1934-07-06 — Page 3

Page

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY,

JULY

6, 1934.

FASHION NOTES FROM EVERYWHERE

(Special Air Mall Service)

London, June 20.

1934 MODE EASY TO TAKE

There Should be little com. plaint with the mode this spring. The frocks and hats and sults, etc., are exceedingly easy on the eyes and not hard to takė, More- over, they are very stimulating on the person, after this "unusual” winter."

Very trim and with a sugges-" tion of the nautical is the dark blue wool coat picture centre, with flaring lapels and cuffs of white pique. Large saucer but- tons of white enameled wood con- tribute their share to its smart- ness, which is completed by the cocky little hat worn by Thelma .Todd.

type, with dig-

If you are the a becoming touch ́of- nity. Like Dolores Del Rio. for instance. one of the new lovely prints like the one at the right, may be your choice. This one is black, white and red · made into a street dress. The belt of self-material fastens with a red buckle, which is the frock's only ornament. A large hat of black panamalne, ornamented with a single white flower, black kid gloves and black pumps and bag, complete the costume.

Now, as to hats, you "pays your money and takes your choice" of narrow brims, no brim, turban or beret, which you may wear back on your head, or toward the front. but always a bit to the side.

With a stunning black frock with white embroidered organ- dte lingerle touches and cape of luxurious silver fox. Jeun Ho- ward, film player, wears the peaked turban of fine black straw and lace; top left. Below that is informal sports beret, 3 most crocheted to accompany a short sleeved white sweater with tum- over 'collar. This beret is worn on the back of the head, and so is the halo hat of lacy straw, top right, worn by vivacious "Una- Merkel" A more demure model

is worn by the same player, be low-a new weave for spring, in white banded with navy. Unus- ual-rings of silver hold the navy band in place.

If you're minded to have your hat and scarf match, it's being done in the smartest circles. Black and white checked jersey make one of the sets from a foremost, milliner, both hat and scarf being banded in white.

BLACK AND WHITE

The liking for black and white does not weaken. The Vionnet white dress and white coat with black belt and black hat lead the fashion. A black dress with a white marocain coat and black hat is also in the Vionnet man- ner. Figured crepe dresses worn under long dark coats are fre-, quently black with a pattern of red and creamy white: the red and white are not heavy and leave. plenty of black back- ground.

In the evening pale figured." chiffon dresses with a wide square neckline, little full sleeves, skirts which have a very full hemi line, and sashes of narrow ribbon vel-. vet are often simple, yet often exquisite. Black is not much worn in the evening, ilght, de- ilcate colours are preferred. There are dresses of satin and crepe together with round. sweeping trains of satin flowing from satin panels; white and pale blue or

rose are colours which suit tall

women. Taffetas of flame col- our, deep rose or strong blue, look well. Most taffeta dresses are full in the skirt and Vionnet puts a sash with o" big bow and ads on the front. With a flame coloured taffeta Vionnet puts a draped short manon cape of slate grey tafeta lined with the flame colour, Lace dresses are

also worn. Fale beige "lace with short sleeves slightly stiffened suit a dark woman; a blonde can wear black lace cut low in the back and open in tronf; round the throat may be a slender lace band from which depende a full jabot

A few new light tweeds have been shown by Madeleine Vion- net. A light grey tweed with a cheviot design of darker grey and a thin line of green makes a coat and skirt with which is 'put a brown crepe blouse trim.

med with green buttons and a thin green belt. All jacket and coat sleeves are full above and about the elbow, and the Vionnet aleeves are cui deep into the back from a Raglan shoulder ime. The

skirts are all cut high, almost to a corselet line.

Worth makes criap "lingerie" pet- sicoats to wear under very limp chiffon dresses to give them sub- stance. This is a new departure. Now that real summer clothes are being worn the cape is made of dress materials; it dips be- hind and tapers to almost no- thing in front. For the evening It is longer; Molyneux's molte ribbon cape, for example, reaches well to the hips. Vionnet is mak ing long capes of light tweeds. The skirt or dress matches, and is not covered in front, where the, cape divides to make two straight lines; at the neck it closes with two big buttons.

It is now the day of the wide- brimmed flat crowned straw hat, highly lacquered, or dull. The draped beret is also coming in again, and the white Panama hat, with a soft brim which can Selifted, is growing in favour.

MID-SEASON. MODES

2

A Suit of natural-coloured linen has a jacket with a brown link- button fastening to match the brown of "brown" and white spotted surah waistcoat blouse and bow tle. The skirt is per- " féctly straight, with a clever ar- rangement of short pleats at the hemline in front.:

to

A new swagger is given coarse natural and white linen coats for wear with black skirts. Wheaten yellow is interesting as a nen colour. These coats end.. at half or hip length, and perch out at the back through single. embossed tucks

slanting down-

ward from shoulders to bems. One new model has a raglan shoulders fitting and yoke defined in black ..stitching.

Black patent leather buckle grips appeared on one of the most successful models of the season- a straighter line half-length coat

"THE COCKSCOMB”

12

(Special Afr Mall “Service;

London, June 16, Foman's latest style of hair- dressing was displayed it u West-End salon to-day, when three living models allowed. their locks to be draped into a design known as “the cocka- comb,"

With the exception vi

a few minute curls, the hair was brushed away from the angie uf the neck, towards the creation on the crown of the head. The less exaggerated forms of the iden were attrac tire enough, although how the prevailing style of hat will ride the wave only millipers know, There appeared" to be no suit- ully anchoring ground for any of the latest hats from Paris.

of white with a short cowl dip· at the back neckline. These loose coats are made from differ- ent types of coarse liner, and a new heavy white pique enters the fleld to go with a brown silken crepe dress that has a rough crumpled surface.

Lond skirts for social outdoor functions in the "open" look charming with Jackets in varied mood to cover the low-back de- colletes of tops. These tops bring a fresh allure to slenderly tailor- ed plain black and bright dark blue silken crepe skirts because

they are carefully chosen in col- oured floral-printed Chine and match semi-fitted Jackets slack coatees. "

of

Ruffles show between the front opening of trim, long-sleeved, short bolera jackets, in black silk worn with black skirts. Imagine these models with wide-brimmed black hats for an Ascot" occa- sion and an informal dinner par-

follow! Another type of

... atfernoon-cum-dinner "model ? Is attractive in dark grey and while pin-striped organdle with a small white coin spot. It has long. tight-fitting sleeves and a back peplum.

!

This combination cannot fall to command admiration in

the beach.

A Summer Problem DRESS PROFILE

Summer dresses were" never so cool. dainty, or comfortable to wear, A beautiful dress and cape entirely made of grey organza. shirred all over, for instance, has comfortable sleeves, loose and plċ- turesque. of a rather long three- quarter length, the transparent wider cuff falling away from the wrist.

No sleeves are tight. Even the long mitten type is easy-ntting. Hence the joy of best clothes this, season.

The dolman shape is used for the light wraps, and others of the aid bell shape fall back and are sometimes caught in near the el- bow, as, except for tailor-mades. the shoulder seam is very variable. Few sleeves are set in. Yet these raglan fittings are very difficult, and require expert management, How few women

understand the importance that les in the vast setting of the sleeve-top and the drapery of the neckline.

There is no doubt that looseness - at the neck and wrist helps to keep one cool. The open wrist and felling-away sleeves encour- age the long wrinkling gloves or decorative

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gauntlets. The mer glove can also be tool and transparent.

Spotted organza and plain net may be ruched and shirted "ke the dresses. Plala taffeta coloured coats of silk will have fajing- away bell or the dolman sleeves, and the same silk is used for the gloves, with important gauntlets decorated to match the painted design in chiffon or organdie.

Some charming light organdie and printed patterns in dresses with open necks and sleeves have a cape collar of black talle with long gloves of the Sarne. gloves are a great help to a de-

Cool

corative summer scheme, for on

really hot days no ordinary fitting glove is tolerated by the young. Older women may endure the dis- comfort for the sake of appear- ance..

A rich purple may seem to be on the warm side, but a number of Smart

wearing

women are now

purple in many ways. Specially good are coats, "short or long, in taille and tapeta over white, grey and palest, pink organdie and borderie anglais dresses.

One printed crepe toilet in a very dark purple had a pink, green and white design in field flowers. Wild flowered designs are most popular this season. Beyond The Real Cause

a cluster of white and purple Little Marjorie came to tell her clematis made of feather and a.. Sunday school teacher that she Achu-like corsage. this frock re-

Practical Points Women Should Study

(Special Air Mail Service)

London, June 20.

It is amazing how little impor- tance women attach to the mat- ter of "outline" when choosing their clothes. writes a correspon dent. They forget that the majo- rity of onlookers see them far more often in. profile, thap full face, and that

bad outline ruins an otherwise. lovely dress. The worst mistake is made in wearing & frock with a skirt which sags

at the

back. Cer- tainly the modern dresses

are very tight. and women do not seem to mind showing their figures; but, even so, there is a correct and an incorrect tight-

Your Hair..

If you have beautiful hair, and have the will to take pains with it, here is a direction in which you may go a long way. Keep It. light and fluffy by careful washing. brush it daily. watch it for signs of tiredness, correct it for over- dryness or oiliness. Keep it alive and well-groomed,

If you can. go'occasionally to a shop that gives a good scalp mas- sage and have a treatment. Note how all the knots in your neck are kneaded out," and your hair grows more softly shining.

If you can't do this massage your own scalp. Brush your hair lgbt and morning, with long. sweeping movements to stimulate the scalp and give the hair a love- ly sheen. This is a good habit for your whole being. You feel more alive after it. and those rhythmic movements do amazing things for your nel vES,

There's a great deal to be said. for the correct hairdressing, too. Your head should be studied as you would study a room, and real- ly decorated.

If your hair has a silken sheen. but is straight as a, poker, don't try to hurt it out or wear it in a long bob. Wear it straight with a low knot, and note its proud distinc- tion.

If your hair is naturally" curly, it's a crown and

a glory. Don't try to make it aleek or "sophis. ticated." A clever woman realises that her chief attraction Hes in her sleekhes and sophistication. so her hair is taken of ber fore- head in very loose waves, giving no suggestion of fussiness," If you have curly hair, wear it as best be- comes your face and your per- sonality, letting it wave as it will -and be thankful. The present styles of hairdressing are intrigu- ing, if it doesn't suit you.

8

down, just as a man does to his trousers. I know by experience that frock can be made to last the whole season without losing its line if this plan is followed. Avoid when

buying ready- made dress the garment which is badly cut in this respect, be- cause

it nearly always means that the material has been "scamped, and the frock in con-

sequence" does not wear well.

If you

Buffer from too long a waist-a fault very common, to Red and chalk white clips and English Agures--you mist be backle. Add a smart style note........ extra careful about this line, as to this white Matiasse sport dress

otherwise it causes you to look The worn by Madge Evans, Metro-far bigger than you are.

Goldwyn-Mayer player.

ness, and on many models this line at the back is particularly ugly. If the skirt is properly

making a dreadful hump and dragging at the same time across the hips, but will fit snugly.

would have to give up her part inquired no trimming. A sash of made it will not cut in sharply,

the Christmas exercise. "Oh, Mar- Its own material floated in the Jorie lamented the teacher; breeze. The sleeves fell away to "don't say that. Have you lost reveal long white suede gloves to Christmas spirit so soon, my match shoes and handbag. With dear?"

this a small bonnot shape in white straw was worn, again with the purple and white ciematia on crown and brim.

Marjorie shook her head. " "Not my Chrithmath thpirit." she lisped. "It "th" my front teeth."

The Frock That 'Wears

A great deal can be done to prevent a dress getting out, of shape by giving it a judicious twitch when the weard its

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hollow in the back can often be Alled in most successfully in a tailor-made, with a soft and shaped ped. This gives a straight line, and prevents "an ugly dip.

In an evening dress, a little gathering or skilfully applied fullness has the same effect..

Another fault is in allowing the skirt to stop at the wrong mo- ment. Now that skirts are lon- ger this is net so "obvious, but unless legs and ankles are per- fect there is always just one spot which is more becoming

FEATHERS ARE FASHIONABLE

Feathers are making a brave, show in the fashion world.

Whole capes are made of feat- hers. Ostrich 3.5 well as cock feathers are used, not only for wraps but to trim evening gowns and snart hats.

Sketched to-day is a cape made "trom brown ostrich feathers. . It is designed in the first place, as the, complement for an Ascot dress of printed "off white.".. brown and green chiron. But it is useful, too, as a light wrap ta. wear with an evening dress on a summer night -

The hat is of natural crinoline trimmed with one red, one white, and one blue daisy.

Generally Useful

Ascor dresses are sometimes said to be useless for other oc- casion's. This is absurd. Most of the Ascot frocks this year are equally well suited for evening KOWIS once the complementary coat or wrap has been removed. Printed crepe de chine is an alternative to printed chlori

A fine collection of dresses in both materials has been assem bled in number 17 department at "Jay's, Ltd., Oxford-circus, Regent

street, where our artist sketched the dress shown to-day.

Some of the smartest of these have patterns in clear vivid col ours against a black background. Black Background

One model shows white, red, and green leaves against a black background.

The dress is slit open from the neck downwards to a depth of several inches at the back, and has long sleeves.

A navy and white crepe de chine dress is worn with a navy taffeta 'coat.

"cocktail" DE

An attractive home dinner frock has a Chinese lantern pattern and a graceful little cape, edged, like the train: with a narrow blue ruche.

Field Howers.. in natural col- ours are used over and over again. Materials printed with these flo- wers are so gay that the frocks for which they are used need no trimmings.

POSTURE

The charming Lillian Harvey. who has one of the most perfect of figures in all of Hollywood, weighs only 98 pounds.

Lillian, however, is very small boned and slight. In addition to slender- ness, she also

possesses perfect proportions. And, is absolutely flawless is every respect.

most

Perfect proportions are Important for gure beauty, of course. But posture is just as

important a factor. For perfect posture can often overcome the 'bad points of a poor figure. While poor posture can diminish the loveliness of an otherwise flaw- less figure. The girl who helds her head well, who stands erect and moves with a youthful grace. almost always appears to have a better figure than more perfectly- formed girl who slouches and seems awkward and dumpy.

There's another reason, how ever, why perfect posture is an. important factor in figure beauty. And that reason is that proper bearing lessens the 'Hability of excess Дesh accumulating on the

than any other, and it is only possible to and this out by ex- perimenting

Look for yourself next time at somebody standing against.. the зky with their skirt just the wrong length and be guided for future occasions. The same ap- plies to the length of the jacket, which, in profile, is most impor- tant. There is no need to deviate from the dictates of fashion, for half an inch either way

will make all the difference.

Few women realise that the hat line should be chosen to suit the chin and jaw. If a woman has lost or never possessed that lovely clean sweep from chin to ear, she must be very careful not to accentuate the fact by hat or beret.

the

: Chins And Hats A receding chin needs most careful attention, for some- thing off the face" in addition to the weak line of jaw gives the impression of the whole face having slipped.

*

Next time when choosing clo thes remember this, and also re- member that you do not always ・ stand erect, so see what the dress looks like when not "at atten-.. tion."

On the other hand a

dress which needs careful mana- ging may lead its owner to adopt. a better carriage. I remember orce having a gold lamé gown,. which never allowed me to relax for a moment, nor incidentally to eat a good dinner!

DOES YOUR GOWN APPEAR MOULDED TO YOUR FIGURE OR JUST HANGING FROM THE SHOUL- DERS

DO YOUR CLOTHES LOOK "SCIENTIF- ICALLY STYLEDOR JUST SHAPELESS COVERINGS? BECAUSE THEY ARE CERTAIN- TIES EUNICE" GOWNS ARE AN INVESTMENTI

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Women's Fashions Give More Pleasure

(Special Air-Mail Service)

London, June 20.

The brightening of women's dresses in the past quarter of a century and the pleasure that it... has given, was instanced as one. of the happy justification's of creating new demands in Glas-" gow recently at the annual con- 'vention of the Stationers' Aso- ciation of Great Britain and Ire- land

"The luxuries of to-day "the

necessities of to-morrow," stated Mr. F. J. Marquis, mana- ging director of Lewis's Polytech- nic, in

a paper on "Retailing. Present and Future," which was read by Mr. 8. H. Leake owing to Mr. Marquis being absent through illness.

Wise SpendingTM

The process is going on," said Mr. Marquis, "We have but to look at the dress-particularly of women of the artisan class of to-day, with all its brightness. cheeriness, style. and taste. and compare it with the conditions of 25 years ago, when it was strictly utilitarian and drab and made for lasting rather than for pleasure. In all sorts of walks of life this process has beeri go- ing on."

He was sure they had got to learni from the idea that life should be made fuller and that the pleasure of spending should be more widespread. Not that they should not take thought for the future. but too great a regard could be given to

the value of denying themselves full- ness of life in the present in order to protect themselves from the danger of the future."

body. Good posture. permits the-- perfectly normal functioning of the entire body. It permits the idngs to fill freely with fresh air. thus insuring the body a copious supply of oxygen. And oxygen tends to break down fat and build up firm flesh.

Poor posture really interferes with weight reduction. Your body » requires a great deal of oxygen, to help burn up the excess adi- pose tissues that have piled up..

But if

your

shoulders

you atand with Bagging and your abdomen protruding. you interfere with

your breathing. As a result, you na- turally don't draw the fail, deep breaths, that you should, and you' limit, the supply of oxygen that your body needs to oxidize the surplus fat,

A slouching posture is also de- trimental in that it slows up' the? blood circulation in your body, And for the overweight individ- ual, a brisk, vigorous circulation is almost a reducing agent in It self. It carries off, waste mater- ls, tones the muscles, keeps the times active, and makes it Im possible for fat to accumulate.