1914-05-30 — Page 6

Neuralgia,

Nervous Breakdown-

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THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, MAY 30гa, 1914.

THE FAR FASTERN SCENE.

THE YANGTSZE GORGES.

BY VIOLET MARKHAM

one we borrowed a stove, from another chairs, two 50-cent. hand-lamps ensured we should not sit in darkness of an evon- ing. We hung up blankets and coats where the peep of day" was too ginring Through the boards of our cabin, and settled down quite happily to keeping honso.

The Yangtze Kiang has been from We left Tchang in that turmoil of time immemorial the greatest highway in shouting and noise without which no China. Rising among the shows of Chinaman can accomplish work of any kind. It was dead calm, and for the first. Thibet, it flows first through the remote few miles there was nothing for it but to and turbulent province of Szechewan till take to the clumsy sweeps of which I have near the border of Hoopsh province a spoken, six or seven men working at each car in a manner unpleasantly suggestive barrier ridge of mountains appears to of the old slave galley. It was necessary offer implacable resistance to any further to give our crew names in order to dis- progress. Through these mountains, tinguish one from another, and we were. however, the Yangtze forces its way in liberal with saints and apostles. These

Yangtaze boatmen work their oars to the grand series of gorges which are 're- strange monotonous chanty, without garded as one of the marvels of Asia. which they never pull a stroke. The gorges extend for a distance of about class of men worse paid and harder But the trackers! Probably there is no 450 miles from Chung King in Szechwan worked than these poor fellows who tow to Ichang in Hoopeh. The river, con junks up stream between Ichang and fined between precipitons walls, flows in Chung King. I was told that their pay & series of rapids, runs, and races, which for the month's trip between these two points was one dollar Mexican (about render navigation at all times arduous 28.), plus their food. The work is of the and often precarious. The gorges are not most laborious kind. The Yangtze tow continuous; here and there the cliffs open path, as I soon found out for myself in The course of daily walks, is in the main out into wide stretches of country, where

a mass of stones. When the stream 18 the bills draw back a little distance from high and the current swift the effort of the river-bank. But in the main this towing the boat up race and rapid be comes tremendous. The rope, slender reach of over 400 miles through which affair made of bamboo twine, is fastened the Yangtze pours its mighty discoloured to the top of the mast, and at these waters is one great funnel, and up and difficult points thirty or forty men, down this funnel the considerable river recruited from the neighbouring village, will be harnessed to it, and yet traffic has to make its way, for the Yangminutes may pass before one inch of pro- tsze constitutes the main entrance and gress is made. I have known no sight exit of the province of Szechewan. more painful than this spectacle of the The Yangtsze is one of the longest rivers Yangtze tracker toiling on the bank, bent absolutely double, his hands touching: in the world, and the gorges expedition the ground, in the distance looking like to see anything of the district cannot be some new strange animal at whose accomplished much under a month, identity one can hazard no conjecture. La Bruyere's appalling description of From Shanghai to Ichang, the last the French peasant before the Revolution European settlement at the mouth of the was frequently in my mind as I watched gorges, the distance of 1,100 miles is com them. Withal I am bound to say that

they were as cheery, good-tempered, and c fortably, and expeditiously covered in healthy a set of men as I have ever come about a week or ten days by the excellent

across When they came on board at service of steamers which ply on the upper night their good spirits were irrepre: and lower waters of the river. The crews with half a pig, and great was the

Bible. One evening' we presented" ou Yangtze is in the main a great dis jollity which then obtained on board. coloured stream, flowing for hundreds The pig, backed by the extravagant of miles between mud-banks through a largeain of five cents (one penny per flat, drab country. Withal it is a mighty man), was the occasion of a real festa river, and Nanking, the ancient capital and chattering, and, I fear, gambling of the Mings-a heap of ruins when I went on to a late hour that night; my saw it in November, on the morrow of the string of cooper cash changing hands rebellion and Hankow, a flourishing many times before the feast was over. commercial centre higher up the river, have their own interest for the travelle: Beyond Hankow, however, the call of the wild becomes more insistent, till at Ichang the eye rests at last on the great huddled range of mountains to the west through whose recesses we are to take our way. At Ichang the steamer service comes to an end, and the adventurous must make other dispositions for con

Other travellers have already described the grandeur and solenmity of the Yang- taze gorges. They reminded me not a little of my own Derbyshire dales, pro- longed ad infinitum, and, of course, en We penetrated through a larger scale. three or four of them in the course of our ten days' trip over the border into Szechwan The river was very low at the time, and the dreaded rapids of the

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and forces portions of the impurities through the skin in the form of Pimples, Boils and. Blotches. External remedies... powders, ointments, lotions only alleviato: they do not. get at the cause. Dr. Morse's Indian Root Pills get at the cause by removing the discase from the Blood. They cleanse? the system by stimulating the the liver and strengthening kidneys, which filter the Blond

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tinuing the journey, up stream. It is Shin Tan, the Yeh Tan, and the Tung SHACKELL, EDWARDS & CO., LTD.

true an occasional steamer forces its way Ling Tan presented fewer difficulties than up the rapids to Chung King, a sufficient usual. A long, open stretch of river-bank ly perilous passage for a vessel of any divides the first gorge from the second, size. But in the main travellers prefer the famous Ox Liver Gorge, where the the slow but immemorial method of the gront cliffs fall shear into the water in junk for negotiating this stretch of the impressive guise. No less wild and strik river; sailing when the wind is propi- ing is the Wushan Gorge beyond. At. tions, otherwise being towed up the night when the junks were tied up to the rapids by what are known аз the bank away from a village the silence, pave "trackers;" clawing one's way from for the sough of the water on the stones, point to point of the gorges; creeping was penetrating, making the world of along the edge of the bank; now being men and cities seem immeasurably far hauled with shouts and yells through off. But even in this remote part of races and rapids with always-the-possible excitement of a broken rope before one's eyes and a swift and undesirable descent down stream, culminating in total ship- wrock. If the daily log of a Yangtze junk is not that of a mail-steamer, life on the former certainly makes up in excitement and in incident for what it Jacks in speed.

As in all Oriental countries a consider able retinue apparently was necessary to minister to the needs of our party of throo. Our expedition consisted of two junks, euphoniously termed houseboats, and & Government red boat. The junks were vessels of some sixty or seventy tons, about 30ft. in length, roofed in at the stern, open in front. An astonishing number of people were packed on to these vessels, in addition to ourselves. In the extreme stem lived our laodah," or skipper, with his wife and family. Next came the roughly boarded-in part divided into two cabins, where passengers sleep and eat. This roofed-in end of the junk gives it a curiously top-heavy appearance, and the two great, unwieldy sweeps or cars, which were our only method of pro- pulsion, apart from sailing or tracking, seemed ill-adapted to their work. In the open part of the deck forward about twenty-two Chinese lived, worked, and slept, six or seven of these being superior persons, members of the crew, the balance. consisting of the trackers, the luckless ill-paid beings, whose business it was to take to the land when the wind was un- favourable for sailing and tow us up the gorges At night some mata would be produced and bung up over the open deck, where the entire party rolled up in bed quilts and slept head to toes like sardines in a boxes van

The red boat was one of the Govern ment lifeboats, of which there are many stationed at dangerous, points through the gorges. Its five sailors were superior men of a better type than those on the junks. The functions of the red boat were, so to speak, to shepherd us in the rapids and pick up the bits if we were wrecked. The escort of one of these boats is always very desirable, if not essential, when traveling up the gorges, not so much from fear of wreckage as the official imprimatur it gives to the expedition. For the journey takes one quite out of touch with civilisation or European settlement of any kind. Altogether we must have numbered between fifty and sixty people when oue grey morning we bade farewell to Ichang and turned west- ward towards the fret gorge some ten miles distant. Food, bedding, crockery, everything had to be provided, for beyond one or two Chinese tables and chairs the junks are destitute of furni ture. Our friends were kind to us; from.

China there is no escape from population. The economic pressure which renders the cultivation of overy inch of ground neces sary crowds houses, and villages even, on these precipitous cliffs. From the lovel of the water one looks up in astonishment at these tiny patches of cultivation far up on the mountain side, terraces built, as it were, in the sky, husbanding jealously each inch of soil; little houses with wide balconies supported on beams, bang- ing on us it were by their eyelashes over the very brink of the precipice. Here and there was a monastery, with fierce, upcurved roof, and on prominent points pagodas built to direct "good influences" up and down the stream..

The population in the main, though not I was called invariably, was friendly.

several Kwaiza"foreign devil on occasions during my expeditions on the tow-path. But generally speaking the villagers would laugh rather than scowl at one's sudden and unexpected appear- unce, and call off their barking dogs. The Chinaman is easily propitiated by a civil word or a jest, and our chafferings at various villages and the laughter to which they gave rise are among my out- standing recollections of a great and memorable picnic in the back of beyond.- Westminister Gazette.

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