1908-12-25 — Page 9

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THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 25TH, 1908.

SK THE ORIGIN OF OPTUM.

- The oplam-pipe and the móda, of zmoking st present in use in China are very different from the pipe and smoking of tobacco used there

FASHIONS AND FANCIES.

A PRINCESS'S GOWNS.

SHIP DESIGNING.

SIE W. WHITE ON MODERN METHODS.

Bir William H. White the British aral

Sir Ray Lankerter writes in the Daily Telegraphs That Europe is the original home or elsewhere. I investigated the matter myself A bright Humination was thrown on the of the opfum poppy, and not Asia, în även more } twenty years ago in an opium-den near the modes of to-day and to-morrow by the exhibition constructor of a notablo ora, delivered an inter- | contrwilétory of our bettled traditions and belief London Docks, under the instruction of a polite of Paquin models in Dover-atreet. These intesting address at the first ordinary meetings of

Chinaman. The spiam pipe has a very narrow

boat ene sixth of an inch wide. The pre Mime. Paquin to the Crown Princesa for her the rise and progress of education in naval pared opium, in a condition room within, selection. It may be supposed that the very top architecture, in which he himself has hand no is meared on the walls of the cavity with spin, mode of fashion was struck in thess dresses, sinal share. He alluded to the somewhat narrow and the pipe held to a lighted lamp, The

And in addition lines an which constraction was formerly

the East. Yet it is the fact that opium, like | cavity, a tobacco, came to the Far East from Europe. The opium poppy does not grow wild in Asia; it is a cultivated variety of a Mediterranean poppy, the Papaver setigerum, which has

pale purple flower, and

faze drawn in the pipe cases the opium to coats, hats, furs, sashes, &o.

inhales has to be procured by applying

in ship design a century ago due to mon ancon-

Was canvassa frizzle and give out smoke, but it does not "light" there was the idiosynorasy of this famous house conducted, until the Inception of the moverient In the designing and exeontion of the various in favour of better education for British ship- Is ago, by man from the Levant to Asia, sai continue to burn. Each whitt which the chiffons. The young Princess is tall, fair, and builders and the adoption of scientifle methods

have true poppies of four species which pe to the lamp. The smoke is tasteless, and gracefully slender, She carries herself well, and this is equally important with figures to the tocess of a gown. Her favourite colour isted with the industry, and not welcome to

Consequently many of the gowns chosen were in its work at Fortsmouth in January, 1811, under reen, so becoming to a fair complexion; hat shipbuilders of the older school. Fortunately, her young husband's pet colour is pale blue and the first Bohool of Naval Architectura began opposition from various quarters was overente, one or other of these tinte. But there were also the direction of Dr. Inman, distinguished. other colours, in addition to white and black.

graduate of the University of Cambridge:

grow wild in England, all with splendid scarlet or orimsoni petala. easily distinguished from one another by the shape of the soodboxes, or cap. surface of the seed capsule of one of those poppies sules, which they form If you scratch the a milky julse appears. It is this which is collecto from the capenzion of the much larger opium-poppy in India and China, and when dried forms a hard brown cake, which is called "opium. It consists of resinous matter, in which is contained a emall quantity of the invaluable narcotic called "morphia," and also small quantities of other powerful poisons,

THE WILD POPPY.

at quires a good deal of patience and several re- Nearings of the inside of the pipe before the of the drug. These consist in the productia smoker begms to experience the pleasant effesta of a sense of perfect contentment and indiffer ense to all trouble and care, whilst the im agination gives a rose-colour, or an even more airing aspent, to all that one sea or thinks. of nutil a gentle aleep oloses the scene.

2

A LOVELY RECEPTION DRESS- Tomato red, for instance, was seen in a velvet reception-dress, with light embroideries in the dull gold that is so much in request this season for handsome gowns. Gold, too, was the trim ming of a black matin charmsouse Chantilly, out Directoire fashion, and closely moulded to the figure. Meant for evening wear, the bodice

When the steam reconstraction of the Navy had to be undertaken, about 55 yours ago, and The Chinese, having obtained the seeds,

was rapidly followed by the use of our as a cultivated the opinm-poppy, and made opium

protection against attack by explosive sholls, it before the prepared article was imported in any

became impossible any longer to pretend that great quantity from India. There is, course,

naval officers, untrained as naval architects, The pale-purple poppy of the Mediterranean not as to the injury which is done to

could undertako the responsible work of design- (Papaver setigerum) was onltivated hundreds population by the habitual use of opium, At

ing British warships. Fortunately trained mon even thousands of years ago, in the South af i the same time, there is no one who knows was made with a vieux rose satin bolt, wide and pupils, who had beon vonpullad to wait 20 years wero available in the persons of Di Taman's old Europe and on the Mediterranean shores of anything about medicine and the use of high, softly veiled with black, and drawn their opportunity came, Ontside the Afrion-net for opium, but for the oil which can with reverence and even affection. Forty llet and black knotted together. The sleeves, tainel by other trained naval architects. Sir drag who does not speak of opium through gold embroideries, and ending in gold Admiralty servich conspicions success was nt- be expressed from the seed, "poppy-soed oil." The dil is free from; narcotic properties. The g physicians of London were present, it entirely covering the arms, anul, vory closely william' drew attention to the affect prodnoud

years ago, at dinner-party whore the lead purple poppy is still cultivated for that oil in was suggested that they should ench write down with touches old rose

fitting, were in black not and gold tisson, France, and poppy-seed oil is an article of com-in order of merit the ton drugs to which they beautiful gold embroidery, with motives of naval, architecture, at which large numbers The yoke was i on modern building by evening classes in merce used as food, both in the pure state and for adultorating other oils. The earliest cultive./attached the greatest valne. I heard from one black Free, all carried high in the nook, of artisan's have been taught. For many.

who was present that they all put opium in the tonna to match accompanied this gown, years these classes have tion of this poppy is even as romote in Europe as

existed in tho 7,000 vents, for we find that the Swiss first place, and that meronry, indide of potassium, evidently intended for wearing with it at the dockyard towns and centres of shipbuild- lako dweliers of the Stone Age cultivated it, ond and ipecachanau followed is that order in the theatre. Nothing could be better ona te ing. They have given useful instruction to that the variety they obtained was nearer to the medical spent is ons thing; ita deadly effect on The favourite bugles were seen in an original operations of the shipyard, an from amongst

majority of the lists. The value of opium as a

enhance the fairness of the Crown Princess draughtsmon and men engagel, in the practical wild Papaver setigerum than to the modern those who have become victims to its daily as fashion on an evening gown in black mar

thase, by process of selection, no small number Papaver somniferum. How and opim-poppy,

is another. The origin of the medical use of quisette with a pointed tanic outlined with of men have been found who wers capable of opium can be traced to Egypt in Fliny's time, fringes of vivid green bugles. Similar fringes receiving higher training, and rising to positions but beyond that nothing is known.

formed a berthe, and fell over the arms over long industry. In later yours municipal technical of primary importatooin the private shipbuilding aleeves of dream-coloured laco riolily embroi dered in black jot. Green, too, in a lovely shade schools in our great seaports have given a home of emerald, was the colour of a teagown in to those classes, and at the present time they softest orape-de-chine, embroidered all over in are flourishing more than ever. In this gold beads, and forming a graceful kind of loose department of technical education ho United drapery over a tight undergown in white chiffon Kingdom has a distinct advantage over any The artistic contrast between the green and the other maritime canter, and it has had a white was emphasised by a narrow line of black marked effect upon the moro general adoption velvet, and an Bisvir edition of a black tulle of scientific methods in shipbuilding during the

last 30 years. ruche.edging the green.

when it first was recognised that the narcotic substance “onium" could be prepared from the juice exuling from the cut capsule is not exactly known, but it is probable that it was not until the early Middle Ages that the porry wa cultivated for the habitual nse of opium as Ja marcotic indulgence, and that its earlier cultivation was, as to some extent is the case at the prosent day, for the sake of: the all contained in the sand, its ne is medicine requiring, but a very small supply, The ancient Greeks were well atquainted with the cultivated poppy Homer mentions it, and at a much later period Theophrastus and Dies corides do so. Thor call itmekon," and were aware of the somniferous properties of the say. Dioscerides, whose wonderful book on plants dates from the first century of our era, speaks of the drug derived from the sap by the nams opos," and it is from that word that the dame "opiam" has come. The Romans-cultivated the poppy before the repablic and mixed ita seeds with their flour in making bread. The story of King Tarapin taking the governor of a rebellious province into a poppy-field, lepping off the heads of the taller popples with his stick, and then turning to vibor, without a word, but with a look which aid That is the way to govern is evidence the very early cultivation of the poppy hy 2 thủ Romans. Hebrew writings do not mention the opium poppy, though it seems to be certain that it has been cultivated in Asia Minor for at least 3,000 years. There is no evidence that the plant was cultivated in more ancient time in Egypt, although in Pliny's time the Egyptians used the juice of the poppy medicinally. In the Middle Ages it was, and in our own day it is, one of the chief objects of emitiration in that country, especially for manufacture of opinn.

THE CULTIVATED POPPY.

GERMAN EMPIRE'S DEBT.

COMPARISON WITH BRITAIN.

Prince Buelow, when introducing the imperi finence reform scheme for raising £25,000,000 of annual revenue by now taxos, said in spite of our ancient history we are the youngest among the Great Nations, at least in Western Europe. We came very late into the arena. When, we did appear haste was necessary.|| We were forced by the very fact of our evonómja: progress to seek Colonies, to assure our young world-trade politically, to break with a purely economie European policy, to purene.world. policy, and to provids the new Empire with a fleet strong enough to protest it costs and its av We have had to build this fleet. It was our rapid development which, fazed us to build it so quickly. Is it after all te be wondered at that our economic expanten arising from the growth of our poplation, adil of our productive power should changed, at least BiRang a section of the British people, their one friendlier feel. ing into mistrust, xœ filled this section with a certain anxiety?

and trade.

$100 not regard those antagonisms as a conquerable. Time will heal or allay many of them. I see no near danger of war, What we want is coolness, teur

feurigssness, steadiness (Very trus" Land cheers commotion) calmness, without and within. (Cheers.)

"The real great danger only line in our financial position. We have now, in 1908, a debt of about £200,000,000 and over £100,000,000 is in prospect for the next five years. In the of progress we have lived beyond our INGANA

13

Referring to the example set by the British financial system the Chancellor said: Great Britain, who at the beginning of the last century emerged from the Napoleonic wars with burden of debt amounting to £1,000,000,000, paid off in the course of the last century no lost than £250,000,000. The Boer war again in creased the debt by, roughly. £150,000,000. Great Britain has worked unceasingly at the redemption of this fresh burden.

BONE LOVELY DINNER GOWNS,

A dream of colour was a dinner gown in palest rose-pets! pink satin charmeuse veiled with pearl-gruy chiffon edged with pink velvet. This overdress was a Directoire tunic out up in panels embroidered in plak azid silver, and trimmed with silver luce. The second dinner with creamy chiffon on the bodios and worked gown was in Saxe blue chiffonvelvet relieved

in elaborate embroideries of blue bugles and crystal. For evening woar long Directoire scarves in daphanous taxtaro so as ze ninon, embroidered crepe, chiffon, de, many of thom embroidered with bagles or bordered with a narrow line of fur or ruchus of black chiffor. of cold or white. Many of them were fringed with gold or silk. A poem of a frock was a white safin Directoire, with a bedlice of pink rose. buds alastered closely together. An osening coat was made of Capucine velvet, the shade of the deepest orange-brown-red in a nastur. tiam, embroidered all over in a very beautiful sud hariionious design of binok jet, and finished at the neck with a twist of black tulle, and gold let lace. Fine black for trimmed this very lovely cost the shape of which was indescribably novel and unusual,

HOME CARRIAGE “COATS, Not for the million is such a carriage cost that shown, made entirely of broad tail and trimmed with real silver fox, perhaps the sostliest of furs. The hat to be worn with this was black velvet with a band of silver fox shout the crown and s trimming of dall blue roses,

Loveliest of all however, we Directoire polisse in dull blue velvet, and very richly embroidered in steal and silver in oxidised shades. Brightness in metal sabroideries is entirely out of date. The whole cont was edged with black fox. v

The cultivated variety P. somniferum of the present day differs from the wild P. antigerum, in having the mecheapsule surmounted by ten or twelve ligne (the fresands of the leaves which are united to form the capsule), instead of by eight as in the wild ferm. It seems that the introduction of the poppy from the shores of the Mediterranean into Persia, India, and China is due to Arab traders, and is coincident with the rise of Mahomedaniam, and it is probable that was valued and cultivated from that time on wards, not so much for the make of its seed and oil, as for the narcotic juice which was made in The Chancellor of the Exchequer in by Arabian "confectioners" into a kind of introducing the Badget for 1908 could, justifiable paste, and eaten, as wore other vegetable ex- therefore, point ont with very

that the British Pablis Debt on trasts each sa bhang from hemp-for the pride

Among the wonder that were shown was a sake of the pleasurable effects produced by Sta! March 31, 1909, would be £500,000 less than it sabia cost, price three thousand ralness, and poisonous action on the verrous system. It is at the end of the financial year in 1899 made for the star of the Imperial Opera House, osrtain that the opium poppy does not occur at before the outbreak of the Boer war. Hear, Berlin. Saol was the soft, rich suppleness of all in the wild stats in the Middle and Far East. hear.")

this for that it clings in to the figure as though In North Germany the brewing tax works it had been velvet. Needless to say, the dark, In 1516 opinn was already an article of trails from India to China: The poppy was cultivated, oat at only 1 22 per load of population, as glossy, silky skins were motohod to perfection, and of opium known and frequent in India compared with on. 6d in Great Britain. and the ample out of the skirts was in contrast Ce sonte five centuries before that date. Fro-Here hear," on the Right.) The spirit taxith the perfect fit of the shoulders, outlining bably the cultivation of the plant in Chins was not started until the eighteenth century,

OPIUM BMOKING.

:""

solve this problem in a manner worthy of the sinood that the people's representatives will German people."

IGNORANCE OF THE BIBLE.

A BENSATIONAL FUR COAT.

OUTDOOR GOWNS AND COATS;

A too-novelahla costuma wan" in "pala "beige faced cloth with a fist, smooth pleat down the front of the Directoire skirt, which, like the bodice, is trimmed with buttons covered with beige valvet. A touch of vivid green at the character to this frock neck and a narrow edge of brown far gave Another walking costume had the skirt in dark blue cloth and s three-quarter coat in velvet to match, made with the becoming little shoulder capes that have not now been seen for some time. When they first come in they give a note of povuliar distinction to a coat or costame.

averagen 28. 4. per head here, and in Grest, them with accuracy. Britain Ba. 3d. Finally, the tobacco tax purka out at Is. 3d per head in Germany as against It was the Chinese who hit upon the mode of 63. 22. in Great Britain, Heat, hear.

We shall imperil our safety gay, our peace indulging in opium by smoking it in a pipe.if we do not agree on the aor taxation. There is no record, writtan m pictorial of this Financial preparedness is just na important as practice earlier than 1730, ahent fifty years military readiness The Gevorstient is con- before which date (1630) we find the smoking of tobacco represented on Chinose pottery. Very Boou the Chinese were not pontent to import their opium from India, but large areas were Fat under cultivation with the Indian poppy in China and Manchuris. For a catury Or More the papers of cum from India to Uhina con-

The New York Nation," a journal corres- Chinese tinted and Increased, the nativa production not being sufficient to meet the depanding somewhat to the Athenaam," contains mand. In 1730 and 1796 the Chinese Govern of the Bible among the younger members of

THE REWIST COARS. a letter (October 22nd) dealing with "Ignorance ment desued adicts forbidding the making the well-to-do classes in America.

There seems to be no half-length in the coats As of this season. They are either out away from opium, and in the last centary the efforts of the Chinese Buthorities to prevent the importation writer, "I asked a class of boys from the best inches of basque, or else they are three-quarter substitute Sunday school teacher," ays the the front and with not more than seven or eight of Indian opinm, whether with a view to suppress families in this refined New England com length. An uncommonly pretty costume is in dangerous hahit or to faren the home-munity, where a college has been disseminating green cloth for the skirt, and has a green velvet article, led to war with England. In some for more than a century. What is set with black silk and dull gold braidings and parts of China for instanca, Amoy three fourthe of the population are, or were until meant by the word " prodigal son". One lad ordised gold battens. Some of the three-quar lately, opium smokers. Now it is believed that and sets each day, isn't it? But he was in dal tones of the metal The Directoire

immediately vouchanfed, "It's the run that rise for fur conts are worn with gold or silver belta fur the Chinese Government is genuinely determin

The prodigal son mesna No, tisn't. ing intlulgence in this narcotic, and the opium

down one side, and frequently has the neck growure of India will have to limit their output. Christ." I had occasion to lead a Bible study finished with embroidery to match. The waist in and employ their land and labour for other orope, the mood of greater familiarity with the but not very loose. One of the newest cloth of college students, said to wake them short at the back, and the fronts are straighti

* Доп It is the fact that the eating of opium (for it Scriptures, I ventured as a test question:* is not "amoked thor, does vory little harm in the book of Hezekiah in the Bible without using instored up with buttons and buttonholes. In many of your collage reen think yon mould and coats is a modification of the Directoire with au opening, or apparent opening, down the side, Endis, since it is not used by a large proportion the index? One man inquired how much time front, however, the type is rather sacrificed to of the people nor in excess. Many persons who I'd give them, and when I permitted them five the cause of warmth, in the cross-over lapels, have studied the subject maintain that the minates for the search fifteen out of the forty widely spread injury caused by opium in China make sure that they could accomplish the

ed to put a stop to the dangerdas and enervat. mediately corrected by a wiser boy who said coat has a line of buttons or embroidery

OPIUM EATING, AN

ings for poison them and bannet “resfat

who charg

up

to

Jesus

WINTER DOOTS AND BROKS.

is due to the short time during which it has been fart, and actually set about it. Hoping against All shades of brown are worn with twoed in use there as compared with Endis. It i

hope that this experience was exceptional, I costumes, and, in fact, with short skirts of Lek that population efter few centuries carried the same question to Boston for any colour save black. High heels scom to becomes immune to each poisonous but attracks later, where I had occasion to conduct a be worn mors with short skirts than with tive indulgences by the killing out of those who Bible class of Harvard and Technology men. long ones. In fact, the shorter the skirt, the cannot resist orces-nd the suggestion is. In that class, numbering thirteen, every man that the simplest way

was sure he cookbachieve, this impossibility.

“It was in still another college community demand freely where I was res ding that an allusion was made stuck with them in a philosophy, recitation to a sentiment to be tectionsway of found in Corinthians. What is Corinthians eradicatiile nu evil tenildary may perhaps was the serious question asked by ons student be the only way and hereafter when the pro- after class, I always supposed it was one form dustion by careful and restrzeted breeding of of architecture"? sound gut healthy pópo tion becomes recognised webbing part of the duty of the makers and seministen före of the law in civilised state, it

minge und die and

in, however, "low

higher the heels, and the effect is often more peculiar than beautiful. The gait is

crippled and say trans of charm or "gracefules neces marily disappears when the figure is bent forward with the infirmity of age. The mischief that results to the knees is serious enough, but worse remains behind. Displacement of internal organs is no trifle. Already there are coloured shoes to match green, blue, lor purple costumas, The query may be raised, myn London a fashion that will be developed immensely next contemporary whether, after all, the young ason. We shall and shoes in almost every people of the middle class at homere better shades of colour pale or dark, possibility that informed concerning the great wall of nglish has become Iseh owing to new discovery in the málofled "thin bliste Ameriona mina, Pe art of dyeing—X and Zin the Mobo:

manner

Thirty years ago, the drawing offices of the private shipyards of this country enged in the construction of cargo steamer which may be called the staple industry of British ship.

condnoted in a building were absolutely different from that which now prevails. It was within the truth to say that, at the present timp. clentile skill and ingsunity despised tremp steamer. or pare cargo-carrying were being displayed in the design of the much vessel, no less than in the designs of the swiftest and largest passenger stoomers and of the most

Signs of powerful warships.

increasing recognition of the value of them evening classes were to be found in the targe number of scholarships, exhibition, and studentshine which have been founded... in recent years by the generosity of public bodies Young men whose frst or private individuala. training was received in there classes were now actively engaged throughout the shipyards of the country, doing good service, and azuisting to maintain our aupremacy in shipbuilding. In order to maintain that universally desirel result, the best brains of the country must be utilised, and all class of the community must be drawn прод

The edateuporaneous provision of elementury nad advanced instruction, and of mans by which students of naval, architostare can pass from the lowest rang of the ladler to the topmest, were entstanding features of the M last 30 years, wad matters for Ongratulation.

HOW TO BE BEAUTIFUL-Koop your com-

plexion, Mrs. Ellen's Grains Charmante, Lait Charmant and Special Skin Tonio and Poudre Charmant will enable you to do it. Her Specialities for the Skin are the study of a lifetime. A. 5. Watson & Co. Ltd. Sole Agouts.

[262

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MIDY

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GRIMAULT'S

SYRUP

OF HYPO-PHOSPHITE OF LIME

← Preöribed in Eildon for the last

25 MMR de manips iga reputacion kuc,

COLDE DISRASES OF THE Causf. Lases, and Bronchial Tuara.

116-2-6