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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, AUGUST 31, 1934.
Fabrics That Bring A New FLOWING SKIRTS
Grace To Fashion
The sheathe-like frock is. Tev- ived with many improvements Even the glit side has a new grace, for gracefulness is the keynote of 1934 fashions. All the founda- tion garments must be carefully chosen with this in view. Women -with a little. leisure now would do ... well to study fashions in lingerie. It is possible to be snake-like beneath and yet warm. - That wonderful foundation garment, known, once as the corset, is lighter, alimmer, and more sleeky than ever, and still more beauti- fully constructed to ensure per- 'fect At to all the outer clothes. The new way is to use subtle art In each seam, sash, and drapery to give the impression of alim grace,
Materials can be, luxurious ag well as useful.. Lame, more, and velvet are used, and there are many new schemes with embroid- ery and sequins. Women will glitter, but in a more unostena- tious manner.
Black and all-white. for panne and velvet is lovely. There is a glorious fabric that is a cross be- tween moire and lame in ivory, woven with a "hint of gold. Then there is a purple panne with a red and Bliver splash in its com- position that calls for the ac- companiment of ermine or mink,
Velvet evening frocks have long matching capes. These are with- out fur. Younger girls will still favour Empire silk and striped" frocks with wide sashes of silver and tiaras of silvered coils. Yel- low and white, and that curious cinnamon shade with an olive- green stripe recall the period. So does a stray-coloured satin, with the skirt edged sash of blue taf- feta, puffed sleeves and berthe also bordered with the für
The coiffure can atress the period. We can do all sorts of things with hair this autumn, from flattest swirls to plaits, tiar- as, curls and the high sparish "comb.
's
Ribbons are utilised in all sorts of picture frocks. They are very helpful in Empire styles. A new ruche or tiny loops of pale-col- oured ribbons form a berthe and Border to girlish gowns of white aatin, taffeta and georgette, and many ribbon insertions are used in tulle. Fringes will stress the Spanish trend and weight some graceful capes and shawis.
Stiff bows of silk have sup- planted the organdle and pique vogue, A real Victorian return is a dark red wool frock cut very severely in princess style and trimmed, all up the front with bows of graduated size in faille ribbon, and this fastened up thes back with small faille covered buttons,The feck drapery was clover, consisting of narrow. strands of the faille and wool fab
ite, with a light black stitchery.
· Worn - with a black cloth beret and black furs, this was a most elegant revival from the past Large bows and revers of velve! are seen on cloth coats.
Wood buttons in every sort of size and shape are pleasing for Knitted garments, and the wool
and tweed variety. Wood, in many colours, is attractive in country
schemes. Red-and-
brown, black - and - chromium, white-and-gold, green-and-yellow. are all successful
I
IN A HEAT WAVE
The recurd heat wave in New Fork, now broken after 19 wel trring days, is responsible for a new fashion in evening dress, White linen dinner jackets were the Starlight aten nightly on Roof at the Waldorf.
To distinguish the wearers from bar-attendants, the jacket was worn with black trousers and black suede shoes.
* The shoes were invented by the late Duke of Marlborough. They are worn in England by Mr. Brendan Bracken and Mr. James de Rothschild.
2
FOR EVENING
Mediaeval Fulness
VELVET COSSACK COATS
Low hip-length coats take a new turn with one fashion crea- tor, who gives them a different character by flattening backs and fronts against the body under belts passed through, slottings. The result is a certain jauntiness at the ride. Meticulously fitted sleeves with ornate. decorations resulve into "bishop types set from a dropped yoke or raglan fitting..
The new " duchesse " sa tin appears in abudance for full- skirted mediaeval gowns which Maggy Rouff contrasts with the Directoire and a tunic line for
This evening wear.
designer futes skirts gradually into "rich undulating widths to the ground from silm-fitting" corsages.--These models either have full evening decolletes or high ones with long sleeves in velvet.
Taffeta and faille are "other outlined by a
fur.
Salt prevents yeast from work, ing and sugar helps it to do its work. In recipes where, yeast- is an ingredient always mix the elt with the flour and the yeart
with the sugar.
romantic fabrics used. Colours are naturally restricted in this pure silk satin, but it is distin- guished in black and white, a dark resinous red. and tones of dark bronze.
Bronze is a splendid note in velvet. It is also used for a gown worn with a flat hiplength cape of silver quilted fame, show- ing a quilted yoke of the brown beneath a Medici sable collar.
Modified, this theme leads up "to belted-Cossack coats with this designer, who follows the flare at half length in jaunty mood with thart collar and side fastening narrow strip of
The line appears again, when another designer follows it in noirette brown velvet to tip the skirt of a deep brown dress be neath. Flat furn, like” caracul, seni, and brown Alaska real seem" to be the fetish for these cost Fines. Breast pockets slant on. the diagonal in many modeli with a similar movement repeat- ed in skirta or coats just beneath the belted waisi-line
Further old-fashioned colours are seen in darkest blue velvet, black' and dark red shot taffeta.
Black and white wide-striped fallle is used for a rounded low front and high-backed corsage above a wide undulating black "' duchesse" skirt.
NEW FASHIONS
FROM PARIS
Crowded Mannequin Parades
(Special Air Mall Service)
London, Ang. 15. Some of the new fashions from Farla were exhibited yesterday at the first of a series of manne- quin parades held by Marshall and Snelgrove, of Okford-street.
That these "gut-of-season " shows, originated last year by this house, are
successful is proved by the fact that the attendance was greatly in excess of the seating arrangements, and large numbers of the audience had to be accommodated on another door.
Blit skirts to evening gowns. vividly contrasting petticoats showing under the hem, above the instep, one-sided" shoulder effects, and longer capes, are interesting points about the new fashions.
The three-quarter cost pro- mises to be as popular as ever in ensembles The new line is fitted closely to the figure and belted. Costume coats are long- er. and show a more defined waistline, slightly reminiscent of the suits of 1911.
Collarless Neckline
The collarless neckline of most of the new evening costs is balanced by lots of sleeve; one model of black velvet has 'volu- minous bishop sleeves decorated with criss-cross bars of silver: There is a good deal of lame. both for evening coats and gowns. This sesson's metallic cloths are. woven in a new manner, to make them drape as beautifully as the softest silk. -
M
Cavaler cloaks of black velvet make brave evening wraps, and a daring novelty in evening frocks is one of cellophane in an unusual shade of blue. Backless blouses of metal. cloth shown for etening wear black velvet or taffetas skirts.
were with
A lovely clear shade of petunts is used for a copy of a MaggY Rouff
tulle. of rufed cape Paton's wing back evening frock is shown in a soft. shade of blue,
SEASIDE WEAR
Promenade And Cocktail Time Dress
As the day advances and moods are wont to change from beach to luncheon and afternoon attire at smart resorts, there is a charming little jumper sult tailored from white China washing silk which appeals to me, if only for the rea- son that I know how ideal it is to wear in very hot weather writes a correspondent. This looks un.. usually smart.
This mid-skirt-length frock is designed to go with a white fancy pique tailored jacket, that mat- ches a jockey-peaked swathed cap.
Golden Yellow "
+
Golden yellow handkerchief linen makes an excellent dress, executed on a simple coat-frock- style buttoned all the way down the front on to yellow buttons. which take a line between big the Norfolk batch pockets on skirt.
The day is yet young, and there are other things to settle on be yond a bathe. The late pro- menade and a cocktail meeting. can be provided for in wide-leg- ged' pyjamas or ankle-length skirted dresses with high sleeve- less tops made from handkerchief linen which, according to Chanel, stresses the tricolour note in red and blue floral impressions on a white ground, or the other way about. They are charming models assembled to go with half-length slack coats, models, too, that will Barve for an ordinary dinner party, When a casino is in the offing, old-fashioned checked taf- fetas made with a great bow set aslant the back are smart.
These taffetas very in tones from dark green to mid-gree and dark red to rose, as well as black and white
hite carmelitas are mas gether in following s back decollete:
Upper aru - brassards
in just the same m
deep V
Maya's
HONG KONG
HOPPE
Wonderful Selection
of
New White FELTS
AND
Light-weight Coloured Felt HATS
South Arcade.
Gloucester Building,
EMBROIDERED GOLD IN EVENING PRESS
Sculptured" Gowns Of
Stiff Material
The outlook for evening clothes
in the dress world is distinctly bright.
:4
神
So far at any rate, as her gowns are concerned.. every woman can shine in the evening."
Velvet, plain and corded, rich satins thick-ribbed silk, taffeta faille, crisp tafeta, dull-faced Elik fabrics with B crinkled, waved, blistered or quilted sur- face, are among the materials used for the new evening dresses. Some are plain, In many them metal threads are woven with the silk.
of inter-
Gold thread is interwoven with soft ribbed silk crepe to give a corduroy effect; there are metal satins and metal moires. and soft creaseless velvets' with gold or silver gleaming through the pile
Small Designs
Sometimes instead of the metal being interwoven the material appears to be embroidered 'in gold or silver. The is always small.
petticoat effects in the form of under founces in lace, or net, either in the same colour as the dress or in white or cream, or in a frill of taffetas in a contraaf- ing colour. "Some dressmakers have been so carried" away by the lit fashion as to slash' the. skirt to ribbons to a depth of fourteen to eighteen inches from the ground, the latter to show off the beauty of the petticoat flounce below.
Back Views
Others who have no use for the slit while giving adequate width at the "hem, tle the skirt closely round the wearer's Agure about twelve inches above the back of the knee where...s...wide, spreading how is placed ag... a finish.
In other words. a. skirt of the early 'eighties keeping company with s bodice cut on strictly mo- derr. Kines
design 18 The peg-top skirt is another
Small square or round spots. or"
: silver' or gold stars, appear
against a background of dark-" ribbed silk
revival—its last appearance, was a year or two before the outbreak. of war.
subject about which dressmakers have divided views.
The back view above the waist- Richness of fabric and discreline of an evening dress-is another: tion as regards design are fea- tures of the new evening frocks.
Except for velvet, materials are stlff-clinging dresses are for, the time being to be replaced by others, the materials used for which can "stand" by themselves. so that women's evening clothes.. look as if they had been sculp- tured rather than sewn.
As an alternative to metal. cellophane is used both in sk and woollen materials.
Stiffened lace is embroidered. with cellophane to give the ne- cessary bright touch to an even cessary bright touch to an even- ing dress: Metal sequins serve the same purpose.
Designers hold varying views on the subject of the length of -skirt for evening gowns.
Some of these are just ankle- length; others touch the ground; others have' one or two trains, an great arrangement that has a deal to recommend it on the score of convenience.
Slit-up Skirts
The battle between tight and full skirts looks like being decid- ed in favour of the former. *
Many are so tight that it looks as if the wearers will have to spend the evening standing they want to keep their clothes intact. But women must walk, so the split skirt has made its appearance.
if
Just how far it shall be splits left to the discretion of the de- signer
Воте
Backless dresses have as rivals others cut with 'a V, an oblong, an oval, or a deep square ¡¡neck- line at the back:
Other designers prefer a more or less intricate arrangement of crossing straps, or strips linked with plain metal or jewelled clips. Some frocks are cut to reveal a strip of skin down the centre back others a triangle with the base at the waistline!
Sleeves are seen in some mo- dels. This, wth the existence of a reasonably high neckline in front, suggests that it is once more being realised that it is the duty of a dress, even it for use in the evening, to clothe the wearer!
Dresses Made of Glass
The first dress ever made of glass has been shown in Paris
It looks rather like mother-of- pearl, and its appearance suggests something more substantial than its name.
Women are not likely to be able to wear these dresses to any great extent yet, because the material has not been perfected.
Another new material is poussin It is woven front feathers and
is of tweed, and fur combined. It is called caniche, and shows tuffs of fur sprouting at inter- vals against a tweed background.
New Fashion in V
evening gowns slivery, thread. Another material
• have skirts that are split up to a height of two or three inches above the left knee and worn without a petticoat. A black yelvet gown of this type had a Hited hem line, slightly shorter at the back than in front-
Some designers prefer shorter slits, perhaps at the centre of the front and back, or at the sides of the skirt.
The appearance of the allt skirt" has induced others to introduce
to:
do when a marguerite daisy chain. le massed together in Hawaiian forma
back white pique or matching discreet novelty ng.elegance,
A new muffler Athe
and
dachshund. It is long reaches from elbow, to elbow - across the arms of the wearer.
-Vells are no longer worn across the face. Instead they are used like a chin strap, or are square shaped and frame the wORIGEN Lace,
"The crinoline“ is dead. The hoop, instead of being round the hips, is round the ankies" An evening dress tight to the knees spreads outwards to an enormoula hoop which lies flat on the fround when the wearer alta still
These" are among the novelties:: introduced by Mme. Schlaparili,
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