1934-02-23 — Page 3

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A SURVEY OF NEW STYLE

AND COLOURS

.Art designers have created frilly. filmy, curve revealing dresses and the present day women simply have not got the curves. They have been belting and bunting till there is little more left of the once feminine figure than a willowy skelton. The frocks are of gossamer lovely in their clinging softness. But clinging draperis that have nothing to cling to look patheti cally incongruous. It is even rumoured that the deep puf sleeve and. swathed necklines, that are so fashionable, have been introduced to hide the thin, hunched shoulders, skimpy armis, and narrow chests that banting has produced. But the very softening of the dresses only emphasises the hard angularity

of the Agure.

two-way

chiffon

Emphasizing Curves Evening sweaters in elastic, which will fit any woman have been introduced by B famous fashion expert. Made in transparent chiffons or subtle velvets. with the elastic, thread interwoven in the material, these stretchable jumpers often look exactly like a sport pull-over. although occasionally they are more elaborate. One model séen had short sleeves made like a couple of Chinese lanterns. Feminine curves are being emphasised in the new clothes. The silhouette is looser above the waist, an effect which is emphasised by the natural waistline and longer skirt. Many surprises are in store for us this season. The princess line has retumed. with a slim, narrOW skirt reaching about seven inches from the ground for day wear. its fullness is concentrated at the back near the hem. There is a new cape, looking rather like a straight jacket with the stde seams sticking out like ridges, and some coats have little shoulder yokes and extra short sleeves this for evening wear of course. Many of the smart evening wraps are trailing or dress length. and wrap closely round the figure, Waist-length Jackets and capelets are general- ly intended to be worn under an ample outer garment.

h

For The Evening

The all-satin evening ensembles... are the high lights of this sea- son's collection, specially good in black satin with pale pink bodice and lining. Satin, you

know enhances curves, and drapes to perfection, so it is liked for the silhouette which mould the figure to below the hips and then flows Into free but clinging folds, and for draped bodice. effects. "There is a controversy raging over the change in the evening skirt line. Practically every one I have seen. in the recent advance fashion sketches was apparently narrow with the fullness gather at the back. so that they seemed to have a bustle effect. The few that were different weže hobble. One in black moire had a skirt gathered in folds round the hips, and two vertical founces down the back beneath a drapery, Sweeper-hams in colours con trasting with that of the gown are a novel note in evening styles. The "sweepers," which are pleat- ed flounces placed inside the skirt, give a rustling swish to the gown as the wearer moves. One smart woman wore a gown of pansy blue crepe, with a sweeper hem of wine-red taffetas which was two inches longer than the gown. With it she wore slippers to match the sweeper. Designers are setting their faces against unmeaning fussiness. though many interesting trimmings have been introduced.

Since fashion is always logical, the new silhouette is the natural consequence of the architectural line which has prevailed this year. But as always, there is an... ulterior influence at work. There is an innovation which owes nothing to the past. This is the tailored evening gown made of material so heavy that there is no other way of using it. Finger-width scarves are a novel.. accessory in sports wear. new designs, vary from "one to two finger widths made with knitted wool or silk, and are tied closely to the throat.

The

Green is Popular Green seems designed for great popularity. especially in the lighter and faded tores. There

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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 1934. .

KEEP YOUR

FACE YOUNG

There comes a time in every woman's life when her facial mus cle go on the "loose."

"We have," they seem to say, "served you well and faithfully and now we are going to take a rest." Whereupon, if unmolested, they promptly and most literally begin to settle down."

This is the beginning of the end For as the muscles sottle so the face settles with them, "until the erstwhile look of youth is replaced by one of age.

The jaw that was once clear and firm becomes blurred, the chin that was blessedly single is united to another, and the neck that was erect, and taut crumples up and wears its necklace shrinkingly.

There are to-day "any number of things to help women in the task of keeping their muscles in grder. Rollers, patters, tightening otions, astringeuts, and applian ces which give friction are all

useful.

One of the newest types of rollers (quite inexpensive) pinches as it rolls, and literally squeezes away superfluous fesh, An excellent massage for the woman at home can be done with one of these.

Another of the latest and most effective treatments for chins for those who can afford

time and money to have it is a mask which fits round the jaw and cups the chia. This mask is connected with an electrio battery, which, when turned on,vibrates and produces a series of short, sharp jerks. These jerks cause the muscles of the chin to contract involuntarily, so that it is exercised willy-niliy with complete thoroughness.

Contour creams and jellies are useful for sharpening the jawline. and stopping any tendency which it may have towards thickening. These jellies penetrate below the surface and stimulate the circula- tion in such a way that the blood is brought rushing to the surface in a vivifying stream.

*

For a face that is looking slack and out of conceit with itself face packs are helpful. As they dry they tighten and contract, so that that which was starting to "slip" is peremptorily palied back again and put firmly in its place. The actual tightening of the pack creates a sort of internal massage which is highly beneficial,

Exercises accomplish something of the same kind, and can be done by every woman for herself, pro- viding she knows the right move- ments, and adheres faithfully to them. The following exercises are being given in some of the big salous with great success, and are excellent if done regularly:-

1. Push the chip forward as far as possible, then bend the head back until the muscles beneath the chin are tightly stretched Hold this position while count three, then relax. Re- peat half a dozen times,

you

2. Stand erect with the head up and the chin pulled in. Twist the head to, the right as far as possible, then back, facing front; repeat the same move- ment to the left. Continue this exercise, going rhythmically first to the right and then to the left, keeping the chia in all the time.

3. Push out the lower jaw in ad- vance of the upper jaw and stretch the chin forward and upward. Now hold the jaw in this position, twist the head to the right, and do half a dozen chowing movements. Repeat the same movement to the left.

06

•

The general idea that patting underneath the chin is the best way of reducing it has been sup-- planted by a new theory, which says that to pat directly beneath the chin stretches rather than contracts the skin, The patting should be directed to the muscles at the side of the jaw; by streng- thening and stimulating these the flesh is made firm and taut, and the chin consequently lifted. Try this for yourself:

Get a patter' with F flexible handle, or, if you do not want to spend money on this, use a shoe- tree instead. It makes a good substitute, Souk a piece of cotton- wool in cold water, wring out, and saturate with muscle-tightening lotion, and then tie firmly to the end of the tree.

is a new shade which looks like Chartreuse, but which is less try" ing to wear, the yellow in it giv ing it something of the wearable- ness of Patno green still a prime favourite. There is also a definite movement towards lighter browns. The popularity of yellow may be taken to indicate its ascendancy, and with yellow the Colours which look well with it will also return to favour-blues, greys and the whole range of browns and orange. Navy blue is always a perennial favourite, and may be relied upon to take the place of black as the backbone of this reason's wardrobe:

"

WHAT PARIS IS WEARING

To Read Again that French- women are wearing black may be monotonous, but, to look at, black in Paris is never monotonous. It changes with every wind thar blows.

At

16

the moment, women are wearing black dresses with no trimming but that' which comes from quilting, stitching, insets. End & complicated cut which gives a natural drapery to neck- les and sleeves. But a gay - tle scarf. bow, knot of ribbon, a diamond clip, half a dozer. bangles on the long. tight sleeves, or one or two gleaming diamond brace- lets. ft the blackness to bright-

ness.

HATS OF CHARACTER

High to the throat infront, cut low at the back, or high all round, these simple. little dresses are worn black woollen cloth, trimmed with gracefully under long coats of

furAstrakhan, broadtall, lynx, fox, ermine. The hat has so much character and style that It keeps the rest of the ensemble in sub- jection.

I have never seen sq, many hats with such character as those that are worn this season, and they are all so different,

There is the new Reboux bonnes which exacts" a Madonna-like ex- pression from the wearer. Shaped like, a Dutch bonnet, it fits the head behind and rises to two little

points on the crown; it folds fat across the top of the head, leaving the brow quite uncovered.

Such a hat, made in soft black felt, was worn by a beautiful young woman at the Cremalliere last week. Her expression was softly melancholic as she took her cock- tall, her oysters, and her blitek a la minute.

Then there is the spiky hat by Le Monnier, which has recently. been made for a well-known dan- cer. In velvet, with the "spiky frill all round the head, is be coming when lifted to one side. Another, also in velvet, has its shallow crown fitting the bead closely, and a roll of velvet round it. Set to one side and worn with. a vail, is easy to carry grace- fully on a well-dressed head,

The wearing of a vell in Paris is carried to a Anc art. To get just the right By-away look to a staff eye vell, to wear a brow vell impression that it is merely to in such a way as not to give the keep the hair tidy are little mat- ters of importance.

Suzanne Talbot's page-boy hat with a slashed brim is worn very much to one side, but not very. far back on the head.

Russian toques, more of leas Scotch bonnista, Dutch bonnets, and the Breton hat without its ribbons are all in fashion, and no two women wear them in the same way.A

The cloche never out of fa shion, but this season it has a folded crown or a crown which is indented, and a brim which

is wavy. With a morning tailor- made, the cloche looks better than' any other hat in this cold weather," The off-the-face hat shows too boldly the tip of the nose-and every nose, however frequently powdered, can look pink in an east wind.

The beret has been brought to such a level of sophistication that it is hard to dub beret many of the hats which are so called by the millinery. Schiaparelli, led them astray in this, and you now see the childern of the Schiaparelli hand knitted and crochet beret in all sorts of materials, trimmed and treated differently, but re- cognisable as of the same family.

Now that muffs are carried, glo-

GLOVES

ves are less obtrusive. Well-At- ting kid and suedy gloves, which draw on easily, are commonly worn, though dressmakers go on offering fasey volvet, and satin gloves for dress" occasions. Far-lined, guantlet gloves are worm, too, but the loose-6tting, strong kid glove, with one button or & pull-on top, is what is better for the morning tailor-made style." Knitted Angora gloves are also worn, and there are plenty of hand-made woollen gloves of dif- ferent kinds which go well with sport ensembles.

Shoes for the morning are laced and have low heels. For the af- ternoon, with a silk frock, theshoes are is dainty as may be, and have trimmings. For the evening they are frequently made to match the dress.

Stockinge may be as light as you like, but with tailormades they are more often in dark shades of beige, brown, or grey.

Handbags are rest and Hot”and fairly big. They may have strong clasps and fasteners of metal, ivory, or bone, or else bo all in leather with flat fastenings. The big envelope shape is the most popular.

Innumerable accessories are to be seen now in Paris. There are ribbon bows and scarves of velvet moire, just long enough to knot under the chin. These give bright-

negy.

So do buttons, as Lanvin and Bruyere use them big black but- tons on white plastrons, bright red buttons on blue or black. A but- ton punctuates. It can be a full stop, & comma, or a semi-colon, in a dress design or trimming,

The

The same applies to belte,, A little coloured belt... on dark or light dress, a velvet belt en cloth, a satin belt on dull crepe arrests the eye, gives pause. These little things count quite a Int in a scheme for dressing well.

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