JACOBY BRIDGE
XJWHEN I first started reading W
bridge crticles the four players were designated as A, B, Y and Z. Z was obviously both a lucky and a fine player. He sat at the bottom of the page 1; and always was declarer. partner Y shared in his profits, but was always dummy while pour A and B sat to the left and right and struggled valiantly against Z's good cards and tremendous play.
Sometime or other their pinces
taken
by North, South,
were
East and West.
seat and
South took 2's his good answer to these
inherited
cards and in
rozders who want to see East
WEST AAKJ3
A7
NORTH
1038
◆ K432 49742
AKQJ195
EAST
AQ108752
54
984 03 SOUTH (D) 204
VAKJ732
• QJ105
THE CHINA MAIL, MONDAY, AUGUST 29, 1960.
WOMANSENSE
Underlying theme LADY LUCK-
It's the latest-
is fluid and soft
by PEGGY MASSIN
reach B the thighs,
meshes or beau cachers sweep which
Cardin's funnel shaped Jackets
forward on to
THE underlying theme of every new French
Dress necklines are restrained and skirts are marked with couture collection is fluid in simple cardigan or boat cuts, scalloped bandings, while Jean and soft, and abolishes all with the exception of Important Palou and Nina Rice! show a- rigid inner construction. knitted collars at Dior where symmetrical jackets fastened on Biss cuts, Bared and gored Yves Saint Laurent highlights the "heart side" with big fur horseshoe and turtle neck col- bows or "furbelows" of ribbon, skirts and loose panellars made of wide ribbed knit, replacing classic buttons. treatments reviva
many, or uses fabric which is shirred
The newest coats are Jkewise
nocent of fastenings, and
1930's and are coupled
minic or leopard have bulky, with the hair and hat knitted sleeves. styles and opulent fur trimming which charac- terised that period.
dressmaking techniques to imitate the same effect.
дле
often
in
are
.
dating back to the early Sleeves
knitted at Dior. Fur veals of Worn clutched round the body
Today, the compass points to- wards o
who new woman omerkes as a sophisticated vamp rather than a youthful girl. Basic silhouettes are sim- pic, but the "femme fatale" uses every dazzling fashion trick to achieve her final effect.
She swathes herself in
•
In the style of the 1930' Many
have coats
sutaway temines, liberally bordered with
models are fur. Other CROPPED
reversible, and switch from Sult
from checks or shadow plaids to Jackets cropped boleros to lightly fitted solid tone. Dramatic circular long jackets, worn with Bared capes and contrasting
sleeveles "pencil case" coats are featured kiris. Dlor favours dresses under reed slim jackets at Nina Ricci.
vary
A
narrow
Deliberate a-symmetry
your
CHINA MAIL
horoscope
MONDAY, AUGUST: 29
2
AQUARIUS (January 01- February 19); Be wary of a colleague who may be trying to get the credit for work actually done by you. PISCES (February 20-March 20): Shortage of help must not prompt you to under- take more than your energy permits. Postpone tasks of secondary importance, ARIES (March 21-April 19):** You will have a very good week if you keep on the for some unique op- alert
portunities to advance your poaltion. TAURUS (April 20-May 20):
vivid
imagination is liable to get you
into trouble. Stick to realities. GEMINI (May 21-June 21): Treat yourself to a luxury DR compensation for . . month of unusually hard work.
►
trying to be completely in- dependent of outside help. LEO (July 22-August 21):
You must rely on your own good judgment when it comes to a very personal mattor. VIRGO-
(August
on A
22- September..22): Make a special effort to get your financial affairs sounder basia during the coming month. LIBRA (September 29- October 22): Your original programme for today may be upset by an unexpected Vieiter.
SCORPIO (October 23. November 21); A letter from abroad will relieve your mind of anxiety about a friend from whom you have not heard for a very long time.
furs, silts and drapes her skirts, ONE successful Innovation is cost is much uses Rice CANCER (June 22-July 21): SAGITTARIUS (November
warn
and shows u weakness for
Cardin's coat-dress, with a metre, are in bangles, beaded trimming, false double breasted or side-button- ensembles featuring short street
and long eyelashes
dgarette cd effect, which folds back to length evening dresses Holders, She is the personifica-
reveal half of a deep scooped under matching full length coats. tion of that gay and worldly neckline
underneath. A- heroine, "Aunile Mame,"
symmetry is carried through to Dress silhouettes ripple close the final detall at Cardin by to the body without constricting mannequins
just one long pendant earring.
it. The bosom is ghily in- dicated but not emphasised, under bloused bodicus 'and ob
Who
wear
same
Culotte and trouser skirt lique cuts, Belts drape the fashions
were used to natural waistline without strangling it, and the hemline extent by Gres, De Rauch, and Heim. The latfor couturier has moved gradually down to interpreted the newest version the top of the call at every of this idea with skinny leotard house except Christian Dior, pants glimpsed under street who continues à mild firtation dresses with gothened skirts with knee-c3ps.
made of sheer transparent wool A-symmetry and hemilne gauze. Hostess fashions at Dior interest are two major trends.
and Lanvin continue Zouave Tubular sheaths have wrapt trouser skirts in rich salin or around skirts, side draping, or
layer of sheer flowing panel scarves, Pierre fabrica. The most luxurious Cardin uses slanted cuts und
revlyes the envelope skirt.
HEMLINES
layer
OVET
and 200 years old daganat seaming. Jean Patout costume for "dining at home"
A
BACK-BUTTONING bodice of Irish
crochet
over 200 years, old is teamed with a long skirt of black velvet, in this dress; named "By Candle Light" from the autumn-winter collection of leading Irish couturiere Irene Gilbert,
The cummerbund is of vivid yellow satin. The antiquo lace is part of a collection bought by trene Gilbert.
•
Professionals
know
nervousness
by JEANNE D'ARCY
You're a
you're going to make a report to the club on Book Nigo or you've been chosen to give a short speech on some subject.
nervous wreck, despite the fact that you're wearing a new dress, are carefully made up and know your subject.
Both vulnerable
You're not Alone
South
1V Pasa Pass
West North Eart
3V
It
It's
6♣ Pam Paus
Opening load-❤K
uny
consolation
muscles and banishes that tense
iceling.
2. Relax the shoulders
and
shake hands loosely,
3. If you're in really bad
you're not alone. Even protes. shape, feel a tightening of sionals gut pre-performance stomuch muscles and have that jitlers. It's the way most people I'll-never-make-it panie, take a are. But you can't let jingly- deep breath through the mouth, jangly nerves get the best of you bend over complotely, letting or you're sure to duff your thies your head hang loosely between You have to be calm when your arms, then let the breath
and West play the hand, I just can't go aghinat tradition, South will sit be declarer for at least 10 of my hands out of 20, but the minute comes to step before out gently through your lips.
Over
How
Calls for
Concentration
once in white, as today, I will that audience. let his opponents take over.
to do li? We asked West's two heart bid
who played South's one heart is the way a Elizabeth Allen
in Part of the success of Eliza- player shows a tremendous hand for half of the title role
comedy hit, beth's three-step programme is against an adverse opening bid. Peter Ustinov's When Enst was able to come in "Romanoff and Jullet," It was that it's something you have to with three spades. West had no a big part and Elizabeth's first concentrate problem about going to six.
East had no trouble with the play either South cashed heart and shifted to the queen of tipmonds. East won In dummy: drew trumpa end discardod ail his losing diamonds on the Iony club sit,
Broadway role,
She 'was
Nervous
What on
with bending and breathing, who re-i members to be nervous?
Anodier problem, which con fronted Elizabeth, and which confounds many an armateur, is what to do with your hands.
Was she nervous on opening [night? You bet! Is she it
"My hands are quite long," nervous before a perfomanko? ♥÷CARD Sertaoḥo Not so much any more," said tho sald. "I couldn't talk with Elizabeth, I've discovered that them because it looked awful- jitters are all hands. My singing coach Q-The bidding has been:“, pre-performance ·
North mostly a matter of breathing. used to make me hold paper Weat
Pas When I'm nervous, I got gespy weights in both hands when re- or breathless. Now I've learn hooraing a song. Pretty soon, I ed to control my breating on just cutomatically kept
hands at my sidea."
Boulk
ELSE
1
18
PRAR?
You, Bouth, hold:
MAG327ASSAMINAt keeps me calmor."
What do you do?«.
.f Here's the 'rouline she uses to
A Bid three Blamonde. Tou banish; tenseess certainly minei compata further.
TODAY'S QUESTION
Your partner bids three spades, What do you do now -
Amrwer TomoETUM
my
It's a good tip. Rather than wave hands - about--it' most distracting-beep them at your 1. Take a really deep hipoth sides, or use them to hold notes through the mouth and exhale you may wish to refer to while
way without talking. gently the same Blowing checks out. This note You can speak nicely withani the diaphragmn working, loosens - waving handa.
Lo the
are Saint Laurent's full length black velvet culottes, worn with A white mink middy blouse.
"JET-AGE"
Hemline treatments *muke news
Evening fashions are among everywhere, Dior's con-
the most glamorous in years. troversial long torso silhouette
re- both stylised puis the limelight on low slung There are
COS- out trospections and romantic skirts which flare or pufY
The vamp around the thighs. Lanvin tume adaptations, Castillo Introduces wearable is there in all her glory in new treatments in fuld water slithering crepe sheaths hemmed with fox, sable, or embroidery, drop" skirts constrained at the hemline with a two-inch wide band. Pierre Cardin and Ning. Ricci's jauntily flared hemlines and trumpet shaped skirts are in direct contrast
This is also the "et age" of folded and unpressed hems at fashion, and jet bugle beads, Dlor and Lanviu.
pendants, and tasales, are used Lavish fur hembands of fox, at Balmain, Dior, und Laroche special to trim solid black "merry mink, or sable area Paris signature, particularly in widow" gowns.
dresses, Fluffy, long Late day haired furs are repeated on coat and suit collars, with boas which snuggle round the node and touch the side upped beim of cloche and holmet hats. The smail, neat looking heady- led by the 1930's is very much in fashion again. Bobbed curled with side hairstyles
Three-vegetable Melange
THIS
mixture
You will be more success- ful if you accept assistance offered by others than by
The Paris autumn 1960 look is
languid, slim and supple, as
styles move closer to the body
22-December 21) Give a new iden a fair, chance to develop before dismissing it as unworkable. CAPRICORN
(December 22. January 201: Don't take on an additional responsibility unless you are sure that you can spare the neces time and energy. YOUR BIRTHDAY: If your birthday da this week you will find a symbol of good fortune in a gift of a key cake.
sary
CHILDREN'S CORNER
Looking For McSnooze
-Pixie OSoul Can't Find His Helper Anywhere-
By MAX TRELL "McSNOOZE" the voice was "McSnooze--where are
calling
you?"
Knart and Hanid the Shad- ow Children with the Turned. About Names, who were sitting on the gross in the park, recos nised the voice at once,
O'Scowl, sald
It's Plxbe Hanid.
Sure enough, at that moment
"We just got here," Knart started to say. Then Hanld interrupted. She shoot a finger in front of the malt Pixie- and said:.
"You're not very polite, Mr O'Scowl!"
his hands on his hips and glared Pixle O'Scowl just stood with
ut Harid,
"I'm not, am 17.So what?
I didn't come here to be polite," "McSnoozet Whare on earth sTS
you!" Fizie O'scowl yelled.
they both spled tiny figure, I came here to find out if you not much taller than a match-either of you have seen hide stick, with a sawed-off acorn or hair of my brother Me- on his head and a dark-green Shooze. Have you?" he asked. from the pins are just the right suit made of leaves,
size and shape. Squeezed O'Scow!
"But," and "Hanid, suniling, "pin-nails Brid pin-tacks are Hania caught Pikie Seowietly small, aren't they?" between her thumb and fore- Anger and gave him a squeeze, "So are wet" stapped Pixie "Ouch! Leggo!" he cried, O'Scowl, glaring at "her again as much to say: "Now must you kicking and squirming
be that stupid?"
Pushing wheelbarrow
Laroche continues its famous all-beaded siren sheaths, ironic- newest ally modelled by his mannequin, Agatha, who is just 15 years old. Uneven hemlines dipping in handkerchief points,
He was coming out from be- and a-symmetrical, one-shoul-
nout six inches dered decolletes are other trade-hind a daly marks of the "femme
from fatale." way
the pot where The new Paris couturier, Bob Keart and Hanid were sitting, Bugnand, shows his dinner Ho was pushing a wheelbarrow dresses with tiny velled cloche about the size of an egg cup hats and foot long cigarette and he was yelling at the top
of his voice:
holders.
"McSnoozel Where on curth Costumes from dliterent coun- tries emerge In Dkn's Spanish are you? McSnoozol
"Say 'Good morning, Knary,' "And, chyway," Pixie O'Scowl Good morning, Hanid. That's gold, suddenly, reminding him- the proper thing to do when sci "I don't care about pins you meet friends of yours. After right now. I went to And Me- that you
can ask us if we've Snoozet He went off somewhere zoen
bide or hair of your to take a sep, and he's left me brother McSnooze, Go ahead, a heavy wheelbarrow to push theme, interpreted for evening McSnooze didn't unswer, say " Hanid gave him an back to O'Cheez Hall on tho
ail embroidereri toreador
for a second or other gentle squceze, After waliing
other side of the park! ball dressca beleros, Inganta
"O'Scowi started to two, Pixie with matching capes, and
Caffed him the daisy toward a push past recall portrait dresses which
the other side of Lall tree on Velasquez and Goya.
the lawn.
Ιπ
of
от
onions, tomatoes and mushrooms makes almost the best of all accompaniments for
grilled cod hake steaks.
For four servings, melt about an ounce of butter in a frying pan. Halve, quarter and then thinly slice 1⁄2 lb. Spanish onions and add them. Add also 1⁄4 pint boiling water, cover and simmer until it evaporates and the onlons begin to brown. Now add 1⁄2 lb allced skinned toma toos and 1⁄4 lb.,^quar- tered mushrooms. Toes the vegetables about until the mushrooms are cooked and the -mixture is just mibist.. Season with pepper and salt to taste.
Serve with' grilled fish, together with,
bölled small new pota“, foes turned in butter and sprinkled with chopped parsley.
RENAISSANCE
Just then he notleed Knarf and Honid. He sot the wheel- barrow down-it seemed to be loaded with bent pins and waked right up to them. "Pardon me," he said.
Didn't recognise him
Castillo of Lanvin takes an Italion Renaissance theme, adapted in swollen "tear drop" skirts beneath snug, long waisted. corselet bodicor.
Crahey
of Nina Ricci brings in old tusla with "Grand Duchess" brocaded "Oh, it's you!" he exclaimed cocistall suite trimmed with the next second, didn't rec- ognise you. How long have you "Boverine" dresses. sable, and Fabulously rich materials, which been sitting here?"
Rupert and the Gomnies-27
When the corda sem off his (wrists Rupert glancer ingi, but the patch of graka han' allot up to the (7 top, and he can ase no sign of the 'place where, he entered," Come adi: come on," ways one of his captora, leading,' blow- away's and knocking at a tough little door.
Next minute ha la ushered into an underground cava atranged like a sort of office. Although several gnomine are standing around, Rupert's gaze is immediately fixed on one who seemsa mors įmiportant than, the, others, and be startu 'forward in excitement," CALL „MIGHTS, MASURYKO
"Good morning, Kharf. Good morning, Harid!" Pixle O'Scowi grumblod. "Now lemme gol!"
"McSnoozel
Where are you? Wake up! Come over here|" What's the trouble?
And it was Hanid who found Hanid let him go. She smiled. fast asleep, curled up on top Pixie McSnooze. There he was, "All right," she said, you of the daisy, not six inches wanted to know how long we away from where they were all had been ttting here,
and pitting Knart told you that we had just
י
1
got here. Now what's the trouble? She tipped the daisy over and Perhaps wo con help you, Pixie he fell right out. O'Scowl, dear."
"I'm awakel Look at mei My Pixle O'Scow now explained eye are wide open! What do that he and MeSnooze had set you want, me to do, O'Scowl? I out about an hour......aɔ with was just waiting for you to their wheelbarrow to look for come along—yes, dir, I was on pina in the streets and pave- top of that "dalay waiting for ments just ourivide the park, you to come along!" McSnooze They did this once a month. Bald.
you need pind?" Knart interrupted to anks Pixle
Why do
O'Scowl,
Sarcastic voice
to
"Waiting for me to coma "To build with," replied Pixie along waiting for me O'Scowl.
come along!"""suid Pixle O'Scowl "Pine? To build with?" Ksert for me with your
in a sarcastic voice. "Waiting asked in a puzzled voice. "What that's how you were waiting!
eyes shut, can you build with plan?!
It was Pixie O'Bawi'stum fan't as sloopy as you are. "Its a good thing everybody to sound puzzled when he said, otherwise I'd be doing all the "You mean you don't know?"
3 Nalls and tacka
Then he went on to explain
"worki", "Now” ̈ get behind that wheelbarrow and push!" ha commanded.
And that, as Knarf and Hanid that if you cut a pin into all now with a smile, wes what both they plovod 'you have beautiful little of them were doing, as halls and facku,
moved the wheelbarrow full of
Варроне учить want to build old pina nerose the lawn towart a chair or a table or a pantry O'Cheer Hall in the roots of the of put some shelves up for Old Oak ori" the far side of the
books? The hail you made pitk.
F
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