1934-04-27 — Page 3

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Influences From The East

Eve

GLOVES in

WHITE LACE, PIQUE

BIEGE-CHAMPAGNE from $2.75

WAS LING

DRESSES

from

6,China Buildings, $8.50

Pedder Street

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS. FRIDAY, APRIL 27, 1934. FABRICS OF THE PAST

Old-world Silks For Summer Modes

PARIS FASHIONS

Mayo's

HOPPE

HONG LONG

BOWS CAN HELP

Two Trends In Evening Dress

(Special Air-Mail Service)

London, April 10.

There are several striking styles in the evening mode 1934, of which the two most important trends are the moulded line, and the fluffy feminine, vogue. Cut and fabric determine which of these styles it shall be, and line and trimmings emphasise the effect.

The bow is the favourite de-. coration when the more feminine trend is stressed. The butterfly- bow is always attractive, Bows appeared last season in organdie, and on many day frocks, and relieved the severity of the tailor- made by accompanying blouses of white cambric." The 'season

the bow appears in taffeta, and satin as well as organdle. Many evening frocks of plain satin are adorned with bows of embroider- ed stiffened organza and satin. ribbons.

In the case of the girl or young married woman, the slim silhouette Is adhered to, and gaiety is provided by the bow. applied and worked in a variety » Do ways. From a practical point of view the bow. this season should prove most helpful, espe-" cially to the young, who. can afford to which thetr shoulders and hip-line. Any plain after- or evening frock can be given a new appearance by the bow-trimming.

'noon.

Layers Of Taffeta

The "typhoon" silhouette is an amusing exaggeration and not too practical. But two or three graduated tiers forming a stif cape-uke berthe on the shoulders tying in a bow on the front is charming. Similar layers can "fasten into three big loops at the back, low down; hence the stiffened bow movement. Taffeta always forms a good bow; a dark printed crepe or satin dress can

The Petal Neck sweater Rises high about the throat, worn in navy blue knit wool with white kalt beach slacks by Mary Carlisle, Metro-Goldwyn- Mayer player.

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thus be trimmed with the popular ALL SHADES

taffeta a shade lighter.

.

For summer days youthful and smart muslin dresses can carry out a black-and-white, pink-and white, or any other colour scheme on the same lines. Again the bow happy one. Classic idea is a evening frocks of white satin look well with a folded Bichu, and the ultra-large bow and ends fris- hing in the style of Louis Days, but here the bow is soft and drooping..

For day-time the wide bow. sometimes spread out in jabot form, is a favourite way of giving the lighter touch to dark dresses. of taffeta or georgette. The crispness of cambric or the "organza group always makes a perfect contrast to severe fabrics such as faille or taffeta. In this way the severe and more femi- rine styles are combined

·

More Costly Hats Dress is greatly assisted by the trend in this season's millinery. The designers of hats are intro- ducing more costly and dressier styles. There is not necessarily much trimming, but this trend is seen in the amount of hand-work uced, and the variety of fabrics, feathers and novel straws. ·Ai-. though soft straws designed on simple lines, have possibly but a bow or tiny, feather fantaste as decoration, this is sure to repre- sent the most intricate workings.

Brims later on will be larger, but spring always demands small well-atting shapes. Bows are.. 'a very favourite.mid-season deco- ration. A shining up-turned small type of sailor straw in navy is smartly trimmed with a black and scarlet ribbon of cellophane," tied in two or three smali "bows, A brim-vell may be added to em- "phasise the fly-away look of the

lighter spring shapes.

A Ribbon Season*

To wear with tailor-mades for the fickle month of April, sailors, turbans or boaters, trimmed with youthful bows and vells, are ideal." For a little fater on, and to carry out the scheme of the 'crepe or silk ensemble the improved pan- cake-crown with a more picture- sque polse will forecast a summer Vogue.

Feathers continue to make ap- peal, but bows of all kinds sèem. more. favoured than flowers. It is undoubtedly a ribbon season; and the gay touch provided by the many plaid and fancy ribbon. designs is more suitable for the tailored suit than dowers can be.

BLUE

There is a decisive revival, In colours from most periods of in- terest in history, but in many cases the newer shades appear to be offshoots from more familiar dyes. This is largely owing to the" curious soft sheen or gauzy look "with which fashion vells her

fabrics this season.

the

"Another important item is the tinsel or spangle weave that im- parts & certain solidity to moré fragile tulles, and silken organzas.

OLD BUT NEW

Ottoman silk. old but new in make, is used in many guises. in all-white it is lovely: in black possibly a lttle heavy. A pale champagne shade of ottoman used for a semi-evening' tollette, with the only trimming a twist of dead-gold and worn with old" gold cloth shoes and gloves to Such beauty match was good.

of fabric, combined with ultra- simple but chic accessories, really. does achieve attractive results of an unusual nature.

Ottoman, taffeta, fallle and sa- tin. like velvet are all perfect backgrounds for jewels, or orna ments of value. There is a quiet distinction about the "amalgama- Apart tion of the rich and rare. from real gems of value, there has arisen a cult for the semi- precious stones, new and curious clips, rings, vanity cases and no- vel accessories.

Certain barbaric ornaments are used with fitting fabrics and col- ours. The influence of the Orient always leads to the exotic gar-

ments..

VOGUE FOR WHITE

as

All the old-world materials are so suited to the many styles in garinents of grace, known rest-wraps or tea-gowns For summer many créations of indi- vidual character will be in white, for the wearing of white is again In the ascendancy. Heavy white satin may take the place of angel, velvet.

Chiffon mounted on soft silk is lovely in white and all the far- hionable fondant shades. Somer

designed on tea-gowns will be Empire lines, with an. embrol- dered belt marking the higher waist and worn with fascinating Ettle

embroidered costees of

OF taffeta. The coatee and the fri-

To Be Worn This Season

Special Air-Mall Service

London April 10. Blue must rank as first favour- ite this season. It is charming when woven with sand-coloured canvas fabrics, Every shade of blue, old and new, fills the col- our card. Dark and brighter havy, deep Madonna" blue; the duct's and linnet's egg shade, and the new soft tone known as Sandringham blue, a favourite... colour of the Queen's.

are

There is a smart light sapphirë shade and a darker moonlight

evening. blue for

The bright Rickett's tone is not so good, for crude colours are in abeyance this season, though there plenty of bright tones such as lacquered Chinese reds and greens, yellow and shrimp-pink..... Pastel-Linted tones are favour- ed, and specially suit the fabrics of fashion. Wild rose pink and the 18th century brown, beige, yellow and almond-green perfect in taffeta, Taille and all crepes and gauzes. Softest wool materials also look their best in faint blended colours,

are

Old-world lilac and lavender organza are a pleasing back- ground for the pastel-tinted for- al postes that will appear in de Iaine and mousseline-de-sole. Lame is lovely in softly woven pinks and blue, flecked with gold and silver sheeris.

Copper, too, is woven into the brown scheme with charming re- „ sults. Young people will have plenty of fondant shades to choose from. Nothing is prettier for the young girl than these col- ours in chiffons, tulles or organ- dles These fabrics suit the more elaborately trimmed hats.

The new woven gold or silver lame is now backed with a solid white satin. This is ideal for bri- dal robes and a perfect fabric for the moulded, slightly mediae- val trend of fashion," N

• In contrast to this style is the Empire silhouette, also tight but high-waisted, and at its best per- fact” in satin or silk.

The latter will, however," come

·with the sun,

7

volous little capes are charming in the old-world silks, such as faille, damask and taffeta. They are trimmed in fanciful ways with

short fringes, ruches and ruffles.

This is the moment to unearth hoarded pearl, steel," and suver buttons, filagree buckles, bran- ches of coral, drops of gold, clips in metal and pins of jade and crystal...

There are 'old braids feathers, wings and quills that for years have not seen the light of day. but which can be utilised. this season.

We must not forget to hunt ai- so for treasures that at one time came with such regularity from

Brown Jewellery Vogue

There is an attractive display of novelty necklaces to wear with the new spring dresses, Crystal, amber, jade, coral, and cornelia are used in plaque form set in large links in fat, square, or oval shape

"

The feeling for turquoise bines has brought all blue stones into prominence. Aquamarine, · tur- quoise. and lapis lazuli are among the favourites. The duck egg blue launched this spring- the pastel tone which is a par ticularly successful evening colour-takes a contrasting jewer artificial scheme in the new. pearl shades. deep rich-looking- coffee-coloured creams and browns, some quite dark, many of the new back necklaces are shown in these colourings;

وسعه

The vogue for brown "jewels" is noticeable in the stained and poilshed wood plaque necklaces and other forms of jewellery. These are strung with pearls,

small, or large or

some other sort of coloured bead in: between the wooden plaques. Then there Bre

pearl the flat mother of necklaces with discs arranged in" graduated sizes. "

Blown Glass

The idea of clear glass globe beads filled with coloured water is still popular. The pearls are strung" in graduated sizes, the largest in the centre. The fas- hion might have been inspired by the old-fashioned bottles of coloured water still displayed in chemists' shop windows. In one interesting design the globular beads of blown glass are filled with a different colour, white, orange, red, and green.

In a design destined to wear with a cruising frock the clasp is a bright blue anchor in enamel the glass globes filled with water, and the centre bead globe has a tiny floating fish in bright blue and scarlet enamel.

Ir

Spun glass bangles in rainbow tints, with each bangle a diffe- sold in seta. rent colour, are Necklaces of twisted strands of gun metal wire, and plable snake...

braclets made of necklets and many discs closely strung to- gether, all have decorative clasps, in colour.

remote parts of the Indian Em- pire-beautiful materials in rare colourngs. Silk from China and Japan are usable, and what of the quaint little gofferings and embroidered muslins and 'ker- chiefs from more recent collec- tions which are so easily and at tractively worked into jabot and fichu.

So many delightful old-world fashions have come back or are trying to!!

One of the many ways in which you can do your hair.

Chinese and Japanese influence on dress is now apparent. It is most to be remarked in the cloths of Molyneux, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, and Worth,

In a long tunic of Agured black and white, the Chinese cut of shoulder, the beltless waist, the straight, slim line from waist to knees, and the wide sleeves fal- ling from seamless shoulders are... entirely eastern. Worth has "a short spotted summier skirt cotton, with which he puts a creamy. woollen blause cut on kimono lines with long, wide sleeves; into the woollen aleeves are woven two wide bands, one dt bright colour to match the skirt, and the other of grey; round the waist is a MAITOW Japanese sash; the hat is n pointed. Chinese straw. Again "there are mandarin evening coats of flowered silk, fastening high to the neck if need be. Molyneux „gives" a Japanese cut to his wide "arm and shoulder bands, and he also makes the straight tunic. This tunic may be made with » a silm line reaching well below the knees, fuller in front than be hind, and with a slight rise at the waistbelt; or the line may be shorter in front; with - adip behind. Also there is the full. short tunic which is sometimes called à peplum, and is of lame for the evening, figured crepe, or soft satin for the afternoon.

Loose-fitting printed coats of three-quarter length, with wide are" in sleeves, and scarf ties, fashion, With a plain summer woollen skirt there may be a figured blouse cut as a waistcoat in front, and a figured coat which can be worn with other plain -- skirts of any colour in- cluded in the printed design; the materials are often cotton pique, silk crepe, tafetas, and alpaes. Light woollen costumes, plain and gured, have been made. plain woollen coat and skirt go with an overcoat of pat- terned tweed. elther checks, broken plaids, or stripes. Ao overcoat may be close fitting or loose; "Chanel has a coat which fits in the back and falls straight, in front. Figured crepes and silks. handknitted Jumpers with front fastenings, and washing pique waistcoats with short sleeves are among the blouse fashions.

A

Maggy Bouff has made a three- material suit for town. The skirt. is of a light black. summer Woollen; the short jacket is of black taffetas with shiny satin spots; and the blouse has a full jabot from of fine white organdle worked into openwork patterns. A hat is a shiny black straw trimmed with a sharp black quill. Loose white pique coats will appear in the summer with black or navy-blue skirts and hats,

Tulle, net, lace, organdie, and chiffon dresses are used for the evening, whether black or white. or Bured with checks, stripes, or coloured plaids. The skirts are full about and from the knees. Chanel has a black silk lace dress which has a bodice "with a tran sparent back and a long, full train". tulle edged with lace. A white organdie dress has full, loose- frilled sleeves, and frills, though larger, trim the skirt. chiffon, black, white, or on a pale colour, is also used for evening dresses, which may have stirr a bow "sashes of ribbon tied to

with long ends. Plain ciré ribbon ls for belts and sashes on Agured crepe and chiffon dresses. Marce Rochas makes evening dresses of crisp lace with hip-length capes and big hitata. One is of pale apple-green lace; rhine stones go with it. A black spotted net dress, with full, rippling back

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FAST COLOURED COTTONS

Shirtings, Poplins, Linettes, Stripes, ete.

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Children's Clothing

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Professional Clothing

Tennis Court Screens

Fast to washing, sunlight, wear and weather.

TACK SHING CO.,

223, Queen's Road, Hongkong, (one block before Central Theatre)

Dress For The Debutante

Special Air-Mall Service

London, April 10, Some of the old-world fashions are so attractively youthful and so full of fascinating fal-lala that even the dress creators of the severely classical school must get amusement out of these frilly delights from other days.

The value of the simple classic moulded silhouette is never chal- lenged Still, there are young and piquant debutantes. to be clothed, and for them there are all sorts of interesting frills and furbelows that can ring many rpore "changes than they hoped for. In fact, the debutantes can get much joy from choosing their. new evening" "dresses. From a practical point of view it is help ful to be able to have extra ber- thes of net or a pleated frill, or to wear a rustling silk slip under rose-coloured organdie," as a change from one of printed tai- feta,

can Their dressmakers

bring frocks that are not quite new UD io date by a cascade of bustle- frills down the back. Floral pe- tals of green can form shoulder- straps and a wide ceinture for their creamy georgette frocks. Their crepe shoes can be dyed and worn with a pochette or fan to match.

I saw bright pink taffeta ru- ches trimming a black charmeuse.. evening gown, and the effect was charming. The ruche of pink cleverly concealed where a wide- trained flounce of black satin bad brought a straight skirt into the season's line. A narrow sash of taffeta finished in loops below the waist and a ruche of the same over the shoulder gives the Impression of butterfly sleeves. Black shoes and black gloves®

were worn.

4!

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THE GOLDEN BRIDE

The sut muslins this season: The newest bridal fabric is a are revived in many guises. The organza range may be plain or gally decorated. They have a fresh, crisp look, and yet are diaphanous" and soft, with a ric- her, softer änish than the old mousseline-de-sole,"

A pale green ground with tiny cluster of darker green ivy leaves has stalks of gold thread. This was made up over pale gold tissue and worn with golden shoes and a little kimono, of gold lined with the organza design:

The squareness of the new de colletage can be emphasised by the Edwardian trimining of velvet or silk flowers all round-often including the back. Blender gir lish figures well in this somewhat stiff vogue. Feathers are more becoming for the soft frongs can fall on to the bare arms almost to the elbow. A pale blue or ganza model cut to touch the ground had the hem trished with decolletage to match and a waist- band of plaited feathers.

MTAKA, D draperies ending in a long train. and the front of the skirt dat and slim, goes under a black satin coat with a bird tall back and very full sleeves,

lame, woven with. gold or silver and backed with white satin. Gold is the leading vogue for this season, and a golden bride can be very unusual;

One important London dress of this artist makes good use lovely fabric for a golden bride. The moulded gown is simply fas hioned, but suggests mediaeval splendour.

Over the golden train comes a mass of shadowy tulle which rests on a chaplet of golden leaves."

charming bridesmaid's gift would be one of the newest cry- stal rings with golden clip. There is a craze at the moment for cry- stal and gold.

GRASS-CLOTH

An interesting revival in colour" and material for summer is grasscloth. This sandy shaded fabric is a sort of unbleached linen or fine canvas.LANG now often woven with a gold, silver or coloured thread: Originally it was mixed or woven with real grass-green fibre, It makes a smart combination for ammer ensemble.