1921-12-10 — Page 9

THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 10гE, 1991.

DODWELL & CO., LIMITED.

REGULAR SAILINGS TO NEW YORK & BOSTON

BOSTON via Suez

tår NEW YORK

**EGREMONT CASTLE”-

aailing on or about End Dea. -`asiling on or about End Jan.

#4: **DACRE' CASTLE"

LLOYD TRIESTINO.

TAKING CARGO-ON THROUGH BILLS OF LADING FOR LEVANT, BLACK SEA & DANUBE PORTS.

FIUME having been re-opened for train, marg is siso accepted for this port though Bills of Lading.

FOR SHANGHAL

FOR BRINDISI,

**

*CILICIA"

.1, 8.

** TRIESTE"

"NIPPON "

QILICIA”

44

25.

'TRIESTE "

sailingon or about 23-d December. sailing on or about Beginning Jan. 1922, VENICE & TRIESTE

sailing on dt about 15th December. miling on or about 10th Jan, 10% sailing on or about End Jun. 1022 Passengers Lugage cate insured at the Office of the Agents.

NATAL LINE OF STEAMERS.

1.3. ** UMSINGA",

**

sailing middle of an

Sailing from Colombo is South African Ports - SOUTH AFRICAN PORTS from CALCUTTA & COLOMBO.

Through Bill of Lading issued from Hongkong.

Fur Freight or Passage on any of the above Lines apply to

DODWELL & CO., LIMITED,

Aguats.

#

N. Y. K.

NIPPON YUSEN KAISHA

LEVELETION,

• ZOŃGKONG KUZJECA KATLINER FEŐR

♣ VANCOUVER SEATTER Japan porte

VICTORIA,

via Bandhnt

Through Bill of Ladling issued to hir Uvárland common Pointa in D.B.A. and Canada

KASHIMA, KARU

BUWA MART (calling Manila)

JUSHIMI MARU

KATORI MARU (Nagasaki direct) --

Tuesday Saturday, Wednes 1ay, Baizday,

17th Dec 31 to 14th Jan, at 11 3.2.

8th Feb ASISTE 4th Mar, at 11 am.

FASHION-MAKING, SECRETS OF FRENCH SUPREMACY.

comment. "Chacun & son tour." Who a position to buy the same sort of clothes krows but that some day she may be in as the duchess.t

INDO-CHINA

STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY, LIMITED. SAILINGS, SUBJECT TO ALTERATION

JK

BANGKOK vis SWATOW HAIPHONG is HOIROW SHANGHAI TIK SWATOW BANGKOK VIA SWATOW SK NGHAI Via Nero... SHANGHAI TAINOTAU VI SWATOW MANILA

... "MINGSANG" Sun., 1 th Dec, D'1

"LOKSANG.Month Day 10 mar

KWONGSANG Tues., 13th Dec, D'light "YATSHING

Toos, 1th Dec, D'light. ATUNGSHING Thurs., 15th Do., D'hight "OFFONISHING" Wed, 14th Dob, light TUNGSANG F 1th Dec. 3. MAUSANG.Sat; 17th Dou, Noon SHANGHAI YOKOHAMA & E033... “FOOSANG Sat, 24th Dec., D'light CALCUTTA LINE: This Lino affords regular sailings to Calentia, Fong, ka,

...Tesh Dea; 3...

SANDAKAN

STRAITS & CALCUTTA

French fashions are made in Paris an nowhere else. Silks come from Lyons,

THE MANUFACTURER COMES 18, cloth from Roubaix, embroideries and

Another infuetics on fashion is that laces from the Vosges from Brittany, an of the manufacturer. Those captains of Normandy, but only Paris knows how to industry confer with the dressmakers fashion them into dresses for women to months before they produce their new Soar The reason for this is not as materiais Together they settle to some explain. A cloth manufacurer, a keen degres what designs shall be woven, what busiacay man, will any mysteriously that coloured, dyes shall be used, what names "It is something in the air," and pro shall be given to old materials to make ceeds to tell of a dressmaker who tried then sell as new. When these materials to transplant his talent for fashion are woven and ready for use they are designing to America, with no success. taken to the dressmakers, who make He was forced to come back to Paris or

their choice and proceed to fashion their lose the illusive gift which

dresses accordingly. The beautiful even ing cloaks for which Paris dressmakers are so noted aro due, in particular, tö the materials designed by the manu- facturers. It is their artists who are In other words, & milliner declared responsible for the designs, their chemists SHANGHAI that a week of London robbed her of the for the dyes. Their private libraries offer capacity to tie a bow. In a hundred ways wide fields of research, and their work- the supremacy of Paris fashions has been ers are sent out to the public museums proved, in many times sad in many to study documents likely to be of in- MANILA. places; but no one has ever been able to terest. The dressmakers do the same

Like turns of thread the spiders throw, Mocked across his path.

BORNEO

BANGKOK TIENTSIN

say why, it is that Pacis maintains the thing, and together they produce the HAIPHONG supremacy. It would be plausible and happy results we know as Paris fashions. saay to put it down to feminine vanity Between them they have built up a great which will not be denied; but it would national industry, and through their not be true. The might and right of united efforts not only are women dress- Paris in the matter of fashions is some-ed well, but France earns fame and her thing much finer than that. Fashion in population is assured work. France is a national industry, built up contary by century, until, it is a strong fashion-making is the work of fashion Yet another thing of importance in hold of trade. As the peasant is to the artists in the Press. An immense army land, so the workgirl is to dressmaking. of these clever people is busy doing pro Both have inherited a talent for their Paganda for the "dressmakers. work and both cling to old-fashioned stand out as creators, but the rank and A few methods, knowing intuitively that it is le either copy or get their inspiration the turn of the potter's thumb which from current modes. Not a few of the most prominent men dressmakers to-day began their career by making dress de is which they offered to the Rue do in Paix

counts.

So strong is the power of the dress making industry in all its branches that it has withstood many national cata The least influential factor in the olyams. After each social upheaval it emerges stronger than ever. When Louis making of fashions is the woman who XIV set up his fashion puppet in the when society women both piped and paid. wears the clothes. There was a time. Court of Versaillesand sent forth Now they pay only. They depend on fashion decrees to civilization, the effect their dressmaker, and the dressmaker is was felt only by courtiers and those who dependent on "something in the air for served them. When Marie Antoinette bar inspirations. Youth and the needs of called upon the services of Mime. Bertin, youth are what the "something the populace was not affected, but after means. When youth was subject to age, the Revolution of 1798 fashion showed then fashions were stiff and formal. Now signs of becoming democratic, and since that youth is free, fashions are easy and then she has moved with the times un-sometimes too bold. Why youth should hesitatingly..

IDEAS FEOX MONTMARTER. Dressmakers now draw their inspira tion from the people more than from the aristocratic minority. Many a fanion is formed in Montmartre, to be shaped tombot sophisticated needs by the Bus de la Pair. Amidinette playing with a hat puts it on back to front, stores a triumph and creates a fashion. Another uses the material with which she is working inside out, and the dreamaker sote a new mode. It is always the un pected which happens in fashion. There as nothing monotonous in the way she She is a will-o-the-wisp, an un- reliable jade; she is not dull. The street-urchin her model one day, the after a western queen at one moment and dances round Pavlova Akira at the next. In winter she pines after muslin, and when summer comes she insists on everyons wearing felt and fur. Her as pect is entirely frivolou

really

be able to call more clearly to the Paris dressmakers than to the dressmakers of other countries is a mystery. It may be that in Paris the claim of beauty to luxury is traditional. It may be that it it really something in the air, something distinctly atmospheric, for it is true that many women of other races who come to live in Paris learn how to dress with better taste than if they stayed at home.

MARSEILLES, CONDON & ANTWERP Vis Singapore, Penangstitama Jures her the next. She prances of the fine arts which necessarily refines

Colombo, Suez and Port Said

YOKOHAMA MARU

Friday,

YOSHINO MARU

Friday,

MISHIMA MARU

Friday

HAMBURG, via LONDON & BOTTERDAM,

2nd Dea, At"

6th Jan, at 11. min. 30th Jan, at 11 am

LIVERPOOL in MARSEILLES.

KAMAKURA MARU

Tuesday.

13th rec

Educated taste has also much to do with Paris dressmakers' success. Dress to them is not merely dress. It is an ex pression of art. Love of the beautiful material things of life inspires them to make clothes as others make pictures. They bring to their work a knowledge" their work and puts it on a higher level; than that of mere dressmaking. is M. Jacques Doucet, the well-known There art collector whose collection of 18th century furniture and pictures was a mine days wonder when it was sold a fall of treasures and has founded a new few years ago. M. Poiret has a house school of art as well as an open air established us Powers in art and busines theatre. The sisters Callot are so firmly student of the arts. He has to deal with that they are less easy to approach than reen and women of all kinds and conthe Prime Minister of France, and there ditions from many countries, and He is

But behind the frivolity lie knowledge, common sense, and a keen business in stinct. The successful dressmaker is

SYDNEY & MELBOURNE via Manis, Zamboanga, Thursday student of human nature as well za a

Island, Townsville & Brisbane:

NIKKO MABU

A

NEW YORK, VIA PANAMA & OUBAN PORTS.

TANGOʻMARU

AKI MARU

TOBA MARU

NEW YORK VË SUEZ.

TRUYAMA MARU

RIO DE JANEIRO, SANTOS &

20th Doc., at 11 am 17th Jan, at 11. 14th Feb '1

Tuesday,

Tuesday, Tuesday

Friday,

30th Dec.

Morday,

2nd Jan

BUENOS AIRES

LOAFE:

Sunday, 18th Dec.

Saturday, 10th Dec. Saturday,

24th Dec.

Fiday,

ZOMBAY vis Bingsport, Penang and Colombo,

AWA MARU

CALOUTTA ris, Singapore, Penang & Rangoon.

› TSUSHIMA MARU ...

YEBOSEI MARU

In

NAGASAKI, KOBE & YOKOHAMA.

NIKKO MAHU

YAMAGATA: HABU

boy..

BHANGĦAL, KOBE & TOHOHAMA..

MFHIMALARU

"BADO"MARU“.

BILL PHON

fox, farther information apply

Telephone Hox. 20% & 283

Wednesday, Tuesday, Fridny,

18th Dea, at li am

14th Dec, 19th Dec, all'am... Zörd. Deo, si 1-jét,

NIPPON YUSEN KAISHA

K. H. KAMPI, Manager.

KISEN KAISHA

YAMASHITA

(THE YAMASHITA S.S. Cœ LTD.)

PLATA

}

REGULAR FREIGHT & PASSENGER SERVICE

AB BETWEEN

KELUNG, HONGKONG & HAIPHONG

toplije muine Stiffig from Hongkong.

POR HAIPHONG via Holhow & Pakbola.

ゴ

88. TAIKWA HARU.

on-or-about-Dec. 92nd

POR KEELUNG.la Swatdw & Amoy

EB. “HOZOI MARUMAN

on or about and Die.

For further particulars, élease apply to---

inbau Efestod, Want,

VES2. No. 155,

Top Floar, King Building

called upon to play many parts. Here numberlega dressmakers whose homes must combine the tact of a Harley-streetre centres of art in one or other of its physician with the business acumen of branches. Celebrated mudicious dine aew and the critical taste of an art other. Philanthropy, too, is not without with dhe, great painters frequent an collector. The role is a hard one, but there are dressmakers in Paris who all it well.

its votaries, and sach men as Worth are feitizens of value to the country by reason

works.. of their landed interests and their social

There

"M.

With such solid foundations, it is not to be wondered at that the dressmaking trade flourishes in France. It is indeed,

It is in these high places of the dress making world that fashions are made. There are three or four firma which dressmaking and manufacturing world Another feature which marks the dictate the new styles. The others of France is the direct personal contact follow, vary, develop, and sometimes which the heads of the firme maintain improve; but they do not create. Those with their workers. The firm of Bodier, who know the ropes of the dress making cloth manufacturers, represents enor world can foretell coming styles by study-mons wealth and generations of culture; ing the models sent out from these three yet to-day, sa in the past when the firm or four firms. It sometimes takes two was developing its business, the family or three seasons for a radically now works in the warehouses and shops and style to capture popular taste, but personally visits the customers. eventually it succeeds, by which time it are twe brothers Bodior, and each has u came Popular fashiods are six months of the world, who speak two or three pia old in the quarters from which it son. They are all widely informed men or more behind the latest fashions of the languages and are to be met in what is most exclusive dresamaking firms, and still known as society in Paris. They what is looked: #pan sa si eccentricity are also to be met any day of the week one year is commonly worn the next. during business hours in their waro The means by which the leading houses, where their employés know them firms get their new ideas are not always (familiarly by their Christian names. easy to trace; but the influence Rich M. Pierre M. Paul," or Eastern Lashions bave had over the Jean," are real individuals to each ons Western world for gode time is clearly of them, and when disputes arise they are accounted for by the coming of the treated with inside and personal know- Russian Ballet. The Paris dressmakers ledge both of the individual and the sub-| were completely overwhelmed when these ject," ballets were first given in Paris, They fang from them their old traditions of whalebone and stiff linings, they drop ped the fashions of the 18th century, and national industry, for although the! adopted the apply grace of Schche roots are planted in Paris, its branches razade. There was a great outery from stretch to the far ends of the country; the fortresses of respectability, and some from the coasts of Brittany, where the seasons passed before the bourgeoisie wonden make laces and embroideries, to consented to give up the tight wasebelt. the mountains of the Vosges and the The same thing happened when phort Dauphine, where linen is bleached and skirts appeared in the pince of long ones, gloves are made by the peasants.--Times Who can forget the hobble skirt? Supplement. Safety came with greater width, but after crying shame on her and her ankles," the same moralists winked at her knees. The short skirt camo from Monmartre or the Latin quarter. For years there have been a few grisettes who wore them, and attracted disapproving glances from the matron with her daugh ters all dressed aliko. Bat the dress makers are frankly democratic, and have, besides a liking and respect for the little Parisienne. They know that her mind is as active se har feet, and they relyg her wit to sell their unsuccessful models, Bho gives them many a new idea, and bears them on ill-wall for telling Madame ld Duchesse that it was "Her Grace who inspired it. A shrug of the should- ers, and a quaint twisted guile is the only

STRIKES İN BİRĻAS.

Berlin from Namen says:-Through the

A A recent wireless message received in incitement of the communist leaders clerks in the employ of the City Police Works of Barlin Etruck and the technical employees followed suit. Then electric light employés struck so that street traffic was interrupted. The domobilisation Commission in thay rendered incapable of proceeding with its work The German Government, it dated, is adopting drastic measures to meet the situation duties, otherwise they will be permanendy Strikers have bell warned to resume their discharged without further notice.

LAISAN

Singapore, returning from Calcetes teams proceed, via Barat and Hongkong to Japan, occasionally calling as Shanghai. All ateamere bave excellent passunger acquinmoration, it Atted with Electric Light and Fatin and carry a ful.y-lin

LANE:-Eng

approhmatsly every ve daya dewoon Canton and Shanghal, cometimes calling at Sws ow Through tickets eas..... be obtained and through Bill of Lading are issued to Northern and Yangtase Forta vis Shanghát, LANKA weekly service is maintained with Manila by vasacia with good approximately weekly for passengers and cargo calling at doihow when inducement offers. LINE:-Fortnightly sailings to and from Sandakan he two 5,000 tons Iteamers 1.5. "HINSANG" and sa, MAUSANG both steamers saving excellent passenger accommodation. L'argo taken or shrough Bills of Lading for Endat, Jesselton, Labuan Tarac and Labad Data,

LINE-A weekly service is provided between Hongsong and Bong LINE:-A regular service is run from March to November betwork

Hongkong and Tiantain, calling as Weihaiwai and Chefoo. vis Swatow, by four stommers fitted with up-po-date page accommodation

LINE:-ger socommodation, mailings from both porta every, hiday

CALOUTTA

LINE

S.E. LAISANG" will be despatched on or about Tuesday, 20th Dec., at 3 p.m., for SINGAPORE, PENANG & CALCUTTA.

Through Bills of Lading issued to RANGOON, PORT BWET, TENHAM, MADRAS and DUTCH EAST INDIES,

Für Freight or Passage apply to

CAPRONS No 15.

Jardine. Matheson & Co., Lidi

GLEN

GENERAL MANAGERS

SHIRE

AND

Joint Service of Steamers.

U.K.-STRAITS, CHINA

Teur 1

MAY GLENAVY" M.V. "GLENGYLE' ALV. "GLENLUCE" 56. "GLENSHANE'

8.9 "GLENIFFER"

MY. "GLENAVY”

- OUTWARDS.

JAPAN SERVICE.

HOMEWARDS.

Leaves Hongkong.

Dae Hongkong

13th Dec. 16th Dec Slit Dea.

Sist Dec.

Disbarga: 19th Dec. Goa; London; ANTWERP, ROTTERDAM & 20th Jan, Ɑxuda, LONDON, BOTTERDAM, HAMBURG.

Movements are subject to aljaške without notion, freight or farther particulars please apply so':

Jardine, Matheson & Co., Ltd.

The Glen Line, Ltd.,

Telephone No. 315 rab-ax. 23 and 8896.

Cable Address

Kawakisan, Kobe Milay's A.B.C. 5th Ma.

"and" "Boott's Clades.

KAWASAKI

ISEN

STEAM

(APITAL PAID-UF .....

Frodiderki- Mr. Y. KAWASAKI Vice-President Mr. E MATNLAZA Managing Directori Mi. Mausta, Ana

AGNETS.

Telephone-Beauemly

30

KAISRA

Company has on Hand a Larga Hamber of

NEW CARGO STEAMERS

· CHARTERS of all"

ALWAYS ÁRADT FOR

descriptions. The following are comprised in the Company Flost rom

Eleven steamiers of 9,100 tons osch deadweight

Aha wader the Company's Management

Twonty Iteanders of about 9.100 ton dend W IT WOLNESSMUrs sóïigbout 8,2001őfin deïa weigh

Belonging to the Kannaki Iker ANT GOS-TALY For Uharter Babes ind til ölker parilöstars zapoly, lo tha

KAWASAKI KISEN KAISHA

Het B. Barn BOL