1934-07-13 — Page 3

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NEW COLOUR VOGUE

How It Is Started

Where do the new colours come frome lovely tints that one sees nowadays, which captivate, and add to the charm of both the.. young and the elderly?

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, JULY 13, 1934:

PARIS FASHIONS SUMMER FASHIONS NOW

More Comfortable Hats

(Special Air Mail Service)

London, June 27, Wide brimmed, low crowned hats are challenged by draped berets. The Lanvin beret, mode with sections of ribbon or dress mate- rial, is rather like a tam-o'- shanter. Other berets, less ex- actly so named, are draped in different ways some are wide some are narrow. some are worn

Instance the wonderfully soft blues that one sees in the sheer- est of silken dress fabrics and woollen sultings, and can find also in table linens, and the ac- "companying tea or dinner service; in the crepe de Chine sheets and pillow cases of the luxuriously in-over the brow or with a vell, but clined; in motor-cars and their fittings; and on the kitchen walls.

Even Parisiennes have

·BUC- cumbed to the London vogue of turquoise blue, in spite of their affection for black, and black-.- and-white,

There are pale gol- den yellows and glorious shades of red in tints and tones so far removed from their primary form as to be hardly recognisable. *This triumph of colour in fas- hion and the home Is also a triumph for· British dyers and Only of re-

manufacturers. cent years has it become possible to reproduce really beautiful col- ours in all types of dress materials in this country. Foreign domina- tion in colour no longer holds sway now that British colours just as beautiful can be produced by our own textile and other colour using Industries.

Q

Much of the success of mo- dern colour schemes is due to a plan of standardisation.

The

British Colour Council, with the desire id place colour determina- tion for the British Empire in Bri- tish hands, has evolved systems - of colour research which provide early information on the trend

of fashion in this direction.

In this way a selection of the coming fashion colours can be

made, and the sponsored coloured card and correlated chart for the coming season is achieved. These. cards and charts are sent out to members representing every kind

af industry, not only to all parts

of Great Britain, but to all parts

of the world.

Manufacturers of every kind of production in which women are interested are thus enabled to create harmonious colour schemes in silk, woollen and cotton fab- rics. knitwear, hoisery, shoes and gloves, bags and other accessor- les, The modern colour scheme extends to embroideries and dne ..needlework which is absorbing so much attention from the women of to-day.

Household linen, table ware and the kitchen have not been over- looked. A colour chart, aultable" for household appliances has been adopted by leading firms, and this chart applies to other firms inter- ested in interior decoration, Link- ing up the industries by means of colour is one of the chief ex- planations of the present day col- our harmony. It cannot fail to assist the eventual purchaser whether it be in choosing'an en- serable for Gold Cup Day at Ascot or having the kitchen domala re- decorated.

The evolution of a fashion col- our is interesting. This season the vogue for a soft turquoise blue under the hams of Gain- sborough duck egg, or majolica, has been a victory for the colour fashion prophets.

Next autumn will see a new blue green as one of the season's colour successes This is a soft dark blue green very like a pea- cock green, which is particularly "effective in supple cloth, and in taneta for evening wear. There

is also a new dark almond green There is no apparent yellow in these shades, which makes them. "a distinct contrast to the yellowy moss greens which were worn last autumn,

all look supple and comfortable. They may be of saft straw, rib- bon, tafetas, or tweed.

Figured crepe dresses with big black hats and dark wraps, or fur capes. have been numerous at Chantilly, together with or- gandie and taffetas dresses; and the easy fashion of black and white has been maintained in dresses of one with coats of the other. There were several tunics: white satin over black, figured crepe over plain crepe Blouses. of blue organdie dotted white, grey. or pale blue, were worn with woollen and silk tailor-made clothes. Flower cache combs and ribbon fles were Exed to

the backs of some big hats, and there were a few flower toques. Gloves

were of white pique, linen, or organdle, and with some flowered silk and muslir dresses the gloves were of those materials. When afternoon dresses have long skirts carried to's high waistline and short highwaisted Jackets are worn with them, there is an impression of height where there is none.

All new

skirts tend towarda

silm wrapover ines. They are: draped on the figure and shaped to fall gracefully by different uses of scissors and needle. The warpover skirt brings with it a side drapery again; the wrap- over means slits, darts, openings for panels, or the revelation of" an under-dress. Whatever the time of day, a skirt draped on the figure imparts individuality and variety.

The long cape of velvet, taxe- 'tas, organza, satin, or fur la worn in the evening: By day the long cape is" worn with tailor-made clothes. In the afternono, at the races and in the Bois, long vel- vet capes appear with fitted shoulders. There is much less puffing about shoulders and slee

ves than there was. Only in full garden-party attire may there. be those rippling trimmings on the shoulders and flounced skirts which take up so much room. A tailored simplicity is what is pre- ferred. though hats may be com- plicated.

AT HIGH TIDE

Latest Colour Symphonies:

'

Pinhead Dots And Coin Spots

(Special Air Mail Servico)

London, June 27. French tennis championship Have been drawing moderate crowds to the State Rolland Gar- ros with a half-and-half intesest displayed between shorts and skirts on the courts and a great sprinkling of linen sults on the stakıda,

Brilliant sunshine has given this new summer style an earlier start thari usual. and it is one that might be encouraged with ease for Wimbledon and Lord's.

Hemp weaves and linen of every coarse variety, whether unbleached or bleached, parade this neat tailored fashion with semi-fitted jackets and slim skifts. Fiat choulder capelets do sometimes put in as appearance, on tailored dresses, but on the whole jackets look smarter, even when two-piece ensembles are preferred instead of three-piece

ones, with blouses showing off to perfection in plain coloured, striped, spotted. or checked fab- rics.

Blouses vary "In vivid or sober contrasts with these particular types of patterned fabrics being accepted almost to the exclusion of floral prints. They seem to give the right "ourish" to" un- ostentatious linen suit styles

- whether made from surah, tie- silk, China, taffeta and linen- which may contrast in finer or coarser texture, to the main" note.

A plain navy blue coarse linen blouse with a short broad chemi- sier shirt front is one example that looks excellent with a pale grey cotton tweed suit. while narrow parrot-coloured stripes through a white ground bring a new splash of galety to navy. Stripes also run in sober-toned greens and reds through fine Lisle thread jersey pullovers. A country trend, perhaps, but still very smart for spectator sports wear on occasions.

Reds in a medley of tones from dark to light eject white blouses from the neutral-coloured linen and

Shantung suit calender.

This might also apply to navy and brown. Since there is such variety in spots from pinhead dots to those of different "coing persuasion as well as checks in a similar range, they never pall on the optic nerve. even when hats, with brims gauged from Breton sällor types to are spotted to matcli

"flops,"

One feels that this particular style. will be the great stand-by should the drought break at the wrong moment-that is to say. if rain prevents us from wearing frailer clothes

have we

beeu hoarding for exclusive social functions during the season. In- dividually, of course, we are all longing for one of those thunder- storms that signal a whole lot of gentle rain for several days.

The red" and white; duster checked mat taffeta I told you about some time ago as 'figuring in the mid-season collections for youthful evening gown with a ground length full hemline and ruffles round the armholes has been taken up for blouse lengths. It is used to make a dainty mo- del with high neck split down the centre back, ahort sleeves. and a waist swathing closely over the skirt of a coarse open mesh white linen suit.

Th

Open bačka to blouses are 1 keeping with morning sports and afternoon styles. They are s- ually tastened by a button or the at the nape; and help preserve. tist fronts in just the same man- ner as short back button fasten- ings should you prefer the con- tre closed

Split openings, de intriguing, particularly for wear under jak kets in hot weather A blouse with this characteristic has ap extra special feature in narrow inch-wide

machine-stitched bands. One grips the opening together at the back from where It is fixed as far as the shoulders, and then left to hang free so that a knot can be tied with adds lopping over a square front (de- collete. Another long band. of the same proportion is machine- stitched and attached over the slightly fitted side-front, waist-

line to be crossed at the back and brought round again to the frant, where it is knotted in an Identical fashione

This apron-topped blouse ob- viates button-fastenings, and is an ideal model for materials like organdle that have no slip-into stretch.

Although straight skirts аге legion for these summer suits. divided ones are made interes- ting by crossing a single panel width of the material from left front to right back, or vice versa to form the trousered division, which is actually closed. The manipulation is not so easy as it sounds!

This skirt motif also. appears for a neat, suit of black crepe de China, with beige worn with a lacquer red and white spotted blouse. Linen is a special theme for sults and neutral-coloured tailored dresses for wear with dark Hizen Jackets Sometimes these frocks are entirely plain with the colour of the jacket .mirrored in a centre-front button bodice fastening and leather belt.

а

Dark blue on oatmeal linen crash is one instance. while a brown linen Jacket looks excel- lent on a yellow cotton hopsack frock, Pale blue linen, too, looks well when contrasted with brown chemister front to go with 3 brown linen jacket. In fol- lowing this idea I would make my hat according to my jacket. whether it be of bright green dr red linen for a white or natu- ral-toned frock These plain co- loured jackets are not only re- freshing to look at, but break up, the revival for white ones black or navy. White alpaca, by the way. is the latest material for these jacket lines.

COTTON LACE

on

New Fashion Fabric

2

SOUTH SEAS DESIGNS

"Savage" Trend

Fabrics

Mayo's

In

HONG KONG

The tendency to "go native" in matters of interior decoration makes itself felt in the latest furnishing fabrics which, throw- ing to the four winds of Heavens the ribbons and roses of the traditional designs, have gone to the South Seas for inspiration.

Visions

of Samoa and Stevenson, of jungle growths and camp fires are conjured up by the new materials in which we .. are expected to cover our Ches- terfeld and enwrap our divan.

Exotic Flowers

of

The Gors of Java cluster their spikey. exotic leaves upon * heavy cloth with. & background so shaded as to suggest the sun raya endeavouring to assert themselves through a dense un- dergrowth.

Samoa has contributed the theme of a very arresting stud whose surface shows a cunning medley of conventionalised" waves and some species of plant of the edible kind that in the neigh- bourhood of the Pacific supports life without effort. In these strenuous days a cheerful object for contemplation.

For those who have adopted

LATEST UNDERWEAR from

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HATS MADE TO ORDER ANY STYLE..

South Arcade.

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New Shipment

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*

the cult of the negroid carvings THE VICIOUS COCKTAIL'

there is the gropriate hanging

to be found in a cloth that is directly inspired, by the Tappa fabrics of the African, a mass of Ane geometrical designs in brown on a fabric in the natural colour "of the flax

A

into one an-

Cobra Curves Something more sinister has gone to the planning el material

the which simulates sinuous movements of the cobra its broad curves shading their colours gradually other so as to give a curious sense of vitality, such as is generally wanting in striped patternings. This applies likewise to another stripey motif that is derived from birch-bark, and really gives the effect of something that has le ir. it.

Another feature of the South Seas is conveyed by a fabric that is based on the swirl and whirl of a maelstrom..

He saw there a job for dis- tributor. He could, by encouri ging consumption, help the pro- ductive capacity of the country to work at normal pressure and to utilise the services of those who were seeking work.

Penny Post

Later in the proceedings 2 unanimous demand was made for the reinstitution of the penny post.

A resolution moved by Mr. T. Ower- Jacobsen, London, declared that "this much-needed reform would give a wonderful impetus to the trade and industry" of the country."

Mr. Jacobsen pointed out that they hoped to secure the penny post in next year's Budget by a strong national effort:

"This is a reform that is long overdue," he said. "The Govern- ment has taken from the Fost Office an £18.000.000 surplus in ten years. They expect this year a surplus of over £12,000,000.”.

Mr. Jacobsen criticised the re- cent reduction Ja telephone charges as inadequate. They did very much, he said. The poor man had no telephone, but he did send out letters.".

not help the poor man for Midsummer

(Special Air Mail Service)

London, June 27. We have heard sóùmuch" about the charm of the season's cotton' materials that it is unnecessary to dwell on the new voiles, ging- hams, lawns, muslins, and the like. But now the lace manufac-

turers are claiming attention for their fabrics-and showing auch very charming specimens that we shall certainly "Tall for them. Coarce stiffened cotton lace is used, for smart collars and cuffs

Some Ideal Recipes For Bridge Parties

What should we do without the unassuming cocktail? He is mixed, and in turn is one of the best mixers" we know. He helps to break the ice, and get people talk- ing before tifan or dinner. And what an excuse for parties on his own merits alone! Think of the numbers of people one can ask to these parties when it would be im- possible to have them to dinner.

The poor cocktall is often maligned. We hear of the vicious cocktail habit, but the people who are "Vicious about cocktails would, be vicious about some other drink If there were no cocktails.

It is interesting to know the de- tails about how cocktail originated. At the end of the last century in the Southern States of America people found it pleasant, as they, do in many other countries, to spend the hour before dinner sit- ting on their balconies admiring the setting sun and gossiping.

The Southerner enjoyed the leisure as a connoisseur of the good things of life, and wished to make this

time still more pleasant by having some thing particularly pleasant to drink. So he mixed a kind of cold punch, which was served from a large bowl and drunk out of tumblers.

The long drink gradually be- came shorter, meanwhile getting more popular all over ́America. It was first taken to England by the troops during the war and soon became the rage. No liqueurs" were used at this time, but they were added when the custom was introduced to France.

How The Name Originated The name cocktail is supposed

to have originated in this way, but there are several different versions of the story. A landowner, some- where in the Southern States, was entertaining a general.

His daughter, Coctel, in the ex- citement of preparing for the party mixed some drinks by mis tako. However, the general was very pleased with the result and be, christened the drink after the daughter of the house, and swore that he would make the drink famous in the army. ...

Nationalities differ very much in their choice of short drinks. Ame ricans like 'them dry, such as the Daiquiri and Dry American. South Americans like a San Martini. The French like them sweet-Clover... Club, Rose

ind Alexander. The Germans, and in fact most Соп- tinental folk, like very sweet cock. tials.

People who bali from Scandina- vian countries are faithful to their schnapps and punches. Dutchmen like one of their own" gins with "a touch of Angostura. English peo- pie like cocktails dry, but not as 'dry as the Americans take them

Short Life for New Concoctions

New. concoctions do not have a very long Bre as 巍 rule.

The

prime favourites are still Martixis. White Ladies, Side Cars and Bronx. Young people are most likely to advanture with Murder on the Second Floor and Batan's Whiskers. Martinis are drunk more than anything else, partly because they are one of the most inexpensive, and often because of anything else. people cannot be bothered to think

Tomato juice and passion fruit Juice are the latest, additions, the former was introduced about four years ago. It makes a nice clean drink taken with a dash of Wor-

on dark-coloured wool and linen frocks. A less coarse kind makes crisp-looking jabots for fallored suits, and in a still finer un-cester sauce and some celery salt: stiffened variety the lace mater- falises charming little frocks for

summer "afterioon: parties. An oatmeal-coloured one, worn with a three-quarters-length coat of brown" linen tweed was spe- clally admired the other day at a mid-season dress show. “.

In the Ballroom

1

some like the addition of sherry, and it is very popular with vodka. Here are some recipes recom mended by the cocktail mixer of "a famous London club.

|_ Diaquiri:—Two thirds Bacardı rum, one third lime juice, one tea- spoonful castor sugar.

French Rose:-One sixth Dubon. net, one third Cavalcados, "one" sixth cherry brandy, one sixth Gordon's gin.

Passion Fruit Juice:-One half Gordon's gin, one third passion fruit juice, one sixth French ver mouth, one sixth white Curacao.

San Martini:One half Gordon's gin, one quarter. Italian vermouth. one quarter. French vermouth

Some cocktails with unusual. flavours:

Even dance frocks give evidence of the pretty and practical quali- ttes of; cotton lace...a lovely-one. was worn at a debutante's party "a few nights ago by a girl who was presented at Court in May The lace, in a soft pale "blur red" pink tone guaranteed washable," by the way-formed the skirt of the gown, while a deep folded fichu of organdie in the same shade form the bod-.. ies. A cluster of pink and white Margot:One half Gordon's gin, organdie flowers finished the

one sixth Grenadine, one sixth Achu in front, and a smaller Maraschino, one sixth lemon juice, cluster was prettily posed in the Mademoiselle: One half apricot folds on the right shoulder. DA

brandy, one half orange bitters. further attraction: on this dainty Side Car: One third brandy dress was a group of pannter one third Cointreau, one third frills of the organdle set in at lemon juice. To make a Side Car either hip-line, They gave a platinfo an Earthquake add a dash of

ant, old-world, boating kind of grace to the frock, which was one of the most successful in the

vodka, da

American Dry Three fourthe Gordon's gin one fourth dry ver mouth, dash of orange bitters.