1909-04-03 — Page 9

WRIGHT

GREIG'S

PREMIER

SCOTCH WHISKY.

Distilled from the best Barley grown in Scotland.

The quality of this fine Whisky is maintained ABSOLUTELY UNIFORM AT ALL TIMES,

ELGINSHIRE..

WRIGHT & GREIG, Ltd., Dallas Dhu Distillery, Forres,

Head Office-64 WATERLOO STREET, GLASGOW.

By Appointment to H.M. the King.

BOVRIL

is ALL beef-prime beef in a readily digestible form.

That is why BOVRIL is so invigorating a beverage, so strengthening a food, why Cooks find it so useful, why Doctors and Nurses recommend it, why the sensible housewife will have nothing in place of it.

BOVRIL IS ALL BEEF.

A GIFT FROM ENGLAND.

442

PEACH'S TABLE DAMASK

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Tex Cloch

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* Palatable,

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AGENTS-CALDBECK, MACGREGOR & Co., HONGKONG»

KEATING'S POWDER

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BUGS FLEASE MOTHS BEETLES:

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[426-1

London Selling Agents

TEA. INDIGO

FIBRES

BRISTLES

ON SZEDS

HIDES & SKINS

<COL

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{and... Continama i

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Best ports ⠀ for |conelgamento har

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KEYMER, SON

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CO

THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, APRIL 3rd, 1909.

FASHIONS AND FANCIES.

A WORD ON SLEEVES. Are aleoves to be long or short ? That is the quastion. They are very certainly to be long for day dresses and outdoor wear, and, as a mattor of fact, they are almost too simple, fitting the arms very closely and without the slightest width or miness on the shoulder. For a generous figure, built on a noble plan, this nattars nothing. For those of meagre outline it is vory different. In spite of aahion there should be some device adopted for giving apparent width, but the aim of the moment seems to be to make the female figure look quite straight up and down, and rob it of its curves. Those who carry out the present fashion in sleeves should remem- ber that marrow shoulders make the waist look larger than it is; whereas a wide line of shoulder makes it appear smaller.

REMINISCENCE.

We all remember the extremo, when shoulders, plus sleeves, were three-quarters of

n yard "in width. Waists then looked the moment lanks all the longer for the lack microscopio The long line of the sisere of

of fuluess of the shoulder, and this is in- making the arms look as long as a gecillas. The clover dreamaker does away with some of this ugly effect by arranging the drapery of the bodice in folds that over pass the shoulder line and fall over the top of the arms,

THE EVENING SLEEVE. For evening wear there is every variety of ahoice in the length of sleeve. It may be quite short, or it may reach half-way between shoul der and elbow, or be long enough to completely

der is the arm and a third of the hand. This last is soon in the wonderful amethyst gown worn by Miss. Violet Vanbrugh in "Samson" at the Garrick. It closely outlines the arm

and curves over the hand, covering it almost to the knuckles. A fault to be guarded against in all sleeves is tightness which compresses the muscles. Not only is this composition dis agreeable and uncomfortable in itself, but it makes the hands vory red and hot on account of the swollen veink Nobody admires red handa, and hot ones are extremely disagreeable to the

tonch. The real rule for length of sleeve should depend on the beauty or othewise of the arm. Is it necessary to explain that the short sleeve should be reserved for the white and well shaped

the long for the red and bony/

THE LENGTH OF BHIRT.

Fashion Imperiously commands us to wear our skirts most inconveniently long in front, Some of us rebel, and hem them up or them short. Others submit, and trip over less

them at awkward momente with more or

ont

embarrasing consequences. It is infuriating to fing, just at the moment one wishes to make particularly graceful entrance, that one'e skirt has managed to catch in the steel hackle of one's shoe and that the entrance has to be made in a kind of hopping shuffle. The ingenuity of loce skirts in getting them- selves hung up in this fashion is past belief. One cannot admire too much the skill with which actresses manage these long skirts. How they can run across the stage in them is puzzle to znany in the audience, Miss Ellen Terry explains how she acquired the art in her

Reminiscences.

AE UNGRACEFUL LENGTH.

A skirt that is too short in front yut long at the back is very ugly and ungraceful, but there is a happy medium between this and the nitre smart one that lies on the ground an inch or two in front of the feet like a trap to catch them. A lady descending from her motor at the entrance to a theatre the other evening put one small foot upon the foot-board behind a length of skirt so unnecessary. that the second foot stood fair and square.

·The direct apon it.

consequence WHE

that the lady fell into the arms of the stalwart uniformer official who commands the coming and going of vehicles outside this particular theatre. When she recovered herself there was half a yard of her skirt detected from the rest by moans of a long split. It is really possible to be quita graceful in a skirt only long onongh barely to touch the ground in front, and there are fortunately many thousands of well-dressed women who nover rush into these souselog

extremes of Madame la Mode.

THE EVENING. TUNIC; There is no doubt that the long and cling- ing underdress, supplemented by the Princess tunio, will be the fashionable evening, dress of the immediate future. This tunic is long enough to reach this knees or fall below them, and is almost invariably bordered with em- broidery and fringe. The line of bodice is a diep curve in the décolleté this curve being carried up over the top of the artus, The tanic should fall straight from mder the arms and should, therefore, be in transparent material. There are lovely embroidered nets and chiffons expressly for this purpose. The line of waist is plainly visible through these. Sometimes the tanie is open in front, but more often it falls, sier from the chest.

good example is found in a pie maare soft

satin underdress, with a gold net tunic em broidered in gold bngles and ent straight across the front, though falling lower at the back A deep fringe of the ingles borders it. Should this be omsidered too heavy, it could be replaced by one of the silk fringes, which, though fairly light in themselves, have sufficient weight to draw the material of the tunio into graceful lines without dragging it. Even a heavily-knotted fringe has some- times this ugly effect on a very light material.

ERECTNESS OF CARRIAGE.

To hold herself well has now become india. pensable to the woman or gal who wishes to make a creditable figure in the world of stuart meas, Louging is completely out of date.

THE NEWEST SCIENCE,

BY JOHN GRAY, J.E.A.I. (Becretary Anthropometrical Committee of

the British Association).

The last century witnessed the birth and rapid growth of many solances which have exerted an enormous influence on the trade, commerce, and wealth of this and other coun- tries. The solence of heat, by creating the steam engine, has filled the country with factories and covered it with a network of railways. The scienes of electricity has revolu- tionised our methods of transmitting nowe and our methods of lighting. The science of chemistry has given rise to many new mann- factures and products.

Sa great an improvement in the efficiency of production was affected by the practical ap plication of these physical sciences that at the end of the nineteenth century this country was able to support four times the population which it supported at the beginning of the contary

com

THE RUBY MINES OF BURMAH,

mine devours.

about 800 labourers are at work At times, whenever the spare money of the world is A VALLEY OF GEMS.

greater than it is to-day, and the fashion for rabies as the favourite gom comes round again Perhaps it is due to some echo from the in its inevitable oyelo, as many as two thousand Esat, perhaps to some linlf-remembered vision Barmans are needed at the mines, and better conjured up by the story books of one's child workmen could not be had. Mr. Atlay, the hood, but whatever the cause, among gems your company's agent, and Mr. Morgan, the chief ruby is king beyond, all rivals. For a man's or engineer, live on the best of forms with the especially a woman's own self, as Bacon says, people of Mogok. Indeed, it would be extraor there may be some other favourite, the soft, dinary were it not so. Not only does Mogok luminous anors of the almost living pearl, the draw its daily prosperity from the work of the cool, groan tranquillity of the emerald, the mines, but it owes to the company the roads, lurking blue flamo of the sapphire. But for drainngo, water supply, and police that make the royal splendours of this world, for the

it one of the healthiest ant happiest cen- and circumstance of kings, there are but two tren in Burmah. More than this. when. stones, the diamon and the raby, Browning, ever, as frequently happens, the overencroa subtle as ever, caught the feminine implication ching jaws of the Taroktan of the sapphire as an adornment for King Saul, a house or a street of housos, far better quarters and battressed it was a masculino turn. Yet are always provided for the evicted families at even na "lordly male-sapphires" they seem the other end of the town. Old Mogok itself. unequal to more than the weaker side of the is a doomed place, Half the bazaar has been great Jew's character. jewel of the man of action, the climax of colour in a few months, and then the rest of the town Rabies remain the enten away already. The main street will follow and costlinese in every age, and it is onrions to and the polo ground will follow through the Laylon, as big as a man's palm, down to the nery of the washing shed. For there are rubies think that from the legendary Great Ruby of over-revolving cylinders and groaning machi

famous rabies of the world came from a small during the present temporary slackness of

14,000 stone that Boucheron exhibited at overywhere." Shepherd's-bash last year, every one of the The price of the stones has not been roduood valley tnoked away among the foothills that demand. As surely as anything can be pre- act as sentinels to the long dividing ranges disted in this world, the cruze for ruthies will between Burmah and Chins. Mogok-or, as return again, and Buenal: is making itself the real name seems to have been, Mokop-is ready for that day. for beyond Mandalay, and of all the hundreds quantity of the rabies noem aastared, and the The quality and this of thousands of soarrying sightseers that pelt long grass-coated workmen, crowned with of of creuiar hats, the work all night long steadily journey to this historic field, wherein alone of under the sizzling electric lamps among the all her many jewel fields Nature has strewn her waste jungles of Upper Bermah are as certain richiest treasure. Yet the journey itself, were of permanent employment as any men it the there no rubies to see at its alo

alose, would be well world. For if you want good rubies, to Mogok worth the trouble

you and steady over the broad Irrawaddy all our way: the long cuttings

must go when, and only when, the vanity THHOUGH THE JUNGLE,

and pomps of this world are ended will the North from Mandalay the Pale star hangs low jungle and the karela let itself once more over Bat the navigation of the frat forty miles is one Taroktan or the machinery sheds of Shwebon. and amphitheatres of of the most complicated things that ever puzzled tha, a few hundred yards away, to the west, waterman. Only in the centre of the deepestBy PERCIVAL LANDON, in the Daily channel is there water enough oven for our little fat from of a launch, and that charinal writhes

Telegraph.

Our thinkers and workers were so pletely absorbed in the creation of this great increase of wealth that they had little attention. namely, the man himself. But towards the end to give to the chief factor in its production of the century it began to be perceived that the vast development of industry which the physical sciences had affected was crowding the majority of the people into towns where a very large proportion of them lived in congested districts under conditions which there is strong son for believing are leading to a rapid deterioration

of the race.

INCREASING MAN'S EFFICIENCY. A now science was wanted which would do for man what the physical sciences had done for the production of wealth-namely, main- tain and increase his effloiency and thereby

of life.

exact science of

increase his enjoyment hic accounts for the

The spirit of inquiry, origin of most sciences, had already started a

man, about the middle of the last century. The object of this science, at first, was not utilitarian, but merely to discover the affinities and origin of the various race of mankind. An exact science of man must be based on act observation or measurement of his physical characteristics, and this science of Man we call anthropometry. Anthropometry may be regarded as a sub-division of the wider science of anthropology

anthropometric bervations were started simultaneously about 1842 by an Englishman, John Beddoe, and a Swede, Andreas Retzius.

Beddoe, happily still alive, being, in his youth, fond of reading books of travel, was struck with

the contradictions in the statements of travellers describing the hair and eye colours of the races they came in contact with

races

This led the young scientist to draw up scheme for making such observations, and he noted the colour or pigmentation characteristics of a large number of people in his nativa county of Hereford Dr. Beddoe has devoted a great part of his long and active life to the observa tion of the pigmentation characteristics of the British Isles, and has published maps showing their distribution.

THE HAIR COLOUR MAR

of Good Tailoring- England is the Home

London the Fashion Centre of the World.

an from side to side of the river with at ingenuity that seems almost infernal. This would be of less moment if the fairway, however. devions it might be, that has been chosen by this Irrawaddy could be expected to remain o for more than a few hours together Sometimes even a night will change the channel. The stream will leave its old path and soeur itself new passage through hitherto neglected shallows without warning and apparently without reason. The newly, excavated sand driven to find a new new foothold, silts up heavily in the old channel, over which the bobbing pilot-bamboos, so useful yesterday, now hang out false signals like JOHN J. M. BULT, wreckers beacons, and the new quicksands find their prey sooner of later.

The last touch of cultivation vanishes as the river closes together. The bank rise steadily, covered with densely-matted jungle, and only on some promontory low the spire of a temple jet upwards in a golden tipped flame of white. Aboat a hundred miles up tron Thaleithyen in rechod, and the long sixty-mils journey through the jangle and up the curving green flanks of and the enterprise of a local firm has placed the foothills begins. The road is a upon it a few motor-brakes, which cover the dis- tance daily in seven or eight hours-barring accidents. At last, just as darkness is beginning to fall, the yellow lights of Mogok appear ahead, the slanting line of electric ares, lighting the trolley-way up from the Taroktor mine standing. topazes. mclearly out among them like pearls among

In the course of, time his work began to be appreciated by Continental scientista, and in 1886 Virchow completed a pigmentation survey of the whole of the school children of Germany. followed soon by similar surveys carried out in Austria, Switzerland, and Bel- gium; quite recently I have completed a pig mentation survey of the whole of the soliool

This

was

children of Scotland,

Now, what do we learn by looking at a map of Europe showing the distribution of the heir

colours of its inhabitants !

Wo observe at once that the inhabitants of North Germany, Denmark, and Scandinavis have the largest percentage of fair hair of any of the peoples of Europe. In Schleswig Holstein over 80 per cent, of the school children

have fair hair.

The lanir colour becomes gradually darker as we pass from the north to the south of Europe, dark as in middle Europe. except in Belgium, where the hair colour is se

The hair colour of the British Isles is also much darker than that of the Teutonic countries of the same latitude,

FAIREST RACE ON EARTH... We, however, trid that in the eastern counties of England and Scotland and in other districts of Britain where the Anglo-Saxon and Viking races are known to have settled the hair colour is much lighter than in the west of England and Scotland

Here, then, we have evidace of the persist ency of hair colour as a characteristic of race, And we have other evidence; the Roman anthors, a fair race, and to-day, 2,000 years after they for instance, described the North Geramus as

are still the fairest race on earth.

All day and all night the work goes on. There till five in the afternoon, the other following are two shifts, one from seven in the morning on till three at. The "byon," or ruby-bearing earth, stretches almost everywhere along the Mogok Valley, and wherever this rich oligold crumbling clay is found rubies are found Yet a atranger might hant among the for weeks and seen nover s

crimson. It whore the offer is often made to the visitor that he may keep ever yet been able to take advantage. Yet any raby he sees, an offer of which no one has there the

are, and after the iron trolleys have been hauled up to the washing. sheds and their sticky bardan rotated, and filtered and washed and stirred and cleaned and distri bated, there is no mistaking the rich glow of the rubies that lie hare and there among the heaps of dark shingle upon the slates of the sorting

is a standing jest at the off of

shed.

robies

Besides the pure ruby, spinel or balas rubies are found in large quantities at Mogok. Indeed. wherevor the true ruby is found, its splendid but bastard brother, the spinel, is sure to ip close beside it. Both are crystals of aluminu,

orop

but the crystals are of different shapes, and while the true raby is pure corundum only, the Britain has, in historical times, and probably spinel raby has also a minute admixture of before, been the meeting place of many streams magnesia, which lessens te huren teessa of emigration from surrounding countries. Owing fifth, and, incidentally, lessens also i pt inby to the great variety of pigmentation among value by ninety-nine-hundredths. Exce uga surrounding peoples, and the persistence of these few rare cases the practised eye can disti unish hair colours, each immigrant race bears to day at a glance between the two buts small u in its hair the mark of its origin.

differ

endurance,

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Cash Tallor.

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PRICES are

Hallormes: Frock Cost and Van from 62/ From Sul (Silk-based)

84/ 20/-

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A choice of Twoods, Flannels, Cheviots and Serges may be had. Kindly state which required—and the colour-when writing for patterns. Self-memurement forms on application.” As a register is kept of all Customers" menures, an accurate it in guaranteed.

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30 years. It retains fis reputation for CONSUMPTION, OBSTINATE COUGHS, COLDS, DISEASES OF THE CHIST, Lungs, and BRONCHIAL TUBES.

Everybody is AVATO that races like the fair of really magnificent spinels exist-casily first Tentons and the dark Spaniards or Italions among them being the great Agincourt ruby" in the crown of England-which it is extremely from each other immensely in mental difficult to identify without the aid of the characteristics.co, pertinacity, and conscien- unerring test of the dichroiscope, mehr contre and applies of car booster te tiousness of the Toutoule reces as contracted with the volatility, emotionalism, and aesthetic fesling of the southera races, have become proverbial Anthropologists have lately been accumulating evidence more or less associated with physical characters such as hair colour, among the mixed descendants resulting from the crossing of the fair and dark races.

THE BRITISH BLEND.

All the great raibes of the world have come from the Mogok valleys, and it is curious to think of the adventures through which these crimson beauties have already passed, and through which they are destined yet to pass, from their untroubled bed of clay among the desorted mountains and jungles of Burmah to their ultimate fate, which can hardly be other than destruction by fire or their loss at sea. Little else can harm a ruby so hard of heart is it, and even a furtive re-cutting by a thief is never one that roba the gem of much weight. For the hopeful, generous minday and far beyond the ment

Food almost geometric proportion in which a

by increases in value according to its weight is one of the most amazing things about the

The British Empire has been built up by a happy blend of the fair and dark races. Any thing which seriously distarts the proportion of each race in the blend will change the balance of the national character; presumably for the worse as none of the constituent races have over succeeded in building an Empire such as onrs.

The importance of this and the value of gem. A fine diamond of one camat may be worth The adoption of the low bodice line for ordinary anthropometry in its practical application to the 20 or so a rube a little more than twice as day wear, with filling in of transparant chiffon it is stated that recent observations on the control of social evolution, will be realised when

shoulders be held well back

The Directoire style put it entirely out of court,

wet or ince, imperatively demands that the pigmentation of large towns have shown that

in But while a diamond of ten, carats in

THE CORSIZIERE OF THE HOUR.

The up-to-date exrvettere understands this

congested slum districts, such as Southwark

Tho

thai from time immemorial. The Burmans still

A WONDERFUL DISCOVERY. Thisisthesge of research and expertinent, when all nature,so to speak, by the scientiae Indeed made giant strides during the past century, and among the wby no meaus Least Important.... discoveries in medicine comes that of Therapión, particulars of which will be found in another

·Polama,. This preparation la angnestiorably one of the most genuine and reliable Patent Medicines everintroduced, and has, we understand, been used In the Continental Hospitals by Ricörð, Rostan, Jobert, Velpean, Maisonneuve, the well-known Chessalomas, and indeed by all those who are regarded as authorities in such matters, including the celebrated Lallemand, and Roux, by whom fi - was sonte tline since uniformly adopted, and that It is worthy the attention of those whorsquire such

•■ remedy we think there is no doubt.. From the time of Aristotle downwards, apatentagent in the

· removal of these diseases liss (like the famed pat- losopher's stone) been theob ret of search of some

-power...if such could ever have been discovered-of tranamiuting the baser mitsin into goid is purely the discovery of a remedy so potent as to replenish the falling energies of the confirmed rest in the one case, and in the other so effectually, speedily and safely to expel from the system without the ald, or even the knowledge, of a second party,the poisons of acquired or inherited disease innil their protean formá as to ledvenstelat or trace behind. - Buch is The New French Remedy Therapiou,which: my certainly rauk with, if not take precedence of, many of thediscoveries of our day, about which no little ostentation and noise have been made, has been created for til medicine wherever intro- andtheextensive and ever-increasing demand that

duced appears to prove that it is destined to cast. foto oblivion all those questionable remedies that "Theraping-diay be obtained in England, direct from the proprietor, and of the principel Chemists. and Merchants throughout the Colordes, India China, Japan, &c, not even excluding auctí remote Bistricians Central Africs, the Fiji Islands, Bl. Helens, Atc.—DiammifitidsAdvwylie KucuntEY Bold by all Principal Chemists "127

Forhaps, £800, a perfect ruby of the weight may be worth anything up to 350,000f; asked by Masare. Boucherons for the unique stone at the Franco-British Exhibition, the poresntage of the fair-haired is vary. The tabiferous clay at Mogok is worked to a much smaller than in country districts much deeper level, but in much the same way well, ond while giving her customers splehown that the hair colour of the population of as it has been worked by the local prospectors were formerly the sole reliance of medical mes.

of Scotland has pigmentation survey width of chest, she makes their corsets very Glasgow is very much darker than that of the continue their diggings and washings in the narrow in the back, so as to force erectness of earringe upon their clienta For similar reasons rest of

Beotland It follows that modern

dern industrialism, with adjacent valleys, and often proceed in finding the new corsets are out high at the back, but rather low in front, following the échancrare of its concomitant progressive urbanisation of the good stones. But the total amount of such the gown. The robe-coreet is the ideal for these population is more or less rapidly changing the work is small compared with the highly-organised different slinging gowns. The skirt can be divided or national character, is eliminating that Tontonis labone at Mogok itself, Hore, at four

And otherwise, and as it is fastened on to the edge element, with its fine charseteristics of endur.mines-Taroktan, Sliwebonths, Redhill,”

Fadinsho modern tools and machinery and which of the corset, it does not make for lumpiness Búce, conscientiousness, and enterprise, round the waist or immediately below it as the has contributed so much to Britain's greatness systornatised working result in the propor examination of vast amount of byan every petticoat with strings or buttons invariably dosa. in the Fund of modern social evolution is the day at Taroktan mine alone about fourteen This robe-corset in the invention of English This trend lady, and has had not only a great success in the discovery of the newest soience in the hands of hundred tons of the gravel are chily United States, but has made a distinct sensation soientists with inadequate fends and insufficient washed during period of high pressure, and Faris. The Revue Moderne admits with assistans to carry out observations on a grand the results of this activity are visible every

where mail surprise that an Englishwoman has scalex

Nowhere, perhaps, even in the lotus produced a triumphant success, and, eclipsed all It gives soins ides of the valuable results to land of Burmah is there such evidence of the efforts of Frenchwomen in this direction, he expected from a national anthropometric prosperity as at Mogok, and the Burmah X, and Z. in the Globe.

sarvey carried out at regular intervals obtaining all the labour it requires. Just now Ruby Mines Company has no difficulty in Government department.

·

SAVARESSES SANDAL CAPSULES

Effienciosis because absolutely purs Cagliah Oặt Hot made of gelatine.

Full directions - All Chelista: insist on SAVARESSES

81

122-2-6