1961-02-02 — Page 7

THE CHINA MAIL, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 1961.

WOMANSENSE

Barbara Griggs'

PARIS

spring FLOREN fashion tour

MATTERING MORE AND MORE, THE ITALIAN LOOK

AND THIS IS WHY

NOTHER Florence season has ended, and indications so far are that it was a sell-out, The organisers even claim to have turned down last-minute applications from buyers on the grounds that there was no room, and the ante-room of the huge Sala Bianca in the Pitti Palace, formerly devoted to coffee and chat in The interval, had to be pressed into service as well,

Anlong the buyers the British list has lengthened considerably— 45 assorted stores or wholesalers are represented, and on the official list of buyers there are even five names under the word France, including n vory chic Puris store and a famous South of France beachwear de signer.

Does all this mean that in the field of original now a major challenge to Paris? The truth is in fret

fashion centres of affluent West Europe and America

the newest ones (an ap-

today the best ideas ure

proach that has gone far to killing what is precious in houte couture). And the Italans are producing the ideas, something

new

beach, original for the something witty to lounge around the house in.

Extra charm ·

As a fashion centre, Florence

has one great additional charm It is the last resort th the hand- miraculous painst: king

work which was ones the glory of France and her long censed! to exist in England or America.

A jacket skilfully crocheted

hand-

of hundreds

ribbon is u yards of fine silk luxury th th Welfare State has taught us to appreciate.

Something, perhaps, of this fresh, original inspiration may mass-produced Furvive machine-made copies, so what hes 11 to offer us for sarlag and sunimer, 1901?

-

Anything so long as it's not A shirt: Bertoll's pretty aller- native' is a covered up top In fine paisley printed waol, col. Jarless, straight and short-

sleeved,

design Italy is simpler. In the

He silk--they lonked delicious with white skirts.

Barbaric

Modestly recalling that I predicted it, I present on Italian version of the One-Bare-Shoulder dress. But this one; by Glans, has a Sari look to it. It's in very pole grey silk, bordered and belted in gold.

It's a silk summer, as always, from the lightest weight Jap it to abimmering thick raw

Fresh thoughts on jewellery: Luelena, who disiņus Jewellery silk. for Simimetta's collection, sces it this

heavy, summer as gothic, imposing-a far cry from strings of small pearls.

has desimed barbarke She chains of gilt set with grey and water blue ones; heavy Cellfe crossen set with pale stones: gilt necklaces like mediazval tumour in linked chain; single pirate car rings in heavy gold or coral hoops; or multi-strand necklaces of blue green or coral beads. linked by a gint gilt swan.

matching silk bag: you whip off the dress, revealing a chic Hitle bikini and the dress stows away in, the bag.

CHILDREN'S CORNER

Chirpie's Problem

By MAX TRELL

on

"And when you stand on somebody's window sill, or a clothesline, or on a lamp post In the street, and you chirp," Aald Hanid, "and there isn't an- other Bird for miles and miles around, you sound like the most beautiful, the most cheerful, the most musical Bird that ever

-He's Invitad To Live On Top Of Church Streplom

thinks you have to be important STILL can't make up my to move Into a steeple. You

mind," Chirple Sparrow don't have to be important at WAA raying between bread all!" she said to Chlapie. "A ved."

sterple is for everybody!"!

"I

crumbs.

Couldn't speak

Chirplo was so amazed at

He was speaking to Knarf "Even for a church Mouse," and Hanid, the Shadow Children Faid Khart. "Even for a Spar- hearing his friends talking like with the Turned-About Names, row,"

this that he just stood on the who were standing by the win- "And you one important, you

the window sill with dow. The bread crumbs were silly dear," said Hanid. All edge of spread on the outside window the fancy Birds as you call them his mouth half open, unable to sill. They were Chirple's break fly away when the winter say a word.

comics. And you stay here.

Honid disagrees

fast.

"Should I, or shouldn't 1" Chirple said after he had swal- lowed the last and smallest

crumb.

what would

And finally he flew away. Where did he fly to? Knarf and Henld

saw him very plainly, even though ho "And when you're here all didn't look much bigger than alone except "I mean,

for the Pigeons, a plain brown speck, way up- you're very important. Your way, way up on top of the featliers took beautiful on a wet steeple that looked over the and rainy day."

whole town, that looked "And you're the best flier in the housetops and treetops and the whole neighourhood?" said People, with nothing but the Knart.

sky any higher.

you do it you were me?"

Hanld said:

"Arc you sure there's room enough for you?"

of

"Of course, of course, course," Chirpie answered.

He looked sharply up and down the window all). Some-

mes, after you finished your last bread crumb, there was an- other one that you sumchow hadn't rolleed before.

Knarf's opinion "Well," said Kaart, "if I were a Sparrow and a crowd of Pigeons asked me to come and live with them on top of a church steeple, I'd move right in, that's what I'd, do! I bet it would be fun living on top of a storple."

"It's a grond vlew from way up there," Chirple said. "You can pretty nearly see the whole town all the houses, all the | streets, all the People. And

when you look up, there's noth- ¦ing bat sky-mites and miles

and miles of sky.

"It's a wonderful place for a Bird to live. The Pigeons love it. Maybe I will, too."

Pucel has lots of exhausting

Puzzled look original ideas along the same Hanid gave Chirpie a puzzled lince coats that convert Into Book. skirts and so on, but he is still with

can't understand you dovoled to his cat woman, who dear," she said. All

"You say it's webes a dungares top with longa wonderful place. And still you uniapered pants in heavy stretch can't make up your mind. materials even skinny models Why?" manage to leak sizeably in them.!

It's an Orion year en he beach for the first time-both in thick light-weight sweaters of brillant colours, to cope the sort of summers we're getting used to; and in a fabric, one denier Orlon batista as Ane as lawn in anticipation of the sort of summer that has beccoie a nostalgie memory.

new

And, finally, huhl out those Those damask table cloths and old-fashioned white hand towels. with thick long fringes. They're the newest thing to turn straight beach dresses, or after- swim two-pieces, fringes and all.

All shades

Into

New line on colour: On the rober side this kunter-deyp mated rez.18,

An Italian minia likely to affect England in the near fu- ure is for anything ill, any

sparkies, anything thing that that glitters.

What touched this off, prob- ably, was the discovery of Lurex and its possibilities, used Same of his Copaques are by Italian designers with un- Orlon mense verve, for sweaters that made in thick knitted

Inade daffodil yellow over a straight look us though they are nasturtium skiet; hers are in of gold chain mall and cardigans Plums, browns, flimsy silk over long Baring of inely crochaled goid Lurex, ochre yellows, like the blurred trousing some made of chenille braided in gold and mounted on checks of Baldini's pretty silk play-suits, or the heraldic ab- iringes, others are velvet, others fine matched silk.

stracts which have edzed out ille of rich dzmask.

Other golden thoughts: Net flowers this season, .cr colours shopping bags that look as so hotly tropical that they nearly though they've had a gold dip; blind you, and sirred up

each hats and huge natching gardless-yellow with orange, pinks with bench bags made of plaited orange with pink. strips of laminated metal and coral, magenta, with lettuce.

the gold gil: jewellery

What there is no place for in imaginable.

this Italian summer-the quiet pastels that all the English girls will probably be wearing for their Roman holidays.

011

Bhirts have had it. Almost every boutique designer show lag last weekend has produced

The basic den is the same: A about time 100-a wear- able alternative to the dazeling round-necked to you slip but inevitable alik shirt,

over your head that comes to and looks faring keer or mid-thigh My favouri The

long Ccanques designed in staringly stunning with pants or a beautiful oranges and pinks, or straight skirt.

Other pretly blues and greens by Salconetto,

altern: tiver all Galitzine knee-length tunics In an Italin nrme that congeals a young American designer called raw silk; Barentzens' collarless high buttoning jackels in dark Kent Scott.

LADY LUCK

YOUR CHINA MAIL HOROSCOPE

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2

*

AQUARIUS (11) (January help in handling a rather

21-February 19):

member of your

An ex- difiealt ceptionally enjoyable even- ing is in store for you, with the added satisfaction of costing very little,

PISCES (6) February 20- March 20): A joint arrangement ought to be thoroughly discussed be- forehand. and any future points of disagreement thus avoided, ARIES (9) (March 21-April 19): In order to improve" your relationship with your partner, abstain from fault- finding and be ready to dis- cuss all matters on which you are at variance. TAURUS (12) (April 20-May 20) A private worry must not be allowed to upset the quality of your work. You will have plenty of time to sort it out in the evening. GEMINI

(7) (May 21-June 21) Having embarked on a definite course of setlen, you would be woll advised to halt once in a while and study the reaction of those close to you. CANCER (4) (June 22-July unnoticed 21): An error over your signature on a important document may later involve you in an un- hecessary risk.

LEO (3) (July 22-August 31): An unexpected source may furnish you with some Information which will

family. VIRGO (8) (August 22-Sep- tember 221: An overbear- ing attitude towards a rebellious eliild will be much less effective than one of patient reasoning. LIBRÁ (2) September 23- October. 221: A person born under Libra may not always agree with your ideas, but you will generally be able to get along very well.

SCORPIO (5)-(October. 23-

November 21): A person who has not been pulling his weight at work will give you his complete co- operation on application of some subtle persuasion. SAGITTARIUS (10) (Novem-

ber 22-December 21): outstanding problem con- corming an intimate friend ought to be cleared up this week..

An

CAPRICORN (1) (December

23-January 201: Don't dopend too much on the nrrival of some money pro- mised to you by a rather irresponsible person.

YOUR

LUCKY NUMBER: Count the letters. In your first name and add the total

to the number shown in brackets after your sign of the Zodiac. This is your Jucky number for today.

Old favourite

rom!

New thoughts about the Inspiration from Emilio Pucel fabrics, Falling back on an old (whose entire collection was in favourile, it's going to be a linen all shades of pink, from p.io summer ITI Italy-especially blush, to deepest magenta) the when the linen is particularly Stowaway Dress in fluttery silk. thick and coarse, er brilliantly You stroll down the beach m, a printed.

light silk tunic, carrying a hugo

AT HOME

I look in on

the Gimpels'

RIG

treasure

by BARBARA ANNE TAYLOR

This thres-plece by Avagolf, with dark jersey top and frog

with fastenings contrasting the pale jersey of jacket and straight skirt, is one of many easy Chanol-Jika outfita

or wool shown at

Florence.

slik

ת!

(London Express Service).

house

such a cheerful Bird as he al-

Rupert and the Winter Sale-1

Rupert has been sound asleep when something makes him open his eyes and lift his head off the pillow "I wonder what woke me up, he whispera. "It's not get ung up time." Hearing a little sound he slips out of bed and opens the door. Hello, Daddy, what's going on?" he says. "la

over

anything the matter?" "No, nothing wrong." yawns Mr. Bear.. "Bur "Muminy's "dressed, already and is making us an early break fast. Oh, dear, she does this, once a year and I do with shej wouldn't] You'd better get your-l self dressed too, and be ready for; breakfast,"

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

JACOBY on BRIDGE

and you can count 10 tricks

Chirpie hesitated for a minute or two. Then he said:

MAKE a lock at the North and "Well, it's just this. I'm not

Scuth ends only. West sure that a Bird itke me ought opens the jack of hearts against to live In such beautiful your thres ne-trump contrnel place."

Chirple's voice sounded soovided you can establish your sad which was strenge for clubs without your opponents

finding their spade suit. woys was that Knorf, and Hanid immediately reached out and touched him in the kindest and gentlest way, to show him how much they loved him.

No fancy bird Thanks,

Chirple friends," Bald. "I know you both like me a lot. But after all, I'm not a fancy Bird like a Robin, or n Swallow, ur a Bluebird, or a Pigeon. I'm just a plain Spar-

row.

There's no colour in my feathers. I can't sing. I'm not much of a flier.

"I feel sort of funny moving up to the biggest and tallest steeple in town, with all that grand view and everything.

"I ought to be an Eagle, nol a Sparrow."

The second Chirple finished speaking, Hanid said in u stern voice:

"You go right up to that steeple and move in-right this very minute, do you hear me?"

"I'm not important enough," sald Chirpic.

"Listen to him!" Hanid cried, turning to her brother. "He

ת הליחה

KATAYLOR

so that

So you win the heart lead in dummy and plan to drop the cight from your hand, maybe West will think that the small heart played by his part- ner is a come-on. But East hapa.. pens to play the deuce, so your false card won't do any good.

Now, if you go after the

it is very clubs,

Likely that

CARD Sense

The bidding has been:

East

NOITA 474

УАКО +QJ82. *10082

WEST

EAST

AA3053

AKQO'

310074 4874 443

* fi

106 5

784 SOUTH (D)

J102

Q83.

• AKO 4KQJ5

West North

Pais

Pap

JN.T. Pass

Bolli vulnerable

Soutt

Eart

IN.T.

Pars

North

Soulh Weat

1

Pass

1+

Pazz

24

Pass 3+

1+

IN.T. 2.

Pass Pasa

POR Fass You, South, hold: 432 ATG +KJ91054 *

What do you do?

A-Bid five no-irump. You Is tend to go to seven diamonds if your partner shows two kings and to seven no-trump in the sun- likely event that he shows three.

TODAY'S QUESTION Your partner blds six dia- monds to show one king only. What do you do now?

Anwer Tomorrow

Opening lead-♥ J

Cels the

whichever opponent lead will attack in spades.

What can you do about this? You can lead the pde sult

yourself! You play the four of spades from dummy and put in your ten, West will win the trick and is almost surely go- ing to lead another heart.

the Now, you aitzek

clubs and West is in with the acc. Maybe he will make an inspired but spade lead a this point, It is far more likely that ho will lead a third heart,

The Gimpels Kensington home-too large extent it has been designed as a backcloth for their works of art.

ber of the reslalanes and now would live off the floor for It." Their house is centrally: hented an MBE.

The living room has pale grey and Mr Gimpel is quite

It is not surprising that a walls, creamy belge carpets, vehement In his dislike of fire- man who trained as an architect black leather upholstered chairs, places, especially the sprawling: ort. desier

history. who and has spent most of his life and two tweed settees, one green log-fre variety, Anything noticed early in life that Europe as an art dealer should have on the other black and white. The synonymous with ihe word bed plenty of art and America interesting home. Equally, it is only strong colour in a small "easy" is an anarnema to him, had plenty of money.".

not surprising that his home recess palated midnight blue, "A this ruddling round the Nowadays, of course, America should be a treasure house of Mr Glaspel feels that the less fire, really it's like plys in a also tas plenty of art-but the painting, and sculpture.

sophlaticated you are the more piggory,'t he told. IGHT up in the front. linc of controversial principle remains the same.

colour you

"Look at His enthusiastic about any Charles Gimpel likes to divide NO CLASHING topics, and capable of causing ́as much hot

French women," be sold, "you innovators and new materials his time between France end air as beatniks, The Method and The Bomb, is England--he

Simplicity is the keynote of 'never see them wearing too and is quite annoyed that his even managed to the Gimpels home — to much colour, not like the

carpets are made of anything ng modern art. And standing behind the lines are do this during the war-in a way large

exient It has · been English.”.

ancient and unenterprising, aa the dealers, quiet protagonists of the cause, aloof this

which be casually described like designed as a backcloth for tho While I fumbled for a brilliant wool. He would be much more

works of art but

not in a defence of English womanhood, exalted by a, syntholle material. from the bickering, though not, I imagine, from 'GRAND TOUR' precious or de-humanising sort Mr Gimpol qufeldy tumed the

Looking round his beautina und asked me what kind home, with ta werks by Heny the bartering.

of way and although the furni» tables a member of the lure and colour schemes have, of interior designi I liked. I sul Morte. Barbar Hepworth, resistance movement, boen chosen not to clash with I liked the use of rough stone, Jackson Pollock, de Stack, and Charles Gimpel, whom I visited in his Ken-ich

threa was captured sington house, is one of these dealers, and the umes, aventually escaped to, way dominated by them. It is This he dismissed in a word: all these works was his owe per- cp four the paintings, they are in no belcks and wood in interiors: Ben Nicholson, xeu walen bi owner of Gimpel Fils, in South Molton-street, one price was recaptured and did I asked Mr Glmpel what, i

Englimd.

returned to, a very livable home,

Frank mentioned that all of London's most uncompromisingly modern art, dort of stand tour of concen- the necessity case, he would Lloyd Wright's houses relled on "de Stael died young and this galleries.,

(97,tration, (camps ending. : up: in dispune with first, the paintings the use of such natural materials, ta one of the best of the four

"Auscirwite:

or the furnituror

but he treated this remark with paintings he left. 10 is also worths Ari dealing. has been In the footsteps of his famous grand-XY wia when he was, in Eng- "Good gracious," fie exclaimed, scepticism, saying that the ono a lot of money, which I am not Gimpel family for generaticas, father," Joseph Duvoon, who his land that be met his charming the paintings, of course. I'm Wright heura ho had been in fet above considering.” Shape and Mr Glapel Follows in the been described as the greator Canadian wife, Hay, slao u meza- not so dediested to art that I in the rain,

-(London apreis Service). STAM

7

"Precious.

sonal favourite.

He chose the de Stack because