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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS. FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 1934.
Paris Style Shows Reveal Silks And Chiffons
Oriental Motif
Paris, The Swo outstanding silhouettes evolving from spring styles shown at the openings make a striking contrast. You can look like a pleture from the Far East or like an eighteenth century Agure come to life.
The first one creates a distinct- ly Oriental impression and often La completed by Chinese coolle hats. One house showed Chin- ese lantern sleeves coolie,
on conta.
are
delves
Molyneux stresses the Japanese silhouette which is enhanced by novelty floral prints in Oriental -colorings. Such costumes
topped by shallow cartwheel and square-brimmed hats.
The other silhouette deeply into the past for its in- spiration, Augustabernard adopts 1880 lines for evening with much bust emphasis. Peplums and tunics are in evidence. And frlily. frothy petticoats that show and swish noiselessly when you dance are revived.
#
Coutouriers have gone back to pre-war days, taken an idea here and there, and sewed them right into fashions for 1934. For in
cari- stance, hobble skirts and
2 wheel mush-room, hats are re- vived for both day and evening wear. Feathered capes and bats. contribute to the pre-war fuf- Aness
trend. Bhaded ostrich plures trim immense sleeves on some evening coats.
The importance of fabrics and colors are stressed throughout the collections, Severe tailored things are enlivened by color comtrasts. Luminous silks and satins make the shining sheath frocks which prevali for evening.
..
Loosely woven tweeds and print- ed chiffons that are metal-thread- ed are striking faorte notations. Finally, ruched tulles and tafettas
and nursery · for evening wraps
printed lines for beach wear are shown.
邮
New evening gowris retain a
natural purity of line in front
and practically all, interest
is
centered at the back by means of puffs, pleats and butterfly wings.
of
The windblown silhouette Schiaparelli has advanced into the Typhoon category with fish and bird silhouettes evolving.
Colorings are more exotic thar, ever. Schiaparelli features Bot- ticelli pink, a luscious pale shell tone; a pale corn yellow called Tokay a coral red and eucaly- ptus gray. Marcel Rochas shows horizon blue and an orangish red, used alone, or else combined with navy blue or black,
Women who like dresses that
are completed by Eton jackets. boleros and capelets will be de- lighted. The ensemble type of frock is much in evidence"
Cellophane and grinoline belts, scarfs and bows and rolled or futed brimmed hats that are wider in front and worn square over the eyes contribute notes of interest.
.
There is a definite trend.to. ward exquisite handwork on afternoon frocks with panels, shirring and trellis tucks pre- dominating.
Lanvin adopts flowing lines for "skirts and coats and makes sleeves wider and looser. Cock- tail dresses have longer, sweeping skirt tipped by every large leg- horn' straw hath trimmed with upstanding bows and bunches of fields flowers. The garden party type of costume is featured in this house.
Chanel favours prints with cut- out. hems and applied sequins out-lining the designs. Sold color coats over printed dresses have patterned linings and
are
In such in-between lengths as to show the whole hem of the dress. Full length coats are shown too. This house puts tiny peplums and many basque effects on daytime as well as evening thirigs,
Marcel Rochas introduces in- merise lace restaurant hats which carry out the trend toward pre- 'war styles., Floral and plaid taf- Ketas and organdy make little. jacket-blouses to wear with ankle length black and navy bine skirts for formal afternoon affairs. A short sleeved, flaring coat in pas- tel blue over black is a novel note. Ruffles and pleated frills are used as decorative, spiral motifs on bodices and skirts.
Up To The Minute
Novelties
Chromium and leather, crystal and fabric, corrugated wood and much gilt, are all'used in the most artistic and practical manner.
With the return to the cardigan sult-in tweed and cloth, slik and velvet, sporting details, or dainty trifles, must all aid in stressing the purpose of the costume worn -with the tweed sult. or country type of dressing in general-we welcome wood, leather, and the variety of metals.
A novelty belt of rolled leather, made in dog-collar form, le tas-. tened with a chormium hook- and-eye. Only the darker shades of fashion are used-black, brown, fawn, and navy. Its attractive- ness is added to by a square of leather with chromium border and initials.. Apart from the de corative monogram. at the back the owner can print name and address, like a visiting card. There is a "delightfully light wood that is being successfully, treated in corrogated form for belts and bracelets.
"When used
shades in two "Tuya" cac emphasise with great success colours. In corduroy or tweed ensembles.“
Patterned 'silks and chiffons are reappearing. and everything. points to floral, fruit, and Paisley designs, and some plaids and a: few stripes for the spring and summer... Geometrical designs. have been succeeded by bright groups of herbaceous borders and exotic flowers in clear colours.
The
of appearance
Paisley designs among the floral silks is Interesting. Bandanna patterns are the favourite Paisley designs» and are likely to be seen'in coats lined with the silk of which the dress is entirely or pártly made. There is a new taffeta on which the stripe. is woven and not printed. The striping is arrang- ed in four garded tones, and is for blouses and gypsy-looking evening gowns. There are also some new plaid taletas for blouses for dresses.
Organzas LI bold designs. should make picturesque" summer frocks One of them has a design in clear, pierrot white and pink ground. As puffs on a black usual the floral groupings on the chiffons are more boldly "spaced than on other.silks. The crepe de Chines have the most varied flower printings:
a herbaceous border with closely packed col-. curs vivid and sharp would make A delightful dress to be worn with a darker crepe coat. Others in posies and bouquets look as if. they were painted against a dis- tant background of black and white ne stripes. Almost every flower is used; Jonquils, mar- Torpedo belts and bangles, eit-
guerites, lac, and dog roses are her glt or chromium, with long
scattered on chiffons and silks. earrings to match, are another Paris favourite in
and such decorative fruits accessories.
strawberries are shown ripening much worn with the dressier " Such
from white to deep red. wool and velvet sults. brightness is lovely for the darker shades, Half-a-dozen gilt torpe- docs fasten a wide. belt of black suede.
A bangle fashion has appeared. in the collection of iridescent de- aigns for smart afternoon and evening occasions. These look like glass, but are of crystal. The colour-schemes
chaming. smoke-grey, black, brown, and with lovely deep blue, for day. iridescent light tones for night, Clips and earrings match.,
are
A charming narrow necklet of chromium links with drop pen- dant, and clip, surrounded by tiny, rhinestones, is attractive. Very long earrings to match can be, added.
A
The earrings vogue is smart- that is to say, if the earrings carry out an ultra-modern scheme. sportsman-like belt of the new walnut flexible wood, bordered and inserted with soit dark lea- ther to match the popular. baga of similar composition is a new Idea.
LADIES raglan sleeves
We bring
to your notice that.
from April 1st., we are re-decorating our Ladies' Department and have employed two expert Barbers for Ladies. Prices Very Moderate.
THE FAR EAST HAIRDRESSING SALOON.
48, Nathan Boad.
Tel. 67707. MANAGER AH LIU
Dolman tops vie with narrow on jackets and coats. Hobble skirts are preva-
·lent in this collection and the princess line prevalis for evening lhouettes, Stuffed swallows
· and lovebirds" trim the decolle- tages of evening gowns. Others have floral straps.
Belted Norfolk Jackets with: pockets and Little Eton jackets distinguish in handsome manner the tailored suits in bright blues, greens, rusta and reds. For beach wear, man tallored men pants with swinging coats are shown.
Worth launches "dance «frocks with trains which reveal frilly petticoats when dancing.' Heavy metal belts and straps are fea- tured. Evening and daytime skirta are slightly longer with pleating placed in the back.
as
There is a mixture of silk, wool, and artificial silk, called flamette, 54in. wide, in clear colours; the Hight olive green is notably good, and there are rose-coral, powder- marine, natural, nutmeg, and The cloth, grey anthracite.
which is light and yet firm. seems well suited to loose finger- tip coats. There is also a new artificial silk with a dull surface which looks well in duck's-egg blue; it is also in olive-green, fruit-red, and other good colours, and is called crepe arpette. A new Macclesfield slik, with a self faconne effect in check, will be for summer and sports frocks; it is light in weight and is in all the new shades of duck's-egg blue, light olive, belge, pink, and ivory. Again. there 15 "slub" crepe, which has a raised regular neck on a heavy crepe marocain texture and is a mixture of arti- ficial silk and wool: this British : cloth should also find many sum-. mer uses.
on
Blobs and raised effects many plaincoloured materials are likely to displace plain georgettes and crepes; where there is no pattern on a cloth there is sur- face interest.
MEN'S FLANNELS
The Prince's Lead
In Collars
Savile Row and Bond-strect- London's headquarters for men's wear have just announced that a. rarest of all things-a change in fashions,
Lounge sults are to have single- breasted Jackets, with fairly square shoulders, a moderately defined waist, and three buttons. Lapels will be wide. Either double or single breasted waistcoats are allowed,
Worsteds, saxons, and cheviots,. will be the favour
ials. Shades
*
be
mater- grey
and blue-grey.
stripes, nerring bone and broken check patterns,
SHADOW CHECKS
sports clothes will not be so loud as last year, Checks will be known as shadow checks. These are not so bold or well deaned. Sports Jackets will have wide shoulders and a defined waist,
Flannels will be in a new "shade-almost blue. Made into a suit it looks pale blue. Pin stripes will be the most fashion- able type of flannel for suits. Shirts will be fashionable in plain blue colours. Here again, if there are patterns, they will be much quieter than last year. Col- aur's will tone rather than con- trast. Stripes will predominate. Sports shirts wil still be made with large, checks, though, "..."
Collars will follow the Prince of Wales' lead-they will have a very wide tle opening, with points mea- suring from two to two and 's'half. Inches in length. Ties should be tled with a large knot,
CHANGE IN TIES
The ties themselves will under- go a radical change. Most tles will be made with vertical stripes rather than diagonal or horizon- taky tape
Flammel trousers will still sup plant plus fours for golf and sports. There seems to be no sign of a revival of plus-four popular ity. Reg
Hats will have narrower brims than ever, Lighter shades will be popular
The Hatters' Style Research As-
London Fashions
The kind of novelist to whom a .." sensible " dressing- 12 scorn gowns has too often been such a godsend will have a difficult time this year. Nearly all the most chic dressing-gowns of the mo ment are at the same time the warmest and nicst sensible,
Imagine a glowing affair in pin- stripe corduroy, manly in cut, the heart of a flame in colour, and with a clever and alender mono- gram embroidered in white on the pocket. Although his colour is so vivid and makes you feel warm fust to look at, it is not difficult to wear.
But for people who fight shy of" vivid colours first thing in the morning. there are plenty of others to
Minery Moden Apart from novel Zabric straws, here are all kinds of gay ribbone floral trials." and feather fantasies that are very colourful With the black or dark morning sult is worn an all-pink or all- turquoise hat. with a winged ornament in black or blue, or any colour that forms the con- necting link. Gally spotted or striped ribbon, may, trim a dark bat and compose necktie or waistcoat. Crowns rise straight up from the brim or recede. dented They are tucked, folded,
and stitched according to the whim of the designer. Very fine straws are used but satin figures also figures in the spring mil-
schemes. There taffeta hats - with sofb turned- back brims which sit drmly on the head." Again there are little pancake crowns which are 'fixed to a close fitting cap, so that they sit directly over the left These are made in silk and elaborately gathered.
linery choose from. equally chic and satisfying.
One is in white wool with "dark "brown chenille dots all over it. the collar and belt are of ribbed velvet, and there is an unusually attractive fastening to the belt.
Another is in blue Angora, one of those blues with a faint touch or violet, to give them interest. The rather short sleeves are very full, the bodice crosses over, so that you rethain warinly covered in all circumstances, and can wear ir as successfully with a nightle as with pyjamas, a fact which does not apply to the shorter dressing-gowns.
Some of the new earclips are very attractive in coloured or black enamel with a very narrow silver edge. You can have them in green or a bright, dark blue, and, for the evening, they "are set with paste,
For hats or handbags, or to wear on the dress itself, there are delightfuliarge clips in semi-prec...... ions stones, Most of them are in the shape of a leaf with a frog sitting on top. The most realistic one has its leaf of chrysoprase and the frog of cornelian, but some of the other colour combin- attons are even more pleasing.
Bracelets "Jewellery" of the semi-prec- ious.or metal or wooden order seems to be determined not to be overlooked this spring and sum- Both rings and bracelets tend to be enormous, and if you are a follower of the existing ha- bit of using wood wherever and whenever possible, you will enjoy the barrel-like bracelet and mat- ching ring of polished wood finished with fine "metal bands."
mer.
The most attractive evening bracelets "I have seen for somé time are made of metal, and look like bronzed iron. They are com- paratively narrow and delicately shaped. You are supposed to wear three, four, or more of them. If you do not mind clanking a bit, and they would look quite "char- ming with a black or white`dress or evening suit.
Quite a number of simple dress- es we wear for so much of the day under warm coats will take on a fresh lease of life if you give them" a new belt,
You can have these in any col- oured leather you please, very soft. in texture and with ingenious fas-- tenings, but the most exciting ones are in slipper satin, red, blue, or green, or other colours if you prefer them; some of them are fastened with one of those buckies that look like glass, but are not; others buttoning over a frog are made of the same satin.
<
GOLD TISSUE
Come Into Dress Scheme
ear.
are
Contrasts to Spring. Fashions- Leading dresa designers this spring are showing us models strikingly varied in stylë. August Abernard favours the tunic par- ticularly, Chanel clings to the young tailored suit. Lelong says My whole collection has я new sculptural cast." and he gives his gowns a forward sweep.
Patou, on the other hand, uses backward movement to create an effect of sweeping grace. On one point, however, they are all agreed-'exaggera- tion of every kind is a thing of the past. and each tendency is moderated and restrained.
The practical Bride of to-day The bride of to-day generally stands fim against the persua- alons of her relatives or dress-. maker, and insists on a wedding gown which she can wear after- wards as an evening frock. In the matter of wedding gifts, too, she knows her own mind. She
is far more pleased with some- thing she really needs for her new home or her wardrobe than with any useless present,
how- ever, costly.
Hats
The new slant,' obvious in the sallor models, is rather less acust this season-223 degress being about the angle, Rivals to straw, for summer hats are found in Petersham · ribbon. stitched- taffeta, or material in strands, stitched together and made up like straw.
Mandarin crowns and mush- room brims are among the more startling of those models which are not sailor, but "sailors" cer-. tainly predominate. Molyneux's "matter-of-fact"" salfor really carries one back to the end of the last century. The French- woman's liking for the evening hat may come into favour jud- ging by the variety of evening. dinner and cinema caps of tulle with variations of the or net, Russian headdreas in halo trim- mings.
The Monastic. Mode What might be called a mon- astic note 13 entering into modern feminine fashion.
trend Colours
towards earth brown, necklines from .a cowl effect at the back and the slee- ves ařé wide and Blowing Hems are padded and skirts sweep the ground. Another characteristic detail is the heavy girdle 'encir- tling the waist, tisually, inrich gold cord with handsome tassel- led ends.
The Black Shirt
Black is the colour which pre- dominates The Fascist' black shirt appeared at a fashion parade. Jerkin-shaped blouses Lantern sleeves and fanciful
with high necks and plain fronts neck treatments
The will be worn this spring. giving are added importance to the waist
widow's hat also appeared with line, particularly for the after-
huge black bow at the back "instead of a veil. Haloes of real, noon-evening gown, the "dual"
flowers will be worn for evening. frock which modern women find so indispensable in these days
One compose of white hycinths of rapfaly following-on social. appeared with a white evening
dress. engagements."
The idea of the separate ̈ ̈ evening belt is something quite new, and all the artistry of the... designer is being used for the creation of these decorative accessories in gold sequins and" in tiny gold beads and seed pearl patterns.
Pale golden tissue, ike a cloth of gold ha texture, but a much paler gold, is a favourite medfumi for some of the belts. The tissue is mingled in a flat plaited or"
with turquoise, twisted effent jade, or coral chiffon. These gold tissue belts are fairly wide. and are finished with a large "made" buckle in the same materials. Other types of even- ing belts are made in fat silver, gold or black sequins finished with a flat bow or just a flat- twist with abort corniced" ends. They look extremely smart when worn with a narrow Victoria capelet of sequins in the same colour, ky
Flowers are still used as a anish to the waist-line, but these new belts in platinum blonde metal tissues Jewelled with semi-precious stones or heavily embroidered, are much more original, and have that. exclusive look so much, esteemed by the well-dressed woman
sociation reports that hatlessness among men has practically disap- Deared from London,
Round the Clock Accessories The morning tailor-made of black woollen. surface may be worn with a variety of jumpers in white, blue, and pink Angora
to make or crochet.
change from the neat cambric shirt on more elaborate white blouse, An ensemble of this kind is smart throughout the day, especially 11 completed by black patent shoes, beige.or. linnet Bhadded hostery, and gloves and bag to tone in
The "same. with blouse or hat. accessories can appear with an afternoon frock and coat or eape in black taffeta car change
with black satin, places or charmeuse, with dull or bright surface.
Beauty Notes
WRINKLES UNDER THE EYES
Although I am quite young my eyes are beginning to line under- neath. I should so much like to smooth them out, if it is possible. Lines round the eyes must be treated each night with a good anti-wrinkle cream. The cream "should be smoothed on as gently as possible with the tips of the fingers, and in the morning re moved with a pad or cotton-wool dipped in an astringent which will fighten up the skin. When possible
Mavo's
HOME KÔNG
New STRAWS
SOPPE Just Received
HATS Måde to Order
In Straws, Fabrics & Ribbon
ti
In Any Styles.
Gloucester Arcade.
"Rickshaw
Brand
Ceylon
tea
Sole Distributors :-DAVIE, BOAG & Co., LTD.
Eve
On Display
on Monday
The Latest in Cocktail HATS
Also New Consignment of
Washable Evening Dresses."
No. 6, China Buildings
Pedder Street,
Opposite Hong Kong Hotel.
FAST COLOURED COTTONS
Shirtings, Poplins, Linettes, Stripes, etc
Dresses
Curtains
Sunshades
Decorations
for
Indanthren
Cushion Covers
Shirts & Pyjamas
Children's Clothing
Uniforms for Schools
Professional Clothing
Tennis Court Screens
Indanthren/I
Fast to washing, sunlight, wear and weather.
TACK 'SHING CO.,
228, Queen's Road, Hongkong. (one block before Central Theatre)
Parfumerie Rigaud
PARIS.
"UN AIR EMBAUME
Flacon de Luxe Grand Modele. A Hygienio and Refreshing Perfume in great favour on all Ovorses Marketa. ÖNTAINABLE FROM→→
A. S. WATSON & CO.,
· THE PHARMACY.
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THE COLONIAL DISPENSAKY WING.ON & 00.
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AGENTS:
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No. 54, NATHAN ROAD, KOWLOON,
TML 57155.
It is a good plan to practice look ing upwards at the tops of the": houses and trees. This forms a little exercise which helps to pre- vent eye wrinkles and to counter act the strain of constanly looking downwards. BLEACHING A SALLOW NECK
My neck is very sallow: in-con- trast with my face, which is quite good colour Is there a home treatment I could follow?
Before attempting to bleach your neck it must be scrubbed thoroughly each night with pure soap and warm water. A bath brush can be used for this pur
pose. After lathering and scrub- bing the neck, rinse It thoroughly in clear, warm water, then in cold, and finally dry well. The fol- lowing bleach can then be mass- aged into the skin: Three table-- spoonfuls of strained lemon juice, two teaspoonfuls of borax, one and a half ounces of, glycerine, eight ounces of rose-water, ⠀⠀ Dis- solve the borax in a little of "the" rose-water, mix the lemon juice with the glycerine, then add^ all the ingredients together. After applying this you can wrap a night bandage round your neck which
should be worn all night.
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