1935-03-15 — Page 3

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EYES OF THE FASHION WORLD ON LONDON

Dress - Designing For The Jubilee

The eyes of the fashion world are on London, and West-end de-.. signers are preparing to dress, In addition to their ordinary clients thousands of amart women who are coming over here from Ave continents for the Jubilee cele- brations.

In St. James Palace alt the men who have become dress dict+ ators to the British Empire for 1935.

They are high officials of the Lord Chamberlain's office. As soon as the King and Queen re- turn to London they will be busy. issuing invitations to the many public Royal Jubilee functions.

Instructions as to correct dress will accompany each of the thou- sands of invitations being issued.

Dress regulations for the most Important public and private ceremonies will be as follows:-

March Courts. The regulations for these and the June Courts are same as for the summer Courts of last year.

National Thanksgiving Service at St. Paul's on May 6-Probably uniform or evening dress for men.. and day dress for women, as at the Royal Wedding. These re- gulations, however, are not for people who and them inconven- lent, as all ranks will be reper- sented at the service,

State Banquet in May.-Evening dress or knee breeches, that 15, Court dress.*

State Ball in May. No regula- tions beyond that of ordinary evening dress.

Rush for Copies of Models

Women in all parts of the Em- pire are so interested in the trend of Jubilee fashions that London dressmakers are being inundated with requests for copies of their models, even before they have designed them!. These requests come from fashion houses in Australia, India and Canada, and also from the United States.

All the time that London dress- makers are modelling their new spring clothes they are thinking of the Jubilee. You can find them now in their work rooms, paint- ing on their life-size canvasses- the paintbrush in their case be- ing a roll of material and the canvas the mannequin on whom they try out their new designs.

Here are some of the thoughts that one can gleen from the su- dios of fashion just now...

"Yes Everything must con- tribute to the joy of this wonder- ful season. Fashion, too, must rejoice. I must have materials that will be of a bright and joyous nature-fabrics that sparkle--yet, not too much, for it is going to be a season of dignity and grace."

Wonderful day Clothes

The thoughts of another desig- mer run on a different aspect of

the Jubilee. "It is going to be a season of wonderful day clo- thes," he says, in his queer, erra- tic way. "A time of great public ceremonies, for which women will want more formal day wear than for any period since the Edward- lan. They will come to the Lon- dori dressmakers, for only in Lon- don will they and the right-at- mosphere for choosing their Jubl- lee clothes."

This dressmaker has prepared for the Jubilee by moving into a larger house, taking in addition two extra workrooms, employing 80 more work-girls, increasing his team of mannequins--he has just searched London for two blondes and securing a special Alter, who will devote her time to modelling smart day clothes, mostly for Jubilee functions.

Paris Has Become Dowdy

As for evening clothes, the Ju- bilee, the dressmakers believe, will prove that London is the world's sinartest capital. "Englishwomen are showing the world how to dress," said Major J. B. Handley- Seymour. "There is no woman who looks more graceful in even- ing dress or is more capable of carrying it with dignity. In Paris very little evening dress is worn. Paris in the last few years has become dowdy."

Women are no longer dashing off to Paris for their clothes, this authority assured me. The Lon-" don designers are getting a great- er reputation: In the matter of Court fashions they come into their own, for even the French de signers with the greatest names cannot understand the environ

ment of Court life.

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The Most Fashionable

Colours

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, MARCH 15, 1935.

LONDON FASHIONS

New Silks And Chiffons

The Jubilee colours-the Queen's choice of "Jubilee blus," which is a soft forget-me-not tone, and the Duchess of York's "Margaret Rage pink, a bluish pick-have found that way into the

are allled in, some of silks and the priced floral chiffons and "georgettes for the summer.

Daw

a

There are now many blues- cameo blues, pottery blues a mid- night and a morning blue, corn-flower blue, and many in- termediate shades. Golden yel- lows, mandarin yellow (almost orange), vineyard and waterlily green, a new cerise, a' lacquered red and maroon and plum, pastel and cyclamen pink are found, In the spring silks.

There are few fat surfaces, but more ripples and crinkles and odd finishes than for a long time. Lacquered metal brocades,, spun- glass fabrics, and a slipper satin that could, stand "by itself, are added to the rich lames, metal cloqués ripple crêpes. · ́and chiffons. A ripple crêpe is in the Jubilee colours and in silver grey. burgundy.. brown, white, and black. There is a reversible cloqué checked in colour; and u white silk cloqué checked in navy- has a navy ground with a white An check when turned round. Organza has a fire stripe. In co- loured cellophane: another has a cellophane, check.

Floral Designs

Printed silks show fioral de- siges well spaced од clear grounds. Some of the ripple crêpes de Chine look as if they

pattern of poppies, ears of corn, were painted in water-colours. À

anemones, ard limpid colours is reproduced on cornflowers' in-

chiffon and ripple crêpe de Chine on, black and or ivory grounds. A

flower printing like a her- baceous border is used on ર granite crêpe, which resembles R heavy marocain; this is on dark. Members of the Royal Family · grounds only. A laburnum leef will fittingly decide the most design in cameo. effects on a tashionable colours for their own number of..coloured grounds ap- year, I learn that when the Queen pears on a ripple crêpe de Chine. and the Duchess of York visit the Crêpe "persan, which has British Industrial Fair the Queen heavier ripple, is seer in scroll

it

will select a shade which will be known as """The Jubilee," and the Duchess will choose the shade. that appeals moet to her; to which the name of "Margaret Rose" will be given.

The Royal choice will be com- municated to the British Colour Council, who will notify the manufacturers, with the result that they will be predominating shades in the fabrics and other fashions of the coming summer.

Court dress, it is pointed out by Palace officials, is more or less a uniform and should not break sway too much from convention- al iries,

Exquisite materials have al- ready been chosen for March Courts. These are in many cases woven with silver thread to form delicate embroideries, Diamante will be used to decorate corsages and trains.

Pastel blue, it is predicted, will be one of the most fashionable colours for Court, and there will also be a great deal of pastel pink

&

printings outlined in white on mandarin gold, new cetise, light grey, and a cold belge."

There is also a great number of tangled designs in crêpes de Chine. Small white thell designs are also found in clear printings on some of the new flat crêpes de Chine; the shell design is specially good on blue. Ferns and hedge flowers are other devices, and there is a thistle pattern in belge on navy. Small butterflies and a stemless narcissus are other oral devices on crêpe de Chire Among raised surfaces are some with embróf- dered dots. A fabric like a k cashmere has appeared in plain pastel, bolours. Pla'n coloured

stán satins all have their impor moires, faffetas, chitons, and

tance this year. There are more chiffons and glass and lams lates to go with dolla riistiid; alllt bet- Hoonte As there are no Imp de signë all the fragile mat and moussellder layer of layer wilt zalli taffeta i Bas

FASHION IN PARIS AND

NEW YORK

Evening Gowns Combine

Simplicity & Audacity

THE NEW PETER PAN COLLAR

Many of the new modela show a wide flat Peter Fan collar, attach ed to the upstanding "derwal" band, made in white organdie, ör kind of transparent pique, with a raised worên ridge design.

These are trying to wear be cause the effect a rather hard. More becoming are the new fiat Pierrot ruffles in biscuit-coloured lawn or muslin. These are amock-" ed in fine stitchery in softly con trasting colours, with a picat edge, and there are cuffs to match,

Of the same order is an attrac- tive design in white crimped ma terial, stitched in harlequin lines of different colours; this is shown in an artistic variety of harmon-- ious colours, with a predominat ing colour which can be chosen to ruit the frock: The frill i al fached to a narrow "stand-up”. Keckband.

LONDON FASHION

NOTES

OLD FASHIONED SILK ARE NEW

Stiff silks, tafetas, failles and surahs are rastling round Paris. They have the look, both in cô- four and in weave, ofthe last century. There are shot taffetas, crinkled, faconné taffetas--even taffetas with old-fashioned shirt- ing actually woven into the fab- rib.

CURLS FOR YOUR COIFFURE

divid

the

anting

curld

Evening gowce here combine the engaging qualities of simpli- city and audacity.

it

The dihouette is clear cut and fabrics are not elaborately work- ed

Even

full-skirted

evening

gowns are achieved without un- due milness. The skirts are far- ed and lined to the knees with ́ stiffening, so that they stand out but show scarcely a fold."

Embroidery seems to be creep-

·ing back for evenings, It is ex- tremely light is character," and instead of making gowns look over-lavish in treatment" it adde to their air of fairy-Uke simpl city. I saw a white velvet gown the other day worked all over in

a cobweb type of embroidery in silver thread,

"

The neckline in front was high, the bodice Attea demurely, but when the wearer turned her back.

Mayo's

HONG KONG

HOPPE

Milady's Modern Milliner Fascinating Spring Hats

AT...

Fascinating Spring Prices.

South Arcade.

Eve

Opposite Hong Kong

Hotel

China Building

Gloucester Building.

Big Selection

of American. Wash Dresses Guaranteed to Wash

In all Sizes Prices from

$6.25

she revealed a waist-deep decol- COAT LENGTHS PARIS FASHIONS

letage alled in with a claster of silver roses..-

Evening wrap also achieve youthful simplicity, "but spice

bf sophistication is there never- theless. The fitted half-length coat in gold or silver metallio cloth is having a vogue.

The hems have a slightly bell- shaped line when exaggerates and the thehipped-in waist tailored. At of the shoulders.

A novelty for day-time dresses is the belt Buckle representing a motif in card sults. The motifs are big did chiely fashioned "from sliver of gold kid. I saw an attractive alivergrey afternoon gown the other day "trimmed with #broad scarlet leather belt which fastened with a silver kid buckle representing a club motif.

"

semi-formai Jacket sults in vein frequently show scalloped edging. This is a development of only a few weeks, and looks as if

is going to be popular. Skirt edges, collar lines, and even cuffs, are finished in curved scallops, little points or squares.

Narrow piping is a rival to these decorative edgins, and it is to be seen in white or pastels on dark suits and dressES

MAY VARY

To Suit Wearer

The coat-length question very perplexing.

Possibly one "can cut last season's long cost and add a border of some roug- her fabric or selvedge, using the same to trim collar and sleeves, Im Some plain sporting tweeds dark colours are lined and bor- dered with horsecloth blanketing, material, Smooth surface" sult- ings can be mixed with worsted pebbly fabrics. Hems. Indeed, will play their part in all dress schemes this season. Many even- ing frocks have a wired hem;

A sand-coloured camel-hair suit for Egypt had a frock of the same with a wide collar and belt of leopard skin, and the top yoke and sleeves of a seven-eighths. coat in the same fun.

The sand of the desert.ls a

colour good

for early spring especially in soft wool materials: A pretty, dead sort of pink is charming in Angora and wool lame, which are two fabrics that go well together.

A cape-coat of lamé in this shade looked attractive over soft angora smocked dress, anish- ed with a wide belt of plaited brown patent. Dul browns of monkish hue are, smart for hop sacks and coarse canvases. They mix well with white or grey, and are especially intriguing when matie up after the "habit" of the monk with an amusing belt of coloured glass, a gay posy, and fanciful gloves and shoes.

Girdles, belts and buttons can be very decorative and full of colour. Plenty of black abounds. and, as usual, is startest when relieved by white or grey. An- other colour once more seen with black in certain exclusive stellers is "tilleul," that queer banans sort of yellow-green that is set dom becoming, but immensely thic

Grey la used extensively in the and evening especially in shot shaded materials. There Are several degrees in cream and Just-off-white, now divided into many categories ivory, parch- ment, mastic, ice-blue clotted- cream, and riversand, Anyway, they can all look beautiful for those lovely thick Duchesse satina with their modern sheen and finish.

The new crepes and linens, rough and smooth, plain or print ed, are offered in the most lovely range of fresh garden hues. The pale pinks and blues, the latter from that chalky love-in-the- mist tone to the most brilliant

delphinum shades, offer extensive range in blues. tones raturally have their

Worth And Others

Worth is now making rather longer morning skirts, and full- ness is given in the eut. Coft's and Jackets dider in shape. There are three-quarter coats of easy fit, close-fitting jackets with short basques, short sack coats and overcoats which reach nearly to the hem of the skirt and are slit up the back to the waist. There is also the coat frock with a de- tachable fur collar. Late after- noon dresses are long to the feet.

Some of these formal ensembles are composed of a skirt, в Elouse, and a short sack coat. The blouse is of slight summer material; the jacket and skirt are usually dark or black. In the evening Worth suggests stately, but almi- ple dresses with low necklines; the

skirts swing" backwards to trains; any fullness" near the waist is held by gauglig; bodices fit, and sleeves are full and short. Under silken skirts bright petti- coats of chiffon, lace, net, are worn.

Marry Ronft

Maggy Routt imports some full- ness to all morning skirts, and " makes them reach well below the kness. Bell sleeves go with sum- mer dresses, and she brings loose- y festooned sleeves to the wrist and short sleeves to the elbow, while her Renaissance sleeves fall long from the elbow down the skirt. A white dress of hers is to be worn with a brown belt and boat and white gauntlet glo- Tes. Another dress of spiral-spun British Hnen is black and white,

·with ́à ribbon design; a knee "length coat and a bunch of white- dowers go with it There are. striped silk tailor-made costumes, and black and white dresses and jackets. Dark dresses are trimm- med with white lingerie collars, white rerora, gilt jewelry, and flowers Evening dresses are full in the skirt or draped at the back and alim in the front; some have wired bustles. The materials— faured crepe and chiffon, soft satin and crisp taffetas, net and muslin-are zich in tissue and colour.