298 Indonesia - Irian Jaya
Tanah Merah south of the mountain range or make your way by air or sea to Fak Fak, Manokwari or Sorong on the 'bird's head' - but why bother. In Sorong stay at
Tony Yapen's place. Small passenger ships sail from Biak to Manokwari fairly regularly.
Macau
Sixty km east of Hong Kong, on the other side of the Pearl River's mouth, is the oldest European settlement in the east – the tiny Portuguese territory of Macau. The lure of Macau's casino gaming tables has been so actively promoted that its other attractions are almost forgotten. It's actually one of the most fascinating places in Asia steeped in history and, with a little effort, quite cheap and comfortable. If you're in Hong Kong, don't miss Macau.
HISTORY
Macau has a far longer history than its younger and brasher sister Hong Kong - and it certainly shows. Portuguese galleons were dropping by here in the early 1500s and in 1557, as a reward for clearing out a few pirates, China ceded the tiny enclave to the Portuguese. For centuries it was the principal meeting point for trade with China - a look around the intriguing old Protestant Cemetery will show just how international this trade was. In the 19th century European and American traders could only operate in Canton, up the Pearl River, during the trading season and would then retreat to Macau during the off-season.
When the opium squabbles erupted between the Chinese and the aggressive (and somewhat unprincipled) British, the Portuguese stood diplomatically to one side and soon found themselves the poor relation of the more dynamic city of Hong Kong. More recently Macau's existence has depended on the Chinese gambling urge that every weekend sends hordes of Hong Kong's more affluent citizens shuttling off to the casinos.
During the cultural revolution Macau suffered worse than Hong Kong, virtually capitulating to Chinese management. It's a nice anomaly today- Portugal and China both disapproving of colonies but neither
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making any noise about their little joint operation. Curiously, while all the noise has been going on about Hong Kong being handed back in 1997, not a squeak has been heard about what will happen to Macau!
FACTS
Population Macau has about a third of a million people, 98% Chinese, the rest Portuguese and a sprinkling of other western nationalities.
Geography Macau's 15 square km consists of the city itself, which is part of the China mainland, and the islands of Taipa and Coloane, which are joined together by a causeway and linked to Macau city by a bridge.
Economy The spin of the wheel, the toss of the dice.
INFO
The Macau tourist board has offices in Hong Kong and Macau. Pick up a copy of their excellent little Guide to Macau with detailed descriptions of many Macau sights. Abroad they are often part of the HKTA's office. In Hong Kong they're at the Macau Tourist Information Bureau (tel 3-677747), 1729 Star House, Salisbury Rd, Kowloon-where they are open from 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm on weekdays, 9 am to 1 pm on Saturdays.
The Department of Tourism & Infor- mation in Macau is at Travessa do Praia (tel 7218) off the Rua da Praia Grande. It's open 9 am to 1 pm and 3 to 5 pm on weekdays and 9 am to 1 pm on Sat- urdays.
BOOKS
Hong Kong, Macau & Canton from Lonely Planet has a section on Macau with much more information. Also look for Discovering
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