1925-04-01 — Page 8

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THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18T, 1925

NOW READY.

o I'

THE

DIRECTORY AND CHRONICLE

CHINA, JAPAN, BRITISH MALAYA, INDO-CHINA, SIAM, PHILIPPINES NETHERLANDS' INDIA, TO.

SIXTY-THIRD

NE

1925

YEAR OF PUBLICATION.

IS NOW BEING ISSUED AND COTTAIZES.

ALFRAENTICAL LIST OF FOLKTUN BUSINESSES, TEKIN PERSONNEL AND AGENCEM. ULAKRIFTED BUSINESS DIRECTORY OF THE GRIEF TRADE CENTERS ALPHABETICAL LIST OF RESSION HEROKUTS DE THE FAR BA/ GOVERNMENT AND OFFICIAL DEPARTMENTA,

1

UP-TO-DATE COLOURED MAPS OF THE PRINCIPAL FORM IN FAH JAK RUPE, DMORIPTIVE AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNTS OF THE VARIOUS COUNTRIM, AND

TRADE-CENZIES OF THE FAR KAST.

نوم

TRRAWES, TAKITTS, STAMP DUTIES, BROKERAGE GELEGES, POSTAL QUIDÉ, MYG. EESTIER, AMERICAN AND JAPANESE XATION AND CHANTING VESKITA.

1,505 PATSU

1,800 PIER

Complete Edftlen Abridged Edition

-813-local-suKEGUGY.

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'

AN EXTREMELY USEFUL" BOOK.

་

Writing from Singapore, under date March Slaty 1923. Bir Godfray. Thomas, Private Secretary to HR.H. THE PRISON OF WALBA, sayı:— « 8-1 beg to acknowledge, the receipt of your letter of the 23rd instant and am desired by the Prince of Wales to thank you for the opy of the 60th annual edition of "TE DISKOTORY & CHRONICLE Fox OMIKA, JAPAN, THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS, HIG, ST.," which His Royal Highina has been plessed to accept, and which will be extremely useful during the remainder of the tear.

The Managing Director,

HONGKONG DAILY PRÁN, IND.

HOTGKONG.

Yours faithfully,

Godfant ThomAS,

(Pivate Bacrotky)

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PARIS FASHION NOTES. [TROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, 15ABEL RAMSAY.]

Thess

PARIS, February 22nd.

for the great drens-designing houses of Paris, month when for February is the the models fat

the coming Spring

• howa to the overseas season are not

In another month or the buyera."

80% mpte general public will be allowed to glimpse these marvels, but for the moment only buyers for overseas arms, the

but disastroda to more bulky figures.A belt in front with embroidery following the same line at the back, and large sashes tying in front or at the side were also among the lesser features 'I noticed. RED ON TER RIVIERA

Among the materials Doeuilletin work- ing in for his syoning gowns are georgette cire, fascinating material that was... augched recently and has quickly be come, the rage since, plain and printed chiffons' and mousselines de solo; with metal lames and lamé brocades for the more stately types of gown. Unlike grany

Paris, Doeuillet.

of the other bar of black even-

commission agents and the ad is showing gumi50-#- fashion experts of newspapers with world-ing and dinner

day and write criticisms of the

a

obtainat deal on

in his colles

collection. for on the whole, this is going to be a

shades

lilac Troia purple

bolding

-out

with the All

those which will blossom Arrival of the Spring sunshine. shades of pink, from a pastel tint to deep cyclamen will be seen, too, and that new shade which is geither cyclamen nor magenta but something between the two will be one of the colours dressmakers and milliners, will work with untiringly. SEESTAL PATTERNS.

noticeable

the

As with Leniet so with Donnillet in the matter of Chinese innence. This wis

particularly in more designs and, colourings used for the trimming of coats and dresses, rather than in the actual cut as with Lenief. Brilliant reda, blues and greaps with

to throw these into relief are the feature just a tracing of silver or gold thread colourings of most of the embroideries Doet mod

and

famous names who attend the els colourful with beans on red shown just as the dramatic critics deal i mauve toning ** Just now down on with Brst night performances, only these predominati8uted sway privileged ones are allowed within the s "but the colours I speak of are Sanctuary of these temples of fashion. CIRUPLAR MOVEMENT POPULAR,

One of the very first to show was Yteb, a name which shields the personality of the Baroness Wrangel. Many of the mo- dels in this collection show a circular movement; and a tendency, to allow for a more ample line, this being achieved in most cases by a clever use of pleats. Anuther feature is the bloused over waist. aling that resembles nothing so much as the sailor blouse of our school days It adds a new and charming fine to the gamut on which designers may try their talent, and is particularly becoming to For evening

ber slender, girlish

Iteb

these with vapourous es res. plain so printed chiffons, mousselines ds sole, crêpe Romain and the like. The to at times of these is charm siry | by means of designs in hay the

crystal beads. As to the question of skirs which is such an absorbing one days, Yteb has decided for very shor and not quite so short lengths, according to the type of gown and the build of

The evening wraps were mors inclined the wearer.

They were be capes than coats. As a general principal, her to fluffy dresses in which there is a maximum fashioned mostly of rich lamé and of material and a general effect of billow brocade fabrics and many of them were Ола particular- ing, are longer than the straight, simple profusely embroidered. lined dresses of the more classic type. ly original model was made of black

taffetas embroidered with crystal beads. USUALLY QUITE TIGHT.

and finished with big cuffs of efmine. Redfern's collection is notable for the Lucile, as ever,

the exponent of you variety and cut of the tailor-mades and ful fashions in,, her" collection. or ra tailored coats shown. Many of these I should say: she concentrates her im- arc made of English fancy weaves;

agination on designing clothes that will the length is fairly considerable, they

preserve a youthful appearance for the Follow avere"

She is

is using printed chiffons deal, heavy lamé fabrics for her evening kasha and light gowns a gowns weeds for her sports

and wraps

is trimming his more elaborate ith, and the designs showed for -part intricate oriental patterns,, at blooms that never-were-seen" this side of the occident. YOUTHFUL, JASHIONS.

less severe and fine: if they débutante and, create one for har

are of the short arc of

type, they are quite tight about the hips. The dress worn underneath, in the case of long coats, or the skirt, in the case of the short jacket, are decidedly short. Among the colours Redfern morning suits. working in this season for his coats and and coats and skirts are beige, nasturtium.. chocolate, rust and Rodier-red, the last which the weaver wizard, Rodier recently launched.

and

д

and

There is also a great enchant towards heavy embroideries at "Lucile'z One of her models, the most td by this great. designed admired, was artist for Gloria Swanson

It is a coat in black velvet and e- broidered

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'NOTIFS FOR MATRONS.

For simple dresses Bedfern is using kasba and crêpe a great deal. For effect in these, he relies almost entirely on pleats, but pleats carried out in sich an exquiste, intricacy of ways that the results are as varied as ang later em- either broidery design. The fall

loose,

caught in at the wrist or

is the principal feature of Among the

the evening

is

Alle fashioned collect els

jeune

of a mixture of taffetas and printed mousseline de soie. For the young or elderly matron, there are more stately dresses. in lame and jame brocade, trimmed with a variety of mediums, the most striking of which are ostrich plumes, diamenté and large motifs embroidered in brilliant silks and crystal beads, sequins and paste.

CHINESE INFLUENCE,

PRY

Lenief's collection was shown in the evening amid all the bustle and brilliance that invariably attend the first par formance of a play by a celebrated author. One of the chief points I noticed about the models shown was the marked Chin- ese influence. Not only was this so in the matter of cut, also in that of the abundance of embroidery more or Tess Chinese in design and colouring which was used. Another Chinese touch was the collarless coat finished simply with

Mandaria a band like the neck, of He is making many of these short. coate and skirts in crêpe de Chine as a con- cession to the weather-when it finally decides to turn a little warmer. Many of his evening couts, too, have wide sleeves like those of Mandarin coats and are carried out in Chinese brocades in sub- dued and subtle colourings. REVEALING THE UNDERSKIRT.

Coats

An

For his evening gowns, Leniet is using white a great deal, also cyclamen, purple and violine anades. An idea he is mink-

of ing use a lot of is that revealing underskirt of silver or gold tigue under Most of his evening an evening dress.

"or heavy

metal brocader wraps are made and the most distinctive feature about them is that they are no fur trimmed this, in age when it is almost im possible to find any garment in the whole feminine wardrobe that is not trimmed with fur!

TROUSERED KAŞKA ENSEMBLES.

For sports wear, Lenief, like all other designers, favours kasha. For ordinary wear, his costumes show short skirts and

I Jumpers with quite short sleeves. noticed several trousered ensembles for Alpine sports wear also several smsth Fiding suits complete with neat breeches that.diered from most suits in that the Breeches showed two or three inches be- low the three-quarter cost that was worn with them

BALLORS IN THE ENSEMBLES, 700.

At Doepillet & the full-front skirt with the perfectly Bat, back seemed to pre dominaté above all other lihes. Other little distinguishing details I noticed were the frequent use of scallops in some of the three-piece ensemble slcoves that. varied from a comfortable out

ful fullocas but were aeldom tight, bind is of contrasting shade on coats, arrow lace insertion effectively used in many

of the lighter types of frock. A quaint note was afforded by the wander ing waist line. This was usually to-b found in the same place in front but was often either wandering or want ing altogether at the back. Ar original idea and one easy of being carried off by the alim-waisted maider, (Continued on next Column),

with an exquisite Persian design The be aqualled in diseases arising from impars blood. It searches out and expels from the

long V. front opening and the sleevetal carrant every lurking beses of poisonous matter, spring blood and skin dissames,

ends are. outlined with a band of Rable and the only ornament is a handsome enamel clasp in front from which droop long silken cords and tassels. Another race coat effect is produced with black velvet embroidered in gold, and also anished with bands lar and cuffs, and the hem of the skirt.

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