1926-04-14 — Page 8

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61

PARIS FASHION · NOTES. POPULARITY OF THE JUMPER.

[FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, ISABEL. KAMBAT.)

PARIS, March 8th..

FASHION RULES AT PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

COLLARS, WAISTCOATS, AND TURN-UP" TROUSERS.

PACK DRILL PENALTY,

Harrow, boys are discussing-bat. not disobeying this latest order of the “** Big Five of the society, of "Bloods," which requires that in, future coat-collars must not he turned up axcept when it is rain- ing or when scarves are worn.

LOCAL SPORT.

TO-DAY'S FOOTBALL. HONGKONG LEAGUE.

*** NOPRIATI,`-

Hongkong Club Kowloon, Club ground," kick-off at 5.15 plm. Re- feree: Mr. Atkinson.. South China v. Club de Recreio, Soo-

kunpoo "A" ground, kick-off it, 5-13, p.m. Referee: Mfr. Perman.

HOCKEY.

The following will represent the Clas Wanderers against. "C" Co. East Surrey Regiment at the ES.R.C., at 5.30 p.m. sharp on Friday, April 18th- Gerrard, AS. Hett, F. J... Mitchell,

F. N. Nicholls J. Wedlake, W.

(Capt.), L. P. Ralph, M. D. Gurney Hoare, B. R. Forster, E. D. Lawrence, E. J. Larkcom and G. P. Laminert

The jumper is enjoying a reign of popularity just now such as it has not known since first designers thought of doing away with the age-long tack-in blouse and substituting a sailor jumper in its place. At first, of course, it was only seen on tennis courts and "sports fields

The "big five," as the committee of generally, and even then only worn by the Philathletic Club are known, are the the very younger sot. Then, it was fen-Head Boy. Mr. N. M. Ford, son of Mr. tured in crape de Chine in simple day Lionel Ford, the last headmaster of Har. frocks, then in more elaborate ones, row, the captain of football, the captain until now, its final triumph is its appear of cricket, and 'two other members. ance Ka part of evening gowns. This

PANCY WAISTCOATS. winter, Yvonne Davidson made use of the

Membership of the Philathletic Club is jumper as one of the most original much sought after, as it carries with it tures of her collection. Accompanying the right to the proud Harrow title of plain velvet skirts she made jumpers of blood." Incidentally it also permits beautiful Persian lame, buttoning down members to wear fancy waistcoats on Sun. the front sad finishing with long, tight day and to walk in the middle of the road fitting sleeves. Jenny, too, used the instead of having to keep to the pave 1.45 p.a. sherp:---

jumpër a lot in her aveaing models.ment, like the smaller fry of the school.

There were numbers of beaded frocks in her winter collection, showing a plain, or almost plain "skirt, and a jumper top covered with intricate designs worked out in a variety of beads, spangles and the like. One of her most successful Frocks, I remember, was a happy com- bination of black velvet, vieux rose, and black Chantilly lace. The skirt was simple affair of Chantilly lace, gathered to give it sufficient fullness: the bodies was a long jumper of black velvet, finish ed off with cuffs of rieax rose velvet,

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The exact reason for the new order is not quite clear, unless it be that jealous for the ancient dress traditions of the school the committee felt that the turn- ing up of coat collars by boys is not quite in keeping with the dignity of Harrow,

Disciplinary action will be taken by the club against any boy who in future in- fringes this order, but, now that it has the weight and authority of the "bloods" behind it, it is not likely that anyone will disobey..

1:

ORIOKET.

(1

The following will represent the Volun teers against Mr. A. A. Rumjahn's XI. nt- the University ground on Saturday at 213 Bus leaves H.K.C.C. Pavilion at

p.m.

E. J. R. Mitchell feapt.), H. "Owen Hughes, W. W. L Ramsey, E. C. Fincher, S. Jes. G. R. Vallack, H. C. Burgess, ani J. C. Lyal, C. D. Wales. H. E. Standage. F. E. Lawrence.

MR. FENDER, ON CRICKET.

THE COMING TEST GAMES.

Mr. P. G. H. Fender spoke on Cricket" to an assembly of the West. minater (Abbey Division) Branch of the Junior Imperial and Constitutional League at Caxton Hall, Westminster, and long vieux rose velvet streamers. The Bursar of Rugby School told the last month. He remarked that he bad caught onto the shoulders and looped benbaus overcoat collars. The boys, that the Australian side of 1921 did not Evening Standard that there was no rule heard it said by straightforward critics

hind at the waist level.

י

The new jumper that has been prepar

RUGLY'S. RULE

fern them up or down, as they like," he jacket collars. explained, but it is different with

collar of his jacket until he has been at No hoy is permitted to turn up the the school four terms. Why four teema the boys did not turn up their trousers, I do not know. There was a time when but they may do so now."

play the game. It is not so," said Mr. Fender. They may do things on occa

not cricket, but one must do them the sion which, from our point of view, are justice to believe that they did not do these things for the sake of being 'dirty' but because they were in the game to them." Where any collection of people,

ed for the season ahead and that has already made its appearance in any quan tity down on the Riviera, is inclined to be straighter than any of its predecesors, Also, it is made of such soft materials that it can follow the lines of the figure.

At Westminster School there is a without necessarily being curved itto curious regulation concerning the collare them by the cutter. They vary in length / of:" shags,” as the school blazer is known rent someone in the middle of the field

to the boys.

...

TO SOFT COLLARA.

definíté rule.

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CONSUMPTION HAS

BEEN CURED.

or one person, even, attempted to pre- A REMEDY FOR CONSUMPTION

"I want those people who see the

HAS BEEN FOUND.

Marvellous as it may som`after condaries

the

game as it is going to be played over cared by this of of hundreds of

the advanced stages of the disenas. No one of failure, a remedy has been discovered that bas cared the deadly Consumption even in will longer doubt that Caninmption can be cured after reading

discovery some after chanse of climate and ali other been pronounced hopeless sell ffective and remedios tried had failed, and the cases had

speedy in caring Catarrh, Bronchitis, Asthma, remasdy bas also proved itself

n

from just below the" normal waistline to

King's scholars only are allowed to playing the game to the best of his ability just above the knees; a happy medium wear the collar band. The ordinary boy by means of obstruction, or barracking, is the length that reaches just to thement for disobeying this order is some or that man did not play the game, must wear it turned-up. The punish or any other type of nuisance, these men hips. For daytime wear, jumpers are thing akin to Army pack drill," the (Hear, hear.) made of kasha or one of the innumerable boy being compelled to walk round and derivatives of kasha that Rodier has in-round the square of his school for vary.

ing periods. vented of late, of light serge or of crêpe This order is very rigorously en- de Chine. For evening, wear, the shape today.I have often been compelled he added. "It is going to be, I think,

forced,"

here this summer to bear this in mind, said an old Westminster boy remains the same, but the material to undergo the drill punishment for the kernest example of rivalry in cricket changes to beaded or plain crêpe Geor. disobeying it."

that this generation may see, and I want and other serious throat and lung t gette, to lace or to a shining lamé or Inmé brocade. To recompense for the

At St. Paul's School there is no do, I think they are going to soc, certain themselves, a company has been formed to them when they see, as I think they may In order that all in need of this wonderful produce of science may test ita efficacy for. extreme simplicity of the jumper shape, boys to wear soft collars," said one of and therefore if done by them are not to

We do not allow the things which are in the Australian game, give it to the world, and a Free Trial Treat a hundred and one changes are rang in the school officials, and they must wear their detriment, but which are not in Yonkerman ment can be

obtained by rid 118/1, the Derk P. by means of a lever harmonising of dark clothes, but as it is a day school our game. I want them to realise that First Street, London, EC. 4, cuclosing 6d. materials and colours. Thus, a plain they are fairly free to do as they like we are up against a lot of things which British, Postal Order to cover cost of carriage we do not do, but which other people do and packing, and mentioning this paper. The jumper will be worn with a striped skirt,

do, and that they are not to blame for trial wreatment will then be sent by return or vice versa, a jumper of crêpe de

doing it. I have heard it said that cer- mail, carriage paid. Chine will be trimmed with bands of supple materials lend themselves so much other things like that. There is no Aus tain people bowl at other people and do kasha similar to that of which the skirt better to the long, curving lines or the tralian bowler who ever deliberately set is made, or again, the skirt will be in billowing fares of the moment, and then, out to knock out one of our batamen or crêpe de Chine and the jumper in kasha hand is so apt to have a faint air of play the game dirty from any point of taffeta, unless it is treated by a master injure him in any way. They do not trimmed with bands of crêpe de Chine being old-fashioned about it. Only view. It is merely that their point of Figured crepe de Chine is allied to a Jeanne Lanvin can really make a success. view is different from ours,"

of taflets with her bouffant, Louis XVL plain crêpe de Chine chosen in the period dresses, ao, it is not to be won- dominating colour of the design, and, if dered at if the rest of womenkind is a particularly smart ensemble effect is still holding aloof from it despite the efforts of the designers to bring it back Bought, a cape of plain material to match into favour. the skirt is added, and lined with a THE BOLERO. printed one to match the jumper. CAPES AT THE BIVIERA."

outside.

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BISQUES AT GOLF.

MISS LEITCH ASKS A GOLF QUESTION.

There was such a thing, he proceeded," as "talent" or "mark money for the professionals who did well on any parti cular occasion, but there was justification for! mark money for the man who One detail which we are in the habit made "a" at the right moment as much of looking upon as old-fashioned, and as for the one who got 50. He illustrat

story of the game against

Will the "bisque" replaco the Which minds me that capes are again which is becoming tremendously popular Sussex in 1920 at the Oval. With 450 for stroke" as a form of handicap at golf

on the Riviera, and this means that it five wickets at tea time he was faced with The bisque in a stroke which may be very popular along the Riviers this year will be popular in Paris the following the choice of piling up a record innings taken by the receiver at the conclusion. The model, one sees most of is of the season, is the bolers. It is even figuring score and having to see Sussex scoring of any hole while the "stroke" must bo type the French call the pelerine, that in many of the evening frocks, so that freely next day or concluding the used in accordance with the table arrang

it has its economical side to recommend is a cape reaching to the hips allied to it as well. For many afternoon frocks anings for they could not declare oned by the Committee of the Club.

the first day. He told Strüddy" and In the United States of America the a fitted coat that reaches to the fashion are now fitted with boleras with long. Bill Hitch to take their o's as quickly as bisque has been proved the better form transparent chiffon sleeves; when dinner possible, and he himself did likewise, so of handicap, and many golfers in this able short length of the day. Some of and dancetime come round, the bolero is that the Press were able to take of the country, much prefer to concede, or re- these pelerines, are fitted with sleeves removed, and, beheld, you have a charm final collapse of Surrey, and they finally ceive as the case may be, bisques rather and a short cavalier type of cape thasing evening frock underneath. does no more than serve as an ornament;

had a comfortable win. There were than, strokes. times when self-sacrifice was an enormous

AFTERNOON. WEAR

קי

others are fitted with a large enveloping EVENING PROCES......

There is absolutely no doubt that the cape that does duty for sleeves as well. There is not much novelty to chronicle advantage. The professionals on that oc- result of the Annual Match between the Among the novelties I have seen are in the evening frocks, for, it would seem casion got their mark money as well as Ladies and Amateurs at Stoke Poges white leather coat, the creation of as though designers had discovered all if they had made 50's

would be more satisfactory were a pro- Chanel, and a white taffeta coat, the that it is possible to discover in the way Mr. Fender then answered a "number portion of bisques, to be conceded ́instead. result of Lucien Lelong's clever imagina of materials and colour harmonies to of questions on cricket principice and of the usual half stroke.. tion. The latter takes more the form deek the most exacting of their fair methods. Without declaring more for Six bisques instead of nine, strokes of a jacket, is severely plain in cut and clients. Lame continues to be the fabric fast or slow bowling, he declared that would probably mean success for the is trimmed merely with rows of buttons; chosen for evening gowns of the gorgeous, the bowler who kept a good length x Ladies whose efforts in this event have worn with a bright coloured frock, or type; beaded georgette or crêpe de Chine always a great asset to his side, giving led cynics to one of the figured crèpe de Chines I have for less. ceremonies occasions and figured it a chance to hold the initiative and Debacle "ler to it as" The Annual already referred to, it is extraordinarily chiffons for the casino and dance room command the situation. Though the pre-It is only necessary to look at the re effective...

And I had nearly forgotten lace. This tent method of county championship was suite of a Knock-Out Tournament to still remains the material preferred above not ideal, for properly every team should realise that three-quarters of the differ- all others for the simple, or even for the play every tuin, yet the vast majority ence in handicap is an inadequats allow. For afternoon wear, nothing is so elaborate dinner frock. It is never were satisfied with it, and the champion ance ól strokes effective as the frocks that are made of fashioned with much detail, but relies for ship was not the be-all and end-all. The It is bad management on the part of one or other of the figured materials. effect on the addition of a band or two best side all round was, in his view, the receiver if every bisque is not of In crêpe de Chine, Georgette or mousse of silver or gold ribbon, a knot of Yorkshire, and no one would grouse at nse, but with a stroke allowance it is line soie, nothing lends itself to the flowers placed at the waist or on the their being on top. The eight-ball over, more a matter of lurk, and the conceder fashions of the moment quite so well shoulder, and a cascade of ribbons of though the Australians were used to it, can generally rest assured that only about as these. Very often, a combination of different harmonising tones. Black lace was one of the heaviest handicaps of the alty per cent will affect the match. two materials is tried out with pleasing is the most favoured, although one sees visiting side, and even the Australians results. Black too, is often combined the daintiest of frocks fashioned of themselves were in the habit of bowling with a note of colour to liven it up, blonde or beige silk Chantilly that are two “dollice" an over to save them. Black chiffon or Georgette will look capable of lending charm to the plainest selves. He had no general laws for iœcep- smart if motifs and bands of taffeta in of women. As there is a vogue for skirta ing fit, he told one inquirer, but only opened his spring tour at the Golders some bright colour are added. There is slightest gathered just now lace frocks one rule moderation. As to the Green Hippodrome with his now play, by the way, an effort being made to relend themselves admirably to this treat England team, they could rely on it that The Chinese Bungalow," which may vive taffeta, and effort which, so far, meat just as becomingly as do the crêpe the Selection Committee would leave no eventually come to the West End. The has not had much success, The new Georgette, crêpe de China and printed stone unturned to place the best team in play follows closely the Mr. Wa keadi

(Continued on next column.)

chiffon ones.

the field.

Mr. Matheson Lang on March 18th

tion...