1934-09-14 — Page 3

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VELVET AND VELVETEEN

As Fashion Leaders

Every phase in autumn and winter fashions is exciting, and days are approaching when we must think of meeting that first sensation of crispness in the air with a certain amount of jump- ing off warm comfort

Remember, however there are many more new phases on their way. Paris designers are sug- gesting straight coats at hip and half level id coloured velveteen.. bound round with black military braid:

They have short splità" at either side of backs, and one in red is modelled for wear over a black dress with red velvet belt. This particular coat outline comes again in green or black, with the idea of helping you to get to work on other contrasting two coloured schemes.

Cravat Sük

Cravat silk is not yet shelved, and is to the fore in muffer tles with belts on lainage frocks, "but it must show stripes served up on the diagonal in only one tone or contrast on a plain colour.

These motifs are replaced by molre or

satin, both of which usually show off the contrasting material in black on mat black. Maybe a bright colour will occur -In-frocks that are "worn with" caped-back hip-length coatees, Baftened across the front by the belt passing over a single centre front opening. Tweed- ensembles of skirt and full-length coats showing this flowing back caped movement are

trend for

blouses. One of scarlet matches a felt hat to go with the fleek- in black tweed

Imagine this vivid note next autunnin leaf tints of green, brown and yellow. A hiplength cape in plain green over a green

The jackets beautifully tailor- ed on the simplest classic line with a single-button "walst 125- tening and 'a short stand-up collar cut in one to just stand away from the neck and skirt. with four goffered flutings set at equal distance to giveem- phasis to a slightly bell-shaped skirt. A, velvet how muffler in a tone of inid-rust fills in the neck- line to add zest to a suit of dark- brown tweed completed by a brown jersey blausa

SHA Sük Velvet

4.

Bince early autumn is sure to lead up to blouse items a new style In stiff silk velvet should be noted. It shows a fresh move- ment, replacing the erstwhle bow tle fashion of plaid taffetas through two big loops jutting. forward at either side.

These festen down the front on to green prystal buttons to match the velvet. This contrast in colour and fabric makes a charming note for a brown tweed suit flecked red and white. Brown again stresses a contrast next to a light yellow masturtium velvet blouse of the same type, showing deeper yellow for the looped neck- fine. Then the scene changes from stiff silk velvet to black chenille velvet_for_petunia_scar- let and white flecked tweed mix- ture suits, the blouses having short sleeves and centre-back fastenings.

This soft all-over plushy sur- faced velvet is an entirely new departure for blouses, together with another plushed corduroy rib variety in deepest brown for B plain russet yellow skirt and coat.

check Jainage Jumper-Jacket THE SEASON OF

dress, with the cape this time having a double-breasted fasten- ing with side splits cut up from its hem to allow the hands to- nestle comfortably in an elongat- ed barrel-shaped muff of the plain green lainage is another idea. This singular cape. Ine is an excellent one for Alaska seal, astrakhan, beaver and Persian lamb.

Hip Length Coates Another idea which you might like to start off with is the longer than hip length coatee. model, made from velveteen with a less vague caped line, slipped into pinaforewise with the opening extending from nape in length. This is an innovation for early. autumn days and, give back waist ties of a certain length to wind and tle at the wait simulates the cossack "style.

Capelets sound like a perpetual repetition but they look different somehow in furs such as beaver, loutre and Alaska seal. Lucien Lelong makes a model of beaver apilt up the back and closed in front for wear over a green wool- len dress and black musquash tor wear on a dark amethyst frock.

Un

41

8ome of these frocks show bloused back waistlines portray- ing very wide armholes easing up closer fitted bodice linea These effects might apply to a new type of bolero jacket - which is grippped to the figure in front. Capelets, however, seem pre- ferable because they will

5 colarettes

coats later

serve to collarless the on in is R favourite autumn dress items,

season. Ocelot

for early

and Lelong welds it into a chemisier front and polo collar for a rust brown lainage dress and jacket ensemble.

Tweed. Skirt

"A grey and brown mixture tweed skirt and cape with plain. dark brown jumper jacket is smart; also a plain stone « grey sult with the Jumper closing right up to the neckline from where flat black revers fall down elther side under a black coat.

Woollens in plain greys and dark blues, amethyst and navy. tweeds with Eghter. turquoise

: blue bring varlėty' to sutumn tints for suits.

Blouses of the darker colour in plain jersey or light-weight Lainage usually follow in flat high-fronted short "or long sleeved tuck-in styles sometimes fastened down the back Dark grey and amethyst is among the new tweed mixtures and makes an excellent impression with plain amethyst "Jersey tuck-in:

ACCESSORIES

Novelties That Can Help

--:;

In fashion it is the little things that count. This especially ap- plies in this era of accessories that have so much to do with the correct assembling of all clothes worthy of distinction.

There are several new trende that will bring existing clothes up-to-date. Hats come first, Light felts in new autuma Co- lours show a tendency to come well down .over the forehead with a back tilt and 'à felt or ribbon bow. A more "dressed"

felt in grey or green can have wide wings across the back or even a bird fantasy. The newest berets of cloth or tweed are large, well-fitting, intriguingly draped, and worn well on one side. Dres- aler types are in panne or fr cloth. In the country and for travel bright coloured hats are worn with dark suits or dresses.

Many of the newest tallored skirts for Goodwood and Cowes are slit up one side. They seem shorter, neat, and trim, and are moulded to the figure.

fre

Capes get longer 'and will ap- pear in fur. feathers, cloth and tweed. Some capes,

fitted on the shoulders,

added to the top-coats of autumn. Fur Some capes will be luxurious.

"swirling." are short

and very For evening, they are effective.

Spots and checks will continue. in panne and cloth as well as crepes and linens worn on the. continent.

Chocolate-brown, tomato, deep Virginian red. a Wedgwood blue, and dark and light greys will have autumnal successes.

Collars and bows are still" im- portant." The white" pique sets with dark dresses are pleasing. With the practical tailored shirts of washing silk and fabric, young people will wear a cleverly' ad-- justed hunting stock in white or in pale washing fabric.

There is also the six turn-over collar and man's foulard the or bow The large white organdi. bow has had its day. Some houses show clever collars and stocks with new belts in light- coloured string and kid Lac- quered accessories are still DO- pular.

#

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 1934.

FASHIONS FOR

AUTUMN

Directoire Styles.

Again

BARE SHOULDERS AND

HIGHER WAISTS.

„

A Directoire influence is appar- ent throughout the autumn and winter collections, writes a cor, respondent. It has a subtle quali- ty, with high-waisted effects sug- gested, but modified by slightly draped folds...

Walsts, however, are not de- finitely settled at one given place, but rise and fall according to figures. Nevertheless, they do not fall below the natural line, and look easy even when girt by 'belts, indented, or showing off to per- fection under gentle folds in long, sheath-like gowns. These gowns have straighter and narrower skirts, with or without trained trails.

Blashed hemlines are not over- done, but exécuted at either side, and even split abort trailing lengths into fish tails, which appear directly at the back or sidle off to right or left. Some hemlines show an uneven ten- dency, sweeping away from short front openings, while afternoon frocks may dip lower at the back on the side-split-straight-hemline plan. This uneven trend is not allowed to look bedraggled.

Evening decolletes go Directoire when moderately low fronts dis- play slashed open backs, V or square cuts back and front—with high backs and open fronts squared to vary the mode. Short puff sleeves apply to the period, but they are designed in a mod- ern manner and avoid the Vic- torian baby-puff style.

One decollete is completely nude, with shoulders stripped and puis extending in line scross the upper arms. Gold spotted and striped lame shoots up on to the shoulders from a waist-length cuirass, of the metal fabric work- ed into another gown of black chepc.

:

The New Colour

The darkest shade of prune is a rival to black, and shows an- other influence in decolletes when prune-coloured lace folds backs into a bolero line after encircling armholes and falling in stiff. pa-"" goda fashion over the shoulders. The new taketa velvet rustle in a sapphire blue gown with back skirted Autes restrained by an elastic grip and a wide flat bow set in rigid fashion across the front decollete. White satin also appeals when a nasturtium or- ange tazeta swathe ending in a double bow, rising up or to the corsage in perpendicular fashion and down on to the skirt at the "side front enda by girding the waist w

Gunmetal toned leather for disced belts and spots embroider-" ed on to the jumper top of a black satin gown stress a new Idea. The tone is used in plain lame for an exceptionally stace ful trained gown. One clever de signer also uses peau d'ange fer- sey with a medium fat rib in pink for a gown emphasising the

LELONG, MAINBOCHER,

AND ALIX

All The Fashions From

Paris

Loondon, Aug. 28.

In Lucien Lelong's collection there are to be noticed a bloused bodice with the waistline slightly raised in front; a draped neck- line back and front, and trim- ming on the hips, either tucks or drapery or a little flounce, or á pocket. Lelong's tailormade cio- thes are all simple, whether of oth and, fur, rough tweeds, or velvet and fur; lame blouses go with them, or shot faffetas and brocaded-satin then

The afternoon skirts are long and straight; shoulders are built up with stiff little "wings. A green velvet dress has a cow! front; a brown woollen dress bus jacket with a bat-shaped back and dolman sleeves. This jacket is made of various materials and sults the slim and plump alike. Some skirts are slit at the hem; others for the evening, when a trained dress is worn, are alit nearly to the knee. A great deal of velvet is used for the evening. .me of which has a watered or joire impression or may be shot with another colour. Another velvet is stamped with an inde-

and finite pattern

interwoven with metal threads, With every dress there is a cape or little jac- ket, not necessarily of the dress material. A three-quarter length jacket of velvet or lame, flaring. a little at the hem and fitted to the waist, with fur about the shoulders. makes a handsome wrap. Neck and shoulder lines are reasonably low. Evening Jewelry is decorative.

**DIFFERENT MATERIALS Mainbocher uses widely differ-

attractive length-of-limb line be neath black velvet lastex coatee gripped to the waist above a short basque,

ent materials-woollen for the evening, metallized velvets, figur- ed velvers for the afternoon. Lyons velvet which does not crease. Simply cut black dresses are made in many styles for the morning and early afternoon; little coloured Jackets go with. some of them. Coats and skirts have cape backs, and black coats and skirts may have coloured buttons and blouses. There are dresses with long capes and Httle muits; woollen skirts are bound with velvet round the edge. Main- bocher has revived the low crowned, curly brimmed hat, and has a Chinese bat with a low pointed crown, trimmed with flat cock's feathers. A black felt hat is lightly trimmed with scarlet.. Flowers are worn at the waist. and neck of afternoon dresses and are set low on an evening skirt. Late afternoon dresses and little dinner dresses of woollen nets, crepe satin, or Bagheera velvet are long and sim to the feet with slit hems and rather high waistlines; many are black" and trimmed with flowers. For more formal evening dress Main- bqcher uses a good deal of black or coloured aire. He makes vel- vet dresses of rich rust-red. green, or brown His black geor- gette dresses can be worn with a silver rose and pearls. His even- ing necklines are low, with shoul- der straps so slender as to be scarcely visible; his boned bod- ices need none. His morning and afternoon neckline is high to the throat with a little collar or dra- pery, and open in front to, a square.

Flexible Muscles

The basis of graceful move- ment is a flexible musetar system. In every-day life we are con.......... stantly moving walking, danc- ing, playing games, working.. turning the pages of a book, moving arm and hand to take a cup of tea. And all action de-

Mayo's

HOPPE

HONG KONG Large Consignment

of

FELTS.

HATS for all occasions.

READY MADE, AND MADE TO ORDER

41

South Arcade.

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Decorations

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Children's Clothing

Uniforms for Schools

Professional Clothing

Tennis Court Screens

Indanthren!

Fast to washing, sunlight, wear and weather.

TACK SHING CO.,

IGAUL

223, Queen's Road, Hongkong.

(one block before Central Theatre)

LES FLEURS de RiCAUD

the delicate flagrance of your favorite flower

ROSE - JASMINE

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FOR THE MAN

Who Would Be Fashionable

Knitted, kall-caps In very bright colours are the latest fashion for men on the Riviera

They are."the thing" for beach games

The decollete of this gown net- tles down under bracer steps of black cire satin ribbon, enging In a bow tie and sashed streamers. Lastex is displayed again in a fresh mood when lacquer red mat stripes are divided by glistening black cellophane for a long-slee black cellophane for a long-sleepends for beauty upon its grå Berets are no longer worn

gonal line at the back.

elouisness.

Talts of the Eton and swallow variety with short-waisted fronta take an unexpected line on even- ing gowns. The Eton wrap shows short bobbed talls in black velvet gown, and the swallow tall wraped and remedied by exercise. In navy blue falle is for wear avera blue and white narrow striped artificial silk mixture fab- ric with air eponge surface.

Every woman who would be. charming must, therefore pay at- tention to the way she moves." Movements which are too rapid, gauche, or ungainly must be stud-

THE BICORNE BERET

The beret is a versatile title: hat and in so sure of its popu larity that it always manages to adapt itself to the prevailing silhouette muccessfully. The bi- corne and the tricorne heing what they are to spring millinery, the beret pulls its soft crown into two or three points, The crown, is mounted on a bandenis and lifts up on one side, off the face

No single exercise will suffice, but here is a short series which will greatly assist in attaining the desired result:

1. Stand erect with feet in line, raise arms slowly with elbows bent, Inhale deeply, gra- dually lower the arms the while. you slowly exhale.

2. Stand on tip-toe, hands on hips Slowly bend the knees and lower the body to altting post-

3 Stand erect with hands on hips: Infiale, deeply, bring weight. of body on to one foot, bend for- ward from hipsnad

extera

Another sartorial detail:-every smart shirt and pullover has its owner's initials embroidered : on the left side.

They have been replaced by a white linen cap of the Maurice Chevaller type...

one

leg backwards until it is in line with hips, exhaling slow- meanwhile. Return to erect position and repeat exercise with other leg.

Perform all these exercises Ave or six times each in the order given, and if possible do them to music, A good dance record play- ed on the gramophone will serve admirably and will help to make, the exercise a pleasure.

Shattered Romance

It Imew where could

the beachkon knew her name,

VARIETY IN COLLARS

Collars and neck Anishes are now most skilfully stranged. There's a new style in polo col- Jara. less cumbersome than others, a V-shape cosy and sporting, filled in by woYEN. DE katted rib-effect to the base of the neck

The new plain Angora shirts which are so soft that the brigh- test tones do not jar, are mostly collarless. The finish here s either worked into the base of the throst or cut to reveal

boat shape. One can add scarf, stock or any becoming neck finish, Many of the new sports coats fasten right up to the throat, the small straight collar being an essential part of the garment. Others more be- coming to older women,

turi back with long revers,

Every tone of colour and every trifle in cat must be considered. A

autumn shade is the wine know These darker tones ness which a for

wool

$for

delightful