BETTER GROUNDS & GARDENS
We continue our series on gardens and gardening with some notes extracted from the reports of the Gardens Depart- ment of the Government of Hong Kong, which were published last year in the form of monthly notes.
As a matter of record we include some interesting facts in connection with planting for the first three months and although it may be too late to make use of them now, they are worth making note of. The comments for April, May and June should be studied, and the suggestions followed for the benefit of your gardens.
Amateur gardeners may be surprised to discover the wide range of flowers which do well in January. These include Asters, Calenduls, Coreopsis, Cynoglossum, Dahlis, Dianthus, Gaillardia, Hollyhock, Marigold (some varieties of the market, nowadays, have almost no pungent smell), Nasturtium, Phlox and Sunflower. Sow these direct, in the open ground, in a space free from shade. It is the best plan, to make a small nursery, later planting out the seedlings to their final quarters rather than making direct sowings where the all important watering may be overlooked.
Where open ground displays are required, it is important to dig the ground to a depth of at least 12 inches. A liberal dressing of well retted manure or vegetable compost is essential, Shallow cultivation will only result in poor stunted plants. Before putting out the plants to their final positions give the ground and the seedlings a good watering. At the time of planting, that is when the seedlings are beginning to crowd each other in the box, keep as much of the damp soil around the roots intact as possible. This minimises shock. A garden trowel is possibly the best implement to use. After planting out, well water to settle each plant firmly in the ground.
February
Ornamental trees and shrubs are pruned for several reason: firstly to enable them to produce a greater profusion of bloom; secondly to make them take a desired form or shape, and thirdly to remove old and 'passenger' growth. In the tropics a fourth and very important reason is that the main run of our shrubs are inclined to legginess if allowed to grow at will. Rejuvenation is essential to extend their life of usefulness.
According to local advice and custom the recommended time for pruning shrubs is said to be in January and February. While one must bow to local tradition, it is rather difficult to understand why the driest months of the year are selected. It can be conceded that for plants that flower uninterruptedly the whole year round such as Duranta, Hibiscus, Malvaviscus etc. these months are as good as any. But for the early blooming plants and those with a defined flowering season such as Bougainvillaea, Buddleia and Gardenia, etc. heavy pruning would at this time of the year considerably reduce the coming crop of blossom. Pruning of woody plants for the production of flowers is controlled largely by the flower-bearing habits of the plant. So before being too anxious to try out the cutting qualities of a new saw or secateurs, some knowledge of the plant is essential. If you cannot recollect or obtain the information whether it flowers on the new growth-(current year's wood) or on the old growth-(preceding year's wood)-then you had better defer your 'surgery' until it has flowered. With very few exceptions, pruning whether as a shaping operation or for flower production, is best under- taken in the tropics just after the plant has completed its main blossoming period.
March
Because the expected rainy season will be starting soon the planting out of the new shrubs and permanent Hedging is usually contemplated during this month, The following hints and suggestions may be valued.
The first consideration is that while planting may be undertaken in the tropics at any time, except in the very dry seasons, the most essential condition is that the soil be in a moist, though not excessively wet state.
With space for a shrub border in the average garden here being at a premium, many shrubs are grown as specimen plants on lawns and grass slopes. It is the special preparation of holes for these that I think some advice on may be welcomed. In the poor shallow soil of Hong Kong it is important that a sufficiently large hole is made in the first place, otherwise the plant is liable to languish and become stunted in growth. Quite a common practice is to dig a hole in the ground only just large enough to receive the ball of earth in which the roots are contained.
The proper size of the hole depends, to a large extent, upon the nature of the plant or tree to be planted and, also, the character of the soil. For moderate sized shrubs, say up to 5-6 feet, the holes should be about 24 ft. in diameter and about 24 inches deep. For trees, a larger hole, as deep as 3 ft. by 3 to 4 ft. in diameter is labour and effort well spent. In digging the hole, care should be taken to keep the top soil separate from the inert sub-soil (12 inches and deeper). Excavate to the full depth. Into the bottom of the hole should be laid any garden refuse (it need not be decayed) up to a depth of 9 inches. Then begin to fill in the hole to within 6 inches of the top, breaking the large lumps of soil and removing big stones in the process. To the heap of top soil mix about 13 to 12 by volume of well decayed manure of organic matter and complete the filling. The height of the soil should now be 6 to 12 inches above the natural level of the ground, depending to a large extent on how liberal you have been with the layer of garden refuse below. If you wish to plant almost immediately then give the soil a good drenching
29
with water to settle the soil evenly. Unless you are in hurry, the first heavy rain will do this for you. In dry and windy districts, especially on steep land, it is advisable to leave a slight depression in order to retain and collect moisture which would otherwise run off.
April
There is no better time than the present to overhaul your lawn. Weather conditions are usually ideal. Renovations and proper attention given now will save you endless trouble and disappointment later on. New turf should be ordered without delay, otherwise you may be left with the inferior grades.
Choose a day when the ground is moist but not saturated and remove worn turf. The edges of the area to be relaid should be perpendicular and the best tool for the job is a half moon or edging iron.
Make sure that the turf is lifted of equal size and thick- ness. The soil of the area to be re-turfed should be loosened to a depth of three inches and levelled or, better still, take out the soil to this depth and replace it with a fresh, small quantity of sifted soil at hand.
Once worn patches have been relaid, all attention should then be directed to the reconditioning of your lawn as a whole. Remember that grass is a crop and needs to be fed to give of its best. In order to have vigorous, healthy and weed-free turf, the requirements are: timely application of fertiliser, sufficient water during the dry season months and proper and regular mowing.
In the flower garden, seeds of Balsam, Sunflower, Cockscomb, Amaranthus (Jacob's Coat) the Globe Amaranthus (Bachelor's Buttons) and Zinnia may be sown to provide a succession for flower pot or open ground culture.
With one
or two additions perhaps, these are the most successful annuals to be grown in the wet season.
May
Much as many of us look forward to the rains to freshen our gardens, and for our shrubs and trees to make that extra growth, there is, unfortunately, the fact to be faced that our gardens during the wet months will be less gay with flowers and our all important green vegetables less plentiful. Once the Asters, Larkspur, Phlox and Petunias are passed, the months that lie ahead are not very interesting ones, unless we are prepared to grow a few annual plants to provide some pleasant relief from the "green havoc". A few annual plants are best suited for wet season culture. Gynandropsis speciusa is a good standby which is easily raised from seed. It is suitable for flowering beds, growing to a height of two to three feet but can also be grown with success in pots.
Balsams-An annual plant from India with flowers very much like small Camellias and is very easily raised from seed. Celosia plumosa the feathered Cockscomb is one of the most satisfactory annuals that we have for wet season displays. It grows to a height of three to four feet and it is best in a rich soil.
Torenia asiatica, commonly called the West Indian Pansy, but its home is in Asia, is a delightful annual for a sunny or shady position.
Zinnia is a plant which should be grown from freshly imported seed to obtain the large blooms. There is large range of colours to be had and for that matter several different types. Sunflowers need no introduction but the new types now offered by Seed Companies for cut flower purposes deserve to be better known.
There are a few other annuals for successful wet season planting but I want to leave space for a few words in favour of the Canna. Not only does this plant provide vivid splashes of colour, reds and yellows are by no means the only ones to be had, but bloom throughout rains. For beds and hold groups in shrubs, there is nothing better or quite as long lasting.
June
The first heavy rains bring hundreds of snails from their winter hiding places to devour on young plants. Zinnias are one of their favorite foods, and Hibiscus. Iris and the Hippeastrum lily are close second choices. All gardeners are advised to take warning, and prepare before it is too late.
There are three conspicuous trees which flower at this time in the Colony. All three are introduced plants and are worthy of more extended planting here.
The apple-blossom Cassia-Cassia javanica is a native of Malayan region. It is easy to raise from seed and will, if planted in a favourable position, flower in its fourth or fifth year. The blue flowering tree with fine leaves, of which the Forestry Department has planted quite a number along the roadsides, is the Fern tree Jacaranda mimosaefolia. It makes a gay show during May and early June, with a wealth of violet buds opening to bluish-violet. The flowers are tubular and are borne in large flowered panicles. The third tree is the Tulip tree-a Spathodea from East Africa. It bears on the top of the crown masses of bright orange red flowers each 4 inches across when open. The flower buds contain water which under pressure escapes in a jet if the bud is pierced with a pin. The tree is soft wooded, old specimens becoming hollow in the centre, and therefore is not a tree to be planted close to buildings or road-ways.
In addition to Celosia, Sunflower, Amaranthus (both the Bachelor's Button and variegated leaved kinds) Zinnia and Chinese Balsams, seeds of Cosmea may now be sown.
No comments yet.
Private notes are available after approval.