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14
CLOTHES AND THE WOMAN
The Teens, The Tweenies
And The Twenties
(Special Air-MallTM Service)
London, May 16. Noel Coward. In "Words and Music," made his three gurces sing of "the heavy task of being young." Well, of 'course, all' this diberty does get a bit tiring in it- self; and then their is the con-
or like velvet; or like cream cheese ia fascinating suede-y look) there is a great quantity of cotton which looks unashamedly, like cotton. Last year it overdid the business. gate-crashed into ball- rooms, and flaunted itself at the "
stant wear and tear of exhibiting »... brocaded dowager in the hope of
it with defiant pride` to elders who have no intention of interfering with anything so terrifying. But (very fortunately), among the an- clént habits the poor dears- have been unable to shed is that of supposing that they have to pay the bills for clothing their pro- geny.
These go in inverse ratio to the amount of material required. Five foot six of slim daughter wears something less, than a millimetre thick of cobweb fabric, and it can't need more than a few in- ches to go round her, and it be- gins low at the top in front, and probably does not begin at the top at all behind, and all that fluffy round her ankles can't be really
* expensive but just look" at the
bills the wretched child runs up!
Rhadamanthine,does each par-'
ent aspire to seem to the other in the consideration of the bills the wretched child runs up; but each is aware of that weakness, that ridiculous melting, about how sweet the wretched child looks,"" "Bless her in private. .paren- thesis.)
It is lucky for these background people, these gruff authorities (well known by both parties to be made of candid toffee, otherwise fudge), that the textiles trades of England have suddenly come to the rescue.
#
Cotton on The Map There was a time when every- body oid-thitry or more, possibly even the autumn tint of twenty- seven-bad to wear thick majes- tic silk. And the really young had to wear silk too, but it was what passed then for thin-mere- ly taffetas, or that kind of what- "
not.
Now we have all taken silk. Without necessarily becoming King's Counsel, and usually not sounding like them. It is avail- able to us for every purpose and every, degree. Meanwhile, Lan- cashire is putting cotton all over the map, and over as much of " the young person as she consents to cover.
..
Quite apart from the cotton that looks like tweed, or like silk,
TO-DAY
IS
$10.50
«
DAY
Quality" garments can never be "Cheap" although My Latest collection proves that they can be most reasonably priced.
eunice
surprising her into breaking the altitude record for eyebrows. "How now, my ancient of days?"" cried the cotton ball-gown
But ancients of days are not al- ways such easy game as the spor¬ tive young would like; a Royal, godmother became unable to see an over-cottoned but underclad godchild from beneath a tiara im- possible to all but a duchess a grandmotherly chuckle accom- panied the remark that it was a funny little frock, my dear, but practical top; it would cut up into such nice kitchen cloths,
It has taken the hint, and cons tented itself with the fresh woods and pastures new, not to mention the beaches, meads, and other parlleus, in which the teens, the tweenies, and the twenties," are.. preparing to enjoy themselves. Cotten, musiin, flowered chiffon. organdie (less of this than last. year); are to be worn in a thous and varieties by the grandchild; it is needless to add that they will also be worn by all grandmothers who have confidence in that awk- ward coastline which runs below the profile from the upper chin. to the lower ear,
Checks.
Check cottons are taken for granted, but the sizes and colour- ings of the checks are infinite in their variety, and it will take a lot of custom to stale them, Here's a. young thing in a wrap-over beach or river dress. She is so slim that she can plank large. round buttons here and there, and still be a longitude and not a latitude. This is Mateen, one of the cottons shown by Nicoll's cot- ton shop. It is check, and has a square collar, but naturally it "doesn't bother with sleeves.
Who's afraid of the big bad el- bow? Not the girl of to-day, who doesn't cup her chin long enough in thinking to point her elbow: She is wearing short sleeves and 'big gauntlets, and with complete self-confidence displays her, el- bows between the two...
She
she is
Is also so slim that
wearing capes,
and
gar-
cape-coats.
ments
10
One of the the Nicoll cotton
show is a sort of Inverness pins a coat. with a belt that shows
MILLINERY FASHIONS
-Brims turn up and down some are wide and flat. Tucks are used for trimming. For Ascot and other smart occasions, there Peninsula Arcade, Kowloon. are picture hats or ogandle with the brim stitched to within an inch or so of the soft uphemmed edges of the material. To wear with cotton dresses there are hats of stitched surah trimmed with a simple band of ribbon, or flat 'Breton sailors, made from pilable piece straw.
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how slim you are, and a blow- blow-thou-summer-wind attach- ment which keeps you warm and makes you dandy,
The young things must also no- tice the frilled shoulder, the frill- ed skirt, the quilted shoulder-. plece, the enormous bow (but please be careful), the little hun- chy-up blouse that make your ear-curt one with your shrug, and the wild, jabot, that cascades your tartan or your flowered blouse.
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, JUNE 1, 1934.
THIS SEASON'S
DICTIONARY OF FASHION
From
"Angel's Skin" To "Chicken Skin"
What's in a name. A ‘fashion - success is the modern answer to the old familiar question—when the name involved happens to be that of a dress fabric.
.
Each season brings its tex:lle debutantes--silk, wool and cotton --to the Court of Fashion, and it - is essential that every smart woman should at least have a knowledge of their names, and
typen.
The dress
༣.
parades that take place early in the year at the dress-houses and leading shops are the scene of the first formal presentation, and showrooms and shopwindows quickly bring about.. a closer acquaintance. Before a new dress season "is" beyond. ita first youth most women пат made good progress in the new .. language and idiom of fashion.
Many of the new names are of short dated currency, mere gate- Crashers, others become establish- ed successes. There is that world popular fabric, georgette, its name of romantic origin, tribute to a. woman's charm and beauty; fame. the glistening metallic fabric that has given lustre to court and evening gowns; angel's skin and similar materials of delicate
bloom: satin beaute and many
other fabrics that have remained consistently in the affections of modern women over several -seasons.
Old world favourites. too" have come back, the failles, tafietas, moires and even the Duchesse satins of Edwardian brides.
Organdie, the simple muslin of early ..Victorianism-now in many new and wonderful edit- tons and exotic_coleurings, `in-. cluding organza, the silk variety of the present season-is an other revival that in its latest form is really a new production.
The Bemi-transparent The influence of the sporta- loving modern age, with its cult of air and sun, will be seen this summer in the vogue for semi- transparent fabrics. · These are woven with pin-prick holes to admit the sun and will make summer coats and frocks,
Women will wear materials woven with the hair of goats. calves, rabbits and other animals, "Goats' hair a the name of a new artificial alk woven with this hair, that will be used for summer dresses,"
Many of the angoras are hairy, and "neufilots" is the name of. a botany wool modernised by being woven with these long,
loose hairs. ~
Chair de poule is one of the most fashionable evening fåb- rics. It has a dull satin angel's skin back, and a matt surface, supposed to resemble the skin of a chicken.
Women will bless the manu- facturers who evolved almost uncrushable. fabrics for the
"
Courts. Tinsel' asterisque is being made into gowns for the Courts ... on May 15 and 18. It owes its uncrushable nature to the fact that it has woven net back and a bumpy design. Hre an as- terisk.
NEW SUMMER FASHIONS
"
Launched On The Stage
(Special Air-Mall Service)
London, May 16: Summer fashions are beginning to appear on the stage. Miss Dorothy Hyson's simple green linen "dress, 'with tiny - aleeves, Miss Marie Ney's hopsack belge "cardigan suit, worn with a mul- berty coloured jumper and beret, and Miss Oriel Ross's Palm crui- sing cost of light navy blue dannel, worn over a cherry red crepe frock," will be some of the modes of the moment that will Interest the audience at Miss Dodle Smith's new play, "Touch, Wood," at the Haymarket Theatre to-morrow.
Been
Other summer-like creations in this play include Miss Hyson's sleeveless afternoon frock of tea- rose crepe de Chine, frilled round the neck and bottom of the skirt. Mackintosh modes" are seldom on the stage. Miss Oriel. Ross will, however, wear one of the new mackintoshes tailored to the figure. It is of white crepe marocain with' facings of water- proofed black velvet. With it is worn |a tight-fitting - black and ・ white tailored frock, - cardinal- shaped black tamo-shanter, and black and white checked scarf,
SMART WOMEN FIRST ANNIVERSARY SALE
Adopt Modes Of Jane Austen
“(Special Ak-Mall Service)
J
London, May 18. Friis, ruches and Qusker bows, Medici collargTM" and puff sleeves, Lowers made of tulle and used for throatlets, undersleeves or hate hands.. It is a season of novelties · In, dress etceteras for ̈morning...... afternoon or evening wear:
Organzas, laces, printed orêpes, -- horsshair and string; no matter what the material, clever desig- mers of" "extras" have brought everything into, their scheme for
the lure of the well-dressed wo- man in search of smart novel- ties. Not only collars and fronts, but sleaves as well are sold and made separately now, so adapted that they can, be worn either over or under afternoon and evening dresses,
One of the most amusing of these novelles is the set of alee- ves and collar made up of flowers. 'These can be of white organza,
or in any of the pale pastel col- ́· ours used for this type of dress "extra". The organza flowers are attached to an under-lining of muslin which can be sewn into the frock. There is another. charm design in pale turquoise, blue gauffered net which is made with an butside collar and slee- ves. These crimped effects are very much used in muslin' which can be sewn into the track, for collar and cum sets. In the model, filustrated the upper cape tles 'on at the back of the neck in a smart little "bow Tuckers" and outside collars of múslín and face have separate balloon sleeves to match. These Jane Austen modes suit the simple slender. lines of the day- time frocks of this season, and can be worn with equall charm with the full-skirted, more elabor- ate looking picture frock.
String Like Lace
For the older woman lace is a favourite medium for these fas- cinating accessories. There is a new design in fine white string which has the appearance of lace,... eut with a slight Medici collar and shoulder capa; This is attached to front and back panels, which are tacked inside the frock.
To wear with the hip-length coated summer costume, a new bandkerchief stock-tie front has been designed. This is made of soft printed crepe in effective colourings, and is so cut that it can be worn instead of a blouse. The front, attached to the scarf tie, is cut on tailored lines to lie flatly under the cost; the waisi is arranged with a fat bow fas- tening at the back The scart crosses over at the back of the neck and ties in a smart bow in front.
STYLES FROM PARIS
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A DREAM OF FAIR
Splendour Of Dress
(Special Air Mail Service)
Light wraps- a combination of bolero and cape, adjusted to the' waist. They fasten behind or in front, and have sash belts. The. shoulder Une is raised by flat draperies, little capes, pinched tucks held by jewelled clips. High necklines are caught by metal links; metal buttons trim shoul ders. The cost-frock has the Chinese sleeve which falls wide from the wrist. A new skirt has swallow-tail- back drapery, Bodices are a good deal trimmed In front with itching, buttons, draperies, of bibs, and there are crisp organdie jabots, frills and. fronts. Light dresses appear, under black, navy blue or brown coats. Belge and brown are com- ing back info, fashion and pale and dark green is being tried. White coata and jackets, of erepe; linen, or pique go well with blackfied ten-fold. *** dresses. "Many evening dresses have draped shoulders, and backs cut low under the arms.
A Feather *** Wings " Botne novel fashions wili sworn by Miss Mary Clare in "No Way Back at the Whitehall Theatre on Thursday.
There is a cape for each shoul- der of a delphinium blue negligee with pointed train. The capes are, of long pink ostrich plumes, and look like folded wings.
."
· London, May 16, Last night was magical. Every first night at a London theatre. has its own atmosphere, and there is always that air of my- stery, wondering expectation, and anticipation of the unknown de- lights to come, but in Covent Garden at the opening of the season this atmosphere is magni-
Charged with this magic and mystery, a thousand beautiful wo- men gathered in the foyer, which is all too small for such a crowd. Moving on and ever on, through. the many doors, and pausing as in a gallery on the wide staircase, "was a thròng cager to be pleased' with all the evening had in store. Debutantes were glancing about them, eyes wide open at the dis- play of jewels; dowager ladies held up their long trains with re- membered 'akill, and the younger, wearers of this new fashion. suf- fered the pulling of their beauti- ful fabrics, as the trains caught under many feet, and were tram-
A daffodil yellow taffeta tubular gown has a narrow foam of grey chiffon rules escaping round the hem and forming a small train, and a pouter effect made by apfed upon unheedes chon of grey ruffes on the front of the corsage,
"
A crisp, stand-up bow of black snakeskin inishes the neck of a russet, tunic over a narrow black skirt.
"A blus contes of quilted glazed chintz is worn in the same play over an Empire style white, and silver evening gown
There was so much to be seen at Covent Garden last night, the memory is but a vague dream Colours pass like the prismatic glories of a sunrise, the illusion of changing clouds is but the wonderful charm of beautiful gowns Jewels dash and tiaras are mounted high, but the Eare urls of youthhold their own
WOMEN
charm despite the more brilliant display around them.
The Royal Party Whispers were soon heard—the King and Queer of Slam had en- tered the Royal box.
This little Queen is simply dressed. She is wearing a pale cream gown, with short straight. ... sleeves, and her coat had white fur round the collar. Her jewels
· are not 'apparent, but when the lights go up again it is „noticed that he is wearing a large pend- ant jewel on a slender chain.
In the same box la Princess Helena Victora, dressed in palest aquamarine blue, with allver se- quins and long ropes of pearls. Near her sits the Princess Marie Louise in black tulle, eagerly watching every movement on the stage, where the fine scenery at- tention in the opera "Fidelio."
Up the stairs sweeps the-Mar- chiloness of Carisbrooke, in white, with dainty fringes on her dress cross-wise, and a short cape of snowy ermine. The Mamuts of Carlsbrooke accompanies her, and she is greeted by many friends on all sides, vel
The Marquis of Londonderry entersślone, but is soon... STEP- rounded by others; and "Lady": Cunard, in sapphire blue, with jewelled tiara and bracelets, her ermine coatslipping from ber shoulders is a certain, guest, on this apers occasion.
Val Feathers and FlowerRNA SO
One remarkable feature of the night is the display of fea thers, making cascades, cloaks, and elbow. hes on many lovely gowns,"
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