1935-02-15 — Page 3

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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 1935.

SPRING BRIDE CHOOSES WE'RE

HER COLOURS

White, Ice Blue And Deep Cream Are Preferred

Wedding pageantry has reached Its height of late in the case of Royal brides the success of such splendour has been so great that .some of the taller types of bride are following on similar though less magnificent lines. The beauty of white always appeals. The ice-blue, millklike shade looks love- ly when worn by some girls. Others may require the rich ivory tones, or the off-the-white warmer tint that has a scrap of beige or pink in its blend. There are many wonderful woven_silver and white brocades, crepe satins with a me- tal weave and charmeuse with a faille finish.

Long associated with weddings is the rich creamy satin of a tex- ture that once stood alone in the -old phraseology. The newer way is to have that same heavy thick satin but more pliable and drap- able. Many spring brides will' choose this traditional fabric treated in the new manner. There is no better background for valu- able lace, and we shall see much Ane lace worn this season by both the young and old, the bride and the debutante. Tulle, too, always the most lovely background for the bridal vell, is much used, but of a slightly firmer texture and rendered stiffer by occasional lines of silver thread. Silver wil more than ever be favoured at this year's weddings, Charming are the woven silvery brocades, A recent country bride had selected a woven somewhat faint silvery spot in the softest and palest of pink lame..:

Two Types

There will be two distinctive types in bridal robes for spring and summer, the stately medieval effect in brocade, satin, or velvet cut in the classic streamline, A Medici collar will be found in bet- ter keeping with the long mould- ed sleeves and sheaf of lies or prayer book. The Medici collar of lace gives a great dignity and permits of necklet, or rope of pearls being worn to advantage.

The bridal neckline will follow the vogue of importance in this -detall. The bateau-line suits youth, so does the slightly embroi- “ dered rounded shape with the neckline high and draped on the collarless finish. The jewels (also can influence the choice; but for picturesque pageantry I prefer the Medici-like collar, providing the bride is tall and chooses the med- diaeval style of gown, with girdle.

The more usual princess wed- "ding gown is cut in one long line, shaped, but without any form of band or girdle. There may be a train suspended from the shoul- ders instead of being cut in one. With a view to a future "Court," this is a more practical wedding fashion.

The beauty of the Infanta Beat- rice of Spain's ultra-long train

#

was enhanced by a deep border or white ermine, but the average

would probably prefer a nar- rower effect, or possibly an edging of white ostrich. I noticed an effective design in an off-the- white (just tinted pink) "lame splashed with silver that was sim- ply draped to the throat in the front, but from a tiny square ost- rich feathery capelet at the back there came a square train of the same lame edged with an inser- tion of pink feather, hem-stitched on by sliver thread. With

floating veil of palest pink tulle this was a very becoming frack.

Taffeta Vogue

The petite bride of 1935 will be well catered for. For her will be the much-talked-of taffeta-that bouffant sort of ultra-feminine frock with light--and exquisite laces caught here and there by bunches of tülle and floral petals. The faintest tones of blue and of pink may possibly compete with Crepe- the traditional white.

satin and faille suits these new lace, draperies. Taffeta and lace draperies however fascinating will not however, prove so popu- lar $25 the dignified severer streamline elegance,

White falle flaked with silver is a favoured fabric and would make up well in either style. The chif- fon robe, may be a choice of the later season. Chiffon is lovely when velling a satin or taffeta, but the latter has a more old- world flavour. Rosalba crepe, is a new material pleasing" for the bride or her maida;

My advice to the coming bride is to be faithful to a definite bridal scheme and insist firmly on her entourage being likewise! If it is to be a pageant of stately lines and mediaeval magnificence, let the maids. be clothed in fabric of similar trend. On the other hand, should the bride be piquant in the ethereal picturesque trend of the eighteenth or nineteenth century. let her insist on her malds being "bouffant" in taffeta and net, so that the light gay note prevails throughout in colour and mate- rial.

"There is already a great feeling for the taffeta fete and evening frocks. With their fanciful trim- ming and fuller skirts, they are fascinating.

Preview Of The Mode

Capes for day and night, in every length Chiffon for even- ing. Heelless evening "slippers. Dusty pastels for day and sight. Taffeta for sults and "scarfs and

blouses.

ON YOUR HEAD,

TELLING YOU

HOW TO WEAR THE HOMBURG

The Spurst Forward

Sliced crowns or bonnëts? Many of the new crowns are sliced off flat either in front or right off the top. This treatment is par ticularly noticeable in sports hats which have moderately wide brims. The alternative line is the poke bonnet with an upward and forward movement, primarily de- signed to show our fringes. Ani- other new line predicted for.. 'spring is the Breton sailor but wide brimmed, slightly turned up and worn almost at the back of the head,

ROUND YOUR NECK

Bold touches of white will be seen in wool, satin, piqué and what you will. A white dannel blouse, is tied at the neck "with a band of blue and white webbing. A white jersey blouse has a red jersey scarf: a white satin blouse has a high collar composed of black, green and yellow ribbon bands:

another has a dotted scarlet collar. Dickies of white piqué in satin will accompany spring suits. Plaids are to be seen as well-a fringed scarf of plaid satin on a black satin afternoon

gown.

«LIVING 'IN` GLASS

Cinderella is outdone. Cello- phane is the order of the day. We have already seen sandals in multi-coloured Cellophane glass: a hat with a felt crown and transparent brim; a black Cell- phane evening bag and gloves; Cellophane in pink for a sleeve-. less jacket, belted with multi- coloured "flowers; mi yellow for a sash and flowers, with a dark blue evening gown. Transparent al- ·

liances are made: a black tulle

cape on a gleaming yoke; white Cellophane jacket with puffed tulle sleeves.

TAILORED TULLE

Tulle isn't only for frills and fantasies, though we love those tulle ruffs süipping, off the shoul- ders. It is also used for gowns of tallared severity: black net cut with a tight-fitting bodice fasten- ed with diamond buttons and a red velvet bow at the throat: black net over. taffeta, cut into a train, the entire back bare save for one thickness of tulle which also makes wrist-length sleeves; a straight ankle-length tulle gown,. its even hem weighted with a band of sable.

EVENING, SLEEVES

Wrist-length sleeves grace the newest dinner dresses, They are often full only from elbow to wrist. as on @ backless black crépe gown with a red sequin bib high in front; or on a white even- ing gown with a high scarlet col- lar and five scarlet bands bor. dering its raglan sleeves A violet blue satin gown has long tight sleeves and a bolero of rose and blue paillettes. Evening coats show Interesting sleeves too. Horizontal scarlet stitching stripes the raglan sleeves of a purplish- blue satin coat, *-

MONK'S COWL

Several of the new coats have. monk's cows which are worn over the top of the head so that the edge gives a kind of bandeau effect. A long black velvet even ing coat, for instance, with a train and full bell sleeves, has a cowl which frames the wearer's face. A three-quarters pale blue satin evening warp has a cowl in the same satin; sometimes these cowls are lined with a contrasting colour. Even tweed capes are designed with hoods, made either of the same material of of hat fur, DRAWSTRING NECKLINES

You will draw your dress in round your neck as if it were a sponge bag. Sometimes a cord is run through the top and tled at- the back; sometimes the neckline is cut very high so that it stands up under your chin like & ple frill. The peasant blouse idea Jens right through fashionETE capes are made out of a straight piece of material with a cord strung through the top. Evening coats with raglan sleeves, sloping all the way up into high cut neck- lines are held in the same way.

ON YOUR FEET There is a movement to heigh- ten the vamp. Tongues have reappeared on pumps—as in, a black shoe with a double tongue lined with white, or in a black velvet evening pump with a high, dennitely eighteenth century ton-" gue piped with gold kid.. Brillant coloured evening sandals show the influence of the Oxford rather than the Greek sandal--they are toe-less but laced over the foot and have ankle straps. Our sum- mer shoes will be made of far- watch out for this material in all colours.

The boat-shaped toque is mak- ing a dash forward. In doing this, the movement is accentuated by a quili, ostrich feather tip, or ribbon" bow, shot through the apex of the crown. These motifs He fat, and it is only when the Watteau and Manon shapes appear that trimmings actually take a perky attitude,

The former shape is almost true to type, and one in organdie "straw" that is to say, organdie plated to look like pallasson, has a flower of white cellophane emphasising the back brimmed perch.

.

The "Manon” is dat-topped and elongated, with a slight bend in the middle showing an apex ...OFTRMON É

nacré of two flower-heads in two tones of pink set back to back on, black aid a strap terminating in a bow to keep it on.

Cork in the form of ribbon wends its way round the crown of a navy blue felt "Homburg,” the 1935 "Homburg" with a sup- pressed crown, and worn in the correct forward way. New trim- mings are in nacré, and, there are cellophane Boral motlis and Cupid wings There is one boat- shaped toque style of glistening blue cellophane straw with pink moss roses set at one side of the back uplift.

Reeds worked up into rounds on taffeta are another ́ices: In trimming for a shape that hag a low crown and lop-sided. brim aspect. The clerical biretta sup- plants the tricorne in small and wide shapes. One in the latter group pitches the brim. forward and aff with short levers. up, at the ide. This is a new form for tailored hat lines, while Jane Austen might have invoked a little sporting shape of felt with a short brim turning up all

Crown round beneath a round and above a chin strap.

JEWELLERY AGAIN

The Clip And The Locket

With

the increasingly high necks the bead necklace at ~ pence a time is waning in po- pularity. · Real stones-jade, coral, especially white or mate-

round ly necks or round necks made of stuff. The silver locket used to be an immense affair in which one could wear a photo-

opposite side, a plece of his hair. Sametimes the hair belonged to a late lamented and the locket wás- passed on and inherited, " and terrible complications arose when one did not remember exactly whose hair 15 was. Lockets are now made of moonlike pleces or looking-glass." - They hang from a chain of sparkling beads to match, which, however, do not detract from the glories of the

riale such as ivory are still yel-graph of the beloved with, on the comed, but mere glass is yielding not only to crystal, amethyst amber marquisite but also to an entirely new form of jewellery The many scarves worn. easily become displaced, and as they often take the place of collars or neckpieces generally F is important to keep them in position. For this purpose clasps are used, usual diamante or of bright metal. If the scarf is tied high round the neck one clip ocket. · Lockets must be abfny. holds one side of the scarf high. They must make a

up while the other hold, it on the patc

other side lower down.

Thus

dress

elips almost serve the origi

purpose oftebins

may have a clip wh

stinctive

an otherwise plain,

Finally, the earring haa

the

Fashion Ignores The Waist

FROCKS FOR THE OLDER WOMAN

Why are you (80 - Ung

to the woman of

Tittle ashamed of her

a reader.

"Surely

wrote the there

must

some

nds that are >would

they are very hard

for the

Mayo's

HOPPE

HONG KONG

Smart Spring Models

Hats. Bleached and Remodelled to shape.

any

Just like New.s

South Arcade, Gloucester Building.

THE CAMEO BEAUTY SALON

Phone 33622

END CURLS

or

WAVES

IF YOUR HAIR is a trifle straggly You Need Not Go to the expense- of a full permanent An- -end curl or wave will do priced $10.00 and up.

1st Floor, Gloucester Building,

LONDON FASHIONS

Variety In Hats

High-crowned hats are more and more reserved for the mor- ning; of soft woollen materials to match a sult, the brims are" finished with many rows of stitching or with wool embrof- dery: Soft felt makes a hat with

well forward, lightly pointed and trimmed with

little. tuft of black feathers at the tip, is to be worn with a plain black frock. A black velvet pill-box hat, also to be worn with a plain black afternoon gown, has co-

a fared circular brim and-point-loured tassels, two in shades of

the hair at each side.

ed crown; a small tassel falls green and one in red, falling over from the tip and repeats the colour of the scarf or blouse A hat to be worn with a suit of cinnamon-brown and blouse of duck's-egg-blue with a tuck-in scarf is in a similar blue and has a rolled double brim -and crown dented in front; a small brown feather nestles in the fold in front, and there is a short brown eye veil of horsehair.

For more formal wear there will be little low hats, often of Lelt, round or oval and tipped forward over the right eye and with a touch of trimming" or a short vell of horsehair standing out Height is suggested by the folds, and trimming may be given by cellophane embroidery or thickly padded borders. A small pil-box cap is made of plaited black felt and cellophane here a stiffened vel stands well out:

There will be early spring tur- bans of bright velvet or crêpe to go with formal afternoon dresses. A ruby-red velvet toque tipped

Taffetas plain and cloqué is another hat material. A small hat with close-fitting-crown and long visor front with a slightly one-sided effect is of fuchsia and Due checked taffetas; the flaring scarf is of the same taffetas, and the narrow, ends Join with small how at the back.

Wille the line will be off the fare, the brim will be turned back more to one side and more widely faring. There are also bonnet effects which may be cut to nothing at the back and Dare- away from the face infront The line of the brim, plain or softly gathered, is often liftel to show the forehead and some of the hair. Brimmed hats, as light as a feather, are made of plain and cloqué taffetas, with up- standing folds and pleats to give width to the base of the crown and stitched and padded edges to soften the brim.

fing place and

point of light

like the old brooches:

and brooc

coming

Cofetying