1930-01-14 — Page 1

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Hongkong Daily Press

ESTABLISHED 1857.

No. 22,304 TRĦAA03 · B¤‡ ̄EZ HONG KONG, TUESDAY, JANUARY 14, 1930.

POMMERY et GRENO

The Jackilaw of Reims uncorking bottle of

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12.-Tea

Registered as a Newspaper at the General Post Office in the United Kingdom

式拜禮 日 建拾月登年世百九仟登英

GERMAN CLIMBERS ON KINCHINJUNGA.

"TOUCH AND GO" ON LAST STAGE.

ICE WALL AND PILLAR BARRIERS PÄSSER BUT, THE MOUNTAIN WINS:

line of march already begun, or they might have retraced their steps and availed themselves of the permis sion already granted to attack the mountain from the Nepal side, which is considered easier. As it was, the weather-fine enough for

which they had dispensed with on the ground that it was too heavy.

On October 3, after a brief rest, ther tried to set a camp still higher up the slope, but found snow so soft that they sank in it knee-deep. They returned to camp 10, and more

fall, and continued to fall for three days. Another attempt was made, but the snow fell more heavily than before. and there was a bitter wind. On October 8 they decided that the effort must be abandoned for fear lest their retreat be cut off alto- gether by the fresh snow.

The Himalayan folk tear and revere Kinchinjunga-the Old Man with the Whiskers, as its name is said to mean. To them it is a great and terrible mountain, in- habited by harsh gods and forbidden to men. And their dread seems to be infectious. for though many ex-all but the climber, who mustsnew almost immediately began to peditions have wandered through the Himalayas and climbed its tre mendous walls to serious assault had been made on Kinchinjunga's topmost peak until in August Inst year Herr Paul Bauer led his party of young Germans from Munich to study, explore, and stand-it the gods would be kind-where no man's foot had ever rested before. The goda were not kind and the victory was theirs.

11

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have firm snow-had delayed them already and was to cheat them even mere unkindly when they had ad- vanced their base camp on August 23 to the western end of the Zemu Glacier. Here they were seventeen or eighteen thousand feet up, near a short high spur on the eastern buttress of the highest peak of Kin-was, the temperature every evening GRAND HOTEL DES WAGONE,

sank to 30 degrees of front.

As it

chinjungs. They decided to make their attack up this spur, and ac

Frost-Bitten and Snow-Blind. " cordingly set up a camp "just below The party of nine arrived at Dar. its razor-edged arête after some days

The party had to be split up for of arduous work to facilitate their the descent, and one group was jeeling on June 29, and on the 31st

communications with the world be caught by a small avalanche in its first echelon-Dr. Beigel, Dr.

which packs and kit were lost. The Allwein, Herr Brenner, Herr Thee.hind and below them.

men were isolated from their com- hes, Herr Aufschneiter, and Herr

panions, had to spend a night at van Kraus-were on their way, vid

20,000 feet without tents, blankets. Kalimpong, Kangtok, Lachen, and the River Zemu Chu to the Zem

or sleeping bags, and were rather Glacier, where they made their base

badly froast-bitter. Another mem- ber of the party was snow-blind camp on August 15. They were followed by the remaining three of

in one eye for several days. the party-Herr Bauer, Herr Fendt,

descent was the more difficult as and Herr Leupold, who were aided

steps had to be recut in the icc in transport organisation by Lieut.ed to avoid the danger of avalan-slope, and the snow was soft and ches. Another start was made, and very deep. Camp six, when they after four days toil they reached reached it, was in six feet of snow, the summit of the arête, 20,000ft. but the cook was ready for them Then followed eight strenuous days went on to the base camp and by high, and pitched Camp 9 there. 1 with provisions. From there they of step-cutting up the ice-walls easy stages to Darjeeling.

Colonel Tabin, a well-known Dar- jeeling mountaineer. They had with them 30 porters who had been to great heights with the Everest expeditions, and had promise of help from Mr. Shebbeare, an Ever- ext climber.

Hazardous Reconnaissances.

As soon as the base camp was established (writes the Calcutta correspondent of the Manchester Guardian) Herr Bars party began the long and tedious task of resonnoitring approaches for the at- tack on Kinchinjunga's summit. At first one group of three men made an attempt on the peak of Simvu, 22,380 feet high, while another three moved to the extreme limit of the Zemu Olacier. The one party reached a height of 10,000 feet, passing up to and above the Simvu Saddle; the other reached a point immediately beneath high saddle in the north spur of Kinchinjunga itself. Both were balked by fresh snow and avalanches, which made immediate further progress in those directions too difficult and hazard ous, and they had to return to the hase camp without the clues that they had sought-

This was at the beginning of the | fourth_week_of August, and time was short. Had they been able to postpone the main advance for a few weeks they might either have fol, lowed up in favourable weather the

Eight Days of Step-Cutting. They had almost won through to the top of the arête when a violent 50w-storm on September & and the two next days ruined all the work already done. Camp 7 was cut off from the advanced base camp for some days, and it had to be retreat

The

which now confronted them.

The great effort had failed by a The way led up first by a series little and had achieved much. The of ice pitches and cornices, then by German's had overcome tremendous fourteen, ico-pillers. ("gendarmes") difficulties; they had climbed to, p of heights ranging up to 200ft. It height of 24,450 fect, the greatest was impossible to work round these ever yet reached in the Sikkim pillars and so up by steady stages; Himalayas; they had been robbed each had to be surmounted with the of their goal only by the unpredict aid of ropes and ice axes. There able caprices of weather both in the was very little wind to trouble them, early and in the last stages of their but the sun left them very early endeavour. Herr Bauer thinks that and the cold became intense. The Kinchinjunga's Buramit ice, too, was more difficult than any reached. and he hopes to be one of to which they had been accustomed those who will do it; but he has in Europe, and they had to cut com- no delusion either about the dil plete staircases for the laden native | ficulty of the task or about the wea-i parters-of whom, by the way, they ther gods' temperament. had the highest opinion. They bivouacked by night on narrow ice ledges between the gendarmes."'

The Last Ridge.

Explorers' Reticence.

can be

The nature and extent of the scientific and other discoveries made on the expedition-which, of course, On September 30 the climbers its members consider to be of first! six of the Germans and four porters importance-are as yet unknown, 48 passed the last of the ice-pillars, the climbers would not anticipate: and pitched camp 10 at 3,400 feet. the book 'which they intend to pub- The severest of the technical difficullish concerning their experiences. ties had been overcome, the summit In India and among explorere and

was in full view, and there seemed mountaineers at home this work will¦ to be nothing worse ahead than an be awaited with keen interest, for easy snow slope running up to the the adventure was conceived and last ridge which looked to offer no prepared with all the GermaNA' serious obstacles. They found, too, famous thoroughness no less than it that they were not severely handi- | was persisted in with all the modern capped by lack of oxygen apparatus, climber's courage of body and mind.

Diary of Coming Events.

To-day, (January 14.)

H.K. Football Association, Coun- cil Meeting, 5.30 p.m.

Queen's Theatre:" "Pleasure

Crized.".

World Theatre: "Don Q." Star Theatre: "Veiled Woman." Majestic Theatre: "Cabaret Nights."

Tea Bences: Hong Kong and Peninsula Hotels, p.m.

Dinner Dancer: Hong Kong, Peninsula and Repulse Bay Hotels, 8.30 p.

Tides:-High, 19.03.a.m. and 8.25 p.m.; Low, 8.24 a.m. and 1.48 p.m. European Mails:-Outward : Europe ri Marseilles (Angers);

2.30 p.m.

Wednesday. (January 16.) Sandakan Light and Power Co. Extraordinary general meeting. St. George's Building, 1230 p.m.

Entries close for Open Chess Championship.

Fanling Hunt and Race Club Hounds Meet, Sheung Shui, Cross Roads, 2.45 p.m.

Hockey Club vi K.O.G.B., U.S.R.C. ground, 5' p.m.

H.K. Rife League Meeting, Volunteer Headquarters, 5.30 p.m. Football: Senior Division: R Navy, K.0.8.3. Junior Divi sion R. Navy v. RA.

Queen's Theatre: "Pleasure

Majestic Theatre: "Cabaret Nights."

and Peninsula Hotel, & p.m.

Tea Dances: Hong Kong: Hotel,

Dinner Dances: Hong Kong and Peninsula Hotels, 8.30 p.m.

Tides: High, 10.59 a.m. and 0.17 p.m.; Low, 4.07 m. and 2.37 p.m. "European Mails :-Outward; Europe via Vancouver, B.C., and rid Siharia (Empress of Canada),

10 A.M.

Thursday: (January 16.)

St. Stephen's Girls' College, Speech Day, 3 p.m.

2.

Polo Tournament, K.O.S.B. Odd Lots, Civilians v. Readquar- ters.

US.R.C. Annual Tennis Tourna- ment, 3rd round.

HK. Automobile Association, Dinner Dance, Peninsula Hotel.

Taikoo Ball, Taikoo Club Hall. Italian Opera Co.:"Rigoletto," Star Theatre, 0.15 p.m.

Queen's Theatre: The Pagan." World Theatre: "Fazil." Star Theatre: "The Heart, of a Nation" (matinces only).

Majestic Theatre: "Speedy." Tea Dances: Hong Kong Hotel, Peninsula Hotel, 3 p.m.

Dinner Dances: Hong Kong and Peninsula Hotels, 8.30 p.m.

H.K. Football Beferees Associa tion, Emergency Meeting, French Bank Building, 5.30 p.m.

European Maila Outward: Y.M.C.A. Kowloon, debate "Has Europe vid Siberia (Kaga Maru), the Labour Party justified, its re- 9.30a.m.; Europe "vid Siberia (Kamala), 6 p.m. Inward: Europe turn to power1" p.m.

Italian Opera Co. "La Boheme,"rid Suez (Kamala). Star Theatre, 8.15 p.m.

Queen's Theatre: The Pagao." World Theatre: "Revenge." Star Theatre: "The Heart of a Nation" (matinees only).

Majestic Theatre: Speedy." Ten Dances: Hong Kong and Peninsula Hotels, 5 p.m.

Dinner Dances: H.K. Hotel, Repulse Bay Hotel, and Peninsula Hotel, 8.30 p.m.

Friday: - (January 17.)

Saturday,

(January 18.) U.S.R.C. Annual Tennis Tour- nament.

1.R.C.r. Kowloon C.C.; Royal League Cricket:-Division I.: Navy. Craigengower, Civil Ser- vice C.O. v. The Army. Division II.: H.K.C.C. 9. R. E. and Signals, Kowloon C.C.. Boerzio, Cräigen- gower v. Police.

Friendly Cricket:-Division I.: University . H.K.C.C.

Christian Fellowship Meoting, Italian Opera Co.: "Madame Here May tableware Chester 18, World Theatro: "Revenge:27. Auction of Valuable Curios, Queen's Theatre: The Pagan."

"Veiled Woman "Lammert Bros, 230 p.m.

World Theatre: "Fazil." Star Theatre:

Criica

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