The First Over-Channel Flight
(Baraques to Dover, July 25, 1909)
M. Blavior's momentem achievement
In Aying from Franze to England in a heavier than air machine is druined
to become a mitusione iu History,
Nerve Strain, Despondency, Exhaustion
THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS,
All the world knows about the Great Channel Flight, but it is from M. Bleriot himself we learn how much his marvellous conquest of the air depended upon the nerve force and endurance created by Phosforins. The great aviator confesses that the magnitude of his undertaking made him apprehensive and despondent, and only by re-inforcing his Berve power with Phosferine was he able to endure the great strain which resulted in such a brilliant triumph,
It is an established fact that the most brainy and daring men recognize success depends on man's or and M. Bleriot's tribute to the energ preceded by that of his countryman, M and thousands of distinguished people.
It is M. Elerial's conviction tha an abundance of nerve force to wi effects of exposure, and his channel
driving power-nerve energy, efficacy of Phosferine was man, the famous aeroplanist, er the world.
flight is impossible without the unseen risks, shack or ht experience of the vitalising
potency and permanent staying power of Phosfarine has compelled his grateful appreciation.
Entirely Dispelled and Prevented.
+1/
M. Louis Bleriot, the first man to fly across the English Channel, writes: I have also found, as my colleague M. Henri Farman has, that a considerable amount of benefit is to be derived from the use of Phosferine as a nerve tonic.
During the long, hazardous training flights that have been necessary with my different machines, previous to arriving at the perfection that my latest machine has attained, and the consequent "Inishaps which must necessarily prevail, Phosferine has stood me in
good stead.
For anyone, no matter what capacity, I can with confidence recommend Phosferine as a bracing nerve tonic and preventive against fatigue and a restorative for loss of vitality."-July 29, 1909.
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IN MY LADY'S CHAMBER.
(BY A CORRESPONDENT IN THE “TIME), ") It is a to dealt to make out who actually lenda the fashion. The dressmakers, or rather the heads of great dressitaking establishment, have some share in it, a few fashion papers have their part to play, a small number of women of supreme elegance and unerring taste play perhaps a more important part still. But there
something.
bohind all these, something strange, that often seems to thwart the very definite intentions of the fashion leaders.
There are a few plain and defiiite laws, and then there is besides a freakish, sportive kind of element that knows no law,
For instance, It is axiomatic that every woman likes to fool well-dressed. This pleasure is only to be had in its perfection for most people when the costume is now, and when, more than that, it is quite obviously new.
But no woman likes to be continually renew ing the whole of her wardrobe, and another nowritten law ordains that new styles shall tend to be modifications of the old, and that a good deal of choice shall be left to everyone, certain styles continuing wearable for a considerable time. This last tandone goer directly against the wishes of the fressmakers, who are always desiring and consequently predicting sudden, abrupt, and complete changes, and who have even gone so far as to throsten ne again and again with the return of the crinoline or the crinolette.
It is the women who wear the dresses who usually continue or adapt some fashion which they have found graceful or becoming. As rule they do not seek to startle, but to attract it is not they who wear those striking and dazzling creations seen generally at race meet ings and never met again.
THE USE OF THE SASH.
Eccentricities often hide a total lack of taste, and yet they may strike a very harmonious chord and may be worked up into very useful and beautiful modes. The mage for the sash, for instance, at present so provaleat, may be the cause of an absurdity or muy give a quaint and pleasing effect.
I saw a sash the other day that came out from the scams under the arms, crossed a little above the waist, and was fastoned in knot above the knees behind. It seemed to me a festde and futile kind of thing for a sash to do, On and yet the effect was not unpleasi: g. the other hand, I navor yet saw a sash tied below the knee without thinking it most Awkward and ugly. It is an unfortunate adaptation of the line that originally marked the place where the gown flowed ont round the fest. Sometimes the sash may be prettily draped over the shoulders, but its right place seems to be round the waist, which is reappear ing once puro in the position where habit has accustomed us to expect it. With long endle falling to the side or to the back, with short, ends fringed or ornamented, swathed elaborately tied simply in a bow, the sash is back again round the waist.
or
But though it sometimes lends itself to freakishuess, the sash, however it may be arranged, seldom interferes with its wearer's comfort. Even when it apparaatly acts as a hobble it does in reality leave room for walking. There are, however, one or two extraordinary customs that are really unsom- fortable and tiresome. One of these is the fashion of cutting the top part of the sleevs all in one with the shoulder of the body. This lus two grave drawbacks-the sleere has to be pieced, as no stuff is wide enough to cut it in its whole length together with the body, and it is generally impossible for the wearer to lift her arm without splitting something. It may be objected that a great many dresses do not allow the arms to be lifted. It is quite true. A great many dresses are very unsom- fortable to wear, and anything that is uncom- fortable tends to be ungraceful and unpleasing.
THE TAILOR-MADE
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER Øik, 1909.
then quite suddenly it became the fashion to have a figure likes Greek statuo, and the warp waist has become, let us hope, as extinct as the mogatherium. It may be the same with the slaughter of tints for their plumage. This, too, any suddenly be put an end to by some unexpected change of fashion. For the present, at any rate, there is no sign of it. But there are tenchling signs that some women are begin- ning to wish to be able to see where they are going. Hats are beginning to turn up in front in a pathetic and unexpected way, and a three- cornered shape is making ita appearance, with 'ona corner placed a little to one side.
--- SHIPPING CHARTER ANNIVER
SARTES.
The oslebration by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company of the seventieth anniversary of the granting of ita charter is to be followed before very long by a similar commemoration on the part of the Pacific Steam Navigation be seventy Company. Next February it will
Arst received a charter. years since that company Its Instory is in some messore a complement of that of the Royal Mail Compang. When this last-mentioned enterprize extended its operatione to the Tathmus of Panama, and established con- nection with the Pacific Ocean, first by arranging mule and canoo transport, and later by helping in the construction of the Params Railway, it became evident that the West Coast of South must be linked up by steamship America communication. It was the Pacific team Navigation Company which put its hands to this work. It sent round to the West Const two steamers, the Chile and the Peru, which laid the foundations of a great business wociation with Chilian, Poravian, and other Pacific porta. These two steamers, by the way.. were the first toat ster passed through the Straits of Magellan. Ever since the Pacific Company have paid special attention to the West Coast trade, to which, as well as to the BOM notable East Coast it today runs steamers. For some years the Pacifle Company carried themails to Australia in conjunction with the Orient Liao, bat it withdrew from this combination some years back, selling the boats employed in the servico to the Royal Mail Packet, Company.
Another steamship company which in the near future will have bsession to celebrate the seventieth annivareary of the granting of its obartor is the Poninsular and Oriental. The foundations of this great line were laid con siderably before 1840, but it was in that year that it was formsily incorporated. The Cousi Line was established in 1840, and will complete seventy years of Atlantic service on July 4 of next your.
OLD-ESTAMISHED LIVES. Oan of the oldest British steamship oxistence is the Bibby organisations in
in 1807, and Line to Rangoon, founded still owned by members of the family of that name. It did not, however, go into steach until 1651. The General Steam Navi- gation Company dates back to the year 1824. in the same year there was founded at Aber. deen the famons Aberdeen Line of laserS. George Thompson and Co., but for a long time it placed reliance upon its splendid clipper ships. The Harrison: Line goes back to the year 1830, and the firm of Messrs. Thomas Wilson and Sens, of Hell, was founded in 1835, The origin of the African Steamship Company is carried back to the year 1832, while the Allan Line, which ran ita firet steamer in 1854, pras- The City Line, tically originated in 1820.
famous Glasgow enterprise, now merged in the Ellerman Linea was founded in 1840, which year also witnessed the advent of Messrs. Honider Brothers inte the shipping trade.
The Archer Line began operations in 1852, and the Castle Mail Packets Company, now merged in the Union-Castie Company, came into being the following year. The Donaldson Line dates back to 1854, and a year later the British Indi Company, one of the largest organisations under the British fing, made its appearance. 1856 Messrs. J. T. Rennie and Sons Aberdeen Line to South Africa came into existence, fellowed ten years later by the Booth Line. The White Star Line was founded in 1869 by the iste Mr. T. II. Ismay, and is consequently 40 years old. Some of the mora progressive steamship organisations are to be found song those established of comparatively recent years, just as some of the older companies to-day take high rank among the flourishing and vigorous
Even in the tailor-made coat and skirt, now more worn than ever, the tailors of the present day put plenty of pockets in their long costs; a woman may have as many pockets as a man pockets large and deep and tempting; but their possession is often orly the torture of Tantalus, As the tailor arges besenches, almost commands that nothing whatever shall be put in them. In towns the tailors are often obeyel, but in the country many women rebel, and claim the manly privilege of going through half-a-dozen pockets search of a lend-pencil, and then remembering that they left it at home in a drawer.
One rosson for the popularity of the tailor-maritime institutions. made is that when people go out nowadays they are nearly always going somewhere definite They do not, like Jane Austen's harvines, sun- ter iu shrubberies. They go ou for a game of golf, or they go out with the gune, or they take. a fishing-rod. When you sauntered in the shrubbery you cams in when it began to rain, you turned back if a path proved maddy, but when you are going somewhere definite you must take what comes or you will never get there, and you must be dressed in such a way as to be able to enjor rain or mad in this England of ours, where, as Charles II. said, you can be. out of doors with pleasure during more hours In the year than in say other country, but in order really to appreciate that pleasure yon ninst not mind a shower of rain,
Coats are said to be going to be short, but that may be only a tailore cry for a complete change. At present, at any rate, they continue to be long, often fantastic in their forms, ent away below the waist, for instance, or with the skirta Suttoned Lack like an old-fashioned soldier's tanie, often opening very low in front, and fastening with only one or two buttons. The black revers which disappeared for a time are reappearing here and there. I saw a very pretty green coat the other day, with black satin revers and a black satin belt which went under the crossed part of the front and was socured with a curions dull gold clasp. The coat was a sort of adaptation of the old Russian blonse, and was worn with a plain short skirt. Skirts are getting shorter than ever, especially for the country, and this is partly due to the desire to keep them out of the mud and partly to a dificulty about the foot sovering.
If either long boots or shoes and gaiters are worn they aro spt to make the ankle look thick and clumay unless a piece of the calf is shown as well in order to give the just proportion. Hence with long boots or gaiters skirts ought to be short enough to show a little way above the ankle. Also when a short skirt shows the whole foot it is well to remember that marrow. pointed toes or high heels are apt to make that look larger. Very broad toes and caLY EQUATO heels look clumsy and are often tiring to walk in, but a shoe that is bread enough across the tread to give the foot free play and that has reasonably shaped extremities is at the same time the neatest looking and the most com. fortable that can be worn with a short skirt
KATS.
To paes upwards to the other extreme, hate continue to be large, and though they are less well covered indeed, sometimes startlingly nude-in, spite of all the efforts of the haptani- tarians, the covering, such as it is, continues to be largely feathers. It would be interesting to Laow whether the killing of birds for the sake of adorament will ever penSE. For years doctors invéighet against distorting corsats, and their discourses seemed to have no effect,
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