THE CHINA MAIL WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 1960,
WOMANSENSE
| Fashion News Focus by Barbara Griggs
Why scorn
IT'S THE
STYLE
the English beauty firms...?
SOON
fashion
goes into autumn: the 11 members of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers present this week the winter collections over which they have toiled, doubted and anguished for the last month or so.
And next week Paris in turn unveils the shrouded mysteries of her couture collections for journalistic acclaim or criticism.
What startling new line, what skirt-length, what shocks or what delights Paris and London have in store for us, the wise refrain from surmising,
Already, however, certain trends are clear, certain colours EXCCT destined for particular attention, certain fabrics stand out in the crowd,
And us a curtain-raiser, the Associate Members of the Incorporated Society are put- ting on their own traditional pre-collection show tomorTOW.
'The best'
THE Incorporated
Society
proper the association of
the couturiers-was
during the war.
formed
The idea of eleeting a group of associate members is only three years old. It was con- ceived
to originally both strengthen the hand of the Society and to enhance the pre- stige of the craftsmen and designers who worked in par- ticularly close partnership with the couturiers.
Among these associate members are milliners, a stock- ing firm, a wool house, a sweater firm, a hairdresser, a furrier, a jeweller, even a cleaner.
Each is elected, theoretically, as "the best in their line" and on the whole the idea is happy
one, giving always
&
the list is by no means an ex-
haustive one.
Missing
FOR
AUTUMN
English autumn: Vidal Sassoon's short sculptured hairstyle, brought forward on the head, flicking
• insouciantly over the the ears, crisply short
at the back. Pringle's gloriously warm sporty sweater in thick honey-coloured camel-hair-Harrods will be stocking it in September, Michael Gosschalk's flimsy gold leaf-brooch,
PICTURE BY JOHN COL
ין
CHILDREN'S CORNER
Through The Mirror
--Teddy And I Make Is But Hanid Docni-
By MAX TRELL
" AND 90," said Hamil, as she shut the book, "that'e the story of Alice Through the Looking Glass."
Hanid looked at Teddy, the Stuffed Bear, and at Hiawatha, the Small-Sized Wooden Indian. "Well, how did you like it?” she asked
Hiawatha made a grunting sound in his throat.
"That
means he liked it,"
Teddy explained.
Then why doesn't he so?" asked Hanid.
sy
"Hiawatha never says anky- thing when you can under- stand him just as well if he grunts," said Teddy.
"Oh, all right," said Hamid, "But words are meant to be used.
"How about you, Theodore? Did you enjoy the story about Alice Through the Looking Glass?"
"Ok
Wants same thing
yes!" said "And I'd like to do what Alice did.”
Teddy.
"You mean, go through
电
looking glass?" asked Hanid. "But you can't, you know"
"Can't I?" asked Teddy. "She did it. Why can't I?".
"Because because - well, sald
you can't, that's why," THE MOST IMPORTANT COLOUR-IT'S BROWN
Winter cover-up-from a millimer who doesn't stay awake nights worrying about the hairdresser: Simone Mieman's high-crowned extinguisher hat in winter-white belt. thinly bound and trimmed in ebony brown.
rings and brooches, made in shingled down at the back, twisted gold wire and using tiny flattened, out slightly from the stones, combine turquoise and bulging beehive line to a square, sapphire set in gold; or show it on-top looks that is faintly off on its own, set in fine gold. Extwardian,
Since basic outline and shape Typical Vidal touch: the this autumn, however much they flipped question-mark curl over may alter are likely to zelain one caz. the extreme, rather taxing sim- plicity which exalts the tailer at
varied.
Pushed back
stone shapes and made up into magnificent brooches and ear- rings.
--(London Express Service).
LADY LUCK
your
the expense of the dressmaker, WHILE hair gets flatter and Surfaces by contrast are richly W
shorter, hats are likely to
hattier, Simone Mirman's Dumas & Maury have pro- get dured one fabric with a close principal line for autumn is glossy sheen like the back of a height pushed to the back of surfacing seal. They contrast the head: a prettier develop AQUARIUS
of last year's tricky these in suit and dress weights, ment using the same colour in a matt chessmen hats, and superb flat- crepe where the coat weight is try to a profile. shiny smooth.
Cashmere
Or she likes deep-brimmed, high-crowned hats-like the mushroom-coloured felt in the picture--which can be pulled ND Pringle, who couldn't end punched and worn every A abandon cashmere if they which way, while for evening wanted to, have product a she has produced nonsense hats circlets of feathers, sweater with a wonderful tex- that are
their scord' marabou, even vine-leaves, tied ture 10 it us
8 velvet brown, the only furrier in the favorite. Made of 10 per at the back with group, Calman Links, are cent
honey coloured ribbon. choosing light honey-coloured camel. It has a delicious wiry For Tuesday's show, Mme
Vernier has designed a group furs for winter; starting with an softness to it,
Offsetting
this splurge
pure
and
needed encouragement to almost-white mink, and bleach- In Paris last week hairdressers of delidously pretty hats in deserving designers, although ing every other fur they can lay and milliners met in secret con- furs and feathers, worn high their hands on, beaver, pony clave to try and work out some and covering the hair com- three favourite Ebony skin, sealskin, lamb,
sort of compromise between pletely; her brown turns up here the shape
colours are black, brown of an old favourite rescued from their conflicting crafts.
London has already gone a white,
With all is richness, the the dowds: squirrel.
handsome halfway to meet the
sentencing the autumn picture is indeed a And still thinking brown is milliners by
sembre One: even Beriel are jeweller Michael Gosschalk, beehive. whose favourite stone this sea- Vidal Sassoon, like other Lon- plunging their corsetry reck- SOT is brown's prettiest com- dan hairdressers, is wielding the lessly in the black dye vat, and sdssors with frenzy. His autumn Paris House haye returned to the panion: turquoise.
His delicate near-Victorian Une shown off by the girl in 19th century to rediscover jet picture, is ruthlessly Jewellery, worked into carved designs for bracelets, ear-clips, this
most
fabric and
HE names of two of Britain's -outstanding designers, Miki Sekers Ascher, are both sadly lacking from the list of the happy few, and London is fortunate in possessing many more than one top-ranking creative hairdresser, although only one figures among the list of associate members,
Another striking omission is that of a native beauty firm (an omission the
would French certainly not tolerate in Paris). Since English skins are admit-
FASHION FOCUS
TATS shaped like old-fashioned dish-covers and
Hot like and
tedly the world's finest, it circus horaes stole some of the limelight when would be a gracious gesture on Michael, one of Britain's top 11 couturiers, showed his the part of the society to acknowledge the fact by elect autumn collection here re-
ing
British beauty arm to cently.
associate membership.
However, the roster is still a
The startling hats were the
highly exciting one. Here then, work of Graham Smith, a de- is my preview of their own consigner still in his early twenties tribution to the autuma seene, who used to work for Lanvin- a contribution, paradoxically, Castillo in Paris. which is certain
to make far
London
JACOBY BRIDGE
NORTH'S two-spade call was The domed, dish-cover shape.
a cue bid. South VELA more impact on your wardrobe wide and deep and balanced at tempted to pass anyway, but the work of eyebrow level, came in various decided to take his medicine like one fabrics including white mink. a man and bid three hearts. Elx, When North jumped to things really looked bad, but when the dummy hit the table
B
and mine than
For members
proper..
herself choosing womin Michael suit there will be ten thousand buying stockings, gloves, shoes, sweaters designed by associate members.
A splurge
ALREADY it is clear that
Vivid
The horse-plume hats, in vivid South saw that he had an ex- colours for evening, rose about cellent chance to make hla con-"
a foot above the head-band to tract. All that was necessary which they were anchored-and was careful play. brushed the chandellers in the
South won the first trick with
showroom as the models walked.
Norman Hartnell, Queen the ace of spades and promptly
BROWN is likely to be the Elizabeth's dressmaker and the ruffed a low club with the six of
most important colour
English fashion
scene
autumn and winter,
on the this
Dumes & Maury, designers of ebony woollen clothes, put brown rich coffee-bean--at
the top of their list
Edward Rayne chooses the iame deep brown in grainy calves, or crocodile, for his streamlined shoes.
Or Aristoc's two new stocking com, one is a fine deep brown called Bourbon made to tone with the 'deep' ebony colours. }
30
man who made
Princess trumps. Then he led the deuce Margaret's wedding dreas,of trumps and was delighted to
recently, showed
did catch West's king, Michael Sherard, Mattli, and Michael.
AA
NORTH
WEST
K
AQJ107 ◆K 4AKJ963 EAST KQJ1087 46%
543
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52
+:10874
40,108 7:4 SOUTH (D)
495432 9862 +6632
* None Both vulnerable.
West North East 14 24 Разм
Pis:
South
-Pasi
♥CARD Sense4+|
3
- PASE. G❤ Pass
Past
Swath West 2+ Pa
Pass
For the first time Hartnell opened his collection with Q-The bidding has been:
Fast North budget-priced multa sad costs. These will cost about 250.1 W sterling instead of the usual | 2 ❤ £70 to £50 staring price at 2 N.T. this house,
PASE Pass You, South, hold: 46 VK35 #AQ8785 4xQ87
What do you
- του δο HOW! AmBid four hearts. Your part
Michael's dresses lett the waist unconstructed and several And Marlin & Bolton whese featured the low-waisted look tretia dengan Jeathers are word, sooner or with easy front, fulness. ister by almost every feminineThieleremourred foot the country, have pro- black, marmalade and brown es duced a range of delicious rich his star colours for autumn. deep browns as their grincipal The trend to easier skirts
Opening Tendė K
CHINA MAIL
horoscope
WEDNESDAY, JULY 27
(January 21. agree- February 19); An ment you made must scrupulously adhered even though it involves much more work than you anticipated.
be
to,
PISCES (February 20-March 20): Even though you may disagree with a superior's opinion, don't forget how much influence he has over your career, ARIES (March 21-April 19): If you have made a blun- der effecting other people's work, you should acknow
to. ledge your obligation put matters right, TAURUS (April 20-May 20): |
Follow your impulse to get friend touch with a whom you have not seen for a long time, and try to close the former renew relationship.
in
GEMINI (May 21-June 21): You will meet & widely travelled person and spend
a pleasant time comparing notes on places you have visited.
BC-
CANCER (June 22-July 21): A child with an enquiring mind ought to be given every opportunity to quire wide knowledge. LEO (July 22-August 21): Don't believe a disquieting report about a member of your family until you have
it ascertained that. 18 based on fact.
Hanid
Here Henid WBS surprised to see Hiawatha pointing to the large mirror.
"What does he mean, Teddy?" Hanid asked, frowning. "I do wish he'd talic like everyone else instead of pointing, and grunting like a Pig."
"Hiawatha thinks you ought to try to go through that look- ing glass hanging on the wall." "But It's silly," replied Kanid. She shook her head. "I won't do it-bol"
Kiawatha grunted.
"He says, try," said Teddy.
"But I'll only bump my head," said Hanid,
"But just try," pleaded Ted dy. "If you get through, to the other side of the looking glass, Hiawatha and I will go through, too."
"Then why don't you two try," said Hanid, "and I'll fol low you if you get through!"
Teddy looked at Hiawatha. "Do you want to, Hiawatha?" he asked.
Hiawatha nodded, smiled, grunted and walked over to the mirror.
"He wants to, all right," sald Teddy.
And then a remarkable thing happened.
5-27
Hanld was amazed to
see them waving at her.
cided to go back behind the Perhaps it and something to bookcase or not but what hap- do with the fact that Mr Mer pened next was that Hanid lin. the Magnificent Magician, bumped her head against the happened to see Teddy and looking glass! Hiawatha walking straight toward the looking glass.
"Ouch!" she screamed
"I told you I couldn't go At any rate, they went right through the looking glass like through it!
Allee did," said Harid later, as
To her amazement, Hanid she tenderly felt the bump on
to her from her forehead. saw them waving the other side of the looking glass!
She walked straight at the mirror,
"We did it!" said Teddy.
And Hiawatha nodded, and
smiled, and grunted, and smiled, and nodded.
I don't know whether it was because Mr Merlin, the Mag- nificent Magician, suddenly de- that ever lived!
He was the most unspeaking Wooden Indian Small-Sized
►
Rupert and the Squire-45
In the morning as Rupert picks up the letters off the mat he hears another knock and there, outside, stands the Squire looking fresh Oo, i am glad to and smart.
Art see you!" cries Rupert. you all right? Did you have a terrible fight? Were those men
Whiteaways
.'
the..."
"Here, one question at a time" smiles the Squire.
yes, those two men were the
ones we wanted. They had lots of other stolen things in the hut, but they were so scared when we grabbed them in the dark that they didn't fight at all1" ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Sale
HONG KONGS
BIGGEST BARGAIN EVENT-
Extra
SPECIAL
LIGHTWEIGHT WOOLLEN
VIRGO (August). 22 DRESS FABRICS
September 22): If you
to-
cannot afford to take a chance of losing your job, you must adopt a more responsible attitude ward your duties. LIBRA
(September 23. October 22): You should take advantage of an op- portunity to get on friend- lier terms with a colleague in order to make your cot- working hours more genial. SCORPIO (October 28-1.
November 21): Be suTO not to overlook a commit- ment made for this month, and thus avoid legal com- plications. SAGITTARIUS
(November 22-December 21): In spite of determined efforts, you will not be able to improve your relationship with a At this point a lot of players
person born at the end of would have indulged in the
October. luxury of a second trump, lead, but that luxury was, one that CAPRICORN (December 22. South could not afford if he January 20) Stop worry- Ing about your lack of wanted to make his contract.
Instead Southeuroedangnergy at the present time. An early holiday will soon restore your usual-rest-for- life. YOUR LUCKY CARD: 11 today is your birthday, your lucky card, no matter That game you may be playing, ought to be the JACK DI CLUB
help fou, but you want to make other low club; returned in dim- "One more strength showing bid to my by trumping a made, trump,
sijow that you do have led another low club with his lent hand.
Instrump: trüfted, enbiler TODAY'S QUESTION space in duman-led out dam trump your partner as bld thrée East's remaining trumps, and diamonds. What do you do now! made the rest of the club muut Of course, he had to lose that king of Llananda at the end.**
colour, starting with dark seen in moet of the current | Marleed-of-, bidding: two how my's last Syd, trumpay to puni
purplish Spanish brown, and Landon shows, was achieved at Working through a glossy red-Matilt with unpressed piece in alah brown called Rufus to the front of mult skhts Chine yellowy chinél-Bebwizji, ku
Mini-Special
55/6 INCHES WIDE
14 LOVELY SHADES
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MILK SHAKE • DARK BROWN, SAXE. BEIGE • DARK GREEN. SWEET APPLE RED DARK PEACOCK
AND BLACK.
DRESS WEIGHT:
USUALLY
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Whiteaways WILL SERVE YOU BEST
A
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