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THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, JULY 18TH, 1924

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THE ENGLISH TEA TRADE

IN HISTORY.

tion in Fleet Prison. The most English of English writers, Dickens, has frequently depicted many of his famous characters Writing in tim Tea and Coffer Trade

in the act of partaking of the invigorat Journal," Mr. G. A. Paternoster-Browning famous beverage; in fact, most of the of London, says --

Victorian novelists, male and female, were always ready to introduce tea into their scenes of English home life, and a bibliö- graphy of the subject would fill- many

pages.

The story of the introduction of tea drinking into England and the inaugura tion of w great British industry la the receipt of a five-pound packet of ta dur

While on this theme, it would be slight- Ling the Restoration is so coloured with j

renince that a short survey from that one of the most amusing characters aspect, may be readily forgiven beforeosJohn Jorrocks, the cackney sports- in the fiction of this pericul not to wet- dealing with the more material farts of man and tea grucer, created by Robert the subject.

Smith Surtees. Jofrocks was so passion- Cunning the history of tea to its 8580- ciation, with England saves an endless and ately fond of hunting, and also so keen somewhat barren discussion as to whether ou his business, that he always carried tea was first introduced from India into samples of his tean with him into the China in A.D., or that the herti was customers among the followers of the hunting field, and 'endeavoured to obtain discovered much earlier to be indigenous hunt. by this Chinese Emperor Chi Suig in 278 B.C."

INCREASE OF TA DRINKING.

In 1389, the welelirated writer Giovanni With the increase of tea drinking in Batero published in Italy a work entitled | England, gigantic efforts were made by **On the Causes of the Magnificence and † British tea traders to capture the market Greatness of Cities in which here. for British (indiau) grown teas. In 1967 marks, The Chinese have an herb from India ten formed duly about 5 per cent. which they press a delicate juice, which of the total quantity consuñied; 20 years serves them for drink instead of wine; later more than half the tea consumed it also preserves them from all those evils

came from India and Ceylon. By 1900 which the uniderate use of wine pro- British-grown teas had secured practically duce's anong us.

This can refer to none the whole market, and the consumption other than tea; and thus Botero is the of tea in England has steadily increased first European writer who mentions this from this date. refreshing beverage,

«Samuel Pepys has recorded in his Diary, ** did send for a cup of tea da China drink) of which I never had drink fore,

and again."by, coach bone, and there found by wife making of tea a drink which Mr. Pelling. the potticury, tells her is good for her cold and defu tions," which proves the novelty of the drink in the time of Charles II. Certain ly his enusort, Cathrine of. Braganza, was the first English queen to partake of

tea.

WHEN TEN IMPORTATIONS BEMĖN.

To show how India ten has ousted that from China from the British warkot, it is neccesary to mention only that China in last sent 136,000,000 pounds of tea to England, after which the importation of China tea gradually decreased, until it has become a mere fraction of the whole at the present time. Thus the amount of to "imported into Great Britain (and Ireland) for 1922 was 419,005,357 pounds, and valued at £25,088,150. Of this quan tity 255,139,926 pounds dance from British" India and 111,614,250 from ··Ceylon, valued at £16,101,633 and £7,975,660.

TKA IN SOCIAL LIFE-

For one of the ransons of this enormous increase of the tea trade, we must take a glance back at the social habits of Great Britau.

The earliest importation into England of ten in any quantity occurred in 1660, by the East India Co., when two canisters weighing 13 pounds were received from Bantam,

In 1671, through the same agency, care 264 pounds, in which con- signment Thomas Unrway was interest

From the middle of the 18th century ed. Garwar was proprietor of the cele Fashion adopted tea drinking, and has brated London coffee house known as become more closely allied to it as the Garraway's, and was instigator of the cars have advanced. According to the First uvertiseraht of the tea trade; for, changing customs and heurs of dining. in Mercurius Politicus of September, the time for ten drinking has varied; but. 165% appeared the following: That Ex- whatever has been the time, the occasions cellent, ami by all Physitians approved, for its consumption have always remain- China Drink, called by the Chiscans, ed, or rather have increased. During what Tiha by other Nations Tay alias Tee, is known as, the powder-costume period, isk at "the Sultaness-head a Cofbre. the teacup-times of hood and boop," House in Sweetings Rents by the Royaltea drinking took place in both afternoon Exchange, London."

and evening, besides sharing the bonours with cofee at breakfast. In early Vic- terian days, when heavy dinners weres enten at 5 o'clock and lasted until , tea was drank at about 9.30. on the gentle. men leaving their port and joining the ladies in the drawing room.

In 1630, Garwas also caused to be print ed some large breadsheets or bills, ex-

olling

the virtues of tea, which were dis played upon the walls of his coffee house and otherwise distributed One of these broadsheets is preservest in the archives of the British Museum library. A few in- teresting sentences may be picked from it-Tea in England hath been sold in the leaf for six pounds, and sometimes for ten pounds the pound weight, and in respect of its former scarceness and dear ness it hath only heer used as a regalin in high treaments

to Princes, and Grandees, till the year 1657.

These are to give notice that the said Thema's Garway hath Tea to sell from sixteen to fifty shillings the pound." The "broad sheet is headed, "The Exact Description of the Growth, Quality and Virtues of the Leaf Tea." Garraway's ourished for some 200 years.

Among the middle classes that dined at midday, tea became a fairly substantial men, partaken of about 5 &'clock in the afternoon, and even developed at times into what was termed a meat tea or high tea. This had considerable vogne at the end of the Sox. When the fashionable dinner hour became later and later, tea came into an existence as a meal taken at 5 o'clock.***

This

This eventually grew into the present prevailing custom of 4 o'clock te hich has become universal not only in Eng- land but in many other countries. society custom has now exteralel to the Business world all over Great Britain, and From these initial insignificant consign-has increased enormously since the war. nents, the amount of tea sent to England so that is, every workshop factory or large by the East India Co., which had acquired store it is the recognized rule for tea to munopoly of the trade, increased by he served every afternoon, its invigorat- leaps and bounds. In 10 years after its ing and stimulating effects being con- introduction 181,545 pounds were import-sidered to make up in the increused ed, during the second 50 years 10.269.500 energy of the members of the various pounds, and the third 30 years 471,500,906 staffs for the time lost in its constamp- pounds. From 1 to 1926, the average tion. Thus, ever since 1974 hundreds, of may be taken at 20,000,000 pounds yearly, thousands of extra cups of tea have been making 731,000,000 pounds during the fat drunk daily and are still consumed all ter 26 years; a grand total of 1,268,251,751 över Great Britain. The restricted time sinen ten was first introduced into for the sale of intoxicants has also great- England.

ly increased the ten drinking to which the railway station refreshment roNUS, and even the bars at the race conrues, hear convincing witness,"

р

All this ten, though being sent "from India by the East India Co., was of course first aquired by it from China.

2

In 110, was founded, at the sign of the Golden Lion in the Strand, the great firm of Twinings, which soon beranie, aut still remiins; famous among the noted ten- trading houses of the world.

DEVYLOPMENT OF TRASHOPN.

As the popularity of tea drinking gain- ed ground in England, so teashopa hegan to be opened to meet the growing demand of the people." In every large town these tcashups have sprung into being, and exist in thousands in London and many of its suburbs. Large catering firms anch

DR. JOHNSON AS A TEA ADVOCATE One of the grentes; tea drinkers, and one of the most enthusiastic advocates of its beneficent powers as a safe stimu-as J. Lyons & Co., Ltd., in addition to lant, was Dr. Samuel Johnson. In 1756, their hundreds of ordinary tearhops, have Jonas Hanway wrote a philippie against built huge and handsome restaurants, tea, to which Dr. Johnson replied, and some, of which will hold thousands on which led to an acrimonious controversy their several floors, and in their largest between them.

Jahazon defender his Corner House ten and coffee may now favourite her with ch tenacity and he ohtained at any hour of the night and arder as to vanquish adversary com- day. Added to these are the teashops. pletely. The lexicograpuer describes him- of the Aerated Breal Co., Ltd., Lipton's, Belf

an hardened sinner in the use of Ltd., Slaters, Ltd., and other fries 100 the infusions of this plant, whose teapot numerous to mention. had no time to cool who with ten solneed the midnight hour, and with tea wel comed the morning." Particularly was Johnson partial to taking tea at the house of his friend Jr. Thrale.

Also such celebrated authors as. Addi- son, Pupe, Coleridge," and the poet 'Cow. per eulogized tea; and a little later Rev. Sydney Smith wrote. "Thank God for tea! What would the world do without ten? I am glad I was not horn before fra,"

START OF THE TEA GARDENS.

*

About this period tea gardens, ar to he more exnet, pleasure gardens, in which the visitors congregated to drink ten, be- gan to spring up in what were then the various suburbs of London. Bazniggo Wells in Clerkenwell, the Adam and Eve grounds (en which now stands a licensed house bearing the same name) in Totten- ham Court Road, Vauxhall, Bermondsey Spa, and various places in the Chelsea district became resorts of fashion for drinking tea.

Following there a few years later came the tea gardens at the Spaniards Inn,. Hampsteall, celebrated by Dickens in

The Pickwick Papers" in the memor alle meene of Mrs. Bardell's ten party, which ended in her arrest for the costs in the breach of promise case with. Mr. Pickwick, and her subsequent incarcera-

Other causes that added to the in- ercased consumption of tea in England in past years were the lessening of prices through competition, the opening of the Suez Canal, nid the substitution of steamers for the old sailing veacle

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