1935-01-04 — Page 3

Page

Spring

FASHIONS

PARIS FASHIONS

to

Some Accepted Styles

(From a Correspondent)

All the clothes worn in Berg- stein's new play, "Espoir," point the fashion of short, slim morning skirts, long afternoon skirts, and long and full evening skirts.

Mlle. Dorziat, dressed by Moly- neux, appears first in a sapphire- blue crêpe evening dress which fts the hips and swells to a wide flounce; the bodice is low at the back and high in front. Later on she wears a morning dress of buff-coloured crêpe; the skirt is long and full, and the three- quarter-sleeved bodice fits easily. Lastly she appears in a formal dark green long-sleeved velvet afternoon dress, a three-quarter Jacket, and a small velvet toque.

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Mlle. Renée Devillers, who plays as a young giri, is dressed by Lucile Paray, at first in white cloké crêpe dress; the open back of the bodice has two wing- like revers and the skirt slim and long, and fuller at the back than elsewhere. Afterwards she wears a tight-fitting dress with a short black woollen crêpe skirt; the bodice is open worked in a pattern Lastly her dress and cape are of black velvet, with a whlte satin and velvet neck-tie and toque. Mlle. Lucy Leger, dressed by Marcel Rochas, as a girl given over to sport, wears an evening dress of broad black and white silk stripes, with a full skirt; a short and slim yellow- green woollen dress; and a loose brown woollen cost and skirt, a. white blouse with a draped beret.

Treatment of Firs

Mme. Leroy is showing some beautiful furs.She treats them by tucking the shoulders of an ermine cape, by curving bands of silver fox from shoulder to waist- line, and by gathering shaved, grey lambes if the sleeves of a long coat were not of fur but of.. velvet Her short black astrak-, han capes are fitted with inner sleeves and little waistcoats

which fasten close and hold the. capes in place about the shoul- dera, to which they are shaped. She also makes, three-quarter length sealskin coats with wide sleeves and arm-holes and straight backs. She tucks and gethers the fur in a way 24, 10-

the

leave it lying flat and shaped to to the shoulders, and at neck line she lets it loose to form a little flounce collar, soft enough to Be flat but crisp enough to stand up round the head and throat.

M

In the big shops, there are ready-made dresses and coats. simple afternoon dresses of silk crêpe, and evening dresses of crêpe, satin, or velvet, which fol- low the fashions of the rue de la Paix without infringing copy- right. Draped necklines, full sleeves above the elbow, slim hips." and wide hem lines are general With capes, collars, deeves and bows shoulder-width is softly emphasized. Hats.are perched

Reboux makes

on elaborately arranged hair. Agnès has made & new little salor hat with a narrow brim and a crown of some height. bonnet shapes with softly draped brims and, moulded crowns- fashion which demands soft but not un- substantial materials, such as and

suède felt, stitched taletas satin, and bruld straws. Vells are either short or long and loose.

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, JANUARY 4, 1935.

BUTTONS FOR DECORATION

Forecasts indicate that dresses and coats are to be more decorat ed next year. Buttons are to play a big part in the scheme. In the button department of a large shop the other day there were dozens of people clamouring for one, two and three dozen buttons.

I did, not hear anyone ask for

less than a dozen.

And there were all kinds on show. The most favoured were" glass-plain and engraved.".

Dull silver was another popular choke, and then followed chrom- lum and gilt.

The buttons were in every con- ceivable shape, size and design round, square, oblong, log, hexa- gon and various unusual designs. For belt fastening there were huge hooks and eyes-two and three inches in size.

Initials were not quite so popu- lar as they were, I hunted for chromium initials in vain. All I could find were small initials. made of mirror glass. N

As I have mentioned before, anchor decorations look like being extremely popular on the spring fashions.

These are obtainable in gilt or chromium.

Trimmings made of fabric are also going to be worn.

Cora covered in fabric cable fashion-stitched down in quilted design is used on some New Year frocks,

Lots of stitching is being shown in Faris on hems, collars and

cuts of the new dresses.

Paris Dress Collections

In his half-season collection, Jean Paton has a series of little afternoon-dresses in black satin and black crinklad crêpe, with touches of white about the front of the bodices and at the wrists of long-fitting, sleeves, which are altogether, charming in their sim- plicity and tailored neatness.".

The slender sklits hang' për-earlier in the season. fectly to mid-way between knee and Ankle, the walatline is out- lined by a flat belt about two, in- ches wide. This line rises a little in front and dips slightly behind а do the lines of "any bodice drapery. Neck draperies do the

The afternoon dresses are made with long sleeves. either tight fitting to the writs, or full with the fullness drawn back from the front to look like capes when seen sideways or from behind. - The skirts have fullness in front and flag backs. They are slight ly shorter than those made

same,

"Black dominates the collection, with white or colour introduced in different ways about a dress todice, as when a black moiré Cress has apple green satin fold- ed about the waist to show below a bolero, and when a black satin skirt is worn with in apple green, low-cut bodice made of folded ribbon, over which goes a trans- parent black lace bodice with long sleeves and high neck.

Shorter Evening Gowns Black silk and sath skirts and jackets are worn with soft white chiffon blouses embroidered in sulver, and also with orange chiffon blousës.

Big smoky fox collars trim the shoulders of long black cloth coats.

Evening dresses are made with- out trains and ty miss the ground They are usually black, either crêpe, satin, or moiré, and many of them have the skirt slit up at the back as far as the knees.

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The bodices of Ittle dinner dresses are made with full slee- ves, long or to the elbow, high fri fnt and low cut at the back

Quite a feature, in the collec-- tion is that of the informal din- ner dress. These do not touch the ground are only slightly thế- colleté, and have elbow sleeves, fully draped. In deep purple, in browni, in black, worn with bright jewels, these trocks are tempting as being easy to wear and very graceful in line..

The formal dresses have all the dignity and touch of splendour which come with lovely materials, rich colours, and long trailing lines.

Suits with a Flare

There are some very well tällor- ed coats and skirts with slightly flared basques and pockets on the hips. Under the jackets go neat shirt waist blouses or warın woollen jumpers with soarves to match. These are knitted or crocheted in coarse wool, and the scarves are wound about the neck and shoulders clumsily,..

Cheerful tweeds checked, speckled, and plaided-are used for sport and walking ensembles; black crêpes for the afternoon, and for the evening, crêpes, jer- seys, satin in colours, dark and clearan

There is not much, trimming, fewer sparkles, and no lamé. The whole collection shows fine work- manship and is in good style.

Mayo's

HONGKONG

HOPPE

NEW FUR FELTS

to be MADE up

AND

EVENING HATS Made to suit your individual taste..

Mae West

South Arcade,

Gloucester Building.

West Leads The

Fashions

Like screen stories fashions are largely a matter of cycles. Modes, such as those of the Second Em- pire, the Victorian," the Edwardian and the late pre-war eras, have a habit of cropping up nowadays in a thousand little refinements on qur modern styles

The wheel has now turned. cound again, and we are due for a revival of the "Gibson Girl" fashions. - Mae West, of course,

the originator, for, while she was still only half-way through the filming of BELLE OF THE NINETIES, her

costumes had,

given clues to the modistes of America, England and Paris-

Lacy ruffles, low décolletage, brillant embroidery in full-length designs, feathers, frills, vella.... these will be the features of the new cycle.

The heart-shaped decolletage, which Mae West wears in several of her costumes in BELLE OF

Another type of dress for the SHORTER COATS THE NINETIES, will be a stern

evening has a full skirt, a round ? low neckline, a fichu bodice, and short full sleeves, with rosès set in the fichu front, no dress could. look more demure and womanly in the old-fashioned sense of the word

semise

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evening wraps in velvet, in satin, Paton also shows a tow good and in fur.

With a violet dress he puts a long, black satin cape lined with violet velvet and draped to Good finishing. “with a tassel. for travelling and several neat There are some good tweed coats, "little morning frocks which are

right for town, or country.

The whole collection is in the best tradition of French dress malding an

In the Lucien Lelong collection there is also a good deal of black, but more color than Paton uses. The Lelong line is slender, with a suggestion of trimming about the hips. In some dresses he gets a swallowtail line, ip others a

Mother-of-peart clips are used long basque with a fare at the

on black tracks and belts,

White enamel ornamenta de corate navy clothes in

edge. Hd-"makes little jacket bodices to go with evening skirts; as well as for morning.

FOR EVENING

Dark Emerald Green Velvet

If you are getting a new frock here are a few details about ad- vante fashions which will help you to acquire something which may be fashionable. for many months to come,

A great deal of dark emerald green velvet is to be used for frocks and evening coats in the spring.

Evening coats are shorter- many are barely day length:

Extremely low at the back, very high in the front is the "line" indicated by one world-renowned designer."

ах

Another dressmaker with equally famous name shows en- ormous pierrot ruffles

An example of this was a viclet crepe de Chine gown with one of these monster ruffles in, violet tule. There was a short tulle capelet of the tulle.

combatant against the high- necked phase. One of her film gowns already used for a new model is in pink tulle, and has this low neckline outlined in mas- sive pink satin roses. With it may be worn

a large picture hat of pink tulle

Black Velvet. Billant embroidery will be used in most of the adaptationis from the Mae West collection. One gorgeous black,,velvet crea- tion is shown in the film and, the experts say, will need no finish- ing touches.It has diamond leaves embroidered in a diagonal pattem. which gives a lavish effect.

The gown is designed in the off-shoulder manner of the period, and has the smallest puff- sleeve in the whole of fashion history.

Two important features of this new trend will be the generous use of ostrich feathers and aigret- tes for both millinery and fans. One Paris stylist, with the ""Glb- son" era in view, has evenTM zone so far as to design a huge white ostrich fan and build a costums: round it!.

"DECEITFUL” NECKLINES. This is a season for deceit, at least in fashions. Travis Banton, famous Paramount stylist,

Crandle is being used again ex-stressing in his new models the tensively. For the evening it is

neckline which looks as though silk

it is unfastened.

One in black slik organdie had a wide band of white organdie at the hem and another at the short sleeves. There was a narrow pips ing of bright red to separate the white and black.

If you choose something with

a piping on it you cannot go fár Wrong.

'Pipings are very much in evid- ence.

Some of the big people in the dresamaking world show stiver. pipings and belts of the allver,

Even the seams of some frocks are piped.

Coloured linings appear inside capes, especially those made of fur or feathers.

On one frock of black crepe de Chine, an afternoon one, there were bright emerald green crepe collar and cuffs, and the black broadtail cape 78s Uned with em- erald.

The slit pockets on the skirt of a the frock were lined with green. with just a narrow line of the green appearing aboye the alit another sign of these piping times

With three-

Palest yellow evening frocks are "In the picture" too. Uusual-' ly these are worn quarter-length coats to match, trimmed with sequins.

Tametes is to be fashionable for evening wear. 8o,, is mousseline de note with floral wreath trid-

It is supposed to be worn, that, - way with a wisp of a scarf or kerchief tied or tucked round the throat. Marlene Dietrich, wimse

next Paramount picture is CAR- NIVAL IN SPAIN, is wearing a frock of white crepe with a navy blue scart which follows this idea,

THE TUNIC BRIGADE Evelyn Venable, who appears in Paramount's DOUBLE DOOR, bas Joined the Hollywood tunic brigade. Smartness and economy will cer- tainly go together if women foi- low her lead and get a skirt which can be worn with several types of tunic or blouse for every kind of event.

One particularly lovely tunto in Evelyn's wardrobe is of white rib- bed crepe with a silver accent in the fabric. The waist is mould- ed at a high princess pomt, and below the waist the tunic is cut in circular fashion with points in the centre front and back,

"TWO-FAC

-FACED FABRICS. Two-toned fabrics are back, and right in the centre of the fas- hion spotlight. Travis Bantoncis creating a formal gown for Ellaşa Landi, who

appears in Para-. mount's THE GREAT FLIRTA- TION, and is using a beautiful black satin with a bright green on -the reverse side.

-The black predominates, of course, but the skirt is built with fullness towards the back and shows the colourful lining..

Round each shoulder, in a sin- gle flounce, the green shows again,

FOR THE EARS. Claudette Colbert, Paramount star of CLEOPATRA and THE GILDED LILY, has set Hollywood admiring with her new substitute, for earrings.

Miss Colbert' wears clips in gold and saver fligree or enamel, which cover the whole edge of the ear from tip to to loge,

CAROLE'S NEW FROCK. Carole Lombard, soon to be seen with George Raft in Paramount's RHUMBA is acknowledged as one of

Hollywood's most smartly dressed stars, and she has scored again by the acquisition of a dashing street frock in black velvet,

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The dress is made in coat fas- hion and has long sleeves which widen towards the wrist. About mammoth cuffs and serve as the 12 inches of white Irish lace form. sole adornment for this ultra- smart outfit

With this model Carole wears a becoming toque of black velvet, and adds a narrow belt of gold

High Waists In

Empire Style

Will backless dresses disappear. from the wardrobes of fashion able women?

In many of the Paris mid-sea- voted their energies to produc- son collections designers have de

ing dresses capable of doing duty ant gowns. The amount of back. as afternoon, cinema, or restaur- visible in such dresses in neces sarily small.

Women, are demanding clothes that. serve more than one-púr- pose. Paris considers that ela- borate backless evening gowns are suitable only for very, formal oc- casions.

A typical general purposes model," I was told consists of aplain blue sleeveless dreas with the tunic trimed with fringe made; from the strands of the material.

Long Blebyek Worn with a short blue Tru trimmied cape,

frock

Joined

A Pair of long

The

to the arrival of the informal Trains are shorter. This is due

evening gown.

Great attention is devoted to sleeves. These are looped, drap ed, "scooped out in front, it tight- to the wrist, or are huge balloon like affairs in which the lower Other features of mi-season part of the arm rests sa in a sling:

fashions are evening gowns with waists as high as those of the

Empire" period.

Batins stitched with silver or gold in small squares to give a quilted effect, a new colophane material which has all the appear- the weight, and the use of supple ance of a beaded fabric without gold or silver kid (used as rings and belt fastenings) to replace the metal ornaments, which have. been extensively used

Temain

o'not