TO
LOOK HER
BEST
A Woman's Hands Must be Well Kept
The shape of one's nalls should be regulated by that of the Anger tips, and fled round accordingly.
The ideally beautiful Anger tips are oval in shape, and if you are lucky enough to possess them, don't try to distort them in order to appear smart.
DELICIOUS FICHUS
large organdie" triangles in pale tints embroidered in fines of cow, Frusting enloured and metal threads make delicibus fichus for Summer sports, or for afternyan ar informal evening frocks.. Ilari jorie Danton'a cherry-red "hilskin taillear orer a shrcked taffeta bathing suit is one of the sexenn's smartest" practical beach outfits.
If your fingers are very blunt- tipbed and flat. then you "can trim your nails more pointedly; but even then, if you overdo that, you simply draw attention to their defects.
You can, with patience, alter the shape of your finger, tips. Pinch each finger tip Eightly. twenty times, with the finger and thumb of the other hand, every night. This exercise will help you to nails which are nearer oval perfection.
EL
A good brushing and the app- lication of a little lemon juics will make your nails both clean and beautiful. If you do much
gardening, or any manual work which soils the hands and fin- gers, keep a lemon handy in the bathroom, also a small tube of nall white. Use both every time You wash
(and brush) your hands.
After a holiday cruise it often happens that sunburnt shoulders, arms and back result, caused by sun-bathing or the Lido deck, or by the ship's swimming pool. To remedy this there is no better bath than one of sour milk,
It is possible nowadays in buy sour milk, eren in towns, The dactice acid in it is just what the skin needs to improve its tint.
This bath must be just a local ant, applied to the parts which need treatment.
Soft nails are difficult to man- age. They should be cut with a pair of curved pointed scissors, and fled to the correct shape, then trimmed off with an emery board.'
Brittle nails need a nightly masaage with, vaseline. Don't be afraid to expose your hands to the sun and air, so long as you give them
a cold cream or of massage every night.
LONDON NOTES
Early Autumn Hats
Flat wide-brimmed hats, hit- herto the summer favourites, will go out of fashion in the early autumn. Brims of moderate, size will persist, no longer fat and plain, but pleated and folded up- wards at the back, or of uneven one-sided widths, Such hats are meant to be worn with early aut- umn tailor-made clothes, and the crowns are shallow and others are creased at one side where they rise to a point. Sports felts have rather low but not excessively shallow crowns worked in tucks or folds, or cut into, triangles or squares. Position crowns will also appear in a modified form,
A tricorne may be suggested · when the brim of a reversible pan- ne felt hat is rolled in a certain manner back at the side: here the trimming is no more than a plain coloured wool ribbon or a plece of metal and enamel hold- ing a gross-grain ribbon,
Toques and turbans are likely to revive, but hardly until they will be wanted to be worn with fur-collared coats. In the mean- time there are large flat berets made of taffetas, velvet, or both. They are drawn on from back to front and flattened out into a jutting line over the eyes. A velvet hat has a beret crown and soft full brim; soft felts are used for berets, which are stitched to form a slight crown. beret is tilted forward on a small bandeau which is filled in with wool or silk pompoms. The full- ness of a black felt tailored beret Is held in place by embroidered darts; and t beret with double brim is held in place by drapery and stitching at the edge.
A sports
2
Velvet and panne felts are for the afternoon, and "light and flannel felts for sportswear. There are also softly coloured heavy felts. Trimmings are usually narrow ribbon bands, and metal buckles, but some forward tilted hats are trimmed with gros-grain cockades or small feather mounts. On a brimmed äfter-
noon hat an edging of uncurled ostrich feather looks almost like a vell, Other velvet or panne hats have bring with a flat trim- ming of crosse or osprey, or little vells of widemeshed stiffened net. Small Russian turbans of fat furs will go well with furtimmied' town clothes.
New Fall Models
Much of the interest in the new autumn models centres in their novel trimmings and fas- tenings. Many and varied are the materials which have been . called into use. A waistbelt in- variably appears; but it may be "either cuffs, neckline or pockets that conform and complete the scheme.
Cutieles should not be cut, "as It coarsena them. They should. be pressed down with the towel when drying the hands.. and it.
they are very difficult to keep down, soak the finger tips in borax water for five minutes.
Here is a good lotion for the hands, and the nails generally Add a desert-spoonful of strain' ed lemon Juice to the beaten white of an egg, massage this on at night, and allow it to dry
A wide suede belt in self-col- our encircles the sapphire-blue coat frock in angora tweed, Out- size diamond-shaped buttons faster both, bodice and cutis.
Very unusual are the late tien to the bottle-green woollen dresa. metal eyelet holes, which appear They are theaded through large
agath as press fasteners on the four patch pockets A brown
leather belt with matching tas- sela, fepeated at the neckline, makes an effective finish to the flecked tweed dress carried out. in "old-thatch," a soft blend of grey and beige, and one of the newest autumna; shades;
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS.
FRIDAY,
Designers Consider
A popular author lecturing in Paris the other day on
the te- chnique of writing compared it to lovemaking. He said, in sub- stance: "When you want to woo a woman successfully you” don't. think of the words; you think o the woman and the right words come.”
This strikes the writer ag be- ing a perfect formula, for the cou- turler. It is the fashion creator"
M
AUGUST 24, 1934.
The Individual
dresses or blouses. Contrasting Jackets are featured: A boxy ki- mono affair in greige and navy awning-striped mäterial, artificial fallle, having Interesting squarish elbow sleeves and worn with a plain navy skirt and inside blouse of the falle, hae been extensively ordered,
11
How Allx Does It,
Alix is another couturiere who understands turning out the mo- dern woman so that her clothes seem to belong to her as inevitab- ly and personally as the leaves
who considers the woman first of all rather than the one who strives to launch, sensational fas hions who is more marked for success to-day. Recent experto a tree. ences prove that a nice temper- ing of originalty with an appear- ance of complete simplicity most pleases the modern woman, for though sartorial standardization is dead, freakish individualism in dress is even deader.
Lucian Lelong beautifully ex- emplifies the successful techni- que in new all-print afternoon esembles that were worn by many members of the Famous Forty during the month of July. They are all superficially of the same general style-a loose, flowing three-quarters coat and unas- suming frock-but he has, subtly varied each model, allowing the print itself to suggest the varia- tion.
i
Letang's Technique ·
For example, Lelong "takes a blue and white printed crepe with a large cross-barred pattern and uses it on the diagonal for a frock, which is smocked into round yoke at the neck and shoul- ders, reducing the design in a cle- ver effect of graduation both in form and colour. A little full- nes is given to the front of the skirt in the same manner; 3 similar treatment fits the unlined coat round the neck and gathers
its peasant sleeves.
For women who do not like prints Lelong has plain crepe afternoon frocks in pale greige, gray or dull blues with a perven- che caste that look "simple com- me bon jour," as the French say, and yet offer an infinite variety of treatments. There is a gray dress, fitted with tiny shirrings that gradually diminish into stit- chings before they disappear en- tirely. It has a small open cape shirred all over except for plain band at the edge: another is a sapphire blue crepe; the front of the skirt falls into ripples be: cause of the undulating serpent- Ine gore cuts that melt into the plain 'top in a really astonishing manner. Long serpentine petals of
front the crepe trim the of the shortsleeved bodice un- der the round decollete.
This present preoccupation on the part of many Paris couturiers with the private client rather than the mass buyer has brought about one notable result, namely, midseason collections in which many new models for immediate wear are interspersed among the later Fall models. Among these designers in Georgette Renal, a young couturiete, who began rat- her quietly about a year and a half ago to make clothes to please her smart private clients.
ון
Rebal's are clothes to wear rat- her than to write about, They have that consummately finished " look. She maintains a straight. narrow, youthful, line throughout. and enlivens.it by unexpected touches. She puts a navy blue box-calf collar, and' tie, matching a wide belt, on a quaintly flower- ed flax frock; or splashy red pat- ent leather bows on a lttle Sum- mer dress-and-boler, ensembled of black and white cross-hatched crepe edged with pleats,
Round collars of the Buster Brown type, with an amusing variety of differently tied narrow cravats, appear on most day-time
Probably the bark
would be a more exact compari- son, by reason of her tightly wrapped dresses, that look so na- tural and are so artful"irregular tunic fronts, belts in all sorts of diverting, new materials to give the interesting" variety,
Every womaŹ would enjoy wearing Alix's frock of semi-abeer. brown Jersey of which the bodice is draped and tied in a bow on the bosome long ends of the bow trial to the knees. The wide bélt of brown and white quills being cut and glued into zebra
stripes, and the white shantung turiic-coat split in the back to show more of the brown
skirt.
The texture of the materiais in such costumes has much to do with the charm of the clothes, The new black wool monks cloth of one ensemble, unexpectedly soft to the touch, contrasts per- fectly with the snowy white linca lining of its hiplength cape, It curves up over the arms in a highly African manner and with the white touch at the neck of the simple frock furnished by a woven linen braid band and bow.
There is no real reason why any comparatively well-proportioned person should not find beach clo- thes to suit her type this year. They are made in a much grea- ter variety than it was possible to buy two or three years ago; and the way they are cut is much kinder, as a general rule.:
Shorts are more popular than long trousers, on the whole, and as they nearly all give the effect of a short, fall skirt, the only thing to be said against them is that, if you have indifferently shaped legs, it will obviously be leer of you to wear long, trousers or a fairly long beach frock,
A
Shirts And Shorts
Inen, fairly coarse in weave, in navy blue, pale pink or yellow, is made into most attractive two- pieces of shorts and shirt. Both are tucked, which is to say that that necessary fullness in the shorts ends in narrow tucks to- wards the waist; and that the sleeveless shirt has narrow tucks both front and back..: It buttons all the way down the front, and has a little turn-over Peter-Pan- nish collar,
The New Paris
Beret
An Early Autumn Mode
The beret: has made another bold bid to retain its place in the sun of fashion
Sponsored by a famous Páris designer, this cap of the centur fes has assumed a new and pic- turesque form that should assure
it of more widespread support than ever for the latest form. of beret is of such dimensioris and is so worn that it presents possibilities to many women who have hitherto regarded the beret type of "hat creation as unbe- coming. Now the larger beret movement has begun
.Г
!!
The question of whether this " type of collar becomes you ar not is the principal point to con- sider about this suit. On the definitely mature woman it near-
ly always looks silly. On a slen
Mayo's
HONG KONG
HOPPE
NEW SHIPMENT.
der and sufficiently long neck it LIGHT WEIGHT
can be quite charming.
Play suits, which are really shorts and a shirt joined toget- her, are even simpler to put on, and almost deliriously comforta- ble to wear, especially for people. who usually have to spend most of their time in urban surround- Ings and tidy" clothes.
These play sults can be made in linen in plain colours, or in those blue and white or red and white cruising lineus; or in a soft and slightly say stuff with pals neutral or dark blue or brown grounds, and red, green, blue or yellow spots.
The earnest sun-bather prefers to slip on shorts over her backless bathing suit; her sun-bathing top may match the shorts or else be in a gay contrast. This, of course, covers her front but not her back, and usually ties at the back of the neck.
1
The matching sets of shorts and sun-bathing" tops may be made in One wgol dark brown or navy blue, turquoise or green, with a thin white check all over it. Sometimes, however, they are in bright ginghams.
Shorts, by themselves, are made th an immense variety of stuffs; ribbed wool (particularly neat and pleasing in navy blup); kalt- ted wool, in similar colours and -weaves to the bathing suits; jer- seys: flannel; linens of several types including line tweed; shan- turig and drii.
Long trousers, if separate from shirt or sweater, are also avail able in a variety of materials silks, linens or woollens. They are generally in plain colours, and meticulously cut at the top to avoid unattractive lines, but not unduly wide in the leg or at the hems.
Knitted trousers, however, are still wide at the hems as a rule, and usually all-in-one with a sun-bathing top in the same knitted, held in place by a band. round the neck or by straps which cross at the back and but- con on to the trousers,
A new and eminently practical garment for slipping on over a bathing-sult the moment you come out of the water is a kind of long, loose shirt made of white towelling. It would be amusing in coloured towelling, too.
There are some linen coats cut on much the same lines as the almost knee-length towelling shirt, except that they open down the front and have very square shoulders, rather Chinese, in fact. Another type, rather less aggre^,„, give in line and made in heavy" white or natural linen, would be. as good with tennis clothes as on the beach.
Many people perfer the simple and traditional dressing-gown type of wrap to anything else. Quantities of these are made iri‹ towelling, usually in plain col- 'ours; but in a very wide range of these. Others, rather more 80- Bhisticated, are in a sort of wood- ly canvas, attractive in rush red, royal blue and corn yellow.
Beach dresses follow, the lines of the trousers-and-top suits, ex- cept that they have akirts instead of trousers. Grey knitted wool seems to be popular for these, and for bathing-suits, too; but there are some cheerful yellows and blues as well.
Similar frocks, made in a kind of cotton, button all the way down the back of the skirt. This makes them easy to put on, but the
can hardly be comfortable · for lying about on the sands.
COLOURED. FELTS.
HATS, CLEANED, DYED
South
AND
REMODELLED.
Arcade.
Gloucester Building,
AT THE GLOVE COUNTER
details of Anish, but upon the maker. Each manufacturer has his own pattern and outs and in this pattern he produces all his gloves. One maker may cut loq- ger fingers, another a broader hand; and so on, so that when buying it is just a question of finding the maker of glove that is best suited to ape's own hand.
(Special Air Mail Service)
London, Aug. 9. The glove is a very important factor in the smart woman's wardrobe, as it is one of the de- indicative either of good poor tails of dress that is particularly
taste, and frequently the correct choice of glove, is essential to the success of a scheme; but even apart from those occasions. there is nothing that looks so bad as an -Atting. -chosen glove, while there is nothing more attractive than a beautifully- gloved hand.
Different functions require different types of glove. Of the skin gloves, there are the heavy English kind, such as hogskin and cs peskin, for sports and country wear. Then there are the del:- cate French kids and spedes for smart afternoon wear. Of the fabric gloves, there are the plain ones, used by many people for shopping and morning wear, and there are also all the season's frivolities in organdle and lace and crochet, that have been worn, chiefly in white, on all manner of occasions.
Watch The Stitching
These are points that may be of use both in the matter of long and satisfactory wear. First. In regard to skin gloves, their quality, particularly in the case of the kids and suedes depends chiefly On the flexiblity of the skin. A good glove will stretch easily and will give to the hand while a poor one, will be comparatively taut and will have little give, and will therefore tend to split. Another thing to notice is the stitching. In the good glove it will be even and neat, and well finished round-the thumb and between the fingers; but in the less good one the stit- ching line may wobble · ip and out, and be unevenly Anished round the thumb. Also the points along the back of the hand may. be put on croockedly, and this does not look well when the glove -is on
There comes the important question of good fit. This does not depend on any particular
FOREHEADS DIS APPEARING
Foreheads are disappearing. Study the women-at nay emart gathering in the West End, and you will find that all foreheade are hidden, Bangs" of curls or simply waved fringes cover the martest foreheads. There is a liking for buncher of tight little surle massed on the top of the head and arranged to fall for ward over the brow in a fringe.
The problem of disposing of these curls beneath a hat has been solved by the introduction of new off the face bonnets: These leave the forehead free, and reveal the group of purls in all their buoy ant ertherance
efinitely not
ca fashion for those over th
Of fabric gloves there is little of interest to be said, except, per- haps, that in the putting on of delleste and fancy gloyes it is essential to pull them on by a substantial part of the hand and not by the cuff, as it stands to reason that they will tenz
With regard to the "washing of skin gloves there is no hard-and- fast rule to give. One might say. however, that it is safer not to wash a glove that is not marged washable. The one thing that must never be done is to have. a glave Arst cleaned and then washed. In the making a skin is treated with a chemical sub- stance, so that it will be possible- to wash the glove. When it is cleaned, however, it is treated
with a stronger chemical, which removes the original one, and it the glove is then washed it will just dry up and be useless.
Occasionally one finds that the dye will come off dark skin gloves on to the fingers. There are some skins that take the dye loosely through nobody's fault,' and this is the result. A remedy that is frequently successful is to turn the glove inside out, and dab it with peroxide. This will usually remove all the loose dye and will make the glove wearable again.
Button Length
Lastly, a little point about buy- ing long kid gloves. Often people know how far up the arm they want the glove to come, but do not know how to order them by "button length"
This is measured from the base. of the thumb in inches, so that a 18-button length gloves, for in- stance, would be 16in from the base of the thumb. This is a very simple way of ordering and makes errors impossible.
ALEXANDRA CURLS
A novelty is the Alexandra hairdressing curls arranged on" the front of the head, a little over the forehead to wear with new autumn hats tilting for ward and sloping towards the back-like our grandmothers wore them
FOR EVENING WEAK For the evening there is a colffure showing the hair partéd at the neck and gathered Lato two plafts arranged to form a diadem above the forehead, and another with the hair aid in fat curls over the
with, the ears completely This-is good for teens
Page 15Page 16
No comments yet.
Private notes are available after approval.