Directory_and_Chronicle_1850 — Page 697

1850.

Travels of M. Huc.

655

Chinese go by, they also bow to the spirit, but take care to appropriate to themselves any offerings of value. These obos are to be met with at every mountain pass, and upon most uplands. Traversing the country of Gechekten, which is said to abound in gold and silver mines, M. Huc takes the opportunity to relate, that in these countries there are men who are endowed with the faculty of discovering mines, which will remind the reader of a superstition still existing in our own country; and he adds, that such men sometimes gather around them thousands of fol- lowers, who become addicted to all kinds of crimes and excesses.

The first town the mission arrived at was that of Tolon-nor, or, "of the Seven Lakes," called Lama Miau, or Convent of Lamas, by the Chinese; Nadan Omo, by the Manchus; and Tsot Dun, by the Tibetans. This city of Tolon-nor is described as being immensely populous, and very commercial. Russian merchandise comes there from Kiakta. The Tartars are constantly bringing herds of oxen, camels, and horses; and take back with them tobacco, cloth, and brick tea. "This perpetual afflux of strangers imparts to it a most animated appearance. Pedlers run about the streets offering to pas- sengers different minor objects for sale; merchants invite the passer-by with flattering speeches into their shops; while the lamas, with their gaudy dresses of red and yellow, seek to win admiration by their skill in galloping horses through the narrow streets." The magnificent statues in iron and brass, that come out of the founderies of Tolon- nor, are not only renowned throughout Tartary, but in the most remote districts of Tibet. The missionaries caused a Christ to be cast, after a magnificent bronze model from France, and it was so well done, that it was difficult to distinguish between the model and the

copy.

Notwithstanding all this prosperity, the streets are narrow and tortuous, and nothing is met with but mud and cloaca. When the missionaries arrived at Tolon-nor, they were not long in discovering a triangular flag floating before a house. This was the sign of a restaurant :

*

We went in, and a long passage led us into a spacious room, in which numerous little tables were arranged with much order and symmetry. We sat down at one of these, and a tea-pot was instantly brought to us. Tea is the necessary prelude to every repast. While occupied in filling ourselves with tea, we received the visit of the "intendant of the table." He is generally a person of refined manners, endowed also with great volubility of speech; he knows every one, and everybody's affairs. He finished his speech. however, by asking the order of service, and he repeated the words in a chant to the "governor of the kitchen. Travelers are served with great promptitude; but before beginning to eat, etiquette demands that the traveler should rise and go and invite one after another every one of the guests who may happen to be in the room. "Come, come altogether!" is exclaimed, suiting the gesture to the word; "come and drink a little glass of wine, and eat a little rice." "Thank you, thank you!"

R