1909-03-06 — Page 9

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FASHIONS AND FANCIES,

SOME COMING CHANGES.

THE DESTISED SHOULDER, Everything that can be done to lessen the width of the shoulder is resorted to on the most up-to-date gowns. The dross must fit absolutely plainly, and the sleeve should bo skin-tight. This is very far from becoming to most people, and those who have the misfortune to possess shoulders at once sloping and narrow should adopt some other style. In one of the smartest walking costumes of the senson B broad band of dark braid, starting at either side of the coat on the chest is carried straight back to the armis, a similar hand appearing like a continnation of it on the sleeves, a couple of inches below the shoulder. This accentuates

THE NEW PLAY,

AN ENGLISHMAN'S HOME" All three acts of the play which has created such a sensation in England recently are laid in the home of a typical middle-class family named Brown, on the Essex const. The three prin- cipal characters in the first act sire:

Mr. Brown: The fussy head of the family interested in sport and distrustful of 'all things military

Paul Robinson: A young Volunteer. Geoffrey Emith Avory ordinary young man

who takes no interest in Volunteering The keynoto to the play is given in the fol. lowing extract from the dialogue

Brown: I consider it [Volunteering] has a militarisin-a condition of slavery which our tendency to convert the people of England to

Mr. H. Wontner play the real Briton is likely to forget his actiu,.

Any one would realise this who knows what

TRUTH OF THE STAGE, But apart froth this most gross and inartistic straiu upon the truth of things, if what truth The main point for the theatre owner is of understanding wo may have for thein, Anjar that the day has crowded his house be- du Maurier's play has done this: It has achieved yond, I ampposo all record, but the still anvil of Mr. Bernard Shaw, and all his sparks that the play is compelling the attention of all what the critical hammer and the theatrical more important point for the public is and tire and all those of his satellities, and all who read newspapers, besides those who frequent. power of critician have not hitherto succeeded in theatres. to tear away the musk which has so long palsied treatment is ever coloned, all or most of the Accomplishing daring all these years-namely, It has been alleged by some that the author's our stage, the mask of unreality and stage characters being exigerated. That must puppet convention. For observe. His hero, it remain a matter of opinion. there be one which is likewise an innovation-results of a successful invasion and what thea But as to the does not, as all our stage heroes have done, euses, the descriptions in the play are but us knock down for and foreigners with the rosewater is to usli manure. CELKE of an ordinary mortal flicking off poppy hands with a stick. Every woman the Spaniards underwent when their country

meets does not immediately love, and

was overrun prior to end during the Peninsular He is not the silly dear boy" who, war med all readers of the stories toll in Zola's gets into a thousand scrapes, posturing, posing Break Up" (La Debacle). My friend for sane forty-five years, Colonel Lonsdals Hale, honour, the ideal type of manhood, the caloular girds against the Territorial Forces scheme in of success that we enjoy on the stage, but s one of your contemporaries on the ground that is his unique virtne; the chap one meets any main insaillolently trained on the sudden out- valgar idler whose knowledge of football records, the Territorial Forces are, and umst ever, re Saturday afternoon at club nintelios, easing bis, break of war. teles and vocabulary at the expenses of the Instead of a marionette show, the play gives as professional gentlemen who play for him. what all these yours weave waited for--the truth the real, fee of Mary Aus and her

sporting "brothers,

ndora kin.

the narrowness and plainness of the shoulder country, up tonów, kas escaped, and I-trast it į taking off his cap to the gallery, the son of

whose line of demarcation from the arms.is now scrupulously hidden by the smurt woman

DRAPED SKILTS ONCE MORE...

When the Directoire skirt first came in. with the ruoks in front, and, later, with the sides lightly knotted in front beneath the centre

suel, it was not diffealt to foresee the return the draped skirt. The enormous bunches of material worn in the eighties are not likely to revive just yet, but panniers are back with us, and some of the most, up-to-date models are draped in a very eccentric series of ways. For instance, one, which is perfectly straight and close in front, on & Princess gown, is caught up at the back to a point about oight inches abere the knee line. Another has a kind of pelisse which is gathered into a buckle a few inches below the waist in front.

FLIRTATIONS WITH FULNESS, In fact, the chief idea of the latest skirts sen to be to lover between fulness and plai now in some way or other. The board Plantron from bodice to hear both back and front is popular, and is sometimes arranged in satin or milk overs fall under-dress of chifezi, which only shows at either side. An evening alress of recent composition has a narrowing Rkeath of satin for skirt: but round this is abundantly draped (though tightly tied in a shawl of this crêpe. The shawl tonehes the waist-live on the left side, thence drooping to the right.

ANOMALIES OF OUTLINE,

The same coquettish dealing with an idea is risible in the way trains are arranged. They must, of coarse, be very long and marrow; overy: thing about us except our eyes and our hats have to be that just now. But the old-fashioned idea that a train lay on the ground behind one is quite exploded. To be really smart, your train should curl twice round your feet, and end at right angles to your body. The smartest woman are those who manage to keep it so it the forest movements. This method is warm to the fest, but very difficult to learn.

WHERE FRANCE FAILS,

always will.

your country? What about patriotism?

Pani: But do you call it slavery to defend Brown: There are other ways of showing patriotism, Paal.

should have seen me on Mafcking-night. I Geoff: I should think those was indood! You sang nls Britannia !" on top of the fountain in Trafalgar aquare-theu fell into the water. and kissed the policeman who pulled me out.

Brown: I am thankful to say there is BO lack of patriotism. The heart of the nation is Hand, as any foreign Power will find to its cost that venturas to doubt it. As to defending the country the conatry is in no denger of attack. The British Fleet, we are sasured, is strong enough to render invasion impossible except from a raid, and if the raiders-vell, or-raided, they would, I am sure, meet with a most un- comfortable reception,

Pan: There is not an Englishman who wonkin't at enco fly to arms, and not a man would escape tomer-

Gooff: To tell the tale,

In the second set the invaders are in possession of the house, and Sergeant Brinel is making a report to Captain Prince Yoland regarding the experiences of a spying expedition into the neighbouring town of Brentwood.

į Bergt: On the way back we were overtaken by two men on bicycles in uniform. We heard them coming. They wore scouts.

SATIKE-THE NEW THING.

Truth is not uncommonly bewildering. Iu An Englisur's Home" it is overpowering The old father who thinks of nothing but diabolo, the vulgar football son, the Emerick" son, the daughter who can chatter about nothing save their brother's shop," zid ennot even bandage a simple wound, the long youth who thinks in khaki and gets generally considered a "fock"; the abysmal insularity, self-com- plucency, vacuous garrulity of this family-are these the fearents of mecessful drman? Yet they are. And they are so beanse the anthor has a pretty kanck of presenting thou truthfully to us through the subtle medium of genuine satire. Satire That is the now thing he has given us. And as satire only a means to an end, a medium, an instrument, but only forcible, and convincing when founded on truth, she has given us truth, too Instead of the tomfool Capt: How did you know ?.

melodrama, the work-solding play of British, Sergt They were talking loudly to each Union Jack herois, we have true men and other we could hear them coming.

women, truth as the basis. triath as the moral of, Send this report to the

Capt. (handing report to telephone orderly: the play-tratl as its compolling motif. Instead of the hero taking off his hat to us, we take off commandant. Regiment. (To himself): Now who was he Instead of speuding a comfortable evening Orderly Lieutenant Felber, 7th Roserveurs to the play, to the author. and to the players. (Looks at notebook). Ah-Felleg, 7th Reserve patting ourselves on the back, we spend at Logiment, employed as head waiter, Royal uncomfortable one, questioning, thinking, think Hotel. Brentwood.

ing. Instead of sitting in the stalls like Teddy bears at a children's party while the stage sings Rule Britmia," we it is whe quit the theatre singing of thoses and of Eughind's freedom;- not tired, thirsting for a brandy-and-soda before retiring to rest, and forgotting all about it, but alert, ken, and combative, wanting to talk anl to think--just fancy, to think about the plas

roared with laughter.

The hit was a palpable one, and the audience

Then came one of the most thrilling situations in the whole play, and the audience sat spelt bound as the momentoas lesson was brought house to them. The invaders have left the house, and Paul, covered with mud and almost dropping from fatigue and hunger, dashes into the roumant ourselves and the little island: after I left you two or three of them.

Paul (speaking of the enemy). I saw them Then I met some more. They were all alike, ad they were everywhere. I turned up lots of roads there they were again. And I went on Volunteers knew it. They knew they'd landed to Frentwood, where I found they the English and were coming. Every one was rushing boat, talking and shouting, and I rode about to flad Mouse one who would do something. They and I couldn't find any one to tell me what to were all rushing about, talking and shouting, do and where to go.

There is one lopartment wherein France fails to do herself justice as regards clothes. That is her fashion plates In England some kind of semblanco to the unus figure is required, before we can swallow theuccentric deorces of fashion as presopted by the filustrated papers. We also ask that the faces, however doll-like, shall not alarm us, and that the attitudes shall show us how the gowns will look in fairly probable contingencies Fruce does not seem to mind any of these thinge If ono aut a lady in real life who looked like many of the French fashion sketches, one would be serionsly frightened and incredulous.

They seem to be sketched for publication while undergoing horrible émotional

(Paul finally sits down at the table and sots) crises. Instead of "Chie de fiv'o'clock en drap Paul: They only shout and sing. (Standing

Maggie: Paul, don't! Oh, don't vert argenté," or some such inscription, one would expect to see underneath, She united. As you all med? Don't any of you blindly from the rock" or, "He gazed at the understand? How can you stand here and upparition speechlessly." Impressionism, Tunis

laugh and joke in the same old rotten way? riot across the Channel, even in drawings wher country is coming down like

Don't you rusline.it yet-thut the whole damned detail is an important point.

house of cards, and that you, and thousands like you. are saying it's not your business, and as long as it doesn't interfere with you. let it go on? And others are just the same, shouting and winging silly music-ball songs, and thinking they're just go ing to see some fun. Fun-oh, my God!

THE FOLERO AGAIN.

A few years ago baleros were so universal that oues imagination balked at the idea of a dress male any other way. It did not seem that there was any other way. Then this style died the violent death which awaits all overdous fashions, and carried away with it the Eton coat.

Both these are returning now. The boleró, worn over a very close-fitting Directoire or Princess dress,

relieves the candour of its outlines without inter-

THE NEW DRAMATIC POWKE, the power which foreigu dramatists such as Quita suddenly on stage has a new power- Bernstein, Brieus, Gorki, Hauptmenu, Eshe- guray; Wiedek nl, etc., have long used with pose. The cobweb of our stage hus vanailed. At tremendous fores of satire and truth and pur- last we have a melodrama of real people At last we have a play pointing and enforcing a rent lesson At last we have one stage used as a a thing of reality, a power which is really a informative, as educativo, anabling platform. power. And it cannot go buck now. One of the greatest elogs on our literary and dramatic work lighting influence which wrapped the stage in hitherto has been this very absence of it, that an artificial voneer of unity and kept the plays with purpose, the plays dealing

with the things, with the problems and battles ofour fixes. Awa rom it, and left the jutunity of frustr untouched. But it has all changed now. Now that managers, writore, and the publio luve seen what a power the stage can possess, what posi bilities there are in plays which are fundamental as opposed to the purely elemental, what a pulpit the stage might be, the good work begun for English drama will go on, must now go on. antrammelled n advance For the uational art. this is great thing It nuns that it will heave-forth be possible for a writer having some thing definite to my about a subject of interest and importance to say and get it siil. It means that we shall get new you with new idea writing for us, a new spirit and a new inspira tion; for with the demand will scene the supply. In time, perhaps, even politics will be treated on our stage, and we shall no longer be the but of the intellectual world as the people who of shouts of the enemy coming closer,

refused Monna Vanna and a Grinville Brosa stalks to the window. Bullets strike The success of the play is not a little dae to this Shouting "Curse the Cure then all", Barker's "Waste."All this is very cheerful.

"

The final scene is one of the strongest in the play. The second act onded with an unsuccess ful attempt by the local Volunteers to put the Brown villa in a state of defence. But every one bungled. No one knew his business, and rupting its chome. It also gives opportunity for fatally the retreat was sounded. But old Brown, very beautiful enybroidery, and thereby for charmered to leave his home. ing plans of colour, such as England has beau

The third act soes him standing by the fire- growing to appreciate in the last few years. us in his house smid a clatter of bricks, lath. Cut short a couple of inches above the waist, and and, plaster. There is the sound of B often made with very wide armholes, the bolero

whistling shell, and the distant ham is likely to fide us over towards the change which a good many people are confidently expecting in the prevailing mode.

LONGITUDE AND LATITUDE.

Longitude is all-important. Xantippe says the modern woman would cheerfully submit to the mek just now, if it would lengthen her arms and legs and fingers, and, of course, her neck, A five-inch collar with a very fat rufe ut the top on which the beat rests us on a charger, is the ideal. Shoes must be very long and pointed also, even though the skirt mast. rest two or three inches on the ground in front and at the xide, and is before silly cat into two points, one The plum shoulders. men- tioned above are a principal factor in pro ducing the desirel impression, added to the way of arranging the train Xantippe thinks the fashionable woman must spend giddy hours whirling before hot glass, to get the proper swirl of the skirts round her feet,

HATS OF FUR AND YEATHER,

aru

The marabout helmets which divide the honours with the wild creations that took their comparatively modest origin in The Merry Widow hat, do not, of course, need much trimming. Three or four twelve-inch pheasant's-tail feathers, horizontally arranged ut one side, quite enough; or a long, fat ostrich feather, standing up as straight as wandering breezes will permit, is considered sufficient. The nearer the eye brows it begins, and the nearer Heaven it ends. the wasrter will it be. Like the shoulders, the forehead is a festure to be modestly deprecated in the headgear of to- day. The hat should cover one whole side of it, or begin low, down on it, or shade it undor a cavernous onrve, as who should say: "I know I have a forehead but it doesn't mean anything, I assure you

SOME RALIENT POINTS,

the brickwork outside, and one or two at intervals whire through the open window and strike somewhere inside. Brown suddenly picks up the rifle and bandolier of a dead soldier, and slowly and clumsily loads it. Then he gues to the window.

very revelationi. It is the secret of the unexpected success of "The Third Floor: Back It is the secret of the French und German stage. It is the gobe-manche in our national dramatic cobweb which Bajor du Maurier'e broom has swept away.

He stands upright and fires, exposing himself fully before the window, watching the reinit of It makes one almost ask whether it will not

PLAYS OF THE FUTURE. his shot. Another bullet hits the window sill, soon be possible to see Mrs. Warren's Profes Brown, who has been acting like a man in a sion" on our stage-Mr. Sly's finest dramatic dreun, seems suddenly to wake up. He becomes work. Good times should certainly bo ahead for from instinct a fighting man. He takes over. enterprising and discerning managers. What oronches in the left corner of the window, takes our dramaso conspicuously lacknis, psychology. aim, and fires again, and this time he gives a will which is, of course, the essential basis of all dra- shout of triumph. His ballet has found a billet.matie illusion. It is the illusion of illusion Two bearded infantrymon leep into the soc. which is so tiresome on on stage. But it is Brown promptly fells one of them to the ground, psychology which Miss Vests Tilley uses in her but the other overpowers him and he is made a soldier songs with such effect. It is prisoner.

which makes some of our music-hall artistes psychology You are a civilian," says the foreign captain su deservedly rich and popular, it is the to Brown, simply, while the sharp intake of destruction of it which rains breath in the auditorium shows the interest in an English adaptation of a powerful foreign. the scene.

"You hare been fighting. You must pay the is because the charioters are drawn as puppets play Why so many of our plays fail penalty. You must be shot"-and that is the rather than as people; they d not live, they end of Brown.

The curtain which succeeds, the arrival of a music all should have so much more latitude are like the Sicilian marionettes. Why the party of bluajackets, and the captain's despairing than the legitimate stage has always been one exclamation of "By God! They've turned our flank" fell and a tempestuous hurricane of elixir of the halls.

of our national absurdities. Drink is the applause.

But let anyone write a manager produce it? Yet it might solve the play on that serious question, and would any licensing problem in an evening.

10

mary

In the lobby afterwards men and women could be heard excitedly discussing the play, so wrap ped up in it that for several minutes many of In short. Major du Maurier has cleaned and them had no thought of supper, cabs, or home.

ITS DRAMATIC VALUE.

Englishman's Home" is discussed by Mr. Austin The dramatic vaine of the new play "An Harrison in the following article contributed to the Daily Mail:

Major Guy du Maurier-forsuoli Patriot's"

reformed our stage. Ho has swept away the tarradiddle of convention and the fee-faw-fum Boer war failed to drive home All English- of jejune, fulse melodramatics. What even the man's Home" may yet accomplish. That is a notable, a dramatiu achievement. Now we need one or two more such revolutionary Bean- marchais to restore our stage to its own agate,

THE OPINIONS OF FIELD-MARSHAL AIR EVELYN WOOD, V.C. Englishman's Home," or "Woe to the Vanqui You ask me for my opinion on the play, "An except to say this: that the author was true to have attracted so many auditors, but would have The latter namo would probably not art, to himself and the lesson he intendel to been appropriate. enforce, whereas the producers of his work have I have just returned from Wyndham's not been; and that in the interests of everybody Theatre. Personally, I think the play is very true ond ng will be restored the ending which as little considered by the fortunate lessen of concerned it is earnestly to be hoped that the clever, but my opinion on that point will be 2011 and goada as, and not, as at present, which the theatre as will that of the adverse critic who leaves us smug and complacent while the pipes considered the play a second-rate melodrama, play the uational strains of "uddling through." only it for the country. No one who has seen

In fact, the salient points towards which thee is admitted to be has done more than a woman is striving who centres her heart in the Home";- not only has be blown a great bowb very patriotic thing in "An EnglishmanTM Rue de la Fuix are: Pounds of hair, clouds of into the national life, but a gigantia cobweb off hat, no forohoed, hall one ear; no body arms the English stage. With the merits of his play like tree-branches, fingers like daffodil-leaves; as sich 1 am not immediately concerned here, shed." as little hip sa posible, above a narrowing column of nothingness; inches of narrow toe, in a pool of embroidery and frill. For cold wea ther, three kinds of far in overlapping wathes, muffa large suongh to give a dinner party in, and fur neckleta with four-foot ends-those latice to be won invariably down the back one at least, if not beth. A mad world my masters!"-X AND Z. in The Globe.

ONLY A FRAMEWORK. Lonsdale Hale know more details about the officer I have ever met. Franco-Prussian war of 18/0-1 than any other of what must seen when trained soldiers meet His views, therefore,

half-trained men are incontrovertible. On the other hand, the framework of the Territorial' Foress scheme is well adapted for dealing Inter with universal training, and antil the nation necepts such means of defence organisers must be content with what their masters, the demo- cravy, are willing to accept.

I want the whole of the active population all Just 104 years ago Mr. Pitt speaking in the House of Commons on national defene, said: to be arranged beforehand, tenders appointed, companies formed, and that no, man should be allowed to run about in confusion erging out, Oh that I could be anyway useful to y country!" Englund likes to set on it, will opriate the The Territorial Forena agheme, when Young inconvenioness fornfeld by Mr Pitt.

In a long his I have known only two or three Ministers who led the nation; most show their ability by saying to-slay what they think a unjevity of the electomie will want in a short tin

I believe nulversal service, is cuning, but Lot next week, so I feel grateful to the gifte author. Major du aurier, and the lessee of Wyndham's Theatre. The Territorid Forces will certainly gain by the play.

My Hrm hope is the the interest in it may continus sufficiently long to offook some porte- nent result,

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