1921-02-16 — Page 2

Page

PARIS FASHION "NOTES.

IFROM OUR SPECIAL "CORRESPONDENT,

· 13ADEL KAMBAY.]

THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16TH, 1921.

only trimming needed to finish this model is a big tassel tapering off the hanging end. Paisley, Oriental, and bizarre art nouvenu designs are much used for this type of hat.

Quite a novel idea is to utilise shells for trimming. The ordinary cockle variety is taken, cleaned, and dyed the required shade. Two holes are made at the base of the shell, and it is sown on with a background of narray kilted ribbon, arranged so as to outline each "shell, A model of this type was in dark navy blue, showing a brim turning right back from

[FROM

SPIOLAL

GLUT OF COTTON GOODS. CONTINENT TOO POOR TO BUY.

E.P.D. NIGHTMARE.

THE TIMES CORRESPONDENT.] Another type which is affected by the

MANCHESTER, December 30th, women whose ambition.it is always to be

There are no Mark Tapleys in Lancs. more smartly dresed than her friends is

shire, yet there was never such an oppor. This has a crown the face. The remainder of the hat, was the Chinese ruodel

devoid of trimming, but on this brim was tunity of gaining credit through being shaped somewhat like the roof of a

During the past 10 pagoda.. and this is encased in a high placed row upon row of small cockle shells jolly in adversity. standing up brim, the edges of which are dyed nary bluo, each shell being backed daye I have been mixing with those en- The drastic attitude adopted by the inclined to carve outwards. Such a shape by a kilting of tiny navy ribbon, Chest gaged in the manufacture of cotton goods clerg in these two matters is causing is covered with a material of Oriental nut brown and Veronese green are also and have not succeeded in fading a real optimist. A walk on the Manchester worldly mothers with budding daughters hae and design, and very often the peak chosen as shades for this particular typeOhange has been a depressing experi

PARIS, January 3rd. The pulpit has been so insistent in its "attacks on present-day dances and pres Bent-day fashions of late that fashionable wamen who are also orthodox Christians have been refraining from over-indulgence in the fox-tret and tango, and adopting clothes requiring more material for their construction than in the past.

much anxiety of mind, and the girls of the strict, wellbrought-up classes many, tears a protests. I the fox-trat and the tango are banned by the Church, where in all Paris may a mother conduct a mar- riagenble daughter with a view to secur- ing for her an eligible partner, because where in all Paris is there a smart the dansant or ball-room-the haunts of the eligible young male these days-where the foxtrot and the tango are not danced

Such is one of the many soul-searching questions the modern mother is asking

of the crown is finished with a gold or silver tassel. These hats are exceptionally wear with tailor-mades ur smart for plain-Atting costumes.

nt'hat,"

ence Members have flocked to the Cotton Capital presumably for the sake of shar- is the fellowship of common despond.

The uninitiated have often wondered what women did with their lingerie which

ency, but there has been little business. The tam shanter shape seems never the extremely low decolletes raade super- to dwindle in popular favour. It is to ha fluous. For those about to indulge in done. Most of the markets seemed to be seen in fanciful form in the shops of backless or sleeveless gown, let me tell absolutely tied up, and Lancashire is not leading modistes and on the heads of them that the singlet for wear with prepared to make the drastic ents needed

reach only women who haunt the Bois and the boule these confections must

Mills and warehouses are glutted with yards, just as frequently as it is to be a few inches above the waist, and to create a new demand. seen tilted jocularly on the heads of be held in place by ribbon threaded students in the Latin Quarter, where it through a hem at the top, and fastening goods manufactured at the higher rates,

looked

HOW PRICES BOMBED.

LOSSES AT LIVERPOOL.

Whereas so smali a sum as 22d. per lb.

Even among the somi-optimists thers are low who would prophesy an improve- is being taken at the present time as a

ment before February or March. --Spin- fair price for 39's twist, at the opening pera at present can take po orders to of July the price ranged between 49ja.keep the mills going, for they have ao

cumulated stocks and tied up their and 74jd. ^„The following table affords

money. Beyond the question of finan a comparison between the prices in pra- cial resources to enable mills to continue- war times and those at the petering out there is the storage capacity of holding-

stocks. Cellars are too full to accom of the "boom," the comparativo, prices modate any more. In order to get rid being those of 32's cops twist yarn and of these stocks all sorts of expedients have had to be adopted. Some have made shirting cloth at Manchester:

concassions in prices or have had to face an absolute cancellation of orders, which has left them with losses.

1914,

sold.

YARN.

to 11 d. 100 to 11d. 10d. to lid. 615/18d, to 10jd.. 9 11/16d. to 10d.

1014.

6/3 to 1/3 8/2 to 11 8/21 to 11/1

CLOTH.

19:20.

40fd. to 74jd. 40/d...to 740. 480. to 60%." sod. to 70d. 40d. to 89d.

6/9 to 11/0

1920" 40/0 to 43/6 40/0 10, 48/6 40/0 to 43/0 40/0 to 48/6.

39/8 to 42/0.

"On December 20th the prices were

6/13 to 10/10)

If a spinner bought at 30d. and "to- day the price is about 10 d., it menus. that he is sending" out" finished yarn at good deal lower price than the cotton from which he made it. Liverpool has She lost heavily in this connection. bought cotton last year at high prices en there was a scarcity), market prices and the result

was that the points on were run up. Now this cotton has been left on the merchants' hands and the Liverpool firms are having to soll at any 22d.in several failures.

price, a development which has resulted to 248. for 5lb. shirting cloth. The naturalment should at ones announce their in- abire is unanimous it is that the Govern... result is that at the moment present tention definitely regarding E. P.D. This tax has reduced the available re

27d. for 39's cops twist and Sts. to If there is one thing on which- Lancs-

Herself in between Sundays, when she has had its home from time immemorial. tightly in front. If necessary, a brassierei and: unless there is a greater demand i atocks are at inflated values, the banks. serves of commerce and industry and is attends service only to hear some eminent Like those worn by the students, the most is also worn, and this is made the usual looks as though there will have to be a have,tightened their credit, and the Con- a handicap in dealing with a sudden" i pasionate language dances crented by additional trimming may be added in the away towards the waist-line to almost 130g. That is a prospect which can only of the present situation was given to metal is required. "dranken Mexicans and negroes."" On the other hand, as though this were not sufficient. she is faced with the problem of dressing herself and her daughter in

and those of the Church.

"

**

shape of a quill, sticking out at an angle dangerous to passers-by, or a band of gay-coloured ribbon ending in a cockade

be

The history emergency when a large amount of capi- It was with reluctance on with disquiet. A nothing at the back.

tour through the areas. most particularly well-known business man as follows: that the Manchester Chamber of Com- affected shows that already there is dis-importer of the raw material. The latterDuty, and only as an alternative to a The slump started at the top with the merce acquiesced in the Excess Profits Fine linen continues to reign supremstress, and, in the case of Burnley, actual had puchased raw material at a high lovy on capital. If E.P.D. stands there The cotton manufacturer is no price, and, carrying the same amount of will be a good many claims against the at one side. A daintier model is fashioned in the mind of a Parisian when she is want. cinthes which, will conform at one and of ribbon woven into a check pattern, this choosing her lingerie, but. because of its believer in miracles, but unless a miracle stock, he required a great deal more capi-1 Government during the coming months. the same time to the dictates of fashion for the crown and plain carded silk for high price, this is not saitable for all. does happen there will be very hard times tal The spinner was the next to feel Firms who have made paper profits and

the band which does daty as a brim; As a next-best-thing there is voile, crepe to face in the early days of 1021.

the tightness, because he had to spin yars have since experienced losses will expect for trimming, the hat is dragged over the and finetta to choose from. French, There is one hibboleth to which all from more highly priced cotton, which those losses to be made good. Instead of right car and caught down with a hat-pin women are not as fond of silk and etepe classes cling: the world needs cotton he passed on to the manufacturer and a revenue tax it will, therefore, become run through from front to back, the bead de Chine for their underwear as most It is the one factor in the situation to thus blocked him. The manufacturer inn liability.

But how a turn blocked the merchant, and the mer- A good many people liable to E.P.D. of the pin being in pearl. jewelled, or or other women are, and much prefer these which all pin their faith.

This year mental in some other degree.

they will have heavy losses and" all” the is to bay from Lancashire goods which thiler. have boca manufactured at a high cost, without demanding sacrifices which would

The casing will take place in exactly money expected by the Chancellor last Here is a case react harshly here, is a problem which is handling cotton at less than half the £100,000 last year and could not pay

The merchant is now year will be swamped.

in point. A firm owed the Government at present baffling the experts.

The year 1990 Las been tremendously price it was, and if he is still carrying owing to the money being tied

should be per

Black

inch wide, is very effective when treated

the same order.

吵

of women whose taste in dress, as in mixed, or two coloured blended may be such as pink, pale blue, or mauve for abnormal. In the early months the world the same number of bales his position stocks. The latter have dropped and now

As a rule they choose a soft colour

"

All this agitation accounts. no doubt, for the gradual change which is taking place in the matter of dress, and the quieter and more. sombre modes, before which hare backs and sleeveless, gowns corded ribbon, about, three-quarters, of an impler fabrics. For. the present, too, world made poor by the ravages of war chant blocked the shipper and the re last year have never paid.

they are banishing lace and excessive em- Are wiving way. There are still countless

broidery, and content themselves with a examples of the ontre type of model. in this fashion, and, if colour or smart band of edging cut on the cross. perhaps even more wild and reckless than effects are aimed at, coloured ribbon may ever, but these are only worn by a class be taken, or else black and white ribbon

up in other matters, is, not to be taken as used with an equal amount of effect. typical of French women as a whole. The elegantes and the Parisian women of good Tam-o-shanters made of some plain course, being white. Neither are French which were reported to have been made er is taking cheap cotton in and he is taste are ceasing to wear gowns which material, for choice those of a subdued women very fond of coloured lingerie, in Lancashire. The "boom" was at its sending out dear yarn, so his position Further, they are not now liable, Pro- display more of their figure than does the shade, are utilised as foils on which to dent from their usual tastes in this initia. Companies were being reficated. affairs will cation and this stats of owing to the paper, profits are now, produce effects of decoration. depart Millions were with a to affect the mer-. average bathing suit.

stance, a dark blue tam will he decorated direction, they select pastel pink, lilac, glioness which staggered the unsophisti chants, shippers, and retailers.

Unfortunately this forward movement The pantalon is very cated Fortunes were being made on with hand-embroidered flowers of fruit; a beige, or grey.

In those days there were is considerably delayed owing to financial black one will serve as a foundation for short and full, and the chemise and cache-every hand. worked-on designs of silver and jet beads, corset are made with a square neck and cotton operatives who said they had made tightness and a slump in trade on ac and so on. Many modistes are still using according to the Empire form, with two enough money on which to retire and count of declining values, but when once enjoy the amenities of Southport and this dear stuff has been liquidated and Blackpool. Spinners and manufacturers passed into the hands of the consumers, leather for their hats, and making these straps over the shoulders... soft tims and trimming them. in this

One very dainty model was A garment which has become univer-were unable to keep pace with demands and to a greater or less extent worn out, For yarn and sloth, but cautious observers it will mean that all classesof the trading sally popular is the combination-jupen. predicted that the "boom" would not community will have got rid of their This is a cache-corset that is made from last through the year, and by the end of high-priced goods. It will bring an end a plain strip of material, gathered into March last the slump had set in.. to financial stringency, and, on account two shoulder straps at the top, and into Since then there has been an increasingly of the banks being in a position to lend a waist-hand at the bottom; on to it is teadly decline of business, and curtailmore money, it will enable firms to enter joined a shortish petticoat. the whole ment of production by arrangement has into fresh contracts which at present they doing duty for these two garments in increased until now Lancashire's industry have to avoid owing to difficulties in the

is semi-paralysed.

way of obtaining sccommodation.""

Modistes are busily planning and making the millions of hata which will grace the heads of their air clients during the coming season. As a rule these models will rely on the charm of velvet and lace for their success. The little silk turbans that have been so much worn this season fashion. are likely to continue their reign of pop-made of white kid and was embroidered ularity, as they are so very becoming to with different shades of pink carnations. almost any type of face. They are quite These were worked in ribbon and were simply made, with a strip of silk that is raised from the material. Needless to wound round a turban shape in a series any, such a model would be too fragile and of grace folds, and ends by hanging to liable to soil for everyday wear, but ex down on the left side. "As a bright-pat-its effect, for special wear, was torned piece of material is chosen, the quisite.

one.

As an instrument for assisting the fin- Ances of the country E.P.D. is of little use, as a hindrance to trade it is a night-

mare,

TRANS-ATLANTIC SCOTCH.

#

Gin a boddy ask for teddy

Of a Scottish brand; Let a body ware a shoddy

From a distant land. Ever fearing profiteering. Keep a careful watch. Bince Yanks went dry

We find the rye

Keeps coming through the Scotch! -O.E.B. in the London Evening News.

NESTLE'S MALTED MILK

THE FOOD-DRINK

Sold By

NESTLES

MALTED MILK

CONTAINS » CÓMPOLA

AG EXTRAGE OF MALTER

Pugna Comadica Mura

UNIT WERET IN OUNCES

IN BOTTLES

7 07. and 15 oz.

NESTLÉ & ANGLO SWISS COND-

MILK CO..

11, QUEEN'S ROAD CENTRAL, HONGKONG.

Please send us Free Trial Bottis Nestle's

Malted Milk & Booklet:

•Namo se Address.

FRENCH STORE,

LANE, CRAWFORD,

QUEEN'S DISPENSARY,

WATSON'S, CHEN KWONG,

CHAN YUEN,

KWAN TAI

LAI TACK CHEONG,

SANG TẠI,

SINCERE'S,

SUN CO.,

WING ON CO.,

AN

AND OTHER STORES.

IDEAL

FOOD

MADE IN A MOMENT

E

NESTLES

MALTED MILK

Tie Bestus CONTANS A COMPLE

WK AND EXTRACT OF MALTER -BARLET AND HALTED WHEAT FLO

RELLE BRICO SATs Correo Nex CHAM VEVEY CHATTERNAMES & LABDAI WETT! WEIGHT 13′ OUNCES

IN BOTTLES

7 oz. and 15, oz/