1934-11-16 — Page 3

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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 1934.

FOR QUALITY SILK FABRICS

AND.

HOSIERY

ALWAYS

SHOP AT

THE BEST & GREATEST

SILK STORE

IN THE COLON Y

HARIRAM'S

SILK STORE

48, QUEEN'S ROAD, HONG KONG 51, NATHAN ROAD, KOWLOON.

FASHION'S NEW DIVIDING LINE ®

Distinctive Dresses

And Demi-

For Day And

Toilette

As was the case a quarter of a century ago, a marked line is be- ing drawn between the more for- mal trend of dress and the tailor- made.

The difference between the old and the new treatment of both is very interesting." The modern frocks are less formal and entire- ly "comfortable, and the tailor- mades equally smart but often

логе

expensive. Possibly the compromise for limited incomes to-day is the ensemble-that is to say, there is the "little, dress" and the long semi-talióred coat.

This ensemble, with the care- fully thought-out details, is # more recent mode of dressing and is more usually adopted by the

average woman.

She, however, will be able to make up her requirement for sport and country clothes with

the new and attractive Knitted variety.

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Still, this newer formality must be taken into consideration.

BETTER DRESSING

Another and most important point is that the changes indicate a real Improvement in industry In every phase of fashion goods.

The new way of dressing is to aim at the finished product as ari entire whole. This idea was for mulated over a hundred years ago, but was then only possible for

a very limited section of society. To-day practically women have their opportunity.

At the moment the more formal. styles for afternoon and evening. which include very beautiful furs, are of somewhat luxurious trend.

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The satins or velvets for after- noon show the shorter skirt, very tight and slim, therefore тепе- rally allt at the hem. The blouse- bodice often demonstrates the Russian influence. Very often the some attractive tunica are choice.

4:

A dark green satin tight skirt ent to the ankles and slit in two

places had a tunle of a green Jamé woven with a faint thread. in gold. green and silver, this pouched slightly over a belt. of the satin. The neck-line was squarely draped with a scart of the same. This type of frock could be worn under a furor darkest green velvet coat with a turban to match

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Such fabrics indicate a certain amount of formality.

Just as much worn, and more generally useful and the favourite vogue for London and Paris, are the simple black wool frocks There are often relieved with white or a light colour, or else a display of fine hand-work. Other very dark colours may ring the changes, and occasionally, "the newer sparkling but subdued material is introduced as well,

This is as practical and safe a mode of dressing, as black, as any

nicely fashioned, dark frocks look so well in whiter under cloth or fur coats. The clever woman can always add her Individual and" becoming detail of white lingerie in a jabot or colour in a scarf and waistbelt..

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Bome of the little wool after- noon dresses can also be admir- ably adapted to du duty for din- ner, theatre or cinema, for they look very well, worn with a hat. The smarter ones may also be t bright colours, but in wool fab- rics, Practical requirements for a London winter, however, gera. rally 'demand the darker shades, and what brightness is "desired. comes from the new gleams In materials and trimmings. Many of there afternoon and Simple dinner dresses show long-fitted sleeves, which are becoming and cosy. Neck-ines can be varied to suit the individual.

For cut and formality the ex- clusive "tafleurs" revert to the more perfected styles of last cen- tury. The coats are more be- comingly and easily cut but they mark a definite waist-line and much detailed, workmanship.

Some youthful short coats show a seamed inward-fited look. Mány, longer ones have a basque, and spring out in the old manner. skirts are all tight, trim, and shorter, with slit hems unless there is a well-pressed under pleat-

MORE ELABORATE BLOUSES

Blouses are worn, and far more elaborately fashioned than We have been used to of late. Co- loured blouses are smarter than the white, unless for the country. The heavy silk talfored shirt

SURPRISES AND REVIVALS

In Winter

There is much of the old elegance as well as modern dar- ing about many phases of the winter modes. Quite differing styles are chosen for mornings" and afternoons. The designers have stood out for a marked difference between the essentially practical and that more leisured. elegant note that has been creep- ing in for some time. This is a return to the Edwardian and late but Victorian way, of dressing, with a

or difference. Sporting country suits and ensembles for mornings and hard wear, includ- ing wet weather clothes, are as chic as velvet and feathers for afternoons.

Materials can be divided of combined into uses or both. Cord- ed velvet is delightful for the small sporting sort of hat with its nacktle to match, Felt can be fitted with a dented crown to wear with a hard type of coat. and skirt.

The pill-box toque is one of the smartest of the new models for autumn.

has Princess Marina made it popular, though it is not eary to wear unless trimming and angle are carefully adjusted.

No phase of millinery fashion was ever more flattering than the eighteenth-century modes in

shares popularity with the skil-bats, the three-cornered creation fully knit new jumpers. The most chle of the new tollored sults are in the familiar black, darkest grey, and possibly a dark brown and green. They are worn with a "fox tle of some expensive new fur collarette, with a possibly elaborate toque of velvet and fur, of one of the new felt to match the coloured blouse.

in velvet and feathers that sat so charmingly on softly waved curls Yet the tricorne' can be simple -enough for mornings, as well as the perfect completion to an afternoon ensemble of rich velvet and fur. In felt, with a single wing or a bow, it disarmingly simple with a piquant tilt.

Gloves and shoes must work in with the scheme of dressing, not omitting such details as pochette, buttonhole, belt, and pocket- handkerchief.

Modern dressing, if it is to at- tain the correct new standard, is à strenuous affair. Money alone will not achieve the correct result. Taste, and knowledge of the nt ness of things, must come into

All sorts of varieties in the old coaching... styles--late eighteenth and early nineteenth century shapes are interesting this "sea- son. The Robespierre hard squarecrown is clever in feit, or in dark velours. The later boat- shape, with narrow curling brim: a quill at the side of a dented Sombreros is piquant. that can be large enough for sun or small enough to recall a one," side cloche are worn.

crown

the scheme. The wearer of fallofre are high crowns and

mades must choose the right ac- cessories to add the more 'decora- tive details of current fashion. She must know exactly when and Where to wear the per fected dark suit or the more sporting teed.

Chip off the Old Block "Then there was the plumber's daughter who went to church without her bridal vell-"

Yes, and had to go. back for her tulle!"

Neighbourhood Mathematics

Teacher: "Let us say that you have 10 appica. The boy across

There shallow ones, but brims all tend to go up at the back. The new it is all forward, and this one can safely predict to last over the winter. It goes so well with the high collars of fur,

Für trims millinery as well as dresses. The Cossack cap, with a crown' of grey astrakan mixed" with navy cloth, is a smart and distinctive vogue, to complete ⠀ a: navy wool tunic banded, with the fur, and a double cape collar and muff all of the grey astrakan

Grey gloves, pochette, and grey shoes will further ensure the suc- cess of a luncheon ensemble, Per- haps an additional feminine Ed-

the street comes over and takes wardian touch will be added by a five of them what have you left?"cluster of shaded violets orchid

Pupil The five smallest ones." "restling in the for

THE AFTERNOON

NOTE

Between Luncheon

And Tea

The afternoon dress is at once a necessity and 遽 difficulty. While certain periods of the day are definitely covered by a sports frock or sult, or by an evening frock, the afternoon is compre- hensive in character and at one extreme overlaps Into sports, clo- thes and at the other into even- ing frocks.. Thus while a smartly cut woollen frock may be perfect- ly suited for the sports end, of the scale, it is wrong as soon as days beginto close in and rooms grow hot. Equally, the satin or crepe dress which can be worn on into the evenings on occasion, is not suitable for lunch, unless made severely to conform by means of a coat. When one speaks; therefore, of the after- noon frock one really means a trinity-af frocks which only the greates: good managment tombine in one.

Mavo's

HOPPE

HINH KONG

Smart and Dressy

HATS

for All Occasions.

OLD HATS REMODELLED

AND

MADE TO LOOK" LIKE NEW.

South Arcade.

can

"RIGALL

The Lelong dress of navy rough. wool, buttoning down the front, is lent its air of sophistication by means of the white grosgrain neckpiece and cuffs, both of which carry on the buttoned idea. With the Suzy hat, a sort of cross be- tween a beret and a marquis hat, It is perfectly suited for lunch and onwards through the after- HOOR.

The surface roughness of the material,"combined with the rich white of the fittings, makes that sort of contrast which is ef- fective because it looks simple but is not. It should be noted, fur- ther, that the only exaggeration is this very roughness and that, in contradiction to many head-

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dresses, the hair is severe and neat and the hat the reverse of meny of the fantasies worn as being fashionable. About tea-time this kind of dress would begin to look and feel hot. Its place would then be taken by another which could also have been warn at lunch-time.

The next kind of afternoon frock would be suitable for a well- dressed luncheon and one to which the wearer would go with- out any preliminary morning avo- cations. This would be either a tunic dress or one perhaps with a narrow, slightly slashed skirt, both or either being made of vel- vet, cloque; thick silk crepe, or satin, The material marks the différences acutely. The velvet or velveteen frock with a tunic which looks almost like a double, skirt would make for extreme alimness in the skirt, emphasising this up means of huge armholes with cor- respondingly big sleeves. A small, square neck, reaching to the base of the throat, might develop into a square white Inset reaching to the broad belt. Or a round at the base of the neck might be broken by a waterfall of white or fluting of white, standing on its edge m- der the chin, as though it were ribbon looped. White patches winter everywhere relieve the

afternoon frock, If there is & deep rectangular inset in front, rather like a skirt bosom. It is often divided into two sections by means of the bodice which but tons all up the front. This sort of dreas reaches to just above the ankle, and is convenient and at the same time ceremonial in ap- pearance.

Long Skirts

Y

The third afternoon dress Jay- ours much of the evening. It reaches to the ankles or may even be longer. It may take such forma as a long straight skirt, split one side, with a sort of Magyar bodice.. without sleeves. The Magyar ef- fect is much exaggerated and often includes a cowl effect at the back and sometimes much dra- pery across the throat, which is then carried back over the shoul-

·ders and down to the waist, leav ing a small V at the nape of the neck. Or a alim, long skirt of vel- vet may have a long tule of metal with sleeves, to just above the el- bows, and with the material dra- pad round the square neck. Here no belt is worn, and the tunic ts the figura fairly closely. Finally there is the ground length even- ing black trock, over which a

close-atting, short allver or lame jacket is worn, with tight sleeves and with buttons all down, the front This afternoon-frock can become evening at a moment's actice.

Walte

The "Gost

you a menu Jet.

they given

Dinerwearily) Yes but.. anished that an hour ago

Gloucester Building.

LES FLEURS

de RICAUD

the delicate flagrance of your favorite flower

ROSE · JASMINE SWEET PEA LILAC ~ CARNATION JACINTH, ETC.

AGENTS VICENTE ATIENZA & C°, No 54, NATHAN ROAD, KOWLOON - TEL, 57135

PEASANT MODES

NEW TRENDS FROM THE

BALKANS

The peasant influence in mid- -season clothes attacks both Dir- One ectoire and "streamlines." new model cast on the former plan, however, is most alluring in black satin crepe. It has a split "down one side of a slim, slightly trained skirt, and a swathed belt of light dahlia purple outlined with silver. Two other gowns showing this swathed' theme to -great advantage ate in amethyst crepe with the new vaguely ga- thered deep flounced hemline, and crinkled crepe belt shading from .deep cerise to pale pink, and a champagne coloured satin. model with a lime green swathe. A slack mink coat with pelts worked up on "diagonal instead of straight lines was shown over this gown.

A peasant model in velvet is a very becoming wrap that swag- gers differently from the "coolie" shape. That is to say, the style has been brought nearer West and takes us into the Balkans, where national peasant styles have ga- thered necklines to thigh-length coats which sometimes sway to hang into the merest gathers from a yoke at the back. The model may be with or without sleeves. The latter tendency. brings a new caped vogue.

Studied Simplicity

COLOURS FOR

DULL DAYS

When the sun shines is the time when the harmony of colour: 'In rooms is put to the most severe. .test.

This observation was made by someone, but it is not always true. of colour, so if the colours In- room are carefully thought out and judiciously arranged the sun- Light wil help the effect by 50 per cent. But if the colours have been arranged by an incompetant. hand sunlight will have the op- posite effect.

This new simplicity is not so easy to acquire as one imagines. Proportions must be calculated on a mathematical scale so that. these garments look not more or less but exactly right. This, like- wise, applies to the new bloused corsage with gathered peasant de- collete for a gown of "rust red crepe faintly lame with gold. It is for wear under a light autumn yellow caped-coat of heavy mat sliken crepe, with neckline to "tally. Bloused backs, too, break up the streamline notion, one be- ing executed into an otherwise plain gown which is in a lovely tone of cerulean blue. Two large. rust brown and yellow chrysant beums are set at the waist-line.

Corsage seem easier, even when not bloused, but with the fiat Achu cross-over" pointing ›front and back. In one instance white crepe satin shows the movement with solvedge border under a wide-sleeved bolere coates of for toiseshell "brown paillettes. "The skirt hangs on a perfectly straight simple line, with a short sun-tay godet inserted at the back for ease of movement.

The flounced hemline brings a time. has also to be considered new charm to otherwise plain very different effect may be pra evening skirts. It commences to duced it great care is not exer now from beneath knee depth, cised in selecting the right but is carefully gauged so as not

Certain reds will stanz to break continuity of Bine, and sunlight and artificial light. may be merely set at the back. If of the Antwerp varieta

The Cossack style is considerab-right both by day and nig ly improved for day wear in a blues with the cobalt model with peasant details. It them tend to turn grey or is in dark brown woollen-the coat with gathered back hanging from a yoke, and the skirt gather ed in similar fashion. In front to hang from a yoke. A "binder belt of rust red, and choke col Jar faced with the contrast, help to form a most astructive

It is not at all an easy thing to blend colours walch w 2005 attractive In a room into which the sun is not shining, and which will look equally well under the sun's searching rays. for the artificial light of evening

.

under artificial light- especially noticeable in thick plle. This cobalt colo looks beautiful by day, but dis appointing by night. Browns in most cases, show up bet artificial light than in especially if the ma be's damask