1922-06-20 — Page 6

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PARIS FASHION NOTES, [Boy our GPsctɩL CORRMIPONORNT, ISABEL HAMBAT.]

FARMS, May 15th.

As well as the tailored saits still three- piece costumes I wrote about in last week's letter, there are many very beautiful and effective day and evening gowns, in Moly- neux's Spring collection; but, always, the dominant note is that of simplicity, and one feels, that these models were designed with an effort to create gaëns which would in keoping with the present financial

crisis.

up

>Instead of rich fabrics and expensiro Inces and trimmings, most of the models ure munde of materials which are effective but not necessarily costly to create an effect of richness (which perhaps can only be given by the brilliant brocades and gold and silver hués of a couple of seasons ago) Malyneux has thought of the clever | idea of choosing rich colóars, cutting his. models on long, sweeping lines and then adding to each, just one touch of orignal- ity to claim the attention and mark sneb a model as being something above the or dinary. A perfectly plain, drapel gown in manve crepe Marocedia hal'n trail of: richly-tinted grapes catching

1b0 imperies on the loft hip--and nothing else to inake this model sich a desirable one, except the exquisite shade aml cut of the waterial of jade silk lace; another beautiful evening gown was in jude green satin with long sleevelike effects trailing to the hum of the skirt and a deep girdle of brilliants catching the waist in loosely at a low line; another model was in Guernesey crepe (in a war orange shade over which was worn a steel casaque, the contrast between this shining composie, tion and the warm tones of the crange crepe being quite startling in its effect. ivetess, another successful model was the plainest of plain "chemise" type of gowns ia petania-shaded prope de Chine, the original note in this so being a wide telt-girdle finished back and front with an ornament of brilliants, and long widths of the material fastened along the inside of the arm by awans of bands of satin ribbon in a deeper shake: the trailing widths of crepe · de Chine croated an effect of grace and movement whilst the three hands round. the white, rounded arm of the mannequin suggested the armlets of sonic beautiful slave. There were also, for the matron more than for the elegante who likes to role herself in black, statohy robes in black satin, Perepe de Chine and lace, but always the same idea prevailed of the designer laring relied for his effect on the draping suil then the addition of a single flower, ribbon or orunment. Gnd had always the impression of the designer wishing to claim and charm the attention by a single touch of colour or line rather thai dazzle it by a complicated erbemble. One gown was uses of flowing draperies in graduating shades of pink crepe de Uline and bad added to it a long cap effect reaching to the ground made, | alan," of plain, "-straight widths of different whales of crepe de Chije to match. There was, as well, the model sweeping down under the right armpit und exposing the whole of the shoulder, with which Moly- neux had already had such a success, last your. But, all these models, whether designed for the young or the old, were cut en-simple, sweeping, draped lizes, and int each case, they so moulded the figure, that the mantequin looked as though she had been poured into them as into some concrete mould. For the slim and the shapely, of course, such lines are ideal, bat one wonders what all the other women in the world are to do if they are to follow the fashion without appearing ridiculous. Fortunately, however, the saving grace about-sueli tõikates is that, when cut by a clever designer, and draped to suit the figure of the individual, the most robust or unshapely can wear them without fear.

in

Dumfries

Sweetheart Abbey

NOTICE.

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Hosxong DAILY PRESS.

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a charming cape wrap-the smartest and most elegant model of this type in the whole of the Molyneux collection in Hassouns in a new shule known as "burnt bread," and fluished with long tassels to match.

There were many other models, but all were designed on the simplest of lines, and the hals to match the day frocks were also in keeping with the unassuming, simple tastes of Britain's Princess,

When Princess Mary was: in Paris with her busband on their honeymoon, like every other young bride who ever came to this kingdon of clothes, she was not and on. straight lines, and bordered with satisfied until she had laid in a stock of a worked stripe stitch in brown wool, and Parisian frocks and hats. To do this, she went to Molyneux and close from his cul- lection a comprehensive supply of frocks, ccats and bats to cake back for her first London season as hostess at Chesterfield House. A survey of these reveals the fact that the weeks of travel on the Continent have not changed our Princess much and that she still remains" simple in her tastes of dress.As when she was the rather shy, blushing girl English crowda so At a conference given recently at the loved to cheer. True to her favourite Union Artistique by the Marquis de shade, Princess Mary chose blue bare Montferrier on Mode et I. Beauté à than any other shade, no less thug three travers lage," he asked Rese, Worth, of the many evening gowns she chose being Doucet, Poiret and Molyneux to illustrate in the parricular shade we bare decided to it with models from their collection. One call Mary blue, but which still bears a of the models designed by Molyneux was a variety of names in Franes, One, of these, modern wedding set inspired by ancient in crepe Marocruiu, showed a skirt taade Grecian ideals. Crepe satin was chosen for with two scallopoi flounce effects entirely the material for the bride and the four tiny embroidered in pearls and diamente, a bridesmaids, and, in the case of the bride, deep girdle and binds on the corsage being this was draped in bong, perfectly simple treated in the same way; a diadem of pearls lines and drawn up on the right side; the and diamente was added as a decoration corsage ended simply in a boat-shaped neck for the hair, and two long panels edged and no sleeves whatever, and the only decora with pearls and diamente. formed the train. tion was a'girdle of three, strands of silver Another evening gown was in periwinkle clasping the folds on the right hip with shade of blue, also in crepe Maroccaia, a silver ornament, three strands of the draped and caught up on the right side 'same drawn in Grecian fashion across the and with a long panel sweeping behind in front of the head, and a long string of the form of a train; the only decorative pearls reaching nearly to the hem of the note on this model was no iris caught onto skirt, from beneath which peeped oot the shoulder strap on the left side. A silver shoes and stockings. A perfectly dainty dance model was in periwinkle bine plain tulle veil and a sheaf of Easter lilies chiffon, showing gathered panels at the were added. The wee bridesmaids were side and finished with an original girdle also dressed in ivory crepe satin Greek of honeycombed chiffon, in an amethyet frocks, all the draping of which was pulled shade. A simple little day frock was into the side and allowed to hung down in a blue silk crepon, Enished with a belt of Jong point; they wore a silver girdle, two iridescent beads. Another simple walking strands of silver in their hair and dainty frock was in pastel pink tussore, finished ivory kid sandals embroidered in silver on with a collar and cuffs of fine, embroidered their stockingless fort. Instead of the binen. Next to blue, Princess Mary seemed conventional bouquet of flowers, they car- 19 favour yellow and brown shades, for ried plaited silver straw hasketa in the she chose a delightful walking suit in natte shape of bowls, and these were filled with in a golden yellow tint, made quite plain flower petals which they scattered in the

(Continued at foot of sezi column.)

pathway of the bride. "

PETER

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PETER DAWSON, LA,

Distillers, GLASGOW.

SCOTLAND..

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