Hotel.
GETTING AROUND
Macau is fairly compact and it's relatively easy to walk almost everywhere. Bicycle trishaws have to be bargained with and it's hardly worth the effort - if there are two of you make sure the fare covers both. You can hire bicycles from a number of places around town. One is on Avenida de D Joac IV, next door to the Colegio de S Jose Cost is around M$4 per hour, less by the day.
3: ferry terminal
City buses all cost a flat 50c per trip or M$1 on the air-con buses. They have real live conductors who give you change too. The routes include down the main street, Avenida de Almeida Rebeiro. 5: Temple of A-Ma and the Taipa ferry terminal at one end to the barrier gate at the other. 2: Temple of Kun Iam to the Estorial Hotel near the Old Monte Fortress and St Paul's. 11: Taipa.
Buses go to Taipa every two hours from 7 am to 11 pm from outside the Hotel Lisboa. The fare to Taipa is M$1, to Coloane island M$1.50, to Hac Sa Beach M$2. You can also get to Taipa and Coloane islands by ferry from near the A Ma Temple at 8.30 am and 5 pm. The trip takes about 25 minutes.
Taxis cost M$3 at flag fall and then by increments of 40c.
THINGS TO BUY
At the bottom of St Paul's steps and near the barrier gates are a whole collection of rather touristy antique and handicraft shops. I particularly liked the ceramic tiles.
LANGUAGE
Portuguese is the official language and Cantonese the real one, but you will have little trouble communicating in English in hotels at least.
THINGS TO SEE
There's far more of historical interest to be seen in Macau than Hong Kong. Simply wandering around is a delight- the streets are quiet, winding, always full of interest.
Old hands say it's now getting speedy like Hong Kong - but you'd hardly notice.
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Sao Paulo The ruins of Sao Paulo (St the Paul's) are the symbol of Macau facade and majestic stairway are all that remain of this old church, considered by many to be the greatest monument to Christianity in the East. It was designed by an Italian Jesuit and built in 1602 by Japanese refugees who had fled anti- Christian persecution in Nagasaki. In 1853 the church was totally burned down during a catastrophic typhoon - the light from the burning church on its hilltop site lit the way for people escaping from the typhoon floods. Guide to Macau has an excellent description of the stone carvings on the facade.
Chinese Priest - MALO
• WINECRASS'
GONG
CYMBAL
Monte Fort The Citadel of Sao Paulo do Monte overlooks Sao Paulo and almost all of Macau from its high and central position. It was built by the Jesuits at about the same time as Sao Paulo, but the governor of Macau took it over by the neat trick of coming to dinner and at the close of the meal announcing he was going to stay and his hosts could depart. In 1622 a cannonball fired from the fort convenient- ly landed in a Dutch gunpowder carrier during an attempted Dutch invasion, demolishing most of their fleet.
Temple of Kun lam The most historic and interesting temple in the city has a whole host of interesting things to search out. In the temple study are 18 wise men in the one with the big nose is a glass case - said to be Marco Polo. It was here in 1844, that China and the US signed a treaty of 'undying friendship'. So much for R Nixon. The 400 year old temple complex is dedicated to Kun lam, the Queen of Heaven and Goddess of Mercy.
Old Protestant Cemetery Knock at the door and someone will open it for you; it's the most fascinating place to wander around. The English artist George Chinnery and Lord Churchill (one of Winston's ancestors) are buried here but far more interesting are the varied graves of traders, seamen, missionaries and their families and the often detailed accounts of their lives and deaths. One US ship seemed to have half its crew 'fall from aloft' while in port.
Camoes Museum On the Praca Luis de Camoes, this fine little museum has items from China and a particularly fine collection of paintings, prints and engravings showing Macau in the last two centuries. It's right next door to the cemetery.
Barrier Gate The Portas do Cerco used to be of interest because you could stand a hundred metres from it and say you've seen into China. You might even have seen a bus arriving from China or leaving Macau. Now you can be on the bus yourself so the gate is of little interest.
Leal Senado, or Loyal Senate, looks out
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